There is no debate, go 4.88 gears (my review)

[dhurley737]

My perspective:
Every single time I have done something with a car / house / bike / etc and have had an internal debate "x" or "x+1", I have never been satisfied with "x" and almost always regretted not going "x+1" from the start (and often ended up going there regardless effectively paying for it twice).
Most folks seem to run 37's. If you have a Rubicon with a decent lift you can EASILY run 38's. When you know this, you'll debate upgrading the 38's as the 37's wear... and possibly even go 38's out of the gate.
I just cut the middle out with great advice from a friend. Went 38's from the start and threw 5.38's in. I have absolutely ZERO regrets... it drives perfect, feels like it has plenty of power, tracks well, and I never have an ounce of FOMO. If I want to tow, I got it. If I just want to drive, I got it.
Don't mean to hijack the thread but I'd have SERIOUS regrets if I had gone to just 4.88's. I remember back in the day I went from 3.55's on a stock XJ (stock wheels & gears) to 4.56's with 31"s. Had zero regrets. If you're not going a full point why bother.

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[Silvertruck]

Yeah man no hijack I think making different combos is what makes jeeping cool. For those that remember, this topic reminds me of the old h pipe or x pipe debate with fox body mustangs...back when the fox was the late model.

5.38’s would be too agressive for my driving style or anything needed off road. I think your choice is cool and probably pushes the limit of what is possible with a dana 44. I bet it gets it done offroad. Any concerns on the smaller pinion head pushing all that jeep down the road?

 

[AdrianVall]

I am having a serious debate internally on whether to go 4.88 or 5.13's. I really can't decide. i see threads like this and think 488 is fine, but then see people posting that 5.13's is really the best. I don't know what to do! I'm also on 37's.

 

[Phljeeper]

I am having a serious debate internally on whether to go 4.88 or 5.13's. I really can't decide. i see threads like this and think 488 is fine, but then see people posting that 5.13's is really the best. I don't know what to do! I'm also on 37's.

I am sure based on lots of feedback that either route will work and solve the issue. Some say the 5.13 is not as strong as the 4.88 in a Dana 44 but not sure I have the technical gearing skillset to provide feedback to validate or explain why. What I do know is that I went 4.88 and am very happy with the gearing. The goal is to get factory or better use of the full set of transmission speeds which with stock gearing I rarely got into 8th gear on the highway and now am in 8th gear at 40 mph and above. In my personal experience I would think the 5.13 would be better if you live in the mountains or if you dont travel highway speeds often. But in reality the rpm difference between 4.88 and 5.13 at 70 mph is minimal.

 

[salvino]

I am having a serious debate internally on whether to go 4.88 or 5.13's. I really can't decide. i see threads like this and think 488 is fine, but then see people posting that 5.13's is really the best. I don't know what to do! I'm also on 37's.

I’ve been running 4:88s for several months now. During that time I have towed a small off-road trailer weighing about 1,500 pounds from the PNW to Moab and wheeled in the Washington mountains, with and without the trailer. I couldn’t be happier with the gears. I’m running KO2 37s and I have all my gears back. Without the trailer I’m getting over 17 mpg (at moderate speeds 65-70 top) on the highway. From what Iv’e heard and read either will work though.

 

[camodog]

I sent an email to a local shop, they said to run 5.13 and for parts and labor it would be $2350!
seems high to me.

 

[FLUndertaker]

I sent an email to a local shop, they said to run 5.13 and for parts and labor it would be $2350!
seems high to me.

My local shop is $2100 OTD for JT and JL but only $1550 for JK. Not sure why the big difference. Assuming it’s in the parts since the labor should be the same, right?

 

[Phljeeper]

I paid $2,100 in central PA. Seems reasonable for what I have seen in most areas. They claimed the parts (gears, gasket, oil) was $1000.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

https://rebeloffroad.com/regearmyjeep/

 

[camodog]

https://rebeloffroad.com/regearmyjeep/

how good are those revolution gears? Not trying to be a d***, just curious. I am new to the gear game.
I have a friend in southern cali, I may need to schedule a road trip to see him at those prices

compared to spicer or nitro that is.

 

[TheSolarWizard]

I don’t have experience but I do know some clients from rebel who says they live up to their stellar reputation. If that’s the case I’d expect these gears to be good quality.

that being said I bet if you call them there’s an option to get another gear for the delta in price

 

[Phljeeper]

My shop uses Revolution gears and has had a great experience with them. They switched from Yukon as their gear of choice to Revolution and said it was due to more consistent quality. No idea how accurate that is but its what they said. So far so good with about 8k miles on my Revolution 4.88s and no issues. They have been through the Uwharrie Jeep Jamboree on the hardest trail options (Dirty D's), blue and black trails at Rausch Creek and pulled my 5k lb camper so far.

 

[Silvertruck]

About $2000 here parts and labor using dana spicer ring and pinions (4.88).

highly recommended. This is definitely not a mod you want to give to the low cost provider to do. Done wrong it can be a real expensive headache to fix. Ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure on this one.

 

[WK2JT]

I am sure based on lots of feedback that either route will work and solve the issue. Some say the 5.13 is not as strong as the 4.88 in a Dana 44 but not sure I have the technical gearing skillset to provide feedback to validate or explain why. What I do know is that I went 4.88 and am very happy with the gearing. The goal is to get factory or better use of the full set of transmission speeds which with stock gearing I rarely got into 8th gear on the highway and now am in 8th gear at 40 mph and above. In my personal experience I would think the 5.13 would be better if you live in the mountains or if you dont travel highway speeds often. But in reality the rpm difference between 4.88 and 5.13 at 70 mph is minimal.

This... it’s 5% difference between the two... go as deep as you’re comfortable. I debated this for months and ultimately went 5.13 because I’m in Denver now and will be towing some.

What this thing could really use is a transmission tune. Even with 5.13’s it wants to lug 1,200-1,500 RPM. I’m sure that was to eek out every last bit of MPG, but it’s a bit annoying.

 

[wanderer]

I am sure based on lots of feedback that either route will work and solve the issue. Some say the 5.13 is not as strong as the 4.88 in a Dana 44 but not sure I have the technical gearing skillset to provide feedback to validate or explain why. What I do know is that I went 4.88 and am very happy with the gearing. The goal is to get factory or better use of the full set of transmission speeds which with stock gearing I rarely got into 8th gear on the highway and now am in 8th gear at 40 mph and above. In my personal experience I would think the 5.13 would be better if you live in the mountains or if you dont travel highway speeds often. But in reality the rpm difference between 4.88 and 5.13 at 70 mph is minimal.

It is because the gear teeth are thinner More teeth

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