6,500 miles oil life still 32%

[ShadowsPapa]

Interesting bit on the recent new standards for oil - note what one of the things covered is -


The first license date for the new API SP/ILSAC GF6 standards was May 1, 2020. Of course the supply pipeline was chock full of motor oils with the previous standards. And those older oils would need to be used up before the new oils start showing up. So, most people would not find those new API SP/ILSAC GF6 oils on their local Auto Parts Stores shelves for many months after that.

API stands for American Petroleum Institute
ILSAC stands for International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee

API SP is the new motor oil standard for improvements regarding timing chain wear, low speed pre-ignition (LSPI), and deposits. API SP is backward compatible with earlier API standards. API SP is the foundation for the new ILSAC GF-6 specification, but API SP does NOT include fuel economy. API SP is available for all motor oil viscosities from 0W-16 to 20W-50.

GF-6 is the newest ILSAC standard for passenger cars, which will replace the current ILSAC GF-5 standard.

Motor oils meeting the new ILSAC standard will have to pass new tests regarding oxidation, deposits, sludge, varnish, fuel economy, corrosion, timing chain wear, and low speed pre-ignition (LSPI).

There will be a split between GF-6 standards. GF-6A will represent SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosities, and is backward compatible with earlier ILSAC standards.

But, 0W-16 viscosity will be represented by GF-6B, and is NOT backward compatible.

Motor oils meeting the new API SP/ILSAC GF6 standards will be clearly marked on the back of the bottle.

Sponsored

 

[Kevin_D]

With mostly Highway/freeway driving, my oil life monitor reaches zero at 10,000 miles (only went that far once.)
I’ve used two of my Jeep Wave oil changes, and done the rest myself, with Pennzoil or Napa synthetic oil and Napa Gold filters. No odd smells or textures.
It did take some getting used to running oil that far past 3,000 miles…

Kevin

 

[Mr._Bill]

The Pennzoil was previously recommended purely because of some long running beef between Mopar and Mobil. Same reason the Mobil 1 did not carry the MS -6395 approval until the last year or two....but does now.

Doesn't matter the reasons why, it's one that is recommended. You take a risk using an oil that is not approved, even if it meets the specifications or is a better oil. If you do your own oil changes, and have a engine problem, a nasty dealer could try to deny warranty coverage if you can't show you've been using an approved oil on the recommended schedule. The Jeep Wave changes, that come with every new Gladiator, carry it through a large part of the warranty period when following the oil life monitor. Many will renew or continue using the Dealer, simply for the convenience. Jeeps financial concern is only getting the vehicle through the warranty period without a failure. The owner is more likely to get the maintenance done if the cost is covered, which helps to reduce warranty claims and the associated cost.

 

[sdk131]

Doesn't matter the reasons why, it's one that is recommended. You take a risk using an oil that is not approved, even if it meets the specifications or is a better oil. If you do your own oil changes, and have a engine problem, a nasty dealer could try to deny warranty coverage if you can't show you've been using an approved oil on the recommended schedule. The Jeep Wave changes, that come with every new Gladiator, carry it through a large part of the warranty period when following the oil life monitor. Many will renew or continue using the Dealer, simply for the convenience. Jeeps financial concern is only getting the vehicle through the warranty period without a failure. The owner is more likely to get the maintenance done if the cost is covered, which helps to reduce warranty claims and the associated cost.

LOL oil discussions always bring out this sort of rhetoric of a warranty being denied. I will sleep just fine at night using the Mobil 1 Extended Performance that meets the MS-6395 spec. My engine doesn't know whether I pour in Pennzoil or Mobil 1 of the proper spec and viscosity. But if you feel that you are required to use Pennzoil that's of course your call. I also sleep much better knowing that the oil change jockeys at the dealership will never touch my engine. There is far more risk of them causing an issue than the Mobil 1 I use at home to do my oil changes.

