What did you do TO your Gladiator today? [ADMIN WARNING: NO POLITICS, NO GUN TALK]

[Jeeperjamie]

Installed my Badlands Apex Winch and absolutely love it. If I would of took my time I probably could of had it installed in about a hour or so, took 3 hours because I was being dumb. Also I bedlined my Fairlead, not recommend you do this. It looks ok now but I can see that it's going to rub off with use. I went ahead and ordered a rough country black one.

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[bastage]

Got the Fox Steering Stabilizer installed today.

 

[Veloruche]

Installed my Badlands Apex Winch and absolutely love it. If I would of took my time I probably could of had it installed in about a hour or so, took 3 hours because I was being dumb. Also I bedlined my Fairlead, not recommend you do this. It looks ok now but I can see that it's going to rub off with use. I went ahead and ordered a rough country black one.

Nice job, did you install the power switch or run straight to the battery?

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Nice job, did you install the power switch or run straight to the battery?

I installed the switch, figured it would peace of mind from it draining the battery. I didn't think route of the wires out to well though. I may redo them eventually. I went through the grill instead of under it which would be fine as long as I don't have to take my grill off anytime soon.

 

[ChicagoJeeper]

Got my tube doors and CMM mirrors put on for the first time and loving it!!

 

[Mark Doiron]

I installed the switch, figured it would peace of mind from it draining the battery. I didn't think route of the wires out to well though. I may redo them eventually. I went through the grill instead of under it which would be fine as long as I don't have to take my grill off anytime soon.

I ran my winch cables under the passenger side, bottom of the grill, up over the power steering pump (added additional insulation to prevent heat damage to cable), and then up between the battery tray and air box. Pull out the air box and it will be obvious how to run the cabling. I have dual-batteries now and was doing a test of new lights when I shot this pic (will make sense in a separate thread I'll post momentarily), so ignore that loose wiring.

I did trim the winch cables to be the proper length for my install. If you have a blow torch, that's actually a pretty easy task. You can buy the terminal lugs here (a local business for me). Insure you know both the cable wire gauge, and the diameter of the lug to which you're attaching. Also buy a solder pellet of the correct color (that's how they mark the amount of solder it delivers). Cut the cable (A bolt cutter works great), twist the end of the cable strands as tight as possible, insert the pellet into the lug, hit it with the blow torch for about 15 seconds (don't tip it over now!), insert the cable into the hot solder, hold for a few seconds until the solder hardens. Cover in shrink wrap to hide any sins (a few strands may escape to the sides). Easy-peasy and makes for a much neater install.

https://spectrowireandcable.com/c/battery-lugs/mega-lugs/

 

[Mark Doiron]

Began install of my KC LZR lights. That's what I decided on after some initial fitment tests earlier this year to determine interference with the winch hoop and with the trail camera. For completeness, here are those original shots ...

And before anyone asks ...

I bought four of the LZR lights. I chose these because they are IPF 68 rated, which is important to me since I do occasionally deep water fords. And they are round. Jeeps have round lights. Period.

These are exceptionally well-made lights; I'm definitely impressed (That's an honest opinion. I bought and paid for them just like you would have). But the wiring harness, which I would have opted out of, is designed for something the size of a semi. Way too much cabling and I don't care for the plastic loom. So, I spent yesterday salvaging the few parts off it that I need--basically the four connectors and pigtails that attach to the individual light connectors. I'll be attaching to an aux switch, so no need for the push button (which is a nice one). I also don't like the 20-amp fuse for 4-amps worth of hardware. I'll replace the associated aux switch fuse with a 10-ampere (for four lights at 2-amps each).

First task was cutting up the wiring harness ...

Removing the wires from the old loom, and save both for other projects.

Removed air box and ran a piece of the loom to get a rough idea of how long to make the new primary power lines (from the battery to the bifurcation for the individual light assemblies) ...

