Aux battery died now head unit is dead and remote start.

[khoop9]

Aux battery died on me and it didn't quite kill my main battery but I decided to replace it anyways and delete the aux all together. 2022 ecodiesel Rubicon if that matters. I followed others on how they deleted it. Pulled f42 and taped off the negative to the aux and attached the positive of the aux to the main. I had a permanent low voltage code that I force cleared with the jscan and it hasn't come back. The head unit just will not turn on. With all the research I've done it seems like it has to do with a safety feature of the ibs not letting it turn on until it relearns its new state or something. I have unplugged the battery for a solid 20hrs and reset all of my modules via jscan. I have pulled all the accompanying fuses and checked voltages on everything. I have power in the harness at the back of the head unit. And I have given the jeep 4 or 5 drive cycles of about an hour a piece. Currently I have a battery charger and ignition on and have left it overnight. I would purchase another head unit just because it seems like this one is just bricked or something but my remote start isn't working either and that also has to do with the battery ibs. I've been banging my head against a wall for 5 days now. If anyone can help it would be appreciated.

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[Maximus Gladius]

Have you unplugged and pulled the IBS off, completely separating it from the negative cables? This will reset it. I’ve also taken some sandpaper and cleaned both contact points of the IBS.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

You could have a problem with the high amp Z fuse array. This fuse sounds blown. Do you have a fuse tester you could check out that fuse to know?

 

[khoop9]

You could have a problem with the high amp Z fuse array. This fuse sounds blown. Do you have a fuse tester you could check out that fuse to know?

So I do not have a fuse tester. But im looking up what that high amp z fuse array is. I have not checked that. Is it testable with a multimeter? And I should asko add. That I have this weird electric squeel when I shut the engine off or when I turn the ignition on. Girlfriend says it's always done that but I don't think it has. It shuts off when the power turns off and I hear the relay click. Not sure if that is related.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

So I do not have a fuse tester. But im looking up what that high amp z fuse array is. I have not checked that. Is it testable with a multimeter? And I should asko add. That I have this weird electric squeel when I shut the engine off or when I turn the ignition on. Girlfriend says it's always done that but I don't think it has. It shuts off when the power turns off and I hear the relay click. Not sure if that is related.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Test done with multimeter

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I know you have the diesel, but I’ve heard the squeal on my 21 JTR 3.6 and it’s always evident when ignition is in power mode, engine off and sound comes from my throttle body. I have found that the louder it gets as I’m doing stuff under the hood, the battery is needing to be plugged in and charged up. Once the charger has done its thing, squeal goes away.

To me, it’s an indicator the charger needs to be hooked up. I might be wrong but that explanation works for me.

 

[AOGAudiman]

And I should asko add. That I have this weird electric squeel when I shut the engine off or when I turn the ignition on. Girlfriend says it's always done that but I don't think it has. It shuts off when the power turns off and I hear the relay click. Not sure if that is related.

That squeal noise is normal on the diesel. Mine has done it since the day I got it.

 

[khoop9]

I know you have the diesel, but I’ve heard the squeal on my 21 JTR 3.6 and it’s always evident when ignition is in power mode, engine off and sound comes from my throttle body. I have found that the louder it gets as I’m doing stuff under the hood, the battery is needing to be plugged in and charged up. Once the charger has done its thing, squeal goes away.

To me, it’s an indicator the charger needs to be hooked up. I might be wrong but that explanation works for me.

Found some old videos of the jeep after it got deleted and the squeel was there. Checked that fuse array bar and everything is good there. I want to say its just my ibs sensor that is bad but i can see the live readings with the jscan it seems to be operating normally. At this point i would have just ordered a head unit and checked that way but the fact my remote start isnt working either shows some root issue i seem to not be able to find. Grok said the dealer can see more with their scan tool so maybe ill just have to break out the wallet. my only concern is their going to try and say it is because of the aux battery not being present but as we all know many many people do this with zero issues lol.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Found some old videos of the jeep after it got deleted and the squeel was there. Checked that fuse array bar and everything is good there. I want to say its just my ibs sensor that is bad but i can see the live readings with the jscan it seems to be operating normally. At this point i would have just ordered a head unit and checked that way but the fact my remote start isnt working either shows some root issue i seem to not be able to find. Grok said the dealer can see more with their scan tool so maybe ill just have to break out the wallet. my only concern is their going to try and say it is because of the aux battery not being present but as we all know many many people do this with zero issues lol.

I’m assuming you accessed the aux from the top side? Before you head over to the dealership, go back in and repeat all your steps again, double checking all the connections. It was working before until the aux was taken out, right? If you did anything different that wasn’t done before like positive cable from the aux you put on the main… take that back off and just tape it up or pull out those wires.

The Z fuse array has one stud that is to remain empty. It’s easy to have put a cable on it by mistake.

 

[khoop9]

I’m assuming you accessed the aux from the top side? Before you head over to the dealership, go back in and repeat all your steps again, double checking all the connections. It was working before until the aux was taken out, right? If you did anything different that wasn’t done before like positive cable from the aux you put on the main… take that back off and just tape it up or pull out those wires.

The Z fuse array has one stud that is to remain empty. It’s easy to have put a cable on it by mistake.

Alrighty made some late night discoveries. Firstly I disconnected and cleaned all of my terminals I could. Double checked all my fuses. I unmarried my tazer mini. Just trying to eliminate as many variables I can. And my remote start now works! But while I was unmarrying the tazer I found out my dash and gear shifter aren't falling asleep. It is just constant staying on. When I unhooked my tazer after, it shut off the screen but when I hooked the security gateway back to oem, the dash won't fall asleep like it was prior. I do

have one question maybe you or someone can answer and that's how to check the mega fuse adjacent to the z array. I'll attach a photo. It's that top post or number 1 and it attaches to the 2nd post.
Edit. The ecodiesels access to the z array is a bit of a bitch compared the pentastar

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Shout out to @Rusty PW for help/advice.

 

[Rusty PW]

Shout out to @Rusty PW for help/advice.

Did someone shine the Bat Light up in the clouds?

Make sure the Z fuse is good. Then follow this video for the aux battery delete. Doing this method. You don't have to pull fuse 42. Disconnect both battery posts. Keep the negative cable from touching anything. Do the all of the positive cabling first and hooked up to the battery. Then do the negative cabling.

 

[swtrailboss]

Just having a “Papa” popcorn moment. Don’t mind me- just waiting!

 

[khoop9]

Did someone shine the Bat Light up in the clouds?

Make sure the Z fuse is good. Then follow this video for the aux battery delete. Doing this method. You don't have to pull fuse 42. Disconnect both battery posts. Keep the negative cable from touching anything. Do the all of the positive cabling first and hooked up to the battery. Then do the negative cabling.

That's the same video I copied. And I reached out to Wolf overland myself and he asked if I was getting power to my the harness to the head unit which I am. But yes checked z fuse yesterday and it's good. I think there's a related issue in that my dash isn't fully sleeping. It may be why my head unit isn't waking up. But again I'm at a loss. Had a long drive to see family and everything is normal now except dash staying awake and head unit not powering on. The remote start seemed to fix itself when I unmarried the tazer.

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