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Gizmo

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If its the two I am thinking of I used a 10mm ratchet wrench on the front one and socket with short extension for the rear one . I used a swivel socket on a long extension to remove the bolt below the front nut that attached the bracket so the bracket can move a little to help get the stud out as you lift and remove the upper intake .
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Tim

Tim

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If its the two I am thinking of I used a 10mm ratchet wrench on the front one and socket with short extension for the rear one . I used a swivel socket on a long extension to remove the bolt below the front nut that attached the bracket so the bracket can move a little to help get the stud out as you lift and remove the upper intake .
Yeah that's what I did, too. I removed the fender and came at the lower bolt from the side, though. Still needed a long extension and a T40 on a u-joint.
 

WILDHOBO

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If its the two I am thinking of I used a 10mm ratchet wrench on the front one and socket with short extension for the rear one . I used a swivel socket on a long extension to remove the bolt below the front nut that attached the bracket so the bracket can move a little to help get the stud out as you lift and remove the upper intake .
Pretty much exactly how I did it. Just gently moved the bracket out and off of the stud permanently into the intake manifold. Annoying, but doable. Easier than removing any of those cooler lines.
 

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Yeah that's what I did, too. I removed the fender and came at the lower bolt from the side, though. Still needed a long extension and a T40 on a u-joint.
I didn’t have the fender off. Either time. I had to do it a second time when I lost a couple coils on a long road trip. Had to do it in an oreilys parking lot in Indiana.
 

Gizmo

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Was much faster the second time changing it in less than a week but very annoyed to be doing it with only 18,000 miles on the truck and not being sure what was wrong with the initial cooler.
 

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Was much faster the second time changing it in less than a week but very annoyed to be doing it with only 18,000 miles on the truck and not being sure what was wrong with the initial cooler.
I can certainly understand that.
 

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Was much faster the second time changing it in less than a week but very annoyed to be doing it with only 18,000 miles on the truck and not being sure what was wrong with the initial cooler.
At 18k why didn’t you have this done under warranty? Just curious.
 

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At 18k why didn’t you have this done under warranty? Just curious.
I’m guessing the same reason I didn’t. I hate dealers so much, and trust them less than a teenager with a flask at prom.
 

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At 18k why didn’t you have this done under warranty? Just curious.
The reason I ask is mine is now at 62k, went to the dealership 3 times about it leaking oil (from the oil cooler/housing) These jerks kept pressing me that it has to leave a puddle before it can be replaced under warranty. Bottom line, they were just stalling running out the clock on the warranty. Now it’s leaking pretty bad, of course. Went back to the same dealership ship and now they tell me, that Jeep will only cover 60% of the repairs…$1670.00 out of pocket. What aholes…Met yesterday with a couple of lawyers from my past, laid out all my documentation to them, providing phone records and documentation from the dealership of the three attempts to get them to stand by their product.

I‘m not sure even if ”we” can press them into the repairs, I want the same OEM parts back in the motor, just to repeat the heat cycles on the same f’n piece of plastic. Your experiences even with the Dorman extruded aluminum product has me very concerned.

My question to the forum members…how many of you have went through this heat cycle hell on this OEM product? And while I’m asking, how many Dorman products have failed after installing?

Last question to the group…has anyone yanked out this sweet piece of engineering and installed a remote oil and coolant (if required)coolers and a remote spin on oil filter?

Thanks in advance for your input.
 

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Gizmo

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I avoid dealers as much as possible. Even at 71 i prefer to see whats going on my self let alone a service manager talk to me like i never seen a wrench before.most are an insult to your intelligence to even try to hold a conversation with. First time it broke i lost about 2 quarts in about 150’ second time about a quart so I had a couple puddles. First time it took all day to fix as I had never done it before. Second time i had the cooler in my hand in about 2 hrs. I have never had luck with warrantys on anything so I dont bother
 
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Tim

Tim

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The reason I ask is mine is now at 62k, went to the dealership 3 times about it leaking oil (from the oil cooler/housing) These jerks kept pressing me that it has to leave a puddle before it can be replaced under warranty. Bottom line, they were just stalling running out the clock on the warranty. Now it’s leaking pretty bad, of course. Went back to the same dealership ship and now they tell me, that Jeep will only cover 60% of the repairs…$1670.00 out of pocket. What aholes…Met yesterday with a couple of lawyers from my past, laid out all my documentation to them, providing phone records and documentation from the dealership of the three attempts to get them to stand by their product.

I‘m not sure even if ”we” can press them into the repairs, I want the same OEM parts back in the motor, just to repeat the heat cycles on the same f’n piece of plastic. Your experiences even with the Dorman extruded aluminum product has me very concerned.

My question to the forum members…how many of you have went through this heat cycle hell on this OEM product? And while I’m asking, how many Dorman products have failed after installing?

Last question to the group…has anyone yanked out this sweet piece of engineering and installed a remote oil and coolant (if required)coolers and a remote spin on oil filter?

Thanks in advance for your input.
$1,670 and that was only 40%? Damn.

I am way out of warranty but I echo the sentiment shared by a few others on here. I don't trust dealers. I've had too many questionable experiences to waste my time with them for much at this point.
 
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Tim

Tim

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I avoid dealers as much as possible. Even at 71 i prefer to see whats going on my self let alone a service manager talk to me like i never seen a wrench before.most are an insult to your intelligence to even try to hold a conversation with. First time it broke i lost about 2 quarts in about 150’ second time about a quart so I had a couple puddles. First time it took all day to fix as I had never done it before. Second time i had the cooler in my hand in about 2 hrs. I have never had luck with warrantys on anything so I dont bother
Did you replace the cooler with a OEM cooler or something else? I'm curious as to how the replacement failed.
 

Gizmo

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I first replaced the factory installed updated mopar assembly with a Dorman which leaked badly next dat i think it laster a few miles because the area its in looks to hold about a quart before it shows on the ground. Then i said to hell with dorman and ordered a Mopar Which is holding so far according to dip stick as nothing is showing yet. None leaked where the MOPAR upgrade took place always at the bottom. All said and done it cost me $155. For cooler and the cost of new oil. It comes with a filter installed
 

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I avoid dealers as much as possible. Even at 71 i prefer to see whats going on my self let alone a service manager talk to me like i never seen a wrench before.most are an insult to your intelligence to even try to hold a conversation with. First time it broke i lost about 2 quarts in about 150’ second time about a quart so I had a couple puddles. First time it took all day to fix as I had never done it before. Second time i had the cooler in my hand in about 2 hrs. I have never had luck with warrantys on anything so I dont bother
That really sucks. I do as well. Dealers suck.
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