Aux Battery is OK, what else could cause "Start/Stop not Ready, Battery Charging?

[ShadowsPapa]

Separating the IBS by just removing the negative with the IBS from the battery?

take it off the negative cable as well - especially if the aux is still connected.
I go the whole route and disconnect the smaller LIN network connector and lay the thing off to the side connected to nothing at all.

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[badglad]

I had this exact same problem. I had replaced both batteries and had alternator tested. The solution was to separate out the intelligent battery sensor for about 20 minutes to reset it.

Well, my problem seems to be resolved (Start/Stop Not Ready, Battery Charging). I removed both cable clamps from the main battery last night, did not separate the cables.

Charged the main battery for a few hours, it read 12.72V and left cables disconnected all night. In the morning the voltage read 12.52V.

Hooked everything back up and went to work, and guess what, the ESS was working normally.
So, I guess what I did was an Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) reset without knowing it. Anyway, seems OK now and thank you for all the inputs and assistance everyone.

 

[Geoarch]

take it off the negative cable as well - especially if the aux is still connected.
I go the whole route and disconnect the smaller LIN network connector and lay the thing off to the side connected to nothing at all.

LIN Network?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Charged the main battery for a few hours, it read 12.72V and left cables disconnected all night. In the morning the voltage read 12.52V.

That's not good.
IF you left all cables and the IBS off the main battery and it dropped to 12.5 overnight with NOTHING touching either terminal, you have a battery issue.
AGM batteries do not self-discharge that fast.

If you left the IBS connected to either the main battery post, or to the negative cables, you really didn't reset it.

Looks like you have a bad main battery as 12.5 is bad.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

LIN Network?

Local Interconnect Network.
It is a low speed, low priority network in the vehicle that passes information.
It interconnects with CAN and passes digital information.

 

[badglad]

That's not good.
IF you left all cables and the IBS off the main battery and it dropped to 12.5 overnight with NOTHING touching either terminal, you have a battery issue.
AGM batteries do not self-discharge that fast.

If you left the IBS connected to either the main battery post, or to the negative cables, you really didn't reset it.

Looks like you have a bad main battery as 12.5 is bad.

What ever happened to the good ol' days when if you measured 12V on your battery, you were in tall cotton...

 

[Geoarch]

Local Interconnect Network.
It is a low speed, low priority network in the vehicle that passes information.
It interconnects with CAN and passes digital information.

I disconnected the IBS and everything on it for 20+minutes and no change. I'll take it to the dealer and may even be covered by warranty! Thanks.

 

[sharpsicle]

What ever happened to the good ol' days when if you measured 12V on your battery, you were in tall cotton...

It's just not the case. This shows charged voltage, the resting voltage overnight on 100% health would be in the 12.7-12.8v range.

So at 12.5, you've lost some health, but it's still a usable battery. Add to that some drain when it's hooked up, and you're likely down to 12.3 or so real-world. ESS is very sensitive to voltage to protect itself from non-starts, so it might not be happy with it, and disable itself out of caution.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What ever happened to the good ol' days when if you measured 12V on your battery, you were in tall cotton...

It's never been that way! No battery has ever been good at "twelve volts". Just never happened. Only the shade-tree types assumed that because "I heard from Bubba.......... and he knows stuff" types of things.
even a non-AGM battery from the 1970s was fully charged at 12.66 (ROUGHLY) volts - it was called 12.6 because back then your analog meter wouldn't get that picky to the hundredth decimal place.
A battery at 12.0 volts wasn't fully charged, or wasn't healthy.
I can go out now to my wet cell car batteries and read 12.6-12.7 volts on them when fully charged with the surface charge removed.
I could get really down to details and go grab my GM training materials showing charts for batteries of that era (mid-1970s), alternator output specs and so on.

It's just not the case. This shows charged voltage, the resting voltage overnight on 100% health would be in the 12.7-12.8v range.

So at 12.5, you've lost some health, but it's still a usable battery. Add to that some drain when it's hooked up, and you're likely down to 12.3 or so real-world. ESS is very sensitive to voltage to protect itself from non-starts, so it might not be happy with it, and disable itself out of caution.

