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I get the general concept, but can someone dumb it down or cliff note it? I'm just past 40k miles on my '22, been running Lucas fuel additive fairly consistently, really notice a drop when I miss a tank.
The Gen 3 engine is really hard on oil due to heat and pressure. Mopar published a Star Online Publication that said, "Using the oil specified for the GEN 2 engine in the GEN 3, will lead to deposits forming in the turbo charger, leading to reduced performance."

Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel UOA (Oil Analysis) Results Thread {filename}
 

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The Gen 3 engine is really hard on oil due to heat and pressure. Mopar published a Star Online Publication that said, "Using the oil specified for the GEN 2 engine in the GEN 3, will lead to deposits forming in the turbo charger, leading to reduced performance."

Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel UOA (Oil Analysis) Results Thread {filename}
Based on this, I'm wondering if the mule test photos that were provided were from tests that ran CJ-4 oils rather than CK-4 oils since this bulletin says the Gen 2 recommends CJ-4 oils. CJ-4 is an outdated diesel oil spec based on older emissions tech and different engine pressures, whereas CK-4 is more compatible with modern tech, heavy pressures, tight tolerances, etc... It just doesn't make any sense that the Big 3 (Powerstroke, Cummins, and Duramax) that have the same emissions equipment and much higher internal pressures would use CK-4 oils and yet the third gen EcoDiesel is somehow "too hard" on CK-4 oils and requires a Euro spec that isn't specifically formulated for diesel applications.
 
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Based on this, I'm wondering if the mule test photos that were provided were from tests that ran CJ-4 oils rather than CK-4 oils since this bulletin says the Gen 2 recommends CJ-4 oils.
Rotella T6 5W-40 is a CK-4 oil, which meets and exceeds the older CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, and CH-4 API ratings.

It just doesn't make any sense that the Big 3 (Powerstroke, Cummins, and Duramax) that have the same emissions equipment and much higher internal pressures would use CK-4 oils and yet the third gen EcoDiesel is somehow "too hard" on CK-4 oils and requires a Euro spec that isn't specifically formulated for diesel applications.
The Gen 2 EcoDiesel is easy on oil, which is why you can run Rotella T6 for 10,000, 15,000, 20,000 and 25,000 mile intervals. The Gen 3, however, is very different. It shears oil quickly.
 

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Rotella T6 5W-40 is a CK-4 oil, which meets and exceeds the older CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, and CH-4 API ratings.



The Gen 2 EcoDiesel is easy on oil, which is why you can run Rotella T6 for 10,000, 15,000, 20,000 and 25,000 mile intervals. The Gen 3, however, is very different. It shears oil quickly.
Correct. But the OEM recommends CJ-4 oils for the Gen 2, and the bulletin you posted above makes reference to CJ-4 oils rather than CK-4 oils. Thus, the Star Online Publication's statement that "using the oil specified for the GEN 2 engine in the GEN 3 will lead to deposits forming in the turbo charger" does not prove that CK-4 oils are a worse choice on average than MS-12991 oils. So far, the CK-4 oil I'm using (Amsoil 5W-40 Heavy Duty) has performed better than the MS-12991 oils I've used from a wear metals perspective. And if it doesn't lead to turbo deposit issues in the harsher Big 3 diesel engines and hasn't been addressed by MOPAR, I am highly skeptical it would cause any turbo issues for my EcoDiesel
 

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Correct. But the OEM recommends CJ-4 oils for the Gen 2, and the bulletin you posted above makes reference to CJ-4 oils rather than CK-4 oils. Thus, the Star Online Publication's statement that "using the oil specified for the GEN 2 engine in the GEN 3 will lead to deposits forming in the turbo charger" does not prove that CK-4 oils are a worse choice on average than MS-12991 oils.
The Publication also specifically mentioned Rotella T6, which is why I think it's important for everyone to know that Rotella T6 5W-40 is a CK-4 oil. If Rotella T6 doesn't meet spec for the Gen 3 engine, then we already know that a CJ-4 isn't approved either.

And if it doesn't lead to turbo deposit issues in the harsher Big 3 diesel engines and hasn't been addressed by MOPAR, I am highly skeptical it would cause any turbo issues for my EcoDiesel
Until someone pulls a turbo and inspects it, we won't know for sure.
 

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Until someone pulls a turbo and inspects it, we won't know for sure.
That is true. To be on the safe side, I run Archoil products to protect against turbo deposits from the fuel/exhaust side of things, and I do an Amsoil engine flush every 3rd oil change or so to protect against turbo deposits/coking from the oil side of things. We'll see how this routine works in the long run...I'm just doing my best to strike the balance between protecting the engine, emissions equipment, and turbo.
 

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Last run using tdt. Glad to say my aluminum went down. Curious about others opinion on the drop in Al. Now I'm running delvac for 5k and will post those results probably in March/April. Hopefully it performs better.
Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel UOA (Oil Analysis) Results Thread Screenshot_20250925-212846
 
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Last run using tdt. Glad to say my aluminum went down. Curious about others opinion on the drop in Al. Now I'm running delvac for 5k and will post those results probably in March/April. Hopefully it performs better.
Your aluminum dropped from 4 ppm per 1,000 miles to 3.2 ppm per 1,000 miles; however, I bet your aluminum wear rate wouldn't be any better had you gone the extra 1,945 miles.

7,395 miles (4 ppm per 1,000 miles)
5,450 miles (3.2 ppm per 1,000 miles)
 

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Your aluminum dropped from 4 ppm per 1,000 miles to 3.2 ppm per 1,000 miles; however, I bet your aluminum wear rate wouldn't be any better had you gone the extra 1,945 miles.