Measuring the light spacing. This insures they will fit two of the existing holes in the OEM steel bumper, and have clearance for two new holes to fit a total of four lights. This also tells me how much length I need of each bifurcated cable to an individual light (which is the only part of the original KC harness I'll use for this project) ...

Cutting the four different length cables to each light assembly. Again, this is the only part of the KC harness that I need ...

Installing each of the four wire assemblies into stretchable wire loom (more attractive and smaller diameter than the plastic KC loom) ...

Soldering the cable bifurcation. One heavier gauge wire splits to four smaller gauges, one for each light. Done twice, once for positive, once for negative power ...

For the main line to the battery, I'm using a high temperature, split fabric loom. I want high temp because it will run near the radiator and about an inch above the power steering pump. This is the same material used by Jeep throughout the engine bay. This is expensive stuff (about a buck a foot, depending on size), and more durable than that cheap, plastic loom that is falling apart in my JK. Subtle things like this help explain why the newer models Jeeps are more expensive than the older ones ...

I put several layers of heat shrink to separate the positive and negative wires, then added one large heat shrink over the top of all of it. The heat shrink I use has a sealer in it to help protect the joints from moisture ...

Routed cabling around passenger side of radiator, over power steering pump, and up side of the Genesis dual-battery tray. Aux wire pigtails are located right there. It was getting hot out and I decided to wait until tomorrow to finish the install. But, I did connect up the wires and lights to ensure the harness and lights actually do work ...

... and they do!

Tomorrow, attach harness to aux switch pigtails, remove winch hoop (permanently--fitting is too close and it really doesn't do much anyway), drill bumper (arrows above show existing holes I'll use for two of the lights) and mount the lights. Small concern for the drilling is keeping metal shavings off of the synthetic winch line. Unlike the Warn PowerPlant on my JK, which uses a small screw to hold it in place, this winch has a key inserted into a slot and it isn't possible to remove without pulling the bumper off. I guess Warn figured that was a good idea to protect against those of us who might let out too much winch line.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I ran my winch cables under the passenger side, bottom of the grill, up over the power steering pump (added additional insulation to prevent heat damage to cable), and then up between the battery tray and air box. Pull out the air box and it will be obvious how to run the cabling. I have dual-batteries now and was doing a test of new lights when I shot this pic (will make sense in a separate thread I'll post momentarily), so ignore that loose wiring.

I did trim the winch cables to be the proper length for my install. If you have a blow torch, that's actually a pretty easy task. You can buy the terminal lugs here (a local business for me). Insure you know both the cable wire gauge, and the diameter of the lug to which you're attaching. Also buy a solder pellet of the correct color (that's how they mark the amount of solder it delivers). Cut the cable (A bolt cutter works great), twist the end of the cable strands as tight as possible, insert the pellet into the lug, hit it with the blow torch for about 15 seconds (don't tip it over now!), insert the cable into the hot solder, hold for a few seconds until the solder hardens. Cover in shrink wrap to hide any sins (a few strands may escape to the sides). Easy-peasy and makes for a much neater install.

https://spectrowireandcable.com/c/battery-lugs/mega-lugs/

That's pretty much the route I went except I went through the grill, then down and up. I may pull it lose and redo it and go under the grill. They left a good place to route the wires though. I haven't mount the switch yet, just zip tied it in for now. I may or may not end up mounting it. I got some 4.5" led cannons coming in the next week or so and I'll figure out all the mounting then and knock it out all at once.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Began install of my KC LZR lights. That's what I decided on after some initial fitment tests earlier this year to determine interference with the winch hoop and with the trail camera. For completeness, here are those original shots ...

And before anyone asks ...

I bought four of the LZR lights. I chose these because they are IPF 68 rated, which is important to me since I do occasionally deep water fords. And they are round. Jeeps have round lights. Period.

