A Queichie!

[Trollboogie]

Mine was the hood switches.

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[OVERLORD]

That's my hope, and the switches are inbound today.

Some good news .............................

IT PASSED INSPECTION, and NO ACTIVE CODES!

Thanks for the help, folks!

 

[Lost1wing]

Now that you have passed your emissions test, do a real IBS reset. Just pulling the connector off doesn't do it. It would be etter to remove the connector and pull the fender ground off for 20-30 minutes. Reconnect the fender ground, reconnect the IBS connector and wait a few cycles before saying it didn't work and for your radio to come back to life fully.

 

[DylanM]

Disconnecting for twenty to thirty minutes isn't necessary to reset the IBS. Unbolt it from the battery post, disconnect the harness connector for twenty seconds, then put it back together.

 

[Lost1wing]

Disconnecting for twenty to thirty minutes isn't necessary to reset the IBS. Unbolt it from the battery post, disconnect the harness connector for twenty seconds, then put it back together.

Disconnecting for twenty to thirty minutes isn't necessary to reset the IBS. Unbolt it from the battery post, disconnect the harness connector for twenty seconds, then put it back together.

I like this! But highlighting the removal of the ibs connector for 20 sec isn't doing much good. Removing the ibs from the battery like it says is a better option. It doesn't make sense to reinstall the ibs on a less than fully charged battery.

Leaving the ibs installed and only disconnecting the ibs connector and batteries is sufficient, giving time for any remaining charge to dissipate.

One fender ground and one connector is far less work than disassembling the main negative post cables and cleaning it all up before reassembling. That takes time too.

 

[DylanM]

I like this! But highlighting the removal of the ibs connector for 20 sec isn't doing much good. Removing the ibs from the battery like it says is a better option. It doesn't make sense to reinstall the ibs on a less than fully charged battery.

Leaving the ibs installed and only disconnecting the ibs connector and batteries is sufficient, giving time for any remaining charge to dissipate.

One fender ground and one connector is far less work than disassembling the main negative post cables and cleaning it all up before reassembling. That takes time too.

Glad you like it, but you obviously need to read my post again. I never said to only disconnect the IBS connector, nor did I highlight anything that says to do only that. I highlighted and it states, "The IBS can be initiated into a learning curve by completely disconnecting the IBS from the battery, and disconnecting harness connector for 20 seconds." Please note the part in bold. It's not saying to remove all battery cables from the battery and disconnect the harness connector, it's telling you to completely disconnect the IBS from the battery, ie, unbolt and remove the IBS from the one battery post and disconnect the IBS harness connector for 20 seconds.

I also stated, " Disconnecting for twenty to thirty minutes isn't necessary to reset the IBS. Unbolt it from the battery post, disconnect the harness connector for twenty seconds, then put it back together. " At no point did I recommend to only disconnect the IBS harness connector, nor did I recommend to completely remove all battery cables from the battery.

Leaving the IBS installed on the battery and instead disconnecting both cables is not what the procedure calls for, nor does it need to be disconnected for twenty to thirty minutes for a reset. Following the factory procedure is perfectly sufficient.

 

[Lost1wing]

Glad you like it, but you obviously need to read my post again. I never said to only disconnect the IBS connector, nor did I highlight anything that says to do only that. I highlighted and it states, "The IBS can be initiated into a learning curve by completely disconnecting the IBS from the battery, and disconnecting harness connector for 20 seconds." Please note the part in bold. It's not saying to remove all battery cables from the battery and disconnect the harness connector, it's telling you to completely disconnect the IBS from the battery, ie, unbolt and remove the IBS from the one battery post and disconnect the IBS harness connector for 20 seconds.

I also stated, " Disconnecting for twenty to thirty minutes isn't necessary to reset the IBS. Unbolt it from the battery post, disconnect the harness connector for twenty seconds, then put it back together. " At no point did I recommend to only disconnect the IBS harness connector, nor did I recommend to completely remove all battery cables from the battery.

Leaving the IBS installed on the battery and instead disconnecting both cables is not what the procedure calls for, nor does it need to be disconnected for twenty to thirty minutes for a reset. Following the factory procedure is perfectly sufficient.

