Suspension height 750 lbs gear

[Rubianderson]

If you're loading it up with 750lbs, why try to maintain the rake? The rake exists so the trick sits level when loaded, are you planning to load it significantly more on top of the 750lbs? I think you're into a bit of trial and error territory as I doubt you'll find anyone with the exact setup to determine what you're after. I'd guess that a set of 1.5" lift HD springs from Clayton in the rear would get you really close to what you're after. I'd start there and if you want a little more rake add the appropriate height spacer once you get it set on the HD springs under load. Unless you run dump truck hard springs you will have some decent sag with that kind of weight.

Hey thanks for commenting.
Clayton certainly keeps coming up.
I'm more convinced now that the properly engineered springs and shocks package can ride similar to stock. And is the direction ill have to go.
Goldilocks situation, one too hard one too soft, and one JUST right.
My reason for stock rake.
1- prevents headlights from pointing high, definitly not pointing at the factory set/road legal point when overly squated, keeping it friendly to oncoming traffic and properly washing the road ahead.
I'm not much for rows of extra addon lights.
2- hey i'm old, grew up with cars/trucks with a rake-looks cool. It was actually functional for muscle cars back then, allowing for weight transfer to rear for max trax on those rear wheels, and agin it looked cool : ) And I think we all build our jeeps for functionallity for our intended use, with a bit of an eye towards looking cool, whatever that means to each individual.
THX, Steve.

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[justbig]

I know you have an aversion to air bags, but they do offer a lot of versatility. Tunable pressure to load is the primary. I run a roof top tent and rack with supplies nearly year around and have found my sweet spot for pressure setting. Occasionally pull a trailer with large mower or small tractor and I can adjust the pressure accordingly. I chose a reputable air bag manufacturer and have had zero issues over 20K miles so far. The timbren/sumo spring offerings to me are a glorified bump stop. Semi's run air bags millions of miles because they work. You could also get in touch with Dobinson Suspensions and see what they offer in a heavier rate spring. They are a very reputable brand .

 

[justbig]

I'm running the Clayton Overland 2.5 lift. Diesel HD springs. I'll be in the process of upgrading the shocks here probably this weekend. Total weight on vechicle for my 2000 mile trip was 7450. A little wobbly/top-heavy. But handled it decent. Part of the reason I'm upgrading the shocks.

look into heavier sway bars if you haven't already. Shocks definitely helped me, but the HD sway bar from Whiteline (cheaper than Hellwig) was the ticket. I do recommend adding the sway bar reinforcement brackets like Meatacloak, Evo etc offer.

 

[Free2roam]

look into heavier sway bars if you haven't already. Shocks definitely helped me, but the HD sway bar from Whiteline (cheaper than Hellwig) was the ticket. I do recommend adding the sway bar reinforcement brackets like Meatacloak, Evo etc offer.

I've got the Helwig and the brackets from Metalcloak.

 

[Rubianderson]

If you're loading it up with 750lbs, why try to maintain the rake? The rake exists so the trick sits level when loaded, are you planning to load it significantly more on top of the 750lbs? I think you're into a bit of trial and error territory as I doubt you'll find anyone with the exact......

THX for your comment/ideas. 750 is the expected weight with the topper sitting in my driveway waiting for install, but one/two week total offroad exploration trips and yes I end up w/more weight as I'm a gadget guy and always find more stuff I "have to have". And, I havent uparmored anything yet(not armoring for Utah, but dif skids, lwr ctrl arm skids do come to mind, plus blah, blah, blah). I'm in Fl. and the heavily loaded Glads ive seen go past the first stage level pt to squatting past level. Ive talked with one and he exacerbated the problem by installing a leveling kit(front spacer) in the quest to achieve bigger tire clearance equal to the rear.
I'm not averse to fine-tuning my set-up w/spacer in rear as I dial it in.
THX. Steve

 

[Rubianderson]

look into heavier sway bars if you haven't already. Shocks definitely helped me, but the HD sway bar from Whiteline (cheaper than Hellwig) was the ticket. I do recommend adding the sway bar reinforcement brackets like Meatacloak, Evo etc offer.

Wow, more awesome advice, I hadnt even thought about those. I was hoping/thinking about frt/rear antirocks like i installed in my TJR 20 yrs ago, but hadnt considered the dif situ of a loaded Glad. Man buying the topper was just the first step! I actually thought I wasnt going to be overly modding the Glad compared to my old wrangler. JustEmptyEveryPocket.
THX again. Steve

 

[Rubianderson]

I've got the Helwig and the brackets from Metalcloak.

Cool, so glad I posted for info on this Topic!
THX. Steve

 

[justbig]

My experience is only with the Rubicon packaged Gladiators. The suspension was good until there was something in the bed. It didn't take much to make the rear feel spongy and sway. Unfortunately there isn't a secret sauce. It's trial and error!