These are exceptionally well-made lights; I'm definitely impressed (That's an honest opinion. I bought and paid for them just like you would have). But the wiring harness, which I would have opted out of, is designed for something the size of a semi. Way too much cabling and I don't care for the plastic loom. So, I spent yesterday salvaging the few parts off it that I need--basically the four connectors and pigtails that attach to the individual light connectors. I'll be attaching to an aux switch, so no need for the push button (which is a nice one). I also don't like the 20-amp fuse for 4-amps worth of hardware. I'll replace the associated aux switch fuse with a 10-ampere (for four lights at 2-amps each).

First task was cutting up the wiring harness ...

Removing the wires from the old loom, and save both for other projects.

Removed air box and ran a piece of the loom to get a rough idea of how long to make the new primary power lines (from the battery to the bifurcation for the individual light assemblies) ...

Measuring the light spacing. This insures they will fit two of the existing holes in the OEM steel bumper, and have clearance for two new holes to fit a total of four lights. This also tells me how much length I need of each bifurcated cable to an individual light (which is the only part of the original KC harness I'll use for this project) ...

Cutting the four different length cables to each light assembly. Again, this is the only part of the KC harness that I need ...

Installing each of the four wire assemblies into stretchable wire loom (more attractive and smaller diameter than the plastic KC loom) ...

Soldering the cable bifurcation. One heavier gauge wire splits to four smaller gauges, one for each light. Done twice, once for positive, once for negative power ...

For the main line to the battery, I'm using a high temperature, split fabric loom. I want high temp because it will run near the radiator and about an inch above the power steering pump. This is the same material used by Jeep throughout the engine bay. This is expensive stuff (about a buck a foot, depending on size), and more durable than that cheap, plastic loom that is falling apart in my JK. Subtle things like this help explain why the newer models Jeeps are more expensive than the older ones ...

I put several layers of heat shrink to separate the positive and negative wires, then added one large heat shrink over the top of all of it. The heat shrink I use has a sealer in it to help protect the joints from moisture ...

Routed cabling around passenger side of radiator, over power steering pump, and up side of the Genesis dual-battery tray. Aux wire pigtails are located right there. It was getting hot out and I decided to wait until tomorrow to finish the install. But, I did connect up the wires and lights to ensure the harness and lights actually do work ...

... and they do!

Tomorrow, attach harness to aux switch pigtails, remove winch hoop (permanently--fitting is too close and it really doesn't do much anyway), drill bumper (arrows above show existing holes I'll use for two of the lights) and mount the lights. Small concern for the drilling is keeping metal shavings off of the synthetic winch line. Unlike the Warn PowerPlant on my JK, which uses a small screw to hold it in place, this winch has a key inserted into a slot and it isn't possible to remove without pulling the bumper off. I guess Warn figured that was a good idea to protect against those of us who might let out too much winch line.

That is impressive, I feel like I should have spent more time on mine now. Well done Boss!!!

 

[Jeepnoob34]

Blacked out the key holes with plastidip. First time using it. I was impatient with the coats. I will redo it at somepoint.

Looks nice, but are you wearing crocks? Haven’t seen those in ages. Haha

 

[Jeepnoob34]

Pixel decal came in today. I think I’ve accomplished the goal of breaking up all the red:

Before:

After (plasti dipped locks & hinge covers, side vent vinyl) :

I am probably gonna do the hinge covers also. My right rear door already has a chip on the hinge. I assume from a rock cause I’ve only had the back doors off once

 

[Jeepnoob34]

Today the insert and Wednesday was the decals.

I should’ve been a firefighter. If I put the blue line insert on mine, I’d probably find it destroyed lol.

 

[TTEChris]

I had an extra KC cyclone light from when I installed my rocklights. Decided to mount it as a under hood light and it works great!

 

[Mopar King]

Looks nice, but are you wearing crocks? Haven’t seen those in ages. Haha

Must be an age thing maybe?......All I wear around the house is crocks.....super comfortable.

 

[HikerBob]

Mark is “JT Einstein”. Just take a look at this shot and given the directions he posted he’s earned it. Nice job!

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