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Show me your high mileage 3.6 with oil recommendations !

Mr Miami

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Additive packages in oil will only stay mixed in the oil for about 5yrs. After than they tend to sink to the bottom of the jug/quart
Is it like orange juice where you can just shake the jug and drink, I mean, pour it into the engine once it is mixed?
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did y'all know that the oil life meter goes by how many hours the engine runs not.by the mileage you put on...I know this because I sit and idle the engine alot....which probably isn't good for it...but when I do this it knocks the oil life meter down to about 3k miles for an oil chamge...instead of the factory mileage...
It's a combination. The computer analyzes driving habits and adjusts the oil life accordingly. That's why it's "oil life" and not a mileage or hour gauge.

I last changed oil at 62800 in August after the cam change and on New Year's Day I hit 1% oil life at almost 69000 miles.

That time period includes a long day trip to Moab for Fins & Things, Shafer Trail, an attempt to find The Lost World, a long weekend up to Glacier NP, and down home through Yellowstone and Grand Tetons, and an out-and-back to Grand Basin NP. Sprinkled were short drives around town, to HD, the mall, Costco, dinner in Park City, etc; no commuting.
 

jeepdude75

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I think that's good, isn't it? An engine that is idling or crawling through traffic at 5 mph is still being worn and contaminating the oil, ever so slightly, every hour it is operating. Think of aircraft engines. The TBO (time before overhaul) and most other maintenance procedures are hour related. It makes little difference how far the plane flew, but the hours the engine has been operating.

A drive from St. Louis to KC is about 250 miles and 3 1/2 hours straight across I-70. Drive in New York City, Boston or any other city and accumulate 250 miles and the engine may run a week to do that.

So I would not minimize the effect of time on the engine. Even my marine engine (300hp Suzuki) gets its service (every 100 hours) based on hours, not on distance.
It's a combination. The computer analyzes driving habits and adjusts the oil life accordingly. That's why it's "oil life" and not a mileage or hour gauge.

I last changed oil at 62800 in August after the cam change and on New Year's Day I hit 1% oil life at almost 69000 miles.

That time period includes a long day trip to Moab for Fins & Things, Shafer Trail, an attempt to find The Lost World, a long weekend up to Glacier NP, and down home through Yellowstone and Grand Tetons, and an out-and-back to Grand Basin NP. Sprinkled were short drives around town, to HD, the mall, Costco, dinner in Park City, etc; no commuting.





yea i was just sharing the information that I learned is all...in case anyone else didn't know already...I thought it was always just based on the odometer reading...no the case I'm finding out...lol
 

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Is it like orange juice where you can just shake the jug and drink, I mean, pour it into the engine once it is mixed?
I aint sure if it will mix back in . I just know I watch Lake Speed Jr. Showing this .
 

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I would just comment I would be happy with the "dreaded 3.6 tick" at 233k miles.

If I ever had a vehicle (non-diesel) that had 233k miles on it I would consider it great.
I have had 6 different Jeeps with the 4.0L that went well past 250K with no issues.
And a Toyota 4.7L.
They were great!

Now most Jeep people consider 100K miles on the 3.6L high miles.
I guess it is when most die before 150K. :LOL:
 

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I have had 6 different Jeeps with the 4.0L that went well past 250K with no issues.
And a Toyota 4.7L.
They were great!

Now most Jeep people consider 100K miles on the 3.6L high miles.
I guess it is when most die before 150K. :LOL:
I'd be curious to see all data, taking the Chargers and the Cherokees into consideration.

Folks with Jeeps often find a way to justify buying a $50K vehicle and park it in the garage and drive it once a month and (to your point) then tell you they haven't had any issues.

I'm reluctant to believe mine will be as solid as a lot of other engines at legitimate high mileage (early LS Chevrolets being another example to add to yours).
 

Mr Miami

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I have had 6 different Jeeps with the 4.0L that went well past 250K with no issues.
And a Toyota 4.7L.
They were great!

Now most Jeep people consider 100K miles on the 3.6L high miles.
I guess it is when most die before 150K. :LOL:
Yes, the days of the 4.0 are unfortunately gone. I have 135k on my TJ and it has never missed a beat.

Since the vast majority of people never put 250k on a vehicle, call it overbuilding or whatever is no longer a major selling point for manufacturers. Minimizing weight and maximizing MPG are the emphasis on engines today.
 

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OMG, yet another stupid oil thread they gets such complex crap thrown in.

There is ZERO evidence any oil other than recommended helps anything.
There IS evidence that heavier oil can still see cam failure.
Lake Speed Jr. himself always closes with "start with what the factory recommends.
Wow,
 

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did y'all know that the oil life meter goes by how many hours the engine runs not.by the mileage you put on...I know this because I sit and idle the engine alot....which probably isn't good for it...but when I do this it knocks the oil life meter down to about 3k miles for an oil chamge...instead of the factory mileage...
Sorry, it's NOT that simple. It goes by the use, load, temperatures and more. It's literally smarter than you and takes more into account than almost any driver. It's been proven - even by an expert most folks here respect.
It goes by idle time, engine time at certain temperatures (short drives that never fully warm it up for over 10 minutes will ding you). It considers ALL factors.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Additive packages in oil will only stay mixed in the oil for about 5yrs. After than they tend to sink to the bottom of the jug/quart
I believe Lake said to shake oil before pouring into engine.

I'll have to see if I can find that again.............

And as far as other additives you put in yourself - total crap, don't use them.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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The service guy at the dealer yesterday told me the computer can tell what viscosity is in the engine.
That's one I'd never go back to..............
 

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OMG, yet another stupid oil thread they gets such complex crap thrown in.

There is ZERO evidence any oil other than recommended helps anything.
There IS evidence that heavier oil can still see cam failure.
Lake Speed Jr. himself always closes with "start with what the factory recommends.
Wow,
While all that is true, there is also zero evidence (known to us) that higher viscosity doesn't help. Maybe it isn't a cure-all, but that doesn't prove it doesn't help.

Everything being said about higher viscosity oil being better is anecdotal ("it sounds quieter to me with 5W30 so it must be better") or an assumption that 0W20 was specified for better fuel mileage but at the expense of engine reliability. Everything said about it not helping is also anectotal ("there are still cam failures") or the assumption that the manufacturer-specified oil viscosity does not harm reliability. There are scientific theories on both sides but no proof. We are at an impasse.
 

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While all that is true, there is also zero evidence (known to us) that higher viscosity doesn't help. Maybe it isn't a cure-all, but that doesn't prove it doesn't help.

Everything being said about higher viscosity oil being better is anecdotal ("it sounds quieter to me with 5W30 so it must be better") or an assumption that 0W20 was specified for better fuel mileage but at the expense of engine reliability. Everything said about it not helping is also anectotal ("there are still cam failures") or the assumption that the manufacturer-specified oil viscosity does not harm reliability. There are scientific theories on both sides but no proof. We are at an impasse.
Maybe watch more of Lake's videos.......
I wouldn't say it's exactly an impasse. My quality 0w20 can be better that your heavier oil. It's not all about viscosity and less friction doesn't equate to less wear. He's proven and demonstrated that.
But people on the internet want it simple - it's not nor can it be made that simple.
 

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I've watched his videos. The ones I saw provide general information with some positives and negatives to be considered. They are interesting and informative but I did not see one specifically about 3.6L cam failures where his testing showed that 0W20 is the bees knees for this engine. You already know I am in the camp of 0W20 being for MPG while being bare minimum for the engine. I have no scientific proof behind that, just as there is no scientific proof available that shows 0W20 is ideal.
 
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