7,395 miles (4 ppm per 1,000 miles)
5,450 miles (3.2 ppm per 1,000 miles)
So do you attribute the aluminum to wear or flux? Is it simply the fact I didn't run it as long and the oil is poor over 5k miles?
 

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So do you attribute the aluminum to wear or flux? Is it simply the fact I didn't run it as long and the oil is poor over 5k miles?
Your viscosity dropped from a 5W-40 down to 5W-30, which isn't necessarily a major problem, but it shows how fast the Gen 3 engine can shear oil. Your Iron is looking better, though.
 

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Got another sample in today. I’ll probably start getting them every other oil change as things seem to be staying pretty constant with the Amsoil.

Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel UOA (Oil Analysis) Results Thread IMG_1556
 
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Just to clarify-
  • Castrol edge euro 5w-40 A3/B4 with the API SP rating is one of the better/best oils, seemingly cheaper options that still meet the requirements? It's at my local Walmart for $27/gal.
  • My understanding is the SN/SN+ is exceeded by API SP?
  • CJ/CK type oils like T6 are an issue for gen3 turbos and shouldn't be used?
  • MS-whatever can be met by an oil and just not paid to use it on the label?
Couple other Q's while I post on this jeep forum for my ram. I drive 94 miles each way each day. 50% flattish @ 80mph, 50% short hills gear limited to 7th with it dropping to 6th occasionally @ 75mph. About an oil change a month, 50k ish miles a year, b20 fuel, still havent gotten the recall on the fuel injectors.
  • How soon is it going to blow up on my commute, tomorrow?
  • Do you guys think I can get away with multiple oil changes on the same oil filter?
  • EcoGuard filter just as good?
  • Should I even be doing oil changes at 5k-6k miles when they're all highway, or can the castrol mentioned above get away longer safely?
  • Transmission fluid change- yes, no, when, with filter change or just fluid, different brand oil pan/filter?
  • differentials, transfer case, blinker fluid around the 90k-100k mile mark?
  • DEF brand matter at all, when I get a work truck should I delete it?
 

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  • Opinion answers below. I'm sure I'll get flamed anyway. 22 with 53,000 on it. Gde tuned since 18k and driven hard, tow a car 2-3 times a year.
  • Castrol edge euro 5w-40 A3/B4 with the API SP rating is one of the better/best oils, seemingly cheaper options that still meet the requirements? It's at my local Walmart for $27/gal. That oil is good
  • My understanding is the SN/SN+ is exceeded by API SP? Yes.
  • CJ/CK type oils like T6 are an issue for gen3 turbos and shouldn't be used? Correct.
  • MS-whatever can be met by an oil and just not paid to use it on the label? Correct.

  • How soon is it going to blow up on my commute, tomorrow? It probably won't if you keep up on fuel filters and use top tier fuel. Mine has the recalled pump.
  • Do you guys think I can get away with multiple oil changes on the same oil filter? Not worth the risk. Buy them on rock auto.
  • EcoGuard filter just as good? I run them, they have been fine for me. No pressure issues. Stp at local auto parts is 10k rated too. ~36$.
  • Should I even be doing oil changes at 5k-6k miles when they're all highway, or can the castrol mentioned above get away longer safely? 7500 max imo...
  • Transmission fluid change- yes, no, when, with filter change or just fluid, different brand oil pan/filter? Yes, 50k fluid and filter from what others say, I'm at 55k and yet to do it.
  • differentials, transfer case, blinker fluid around the 90k-100k mile mark? I did diffs at 50k. Transfer probably at 60 for me.
  • DEF brand matter at all, when I get a work truck should I delete it? I've run the traveler premium from tractor supply. No issues. Mines not deleted but I live in a Communist state. I've heard good things from Mr tuning
 

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  • Opinion answers below. I'm sure I'll get flamed anyway. 22 with 53,000 on it. Gde tuned since 18k and driven hard, tow a car 2-3 times a year.
  • Castrol edge euro 5w-40 A3/B4 with the API SP rating is one of the better/best oils, seemingly cheaper options that still meet the requirements? It's at my local Walmart for $27/gal. That oil is good
  • My understanding is the SN/SN+ is exceeded by API SP? Yes.
  • CJ/CK type oils like T6 are an issue for gen3 turbos and shouldn't be used? Correct.
  • MS-whatever can be met by an oil and just not paid to use it on the label? Correct.

  • How soon is it going to blow up on my commute, tomorrow? It probably won't if you keep up on fuel filters and use top tier fuel. Mine has the recalled pump.
  • Do you guys think I can get away with multiple oil changes on the same oil filter? Not worth the risk. Buy them on rock auto.
  • EcoGuard filter just as good? I run them, they have been fine for me. No pressure issues. Stp at local auto parts is 10k rated too. ~36$.
  • Should I even be doing oil changes at 5k-6k miles when they're all highway, or can the castrol mentioned above get away longer safely? 7500 max imo...
  • Transmission fluid change- yes, no, when, with filter change or just fluid, different brand oil pan/filter? Yes, 50k fluid and filter from what others say, I'm at 55k and yet to do it.
  • differentials, transfer case, blinker fluid around the 90k-100k mile mark? I did diffs at 50k. Transfer probably at 60 for me.
  • DEF brand matter at all, when I get a work truck should I delete it? I've run the traveler premium from tractor supply. No issues. Mines not deleted but I live in a Communist state. I've heard good things from Mr tuning
You want mine?

Jeep Gladiator EcoDiesel UOA (Oil Analysis) Results Thread 1762643249232-e4
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