Having a similar problem. Which skid plate was the problem. Was it the one attached to the bumper?
No it was the transfer case skid
Had a girlfriend that used hers, A LOT. The rotors were showing the internal ribbing......Why didn't you just use that noise
Elimination dial on the dash board.
Mine was the driver side outer bolt. The nut inside the frame broke the weld that was holding it and allowed it to wiggle around and clunk.Oddly enough I have went through this three times on 3 different JT’s .
Strange thing is the problem never showed itself until after each gladiator had been fluid film under coated ( NE Ohio they love salt and brine ).
21 Willys with 20k miles teraflex leveling kit. 22 Sport S 50k miles teraflex leveling kit. And 25 Willys with Mopar ish Lift kit with 4700 miles 2500 since the lift.
Did brakes and shocks on the wife’s 22 a couple weeks back and decided to check everything over as hers was annoying any off camber chassis flex at low speed ( driveway apron ) etc.
tightened up every skid plate bolt and the one pesky nut that ties the transfer case skid to the stud from the gas tank skid plate. That nut just never wants to truly cinch up all the way. But it almost completely eliminated the noise.
My 25 was undercoated a couple weeks back and lo and behold 4 days later the same noise started ugh! Since I had already rechecked torque on all suspension after a 1000 miles and paint marked all fasteners, I figured I would get under it today and do another round of checking and also check my skid plate bolts and LOD slider fasteners. Was able to get a few ugga duggas on the skid plate bolts and just like the wife’s, that pesky nut the ties the transfer case skid to the gas tank skid plate just doesn’t want to fully tighten. Go for a spin and only hear it a couple times pulling up on curbs at angle..
so I come back and crawl back under it and I’m going to see if I can tighten that pesky nut some more… Snap!!! It broke off..
so at that point I figured oh well let me go for another ride and did the curbs again drove through some deeply sunken parking lot drain grates and no noise at all.. Don’t know if coincidence or it’s that damn nut, but tomorrow back and forth to work should tell me positively if it’s solved. If so I’m going to remove the nut off of the wife’s gladiator after work tomorrow.
My noise was eliminated until I left from work Tuesday night. But new noise is almost chattering just cruising across a parking lot now. Checked upper and lower control arm torque and track bar Wednesday between food prep lol. All was good there. So last night was going through some of my notes from when I did the mopar ish lift. And I came across the 2024 model year front sway bar end link torque specs.. WTH!! 130 ft lbs for the link to sway/stabilizer bar nut for 2024 and up and 90 ft lbs for 2023 and older … which is contradicting for anything I have seen previously. Is this Mopars fix for the numerous end link loose issues?? I would like to see a model year 2024 and newer service manual to see if this is correct.
People routinely torque control arm nuts to 200+ with crows feet adapters. I would make certain that the new link doesn’t have a stronger stud. 40lb increase in torque is quite a difference if it’s the same bolt.
The model year 23 and older always called for 69 ft lbs at link to sway bar. But now the Mopar lift instructions state 90 ft lbs for 23 and older 12mm and 130 ft lbs for 24 and newer which is 14mm size. So even at the older 12mm that’s 21 ft lb of increased torque which is why it had me scratching my head.
Instead of using a crows foot get a through socket set ( gear wrench makes em) or just do what I did on those . 130 is the wheel stud torque value and I know how hard I pulled there . I just put a really good pull on em and called it good.
I've used the old 69ft lb spec with no issues. For the 6mm allen, i only hold it to snug up the nut then removed and torqued with a regular socket, it shouldn't spin. I've seen people aplied threadlocker but i don't recommend it.
I was referring to the lock nuts on adjustable arms. Most want you to torque them to 200+ but it’s impossible without a crows foot adapter on a torque wrench.