 

[Mr._Bill]

LOL oil discussions always bring out this sort of rhetoric of a warranty being denied. I will sleep just fine at night using the Mobil 1 Extended Performance that meets the MS-6395 spec. My engine doesn't know whether I pour in Pennzoil or Mobil 1 of the proper spec and viscosity. But if you feel that you are required to use Pennzoil that's of course your call. I also sleep much better knowing that the oil change jockeys at the dealership will never touch my engine. There is far more risk of them causing an issue than the Mobil 1 I use at home to do my oil changes.

The engine doesn't care about the brand, but Jeep or the Dealer may. It gets brought up, because it is a possibility.

I must have a better Dealer than is available to everyone else. They have done six oil changes with no problems. The oil level is always correct, there is no mess under the hood, and the service is done within two hours, while I wait without having to make an appointment in advance. As for oil brand, I have used mainly Pennzoil over the last 40 years, except for the Duramax which got Shell Rotella.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The engine doesn't care about the brand, but Jeep or the Dealer may. It gets brought up, because it is a possibility.

I must have a better Dealer than is available to everyone else. They have done six oil changes with no problems. The oil level is always correct, there is no mess under the hood, and the service is done within two hours, while I wait without having to make an appointment in advance. As for oil brand, I have used mainly Pennzoil over the last 40 years, except for the Duramax which got Shell Rotella.

Same here - they've done oil changes on my wife's Jeeps for decades and now they've done my wave changes. I can make 50 bucks in the time it takes to do the oil change (full cycle - meaning buy, change, clean up and put tools away and dispose of the oil properly)
Only one problem one time (first time) - they put in 6 quarts. I was back in for something and pointed it out, including a copy of the MOPAR communication, and instead of just pulling out a quart, they did the whole thing over again.
They also now do a video showing what they've done, especially details about brake life left, looking for leaks, etc.
They also top off fluids, which these days saves having to buy more fluids. When the PS fluid was low after having the steering gear changed (air finally worked out of the system), the service writer went in and got a bottle and topped it off and gave me the bottle (no charge)

I choose oil based on factory recommendations tempered with my own research (NOT FAKEBOOK!) from engineers (NOT THE FORUMS on BOB IS THE OIL GUY - what a crock)

People are so hateful and angry these days..........

 

[jay21mojave]

I'll jump in with this info from a FCA Tech Manager, (not a dealership employee).. He is a neighbor

When I asked what came from the factory.. Your vehicle takes 0w-20. MS-6395 standard. 68217950ab.

Mopar® 0w-20 Full Synthetic Rating API SN Energy Conserving, ILSAC GF-5
Specially developed with FCA US engineering, this product exceeds requirements for API Certified SN Engine Oils.

 

[Spur]

Same here - they've done oil changes on my wife's Jeeps for decades and now they've done my wave changes. I can make 50 bucks in the time it takes to do the oil change (full cycle - meaning buy, change, clean up and put tools away and dispose of the oil properly)
Only one problem one time (first time) - they put in 6 quarts. I was back in for something and pointed it out, including a copy of the MOPAR communication, and instead of just pulling out a quart, they did the whole thing over again.
They also now do a video showing what they've done, especially details about brake life left, looking for leaks, etc.
They also top off fluids, which these days saves having to buy more fluids. When the PS fluid was low after having the steering gear changed (air finally worked out of the system), the service writer went in and got a bottle and topped it off and gave me the bottle (no charge)

I choose oil based on factory recommendations tempered with my own research (NOT FAKEBOOK!) from engineers (NOT THE FORUMS on BOB IS THE OIL GUY - what a crock)

People are so hateful and angry these days..........

Interesting, since your last statement doesn’t quite jive with your angry and condescending statements above.

I think my engineering background allows me to make reasonably informed decisions.

BITOG is an open forum and therefore has some crackpots on it. But, if you know science and engineering, there are some very knowledgeable folks there that actually work in the lubrication industry. You just have to be smart enough to know who they are.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

With a modern gas engine, you're wasting money if you dump the oil at 3,000-5,000 miles. There has been a ton of oil analysis that has shown these synthetic oils are just getting broken in at 5k. You can easily use the oil life monitor in the gauge cluster for those engines.

