Your gladiator after a year or two in the rust belt

[ko15870]

Ziebart has 2 different coatings to say. One is an undercoat, which they just spray under the vehicle. The other is a rust proof, which they spray everywhere. You have to take the vehicle back every year for inspection and touch up. This is with both coatings.

My JTRD, I had Ziebart undercoat a week after I picked it up. My '08 Power Wagon was undercoated too. I didn't take it back every year like I should have. It got a rust hole on the driver's side, rocker panel under the seat. That area had all of the undercoating blasted off by the rocks kicked up by the front tire. It was bare metal almost.

My '99 Dodge 1500 4x4 shortbed is still running around with no rust on it. Not a straight piece of sheet metal on thanks to a meth head.

I haven't seen too complaints on Ziebart undercoating. But a lot on their rusting proofing. Mostly before 2000.

I got my Gladiator and Cherokee undercoated. I would recommend that to anyone. Just be sure to take it back yearly to get it checked. Each time I have taken my Cherokee back they have resprayed the whole underneath not just touch up.

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[chorky]

I got my Gladiator and Cherokee undercoated. I would recommend that to anyone. Just be sure to take it back yearly to get it checked. Each time I have taken my Cherokee back they have resprayed the whole underneath not just touch up.

thats not an option in my area. Nobody wihin several hundred miles will undercoat. So I am looking for diy options

 

[seanmh72]

wow man that looks stellar considering its already gone through a winter. I'm truly shocked how well that held up. I can only hope to do a good job and have mine looking that good next year.

I'm thinking of washing everything with a low pressure wash and doing another treatment of HD metal protect... I just got 3 more cans in the mail yesterday...

How is the 3M stuff different? Also - what skid is that you have? I really dont like how the super small oil pan is so exposed.



True. However. Considering how expensive these vehicles are, especially for those of us who aren't millionaires - it is extremely irritating that the DOT knowingly destroys them (and causes environmental harm) all because impatient people feel the need to drive too fast in the middle of winter.

I say let those dummies run themselves off the road and leave the roads be... plowing and sand is one thing. salt is pure garbage and you'll never change my mind on that. Not to mention the damage to the road surface itself - causing higher taxes. Everyone knows darn well that if any of us purposefully caused damage to a roadway we would be in deep s$!t. But the DOT can do whatever they want and claim 'safety' when in reality it causes even a bigger safety problem because then you have people flat out expecting roads to be perfect and capable of 90mph. Maybe they should be paying all of us for vehicle damages. I will forever complain about salt on roadways. ?

Forgot that people are FORCED to live in a specific region, my bad….

 

[jac04]

how many cans did you need and did you do a single or double coat?

also curious how it works being sprayed over (yes, yes i know) some dirt. I imagine getting the inside of the frame cleaned completely even though it has under 500 miles would be difficult. Its too cold to pressure wash the inside of the frame it could take 2 weeks for any water to dry out.

I did 2 heavy coats (and probably 3 in some areas). The spray cans are big. I bought 2 cans and have some left over. So I would get 2 cans minimum. If you think that you are really going to apply it heavy, get 3 cans.

Here's a tip: Wrap some blue painter's tape around the spray wands about 3" from the tip. That way, you know when to stop spraying as you pull the wand out. The spray comes out 360 degrees with quite a bit of energy. If you pull the wand all the way out while spraying you will make a big mess. As it is, you will make some mess as the spray comes out of various holes in the frame as you are spraying.

I wouldn't worry too much about dirt in the frame if you haven't been through any mud. I used a rubber hose on my air compressor to try to blow out any loose stuff, but that was it. Anything inside the frame will just end up encapsulated in the wax.

 

[chorky]

I did 2 heavy coats (and probably 3 in some areas). The spray cans are big. I bought 2 cans and have some left over. So I would get 2 cans minimum. If you think that you are really going to apply it heavy, get 3 cans.

Here's a tip: Wrap some blue painter's tape around the spray wands about 3" from the tip. That way, you know when to stop spraying as you pull the wand out. The spray comes out 360 degrees with quite a bit of energy. If you pull the wand all the way out while spraying you will make a big mess. As it is, you will make some mess as the spray comes out of various holes in the frame as you are spraying.

I wouldn't worry too much about dirt in the frame if you haven't been through any mud. I used a rubber hose on my air compressor to try to blow out any loose stuff, but that was it. Anything inside the frame will just end up encapsulated in the wax.

So I did a bunch of reading and video watching and figured cavity wax stuff is actually exactly what I was looking for. my original plan was to use the HD metal protect on the inside of the frame but after watching a bunch of body work and rebuilders talk about cavity wax as a primary product to use when rebuilding bodies for corrosion resistance I saw how good of a product it is. Nothing is perfect of course. So I just placed an order for a kit that came with 4 cans and the wand extensions.

Going to hit up the car wash and lightly (not using pressure) spray down the frame as it got dirty from rain a few days ago. Let it dry, then I will probably take advantage and do 3 solid coats, let it dry for a few hours or maybe 24, and then do 2 or 3 more coats until I run out of product. I will follow up with another 2 coats of HD metal protect. That should be a solid foundation going into summer, an then of course might re-apply before winter.