If he fully charged the battery and it only showed 12.7 volts, there was no surface charge - which right away says - "hmmmmm" to me.
But if it starts at 12.7 then just over-night with NO cable attached at all, both posts totally bare, not even the IBS connected, positive cable off, the whole bit, bare battery and it drops to 12.5 over-night, it's not a good battery. An AGM, for that matter, any L/A battery should hold the charge for those few hours. Even my Eagle battery likely still shows the proper 12.6 volts and that's sitting for a few days.
So going from 12.7 to 12.5 just in a few hours indicates an issue. It's either not actually fully charging due to some problem (charger or battery), or has a problem otherwise.
I'd right away consider that as a bad battery or one on the way out.
No AGM battery should drop like that with zero load on it.

 

[Geoarch]

take it off the negative cable as well - especially if the aux is still connected.
I go the whole route and disconnect the smaller LIN network connector and lay the thing off to the side connected to nothing at all.

I've been talking to Bill about this, but I'll butt in since this involves my 2024 JTR AT now at 310 miles. After disconnecting the battery (ies) when installing the Warn winch, when I reconnected, I got the "the vehicle will stop/ESS not connected" warning. That was at about 272 miles. I had installed a Odyssey 94R as soon as I took delivery, fully charged, and it was fine. Towed it to the dealer, and wonder of wonders the AUX battery was completely dead: Reserve capacity = -8.0; CCA=0; end voltage 0V; load test=fail... The high voltage fuse at the least was bad, and they replace the entire "array", as well as a new fully charged AUX battery. Covered by warranty, but I'm glad it happened at home and not during a field project. I'm sometimes miles from the nearest paved road.

I bring this up because Bill pretty much predicted the problem, other than a faulty new AUX. I'm a trained mechanic (Marine tracked vehicle repair), but electrical problems vex me at times. The dealer, of course, determined it through the on-board computer which I made it easier for him to read by previously installing the Z Automotive dongle!

It's bad enough that the Aux battery issue is continual for many, but a manufacturing defect battery installed at Toledo is the worst.

Bill pretty much nailed it.

 

[Zimbu]

I have a 2023 Gladiator and had no battery problems for almost 2 years and then it wouldn't start . Jumped it off and things looked okay but then the voltage started fluctuating up and down between 12+ and 14+ VDC . Called dealer and took it in and they replace both batteries . Drove home and it kinda looked okay . It sat for a day and after starting it came up to 13.0 and stayed there until i had to slow down for a stop light once i pushed on the brake pedal it went up to 14+ and then back down to 13.0 . I drove it approx 50 miles and stopped and started 3 times all with the same results . Any ideas ?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have a 2023 Gladiator and had no battery problems for almost 2 years and then it wouldn't start . Jumped it off and things looked okay but then the voltage started fluctuating up and down between 12+ and 14+ VDC . Called dealer and took it in and they replace both batteries . Drove home and it kinda looked okay . It sat for a day and after starting it came up to 13.0 and stayed there until i had to slow down for a stop light once i pushed on the brake pedal it went up to 14+ and then back down to 13.0 . I drove it approx 50 miles and stopped and started 3 times all with the same results . Any ideas ?

Yeah - ideas - sounds normal. You can see from 12.6 volts up to 15 volts depending on temperature outside, state of charge of the batteries, your speed, load on the engine, are you coasting down a hill and other things.
You won't see a steady voltage if things are working properly.

 

[Zimbu]

Yeah - ideas - sounds normal. You can see from 12.6 volts up to 15 volts depending on temperature outside, state of charge of the batteries, your speed, load on the engine, are you coasting down a hill and other things.
You won't see a steady voltage if things are working properly.

 

[Zimbu]

But for the 2 years i have owned and driven ( bought new ) it has always been steady 14.1 - 14.2 no matter what speed until it wouldn't start a week ago .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But for the 2 years i have owned and driven ( bought new ) it has always been steady 14.1 - 14.2 no matter what speed until it wouldn't start a week ago .

How often do you drive it and for how long each time?

Mine did that as the batteries aged. Once I recharged each independently with a good AGM charger and reset the IBS - it worked a lot better. But - lack of driving made it start to go back to the old ways.

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