With the diesels, you need to be changing more frequently. The manual says to never surpass 10,000 miles but most data you'll see makes it pretty obvious that you really should be looking at 7,500 miles or less. I've had two of these diesels and both would get down to 5% oil life remaining prior to 8,000 miles which is pretty accurate. There's just too much soot and fuel in the oil on a diesel to run long intervals. Gas engines don't have that issue.

Not just because of the modern gas engine (although yes, that's a major player in extended life) but the oils themselves are superior to the oils of the 80s and 90s.
(no need for BS additives that some STILL insist is needed, no need for extreme levels of ZDDP, etc. because modern additives have done a better job)
And I'm referring mainly to the additive packages as far as improved oils. Oils today can better control deposits, better handle heat, and handle pressures with less wear - and the new spec out in 2020 actually defines resistance to causing, as they put it "pre-ignition" but I view it as detonation as pre-ignition means the charge is ignited PRIOR to the spark. In any case - the new SP (hope I have that correct) is supposed to resist causing engine ping if entered into the combustion chamber.

A modern gas engine doesn't flood the chamber with over-rich mixtures, there is better control over the shape and finish of the cylinder walls, ring shape and materials is much better - all allowing less contamination to slip into the combustion chamber through less "blow by", valve stems don't allow oil in as old engine designs, the mixture is more completely burned so you don't have contaminations from hydrocarbons from the chamber getting into the oil.

Diesels may put less out the tail pipe these days, but it's still there in the combustion chambers and some still gets into the crankcase. They simply clean it up after the exhaust stroke shoves it out of the cylinder.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'll jump in with this info from a FCA Tech Manager, (not a dealership employee).. He is a neighbor

When I asked what came from the factory.. Your vehicle takes 0w-20. MS-6395 standard. 68217950ab.

Mopar® 0w-20 Full Synthetic Rating API SN Energy Conserving, ILSAC GF-5
Specially developed with FCA US engineering, this product exceeds requirements for API Certified SN Engine Oils.

Any input on the new ILSAC GF-6 spec and API SP?

 

[jay21mojave]

Any input on the new ILSAC GF-6 spec and API SP?

Here is the site from Kendall: https://kendallmotoroil.com/news/ev...cient viscosity,API SN PLUS, SN, SM, SL or SJ.

 

[Spur]

https://pqia.org/resource-center/

 

[heftysmurf]

why is the main reason that you went with penzoil coming from mobil one cause im in the same stage,ive always ran with mobil one but i kinda want to try something different with my new ecodiesel,was thinking on going with either Valvoline or penzoil,maybe even amsoil since many use it.....but i dont know

Honestly, it's been so long I can't remember. I THINK if I recall, Mobil 1 didn't have whatever flavor of certification required by the manufacturer of vehicle I was driving at the time.

 

[iammacey]

Oil discussions are always fun. I remember the extended service intervals introduced by BMW in the early 2000s with synthetic oil being factory fill and the debate still rages 20 years later. In that world, everyone thought it was crazy and now virtually every manufacturer has extended intervals with synthetic.

In average driving it's 100 miles = 1% for the Oil Life monitor. As stated by others, this changes with extremes. I towed on Saturday and it was 50 miles = 1%.

Regardless, I watch the Oil Life Remaining and change at 50%. Because I can. And I want to. Same with the Fiesta unless I've done track days, then I change earlier. The oil temps get extremely high, so no reason to risk it. The GT4 gets changed annually because low mileage.

All of them, and the bikes, get Motul. And I just received my Blackstone Labs kits so I can send the Fiesta oil in for analysis.

I'm confident I could extend intervals, but it's what I choose to do and if I go a little long, no big deal.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Here is the site from Kendall: https://kendallmotoroil.com/news/everything-you-need-to-know-about-gf-6-and-api-sp-motor-oil-standards/#:~:text=ILSAC GF-6 applies to the fuel efficient viscosity,API SN PLUS, SN, SM, SL or SJ.

Thanks - was wondering if any vehicle manufacturers - such as Jeep - have this in their future, or what they say about it in general. Since most of the new standards are backwards compatible, there won't be a problem using it in vehicles made 2021 or before.

Sponsored