The questions I need to decide on are:

• Should I just re-spray more HD metal protect in fall?
• should I top it off with some fluid film now that I have 6 cans in the basement?
• does the 3M cavity wax need to be re-applied yearly? or is it basically good for a few years?

Obviously I want protection - at the cost this sorta needs to be a 20 year vehicle - not to mention the recent government restriction of 40mpg for all vehicles by 2026 - so I doubt there will be any good jeeps for a good many years... Don't want this one to fall apart too soon, plus, its just flat out expensive.

I do have an extended warranty also until 135K miles - so it would be good to last at least until then.


Now I just need to find a solution for the exterior paint...

 

[jac04]

The questions I need to decide on are:

• Should I just re-spray more HD metal protect in fall?
• should I top it off with some fluid film now that I have 6 cans in the basement?
• does the 3M cavity wax need to be re-applied yearly? or is it basically good for a few years?

Take a look at where you have already sprayed the HD Metal Protector and see how it is holding up, especially in any areas that see impingement from the tires. Re-apply as necessary. I think summer is a good time to apply because it is easier to spray and it sets up quicker in warmer temperatures.

IMO, stay far away from Fluid Film. You have chosen a good path, just stick with it. FF will make everything a mess (and it will likely soften any HDMP, making it less effective). I used it on the inside of the frame on my 2014 JK when it was new, and it is still creeping out of the holes in the frame.

I see no signs of the 3M Cavity Wax degrading on the internal frame surfaces. As long as it isn't disturbed, it should last a long time. I'm not planning any re-application any time soon.

 

[chorky]

HDMP, making it less effective). I used it on the inside of the frame on my 2014 JK when it was new, and it is still creeping

I just applied the HD metal protect last weekend so it hasn't been on for a week yet. but I would like at least another layer, I just did a pretty thick single coat. and included the body underside as well.

But I might want to scrape it off in some areas to use rust converter on a couple super small spots where the factory paint flaked off - mostly on welds. Not sure if that's need though, it would add a lot of extra work I think.

 

[jac04]

Unless those small flakes bother you, I would just leave them protected by the HDMP. You're right - it's a PITA to remove the HDMP and get those flaked areas clean enough to paint.

 

[chorky]

I think summer is a good time to apply because it is easier to spray and it sets up quicker in warmer temperatures.

my box came in yesterday. I read the labels saw no mention of temperatures for applications. Its currently cold here for the next couple weeks. teens at night. Low 40’s during the day. I am wanting to apply sooner than later as it has me not doing things I sorta need to to minimize dirt in the frame until I can get it coated.

would low temps at night be a problem for applying it this week before having to drive in the rain this weekend? I do need to hose down the fram to get some dust and dirt off. So no doubt some water will get inside the frame.

 

[jac04]

my box came in yesterday. I read the labels saw no mention of temperatures for applications.

I just looked at all the online resources on the 3M web site and didn't find anything either regarding application temperature. Another similar product (Inner Cavity Wax, Brown) states "Best results are obtained when material is stored and applied at room temperature, 5 to 30°C." 5C = 41F, so I think you are OK applying it during the day and then having a day or 2 before rain.

 

[chorky]

I just looked at all the online resources on the 3M web site and didn't find anything either regarding application temperature. Another similar product (Inner Cavity Wax, Brown) states "Best results are obtained when material is stored and applied at room temperature, 5 to 30°C." 5C = 41F, so I think you are OK applying it during the day and then having a day or 2 before rain.

I was thinking the same. Going to plan on rinsing down the frame and underbody tomorrow and applying friday or saturday depending on weather. Going to make sure its at least 40 outside before applying but it will dip to the teens at night. Hopefully it sticks Because I kinda need to be using it despite rain and continued snow.

 

[jac04]

You should be fine. You'll see once you start spraying - I can't image it not sticking. Probably keep the cans inside to keep them warm to help with spraying.

 

[Mac]

Was watching Graveyard cars last night, they were singing the praises of 3M cavity wax, they use it on the inside of all the cars they restore, thought that was pretty cool.

 

[GA D90]

Sounds like we have similar plan.
I applied Amsoil Metal Protector HD a week after I got my JT Sept of 20. Two NH winters, daily driver, Zero rust. I sprayed HD on ever exposed surface I could get to under the truck, then Woolwax inside ever hole and seam I could get in to. Touched up the exposed surfaces with HD last fall... so far so good!

 

[chorky]

Sounds like we have similar plan.
I applied Amsoil Metal Protector HD a week after I got my JT Sept of 20. Two NH winters, daily driver, Zero rust. I sprayed HD on ever exposed surface I could get to under the truck, then Woolwax inside ever hole and seam I could get in to. Touched up the exposed surfaces with HD last fall... so far so good!

during your touch up did you just rinse off the frame and spray? I did that yesterday (of course then it snowed today) and a lot of the surface dirt attached to the HD metal protect. I dont really want to high pressure wash it off since its a good thick layer already but spraying more HD metal protect over top of a thin layer of dirt just doesn't seem like a super great idea. Maybe I'm making too big of a deal out of it.


Hoping to get the cavity wax in it this weekend if the darn weather gets a tad nicer. Really dont want much more dirt/water inside the frame before treating it but can't keep waiting forever.

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