1400 Miles Post - Cam Shaft/Rocker Replacement… CEL & TICK

[bcurtis39]

2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon w/ 84k miles.

About little over 1400 miles ago I replaced the passenger side intake cam shaft & rockers due to a loud tick that developed along with some misfire codes.

After approx. 1400 flawless, tick-less miles I caught a blinking CEL on my way to work today, which resulted the light not staying on & the temporary misfiring feeling to go away. I was going about 75 and around 2500-3500 RPM’s.

Pulled into work and wouldn’t ya know it- the ol’ tick is back again on idle.
Besides the brief moment while driving, there are no side effects besides the sound.

I’m not opposed to replacing the camshaft/rockers again, but I’d hate to continue to replace these & spend the money while out of warranty to just have it continue to happen.
Has anyone found some other things I can look into to see what is causing this? My first set lasted 80k miles, it’s hard to believe this failed coincidentally after 1400 miles.

thanks in advance!

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[arosen1997]

If it failed again in 1400 miles there is another root cause.
Maybe a blocked oil galley or something similar preventing proper lubrication to the area? I'd do some further diagnosis before just parts changing again.

 

[Stan H]

2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon w/ 84k miles.

About little over 1400 miles ago I replaced the passenger side intake cam shaft & rockers due to a loud tick that developed along with some misfire codes.

After approx. 1400 flawless, tick-less miles I caught a blinking CEL on my way to work today, which resulted the light not staying on & the temporary misfiring feeling to go away. I was going about 75 and around 2500-3500 RPM’s.

Pulled into work and wouldn’t ya know it- the ol’ tick is back again on idle.
Besides the brief moment while driving, there are no side effects besides the sound.

I’m not opposed to replacing the camshaft/rockers again, but I’d hate to continue to replace these & spend the money while out of warranty to just have it continue to happen.
Has anyone found some other things I can look into to see what is causing this? My first set lasted 80k miles, it’s hard to believe this failed coincidentally after 1400 miles.

thanks in advance!

Well you only did one . There are 4 on these . What has probably happened is another lobe and rocker on another cam has decided to depart from service. If I was in there I would have done both intakes on each bank and had done with it. The probability of it being the one newly replaced is very low as the cam followers are now of upgraded design and no longer use a bunch of little needle bearings . Starting with the 2021 models the cam follower design was changed and updated and the old cam followers can't even be purchased anymore . Only the updated version.
Which side is the misfire on same bank ? If so .. my guess is exhaust cam same side .

 

[bcurtis39]

Well you only did one . There are 4 on these . What has probably happened is another lobe and rocker on another cam has decided to depart from service. If I was in there I would have done both intakes on each bank and had done with it. The probability of it being the one newly replaced is very low as the cam followers are now of upgraded design and no longer use a bunch of little needle bearings . Starting with the 2021 models the cam follower design was changed and updated and the old cam followers can't even be purchased anymore . Only the updated version.
Which side is the misfire on same bank ? If so .. my guess is exhaust cam same side .

I have rockers to replace for the exhaust cam shaft, but due to difficulty of snagging the exhaust cam shaft itself I decided I would hold off after tearing apart and seeing the condition it was in. Clearly this was the intake causing the previous problem with heavy wear & gloves, whereas the exhaust camshaft didn’t even having an edge to catch a finger nail on.

 

[darkhorse13]

Following as I have a 2020 JTR with 61,000 miles and I'm finally noticing a tick where it's bothering me enough. I don't have the 2500-3000rpm "knock" but I'm also trying to get ahead of anything. My order list includes all right side Intake related replacement.

Did you also replace the right side intake lash adjusters (I call them lifters) as my online research indicates that they are known to collapse? I plan on doing right side intake cam/lash adjusters/rockers + right side exhaust lash adjusters/rockers... not cam unless needed (from your pic, if my exhaust cam looks that shiny with no grooves or worn lobe peaks I'm going to leave it). I figure that while the right side is torn apart I might as well do all of it.

Maybe you have a failed lash adjuster as a "root cause"?

