What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Stan H]

I was going to ask if that was actually your press, or borrowed it, etc. Not something everyone has in the pegboard

Yeah , He had a Chevy 1985 square body in the shop and a side by side and a honda... then last Saturday he had a Doctor's appt. So it was just waiting for opportune time. I'm like a kid in a candy store in there .

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[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah all his stuff. Except the 36mm socket for the axle nuts .

Ironically, That's the same size used on the front axle-to-hub nut for the Eagle.
The hubs area actually very similar as well.

 

[Mbryson]

#RedDogTools and I were able to get this fixed up for me. I was pretty remote (south central Utah). I bought the tools from them at Utah 4x4 Winter Jamboree last Jan. He assured me that I would have all the tools I needed. I am impressed so far. Had everything I need to pull the inner shaft and drive out in low range (using the locker if needed to get the other front tire to help when needed).

This is a bit concerning.

That's not quite the axle joint size I was led to believe it was? I was under the impression this was similar/same as a 1350 driveline joint? I'll have to dig one out to compare to the spare shafts I have. I'm not sure if I still have a 297/760 joint still kicking around or not? A quick lookup on O'Reillyauto.com shows a 1350 axle joint as the replacement part.

I did expect something beefier but it is what it is. 6000 lb car out getting used a bit.

Teraflex ball joints are in hand already. That'll get me somewhere. We'll see how it goes with the little machining from the fractured shaft.

Gratitous scenery shot just for fun

 

[MPMB]

Like ever. I’ll replace axles before doing ball joints on these again. But they’re rebuildable now, so you’re good? I use the question mark because you still need to get the knuckle off for the rebuild. Balls.

I have an adverse reaction to ball joints from my stock car days. Those were a giant PITA to take off, even with a picklefork.

I guess the easy way is to buy all new parts and swap those in, leaving the OEM stuff together.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I did expect something beefier but it is what it is. 6000 lb car out getting used a bit.

And if the front wheels are turned much at all, there's hellish pressure against the joint due to the angle. With enough angle, there's not so much pressure to cause rotation as there is forcing against it in other directions, not to mention the exaggerated speed or rotational differences between the two parts of the shaft.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have an adverse reaction to ball joints from my stock car days. Those were a giant PITA to take off, even with a picklefork.

I guess the easy way is to buy all new parts and swap those in, leaving the OEM stuff together.

Either a bigger hammer on the eye of the joint, or an air chisel with a blunt end against it.

 

[Mbryson]

And if the front wheels are turned much at all, there's hellish pressure against the joint due to the angle. With enough angle, there's not so much pressure to cause rotation as there is forcing against it in other directions, not to mention the exaggerated speed or rotational differences between the two parts of the shaft.

Where how it broke was SILLY easy. I'm SURE it was well fatigued before it broke. I do have over 80 trail days on the rig and am running 38" BFG KM3 (39" on the sidewall). I usually drive it like you mention/allude to. Rarely spinning tires if at all possible.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Where how it broke was SILLY easy. I'm SURE it was well fatigued before it broke. I do have over 80 trail days on the rig and am running 38" BFG KM3 (39" on the sidewall). I usually drive it like you mention/allude to. Rarely spinning tires if at all possible.

Hmmmm, maybe carry a spare............

On the other hand, I bet you were having fun up to the point it broke.

 

[Mbryson]

Hmmmm, maybe carry a spare............

On the other hand, I bet you were having fun up to the point it broke.

I'm always out having fun in this thing. Great car!


I am a little concerned about the axle "C" where the lower ball joint sits. The broken shaft carved a bit of material out of there. I'll have to see how the lower ball joint comes out and decide how I feel about things.

 

[Mightytalldude]

Haven't done it yet, but going to replace the slave cylinder on my clutch later this week. It's starting to be difficult to shift into first and reverse, and at 90k miles, the slave cylinder is overdue.

 

[Stan H]

I'm always out having fun in this thing. Great car!


I am a little concerned about the axle "C" where the lower ball joint sits. The broken shaft carved a bit of material out of there. I'll have to see how the lower ball joint comes out and decide how I feel about things.

I think it will be fine . It looks to be more of a wide scratch ,and not a deep gouge.
Those knuckles just dont want to let loose the bottom one on the passenger side didn't want to break loose from the knuckle yet the top one was loose . We took a 4 foot Pry bar and after hitting the knuckle till I started to get scared I had the idea to stand on the bar ( 205 pounds of me ) and had my uncle hit upwards on the ball joint bolt itself . That is what actually got it to let loose.
Of all the jobs I have done to the JT knuckles rank #1 as the worst #2 E-brakes, #3 sparkplugs . Putting an entire lift on was the easiest thing .

Your bolt 12 point 13mm for the hub assembly you probably should replace that . If you can't get it loose cut the head off. The threads are in the hub assembly. Then when you put new hub in add new bolt.

 

[Stan H]

Haven't done it yet, but going to replace the slave cylinder on my clutch later this week. It's starting to be difficult to shift into first and reverse, and at 90k miles, the slave cylinder is overdue.

Plastic OH MY lordy they went crazy with that crap didn't they .

 

[Stan H]

Ironically, That's the same size used on the front axle-to-hub nut for the Eagle.
The hubs area actually very similar as well.

And you probably know 36mm has no imperical measurement equivalent.

 

[Mbryson]

I think it will be fine . It looks to be more of a wide scratch ,and not a deep gouge.
Those knuckles just dont want to let loose the bottom one on the passenger side didn't want to break loose from the knuckle yet the top one was loose . We took a 4 foot Pry bar and after hitting the knuckle till I started to get scared I had the idea to stand on the bar ( 205 pounds of me ) and had my uncle hit upwards on the ball joint bolt itself . That is what actually got it to let loose.
Of all the jobs I have done to the JT knuckles rank #1 as the worst #2 E-brakes, #3 sparkplugs . Putting an entire lift on was the easiest thing .
....

I do wish it was a scratch but it's at least 1/8" deep at it's deepest point. Just enough to make me concerned.

...Your bolt 12 point 13mm for the hub assembly you probably should replace that . If you can't get it loose cut the head off. The threads are in the hub assembly. Then when you put new hub in add new bolt.

I had to tap my socket on there (two of the three bolts) to remove/reinstall the unit bearing to get the inner shaft out before driving out of the trail.

 

[MPMB]

And you probably know 36mm has no imperical measurement equivalent.

Wrong.

I present you the adjustable 1-13/32" wrench:

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