 

[Rubianderson]

I know you have an aversion to air bags, but they do offer a lot of versatility. Tunable pressure to load is the primary. I run a roof top tent and rack with supplies nearly year around and have found my sweet spot for pressure setting. Occasionally pull a trailer with large mower or small tractor and I can adjust the pressure accordingly. I chose a reputable air bag manufacturer and have had zero issues over 20K miles so far. The timbren/sumo spring offerings to me are a glorified bump stop. Semi's run air bags millions of miles because they work. You could also get in touch with Dobinson Suspensions and see what they offer in a heavier rate spring. They are a very reputable brand .

You make a good case and I wont just dismiss them anymore. I suppose my aversion comes from modding cars in the 70's w/airlift shocks and those chap hard plastic air lines that would crack and leak leaving me w/no shocks, draggin my rear home. Semi's good example of how far tech has come. Those serve a critical fcn I would assume. I'm wondering whether bags installed in the interior of a coil are as overall, as good as, ones say installed freely mounted between two top/bottom "mount plates/perches"? Can you mention or DM me the airbag brandname that has worked for you? Did you install yourself or have them installed? Thanks for Suspension Co. name.
THX. Steve

 

[justbig]

You make a good case and I wont just dismiss them anymore. I suppose my aversion comes from modding cars in the 70's w/airlift shocks and those chap hard plastic air lines that would crack and leak leaving me w/no shocks, draggin my rear home. Semi's good example of how far tech has come. Those serve a critical fcn I would assume. I'm wondering whether bags installed in the interior of a coil are as overall, as good as, ones say installed freely mounted between two top/bottom "mount plates/perches"? Can you mention or DM me the airbag brandname that has worked for you? Did you install yourself or have them installed? Thanks for Suspension Co. name.
THX. Steve

Airlift. They have Gladiator specific model. There are several tutorials out on YT. Wash your rear axle/springs as well as you can nothing worse than a face full of dirt! I did not use the supplied Tee in for the air line. I wanted to reduce sway as well. I felt that air would travel between the bags freely with the Tee. By installing two Schrader valves, each side is independent. Not sure that accomplished much other than I think its helping. LOL

 

[Rubianderson]

My experience is only with the Rubicon packaged Gladiators. The suspension was good until there was something in the bed. It didn't take much to make the rear fell spongy and sway. Unfortunately there isn't a secret sauce. It's trial and error!

I agree completely! Mine is the stock 24' Rubi package and it handles great. Last week I installed a set of Jl wrangler sport no mileage Takeoffs(225/70/17 REXEN's) so Im not burning up the Factory Falken AT's tread in city/hwy driving. Driving home with the 5 stock Rubi tires/rims(guessing somewhere between 300+ lbs to 400+ lbs ?) and got a feel for weight/handling capabilities, and agree its got some deficiencies, which is what got me thinking about making some Susp improvements to handle my bedtopper/rtt install. I measured height of bed w/tires in the bed, frt of bed, rear of bed Drvr/Psgr sides. and it was perfect level, not squatted. So, I'd say loaded to 3/4 of factory stated capacity it is def going to "light the sky".
I understand there may be some trial and error, but based on the awesome responses in this thread the amount of buying and trying is def going to be reduced. Thanks to all, members/sponsors here at JeepGladiatorForum
THX. Steve

 

[Josh00333]

AEV also offers a 2.5-3" kit set around two different load ratings.

 

[Rubianderson]

Airlift. They have Gladiator specific model. There are several tutorials out on YT. Wash your rear axle/springs as well as you can nothing worse than a face full of dirt! I did not use the supplied Tee in for the air line. I wanted to reduce sway as well. I felt that air would travel between the bags freely with the Tee. By installing two Schrader valves, each side is independent. Not sure that accomplished much other than I think its helping. LOL

So, it sounds like you didnt do a fancy, in cab controlled w/feedback central system? Or am I guessing wrong?
Did you do frt bags too, or no need?
Anything you would do differently if you were setting up say an exact replacement of your truck?
THX. Steve

 

[Rubianderson]

AEV also offers a 2.5-3" kit set around two different load ratings.

THX. Steve

 

[brsnow2585]

Unlifted, my '22 Rubi handled well, unloaded, loaded, overloaded, towing my camper up until about 30k miles when I started to get an occasional hop mostly on the passenger side, but sometimes on the driver side. It seemed to be temperature dependant, ~45 deg or lower. I read a lot of similar experiences, they all seemed to point to the factory steering damper. I did the Mopar lift and upgraded to the matching Fox 2.0 damper, forget which order but I did drive a little while with one or the other, was still a problem, maybe a little less frequent. Pair together was much better, but still got squirrelly at times. Want until the last month, blowing a ujoint and having most of the front axel replaced and the dealer did a killer alignment, it's dialed in. I drove my routine 45mile path right after and barely needed 2 fingers on the steering wheel.

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