My plan of attack this summer:

Valve Lash Adjuster (Lifter), Intake (Right); $10.25ea	5047883AC (6qty)	$ 61.50
Intake Camshaft Kit, Right	68661147AA	$ 468.46
Lash Adjuster (Lifter) + Rocker Arm Assembly, Exhaust (Right); $8.17ea	68245463AA (6qty)	$ 49.02

 

[bcurtis39]

Following as I have a 2020 JTR with 61,000 miles and I'm finally noticing a tick where it's bothering me enough. I don't have the 2500-3000rpm "knock" but I'm also trying to get ahead of anything. My order list includes all right side Intake related replacement.

Did you also replace the right side intake lash adjusters (I call them lifters) as my online research indicates that they are known to collapse? I plan on doing right side intake cam/lash adjusters/rockers + right side exhaust lash adjusters/rockers... not cam unless needed (from your pic, if my exhaust cam looks that shiny with no grooves or worn lobe peaks I'm going to leave it). I figure that while the right side is torn apart I might as well do all of it.

Maybe you have a failed lash adjuster as a "root cause"?

My plan of attack this summer:

Valve Lash Adjuster (Lifter), Intake (Right); $10.25ea	5047883AC (6qty)	$ 61.50
Intake Camshaft Kit, Right	68661147AA	$ 468.46
Lash Adjuster (Lifter) + Rocker Arm Assembly, Exhaust (Right); $8.17ea	68245463AA (6qty)	$ 49.02

lash adjusters were not swapped.
I work 24 hour shifts as a fireman, and I got on shift this AM and started racking my brain to what I could do when I tear back into that motor. I would assume now after that noise has reappeared I’m going to start trying to source another cam and I’m gonna get the exhaust cam just in case.
Lash Adjusters are going to be on my list, I’m in the process of looking into a higher pressure oil pump, or ways to make sure that oil isn’t having trouble getting in there, and then other ports I can check out after I have it torn open to maybe clean out or see if debris/gunk or anything might have made its way into a spot that’s reducing oil in that cover.

If I can recommend something to ya- if you have a tick, I’d try to source the Cam-Shaft kits from the dealer. If you buy individual parts, it’s MUCH more expensive than getting the kits.
problem with the kits is- they are VERY scarce. I had to call about 15-20 different dealers to find one that had stock and was willing to sell to not their customers.

So might be worth the investment to have them on hand in case you see yourself in the position of needing it.

The kit included Cam Shaft/Rockers for that specific cam shaft, along with gasket.

Also if you’re getting rockers, I’d buy the plug gaskets, and VVL gasket to replace. Mine were about hard as the plastic the intake cover is made of when I replaced them. I had a slight oil “seep” out of the VVL prior to replacing the gasket.

 

[darkhorse13]

started racking my brain to what I could do when I tear back into that motor.

Besides the new lash adjusters on your list, I can think of (2) more call-outs...

#1 Pay close attention to see if your oil galley plugs are loose. They have been known to back out which can cause issues. Maybe another reason for your codes, premature wear, noise???

#2 Don't let you new cams come into contact with anything magnetic near the trigger wheel at the end of the cam. Not saying this is related to the mechanical ticking you are experiencing but it could contribute to codes being thrown... which is just a detrimental to your sanity

 

[bcurtis39]

Besides the new lash adjusters on your list, I can think of (2) more call-outs...

#1 Pay close attention to see if your oil galley plugs are loose. They have been known to back out which can cause issues. Maybe another reason for your codes, premature wear, noise???

#2 Don't let you new cams come into contact with anything magnetic near the trigger wheel at the end of the cam. Not saying this is related to the mechanical ticking you are experiencing but it could contribute to codes being thrown... which is just a detrimental to your sanity

I’ll check out those oil plugs! I didn’t even pay attention to them!

Luckily I have a buddy who mentioned keeping those cams free and clear of magnetic items!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon w/ 84k miles.

About little over 1400 miles ago I replaced the passenger side intake cam shaft & rockers due to a loud tick that developed along with some misfire codes.

After approx. 1400 flawless, tick-less miles I caught a blinking CEL on my way to work today, which resulted the light not staying on & the temporary misfiring feeling to go away. I was going about 75 and around 2500-3500 RPM’s.

Pulled into work and wouldn’t ya know it- the ol’ tick is back again on idle.
Besides the brief moment while driving, there are no side effects besides the sound.

