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Zachanadandy

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I mean, if you want lightness, a V8, and 1-ton axles, just daily a 12-yr old honda civic and build a CJ with a small block 350, axles, 37's, and you'll go basically anywhere and weigh next to nothing compared to a Gladiator or Power wagon for about the same total price šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø šŸ˜‚
Ever roadtrip an old CJ? Hard pass. That's what's so amazing about the JLs and JTs, they are the most capable factory Jeeps ever.... and a million times better on road. Even on 39s I can set the adaptive cruise at 85mph and cruise the 1100 miles to Moab comfortably, even in August when its 115⁰ driving across the desert. Get there, air down, and wheel the hardest trails. Air back up and cruise home like it's never been off road. You're not doing any of that in the CJ...aside from the trail part. And even then if it's August you better like night wheeling.
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NO! And there lies the problem … but seeing as I can get a factory full float JL axle for $1600 bucks from the dealer, it may not be a bad idea to have some heavy duty mounts welded on and a truss. After selling the stock axle, it may be a cheap and decent upgrade
Is that the price for just the housing or the full assembly? They usually list two, one is the bare housing and the other is the full assembly. $1,600 for the full assembly would be a steal and worth welding new brackets.
 

Ericshere03

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Is that the price for just the housing or the full assembly? They usually list two, one is the bare housing and the other is the full assembly. $1,600 for the full assembly would be a steal and worth welding new brackets.
That’s just it, the ā€œbare housingā€ has different part numbers for each gear ratio (4.10, 4.56 and 4.88). So I am ā€œASSUMINGā€ it’s a bare axle WITH gears, which would also mean locker …

I’m thinking we just need to add axles, we can add RCV $$$ and a pair of hubs and the rest comes from our axle.

if true, it may be a ā€œcheapishā€ option after we sell our stock stuff …
 

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That’s just it, the ā€œbare housingā€ has different part numbers for each gear ratio (4.10, 4.56 and 4.88). So I am ā€œASSUMINGā€ it’s a bare axle WITH gears, which would also mean locker …

I’m thinking we just need to add axles, we can add RCV $$$ and a pair of hubs and the rest comes from our axle.

if true, it may be a ā€œcheapishā€ option after we sell our stock stuff …
Do you have a link so we can check out what you're referring to?
 

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Our JLUR on 39s just passed 42k miles, the Rubicon, John Bull, pritchett canyon, etc on bone stock xr 44s. If you're trying to Rock bounce you'll need tons on anything over 35s. If you're wheeling like it's a $65k rig with straight sheetmetal and paint you'll be fine. Binding isn't the issue, bouncing and spinning tires that suddenly find traction is, at least in my experience.
"So I hear you hate u-joints..." 😁
 

Zachanadandy

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"So I hear you hate u-joints..." 😁
Definitely broke a bunch in my XJ days from the Dana 30 to the hp44 that replaced it to the rear drive shaft ujoints (axle wrap due to leaf springs and suddenly finding traction). Knock on wood the JL axles have been great but I definitely don't bounce it up obstacles like I did in a $3500 XJ. I do run the same trails and obstacles though.
 

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Zachanadandy

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It also specifies it's the housing only as in the gears/locker/etc are all separate parts as it even states it's #2 the housing only.... no you aren't getting a complete axle for under $2k anywhere. The standard rubicon complete rear axles with 4.10s and non-full float are $2500. Logic would say they'll charge extra for the full float if they even release them as complete crate axles. https://parts.mopargenuineparts.com...NdXVeF55x6mffZOKmTXt0tcv12XrzF_oaAkC_EALw_wcB
 

Ericshere03

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It also specifies it's the housing only as in the gears/locker/etc are all separate parts as it even states it's #2 the housing only.... no you aren't getting a complete axle for under $2k anywhere. The standard rubicon complete rear axles with 4.10s and non-full float are $2500. Logic would say they'll charge extra for the full float if they even release them as complete crate axles. https://parts.mopargenuineparts.com...NdXVeF55x6mffZOKmTXt0tcv12XrzF_oaAkC_EALw_wcB
Then why would they specify a gear ratio if there is no gears ???

also, to your other point. The full float rubicon axle is about $100 bucks more. $2600 for a complete replacement axle. These are service replacements which are a bolt on and go sort of deal.

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par...year=2024&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

id almost be willing to order the housing just to see what we get. Keep it if it has gears/carrier installed.
 

Zachanadandy

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Then why would they specify a gear ratio if there is no gears ???

also, to your other point. The full float rubicon axle is about $100 bucks more. $2600 for a complete replacement axle. These are service replacements which are a bolt on and go sort of deal.

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/par...year=2024&submodel=&extra1=&extra2=&filter=()

id almost be willing to order the housing just to see what we get. Keep it if it has gears/carrier installed.
Are the axle shafts, seals, brakes, etc the same? Even if it had the carrier/locker and gears it could get real expensive to complete it for a marginal strength increase over the stock 44. I'd still argue that the stock axle with chromoly shafts would be stronger than the full float with stock shafts.
 

Ericshere03

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Are the axle shafts, seals, brakes, etc the same? Even if it had the carrier/locker and gears it could get real expensive to complete it for a marginal strength increase over the stock 44. I'd still argue that the stock axle with chromoly shafts would be stronger than the full float with stock shafts.
Stronger in what way? Remember that chromoly shaft can bend the wheel flange, and only a single bearing is holding the jeep/wheel weight… full float the shaft is only turning the hub, and in the hub the wheel/jeep is supported by 2 bearings…

I’d argue for that a chromoly semi float is weaker than a stock full float … but we don’t know…

if the housing is bare, you just need brakes, hubs, diff cover and the semi float shafts. Most of that comes from your stock axle.

I think it’s a great option, even if spending a grand for the RCV shafts. Putting mounts and a truss will make it quite beefy.

remember, we are competing against a $7000 Dana 60 SF or $10000 Dana 60 FF. id bet we’d be in about $3500 bucks, then sell the sticker for 2k and it’s a $1500 upgrade. Just a regear on our stock axle could cost that…

I’ll wait till they announce the 2026 gladiator lineup… I’d have to guess that we eventually get the full float… makes more sense for us to have it anyways.
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