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Battery Cut-off switch for both Main and Aux Battery?

ShadowsPapa

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A battery tender sounds so much more straightforward and effective.
But he doesn't have AC power where it sits so it would require solar or a cutoff. For longer term, solar may be best due to slow self discharge even with no load on the batteries
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OldGriz

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Two options:

Install a battery maintainer that is plugged in when the vehicle is parked.

Install a cut-off in the negative line between the frame and main battery.

The batteries are paralleled together, the positive sides are connected. The Aux negative goes to the Main negative, which then connects to the frame. Confirm by disconnecting the negative cable from the frame and see if everything goes dead.
Could i put a remote battery disconnect switch on the positive lead to the power steering pump to stop current and prevent a possible fire from overcurrent to the PSP? Your thoughts?
 

ShadowsPapa

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Could i put a remote battery disconnect switch on the positive lead to the power steering pump to stop current and prevent a possible fire from overcurrent to the PSP? Your thoughts?
The issue I have with these fires is that as there is no load at the cable when it's not running - power is there, but no flow to cause heat and melt things, the issue must begin while it's running and there's a draw on the EHPS pump. A cable with 13 volts and 400 amps available will sit for years and never get warm - until there's a current flow to cause heat. So - why would a connector get hot just sitting there? Makes no sense. If a circuit with no flow was a risk, then every battery connection in every car since the advent of batteries would be at risk. Amperage flow causing heat is the issue. No flow, no heat.
Why are these not burning up while you drive them?????????????????? THAT is when there's a massive draw by that pump, getting the connectors and wires warm.

So, can someone who is an experienced electrician explain how that can be wrong?
 

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The issue I have with these fires is that as there is no load at the cable when it's not running - power is there, but no flow to cause heat and melt things, the issue must begin while it's running and there's a draw on the EHPS pump. A cable with 13 volts and 400 amps available will sit for years and never get warm - until there's a current flow to cause heat. So - why would a connector get hot just sitting there? Makes no sense. If a circuit with no flow was a risk, then every battery connection in every car since the advent of batteries would be at risk. Amperage flow causing heat is the issue. No flow, no heat.
Why are these not burning up while you drive them?????????????????? THAT is when there's a massive draw by that pump, getting the connectors and wires warm.

So, can someone who is an experienced electrician explain how that can be wrong?
My understanding is there is a high resistance connection due to ham fisting the terminal- arcing and sparking eventually, like hovering the neg battery cable over the post and "light-switching" it.
 

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The issue I have with these fires is that as there is no load at the cable when it's not running - power is there, but no flow to cause heat and melt things, the issue must begin while it's running and there's a draw on the EHPS pump. A cable with 13 volts and 400 amps available will sit for years and never get warm - until there's a current flow to cause heat. So - why would a connector get hot just sitting there? Makes no sense. If a circuit with no flow was a risk, then every battery connection in every car since the advent of batteries would be at risk. Amperage flow causing heat is the issue. No flow, no heat.
Why are these not burning up while you drive them?????????????????? THAT is when there's a massive draw by that pump, getting the connectors and wires warm.

So, can someone who is an experienced electrician explain how that can be wrong?
An Electrical Short.
I haven’t read up on the PS fire issue. A connector could have an internal short. Oil seeping in could also cause a short.

Heat is usually the cause. Heat may create the opening for a short. Once cooled down the actual short is created.
 

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Mr._Bill

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Could i put a remote battery disconnect switch on the positive lead to the power steering pump to stop current and prevent a possible fire from overcurrent to the PSP? Your thoughts?
My thoughts are that it would be a waste of time and effort. The damage occurs while the truck is running, if the connector is not properly seated. A fire is most likely to happen shortly after the engine is shut off from a damaged connection that has been under load and is smoldering.

They investigated this for quite some time before issuing the recall. The fire warning is a liability limiter for Jeep. The number of vehicles that will actually get parts replacement from the recall is not likely to be very high.
 

ShadowsPapa

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My understanding is there is a high resistance connection due to ham fisting the terminal- arcing and sparking eventually, like hovering the neg battery cable over the post and "light-switching" it.
But with the pump off - there is no load, thus, no spark, no current flow and no heat.
High resistance means nothing without flow. Pump not running- no flow.


An Electrical Short.
I haven’t read up on the PS fire issue. A connector could have an internal short. Oil seeping in could also cause a short.

Heat is usually the cause. Heat may create the opening for a short. Once cooled down the actual short is created.
A short would be there any time - and a connector would have to "short to ground" - that's a short. And that means it's present even when driving.

I know all about electricity, connectors, wiring and more - from 220 AC to 5vdc and a short is always there, not only when there's a load.

No flow, no heat. No heat if it's not running.
Short would be there running or not meaning fire as you drive.
 

ShadowsPapa

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My thoughts are that it would be a waste of time and effort. The damage occurs while the truck is running, if the connector is not properly seated. A fire is most likely to happen shortly after the engine is shut off from a damaged connection that has been under load and is smoldering.

They investigated this for quite some time before issuing the recall. The fire warning is a liability limiter for Jeep. The number of vehicles that will actually get parts replacement from the recall is not likely to be very high.
How many thousands have been sold vs. the actual fires proven to be caused by that area..... few.
 

OldGriz

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Could i put a remote battery disconnect switch on the positive lead to the power steering pump to stop current and prevent a possible fire from overcurrent to the PSP? Your thoughts?
 

OldGriz

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But with the pump off - there is no load, thus, no spark, no current flow and no heat.
High resistance means nothing without flow. Pump not running- no flow.



A short would be there any time - and a connector would have to "short to ground" - that's a short. And that means it's present even when driving.

I know all about electricity, connectors, wiring and more - from 220 AC to 5vdc and a short is always there, not only when there's a load.

No flow, no heat. No heat if it's not running.
Short would be there running or not meaning fire as you drive.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks for the insight!!
 

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Thanks, Sharpsicle. I was possibly thinking about just puting two manual switches to each battery's positve lead. Without taking the passenger fender liner off, I am not sure what wire goes to the positve battery of the Aux Battery but I'm sure I would be able to tell if I take the inner fender off.
I’d take the fender off just to do that project. I’ve thought of doing the same. You can take the whole fender assembly off without messing with those plastic rivets.
 

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A battery tender sounds so much more straightforward and effective.
Not if the op also wants it disconnected for fire risks.
 

WILDHOBO

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The fact that we have to be worried about this is amazing to me. Jeep Don't Care.
Can’t argue that. They’ve known about this for years.
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