I like that!! Disconnecting the IBS connector and removing it from the battery! Perfect! It does not help much for the computer to learn the SOC from a discharged battery so what is the point? This is a kick the can repair procedure. It even says " enough" and I take that to get by. Let the system discharge, charge the batteries and reconnect. Forget the 20 minutes! By the time you are done charging, it will have been 20 minutes. Can't do that in 20 seconds!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

LOL - make that 12 now - Dylan has blocked me as well.

Here is direct from an FCA training document and applies specifically to Jeeps with the aux battery

 

[OVERLORD]

Thanks guys for the guidance, and sorry this post has created some hard feelings.

Hence, since ESS is such a big issue here, and with JEEPS, I kind of wish there was a definitive post, ONE resource for all the problems.

Especially for us olde farts, who are grumpy, and smell like bad Brussell Sprouts.

The plan for tomorrow, is to begin some wenchin'!

The Overlord passed inspection, so the winter tires are coming off, summer tires are going on.

I picked up a set of Bill Stein shock absorbers.

I have no idea who this guy Bill is, but his shocks are purty, and seem to have good reviews.

The boggle on them seems to be boot North, or South.

Back to the ESS, whilst wenchin', going to disconnect the IBS, as directed, as the above posts suggests.

Gonna put a tickle charger on the battery, although both are gnu.

Change both hood switches, as I don't know which one is for ESS.

Once the wenchin' is Don, the last thing I will assemble is the battery, and wish happy thoughts that the Eye-Dee-Ten-Tee light goes out.

Thanks to all for the help!

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Thanks guys for the guidance, and sorry this post has created some hard feelings.

There's a number of people here who don't understand and can't stand my ADHD personality - so they block me. Not your problem. You caused no problems at all.

You asked questions and that is a good thing.

(frankly, it's their problem, being such weak people they can't handle it LOL, and they just don't get or like "mental differences" in people. Thankfully they don't work in healthcare. My son likens me to Sheldon Cooper.)

 

[Lost1wing]

Thanks guys for the guidance, and sorry this post has created some hard feelings.

Hence, since ESS is such a big issue here, and with JEEPS, I kind of wish there was a definitive post, ONE resource for all the problems.

Especially for us olde farts, who are grumpy, and smell like bad Brussell Sprouts.

The plan for tomorrow, is to begin some wenchin'!

The Overlord passed inspection, so the winter tires are coming off, summer tires are going on.

I picked up a set of Bill Stein shock absorbers.

I have no idea who this guy Bill is, but his shocks are purty, and seem to have good reviews.

The boggle on them seems to be boot North, or South.

Back to the ESS, whilst wenchin', going to disconnect the IBS, as directed, as the above posts suggests.

Gonna put a tickle charger on the battery, although both are gnu.

Change both hood switches, as I don't know which one is for ESS.

Once the wenchin' is Don, the last thing I will assemble is the battery, and wish happy thoughts that the Eye-Dee-Ten-Tee light goes out.

Thanks to all for the help!

Who got blocked?

Darn, we were... never mind.

 

[OVERLORD]

It's no fun when yer olde, grumpy, and smell like bad rutabagas.

I get tired quick.

Planned on an early start yesterday, scratch that, a Widow that I know couldn't get her mower going, so lots of time wasted on that. No end of season maintenance, with the curse of ethanol as a side dish.

Tinkered a bit on the Overlord when I got home in prep for today.

New Bill Stein shocks all around, swap winter rims and tires for summer, and address the eye-dee-ten-tee light.

Running out of gas, maybe just the front axle today.

Right now.

Battery terminals removed, primary battery on the tickle charger.

Once green, will swap the tickle charger over to the disconnected terminals, which I assume will charge the ESS battery?

IBS removed and disconnected.

Hood switches popped, and new ones to go in today.

What's this nasty, smelly, guy missing?

Thanks folks.

Shocks are kind of a pain in the tookus on these, 'specially when yer crawling around on the floor.

Thanks folks!

 

[Camaroboi13]

I commend all of you for posting here. I’m still trying to figure out what the problem was in the first place and Google Translate is not working.

 

[OVERLORD]

Once you go to Gargle for transition help, game over.

ESS light on.

New charged and load tested ESS battery.

New charged, load tested, and bigger 94R primary battery.

Hood switches are sometime the tissue.

ESS light, want to kill it D.E.D.!

 

[OVERLORD]

Too, found a coupla cool sticker overlays, to remember my 2023 trip.

Just call me Saint George!

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