I’m not opposed to replacing the camshaft/rockers again, but I’d hate to continue to replace these & spend the money while out of warranty to just have it continue to happen.
Has anyone found some other things I can look into to see what is causing this? My first set lasted 80k miles, it’s hard to believe this failed coincidentally after 1400 miles.

thanks in advance!

Did you not also replace the lash adjusters?
Since that's what literally controls lash - and oil going to the followers and lobes, I'd always replace those with a cam/follower replacement.

 

[darkhorse13]

Did you not also replace the lash adjusters?
Since that's what literally controls lash - and oil going to the followers and lobes, I'd always replace those with a cam/follower replacement.

He was unable to do so during the first rebuild but it's on his radar (plus other things) during this second round. Forum members to the rescue

 

[RunTheRace]

2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon w/ 84k miles.

About little over 1400 miles ago I replaced the passenger side intake cam shaft & rockers due to a loud tick that developed along with some misfire codes.

After approx. 1400 flawless, tick-less miles I caught a blinking CEL on my way to work today, which resulted the light not staying on & the temporary misfiring feeling to go away. I was going about 75 and around 2500-3500 RPM’s.

Pulled into work and wouldn’t ya know it- the ol’ tick is back again on idle.
Besides the brief moment while driving, there are no side effects besides the sound.

I’m not opposed to replacing the camshaft/rockers again, but I’d hate to continue to replace these & spend the money while out of warranty to just have it continue to happen.
Has anyone found some other things I can look into to see what is causing this? My first set lasted 80k miles, it’s hard to believe this failed coincidentally after 1400 miles.

thanks in advance!

My 2021 JT Mojave is at the dealer awaiting backordered parts. A week prior, the #3 coil had been replaced due to a CEL & #3 misfire code. Troubleshooting confirmed #3 coil was bad, but surprisingly, its replacement wasn't covered under my original 5/60 powertrain warranty. Fortunately, I have an 8/85 Chrysler extended warranty which covered it.

Fast forward 8 days, and I got a flashing CEL along with rough running engine after punching into passing gear while passing another vehicle. Backed off the pedal and the CEL stopped flashing and engine smoothed out. Made another dealer service appointment.

Their service department analyzed the engine and came back with a "bad camshaft" diagnosis, which would be covered under the 5/60 warranty. Part isn't due in until May 7, 2025, so they stuck me in a new ('24) JL Rubicon as a loaner (more squirrelly than my JT, but thankful for the loaner). Word on the street is that the camshafts are junk and a heavy-duty upgrade is recommended. I mentioned that to the service manager and he's "looking into it."

All feedback welcome.

 

[Hootbro]

Troubleshooting confirmed #3 coil was bad, but surprisingly, its replacement wasn't covered under my original 5/60 powertrain warranty.

Yeah, learned about engine electrical/electronic stuff not covered under the powertrain warranty when my RAM 1500 PCM took a dump and had to pay out of pocket for it.

 

[Stan H]

My 2021 JT Mojave is at the dealer awaiting backordered parts. A week prior, the #3 coil had been replaced due to a CEL & #3 misfire code. Troubleshooting confirmed #3 coil was bad, but surprisingly, its replacement wasn't covered under my original 5/60 powertrain warranty. Fortunately, I have an 8/85 Chrysler extended warranty which covered it.

Fast forward 8 days, and I got a flashing CEL along with rough running engine after punching into passing gear while passing another vehicle. Backed off the pedal and the CEL stopped flashing and engine smoothed out. Made another dealer service appointment.

Their service department analyzed the engine and came back with a "bad camshaft" diagnosis, which would be covered under the 5/60 warranty. Part isn't due in until May 7, 2025, so they stuck me in a new ('24) JL Rubicon as a loaner (more squirrelly than my JT, but thankful for the loaner). Word on the street is that the camshafts are junk and a heavy-duty upgrade is recommended. I mentioned that to the service manager and he's "looking into it."

All feedback welcome.

Heavy duty upgrade = No such thing . Only one manufacturer =ChryslerFCA

 

[Free2roam]

So I'm curious what is the root causing all these cams being replaced?
Also glad I don't have a gasser. But curious nonetheless.

 

[Stan H]

So I'm curious what is the root causing all these cams being replaced?
Also glad I don't have a gasser. But curious nonetheless.

I have a theory for which I am afraid to voice . .. ahh screw it .. lol...
Okay oil with bad additive packages and incorrect break in methods.

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