Overland tire load rating

[Patrol65]

What rated tire are you running C,D or E for overlanding? Is C to light for a rubiconx with smart cap, RTT, bed drawer system and fridge?

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[ChrisNLA]

What rated tire are you running C,D or E for overlanding? Is C to light for a rubiconx with smart cap, RTT, bed drawer system and fridge?

C-rated tires exceed the maximum axle load capacity of any Gladiator built by a wide margin.

I have 285/70 KO3s (C load), which is about 2,700 pounds per tire at max pressure - or 5,600 pounds worth of capacity per pair on a truck that's only rated for about 3,700 GAWR on the rear axle.

An E-Load tire has other benefits, such as a thicker carcass, etc. which may be beneficial durability wise offroad.

Do you need E-load to support the weight? Nope. Do you need E-load for added durability? Perhaps. They will weigh more and degrade the ride quality slightly, but that's all subjective.

I run C-load even though it's not uncommon to load my truck all the way to and beyond it's limits - but I am not overlanding, I am honey doing from Home Depot to the house

 

[fourfa]

IMHO it’s more about how much sidewall thickness you need for trails made of sharp rocks. Load limits on gravel roads are not an issue (as above). It really depends heavily on the exact tire, the exact pressures you use, and the exact terrain you run on. I’ve punctured several E-rated sidewalls in Death Valley (Michelin LTX-ATs), one C-rated in Escalante (stock Falken on my Rubicon), but fingers crossed, the D-rated Yoko X-ATs I’m currently running have stood up to everything (DVNP, Rubicon etc) and wrap really nicely when deflated.

 

[JTdiRtyD]

Well, the correct answer is any C rated tire thats available for the Gladi is going to meet the GVWR of the vehicle, and since you should always keep total weight within GVWR, then any C rated will be fine.

With that said, D and E rated tires will handle the weight better, but they aren't necessary.

But to answer the bigger question behind this post, first you really should get your trucks weight with a full loadout (people, consumables, gear, etc.). If you tow often, be sure to add tongue weight into the mix. If that number is higher than your GVWR then you should try and get that weight down to within your GVWR, but we all know most people don't do that, so take your trucks weight, or your GVWR, whichever is higher, and divide it by 4. Your tires load rating should be higher than that number.

There can be the argument that you need the heaviest axle rating to determine the load rating, but the axle rating in our trucks comes out to higher than GVWR, so you would use the lower of the two, which is GVWR.

As fourfa stated, it honestly comes down to tire durability for overlanding. I usually opt for D rated if it's available in the size I want, otherwise I'll get E rated. I find myself on trails with higher puncture risk, and I tow often enough so having a more durable carcass is ideal. E rated has a tougher carcass, than D, but D usually weight a little less.

 

[ericw.]

I would avoid E but C and D load ratings should be fine.

My previous C rated tires were comfortable and D rated a little bit harder however the sidewall durability was important to me, and other less relevant factors played into my choice.

 

[robinja]

If you will be overlanding where there is a rational concern for breaking belts or puncturing, then E rated. However, C and D are perfectly fine to use for most scenarios. With E, on road you will feel a stiffer ride difference over C. Hope that helps.

 

[jhale1800]

I just went from E-rated BFG's to C-rated in May. The C-rated has been much more comfortable, and I haven't had any durability issues so far. I wanted E-rated again, but due to supply at the time I settled for C-rated. In hindsight, I'm glad I went with the C-rated tires.

 

[Patrol65]

Looking at ko2 37s and AEV borah wheels. If I research it right the tires are about same weight as stock wildpeak. But AEV rims run 33pounds vs 24 pound stock ones. 9 pounds more per corner seems a lot...

I have a Rubicon x

 

[Mash5]

For the last 4 years I have used my jeep primarily as a family tourer. The oe tires had four failures in the first 16000 miles two punctures and two tread damage with air just coming through the tread. At that point I put e rated wildpeaks 33s on and had 0 tire failures in the next 50k miles or so. Then I switched to erated Micky Thompsons 35s and have had 0 issues with them.
Recently thought I took a job two states away on the other side of the sierras. With the plan to tow heavy trailer loads back and forth I decided to give my transmission a break and pick up some stock take off. Paid $350 for a set of half worn c rated firestones in something like stock size.
The ride is noticeable less harsh. Handling still sucks. Confidence in the tires is an all-time low. Milage is down when towing but up otherwise. For my next tires, I may look for some Ds. For what I do most of the time the durability is an easy win. If I were daily driving it, the choice would be harder.

 

[caryt]

I want a tire that can do it all and is proven tough so a Trail Grappler.
Only other tire I may consider is the Baja Boss XS.

 

[m-l_johnny]

This video about load ratings popped up on my ewe-toob feed. Thought it was interesting.

 

[bd100]

No matter what you get, know that you may have to increase tire pressure if you change to a heavier load. I.e. going to the store tire pressure may not be enough when loaded for cross country travel plus a trailer hitched up.

And stiffer tires can be better for trailer towing, and for emergency maneuvers. And for fun mountain switchbacks on the highway. What's good handling for some people is poor for others.

Switched out the OEM highway tires for some E-rated all-terrains before a trip to CO. Came back with the sidewalls all scuffed up but no flats. Worth it to me.

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