‘21 JTRD TugBoat/Pretty Princess Build

[Elff]

Do you have pictures of those flares from the front and maybe a front 45 degree angle?

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[NCJL]

Do you still have the Dana 44's in it?

No

 

[NCJL]

Do you have pictures of those flares from the front and maybe a front 45 degree angle?

Pics added to OP.

 

[Elff]

Thanks

Those looks awesome.

 

[NCJL]

Thanks

Those looks awesome.

Welcome.
Hopefully BushWacker comes out with the Gladiator rears soon. They said the first of the year.

 

[Elff]

I think this is the direction I will be going with my JT.

Did they come in black and then you had them painted?
I think the Black would look cool with my Hydro Blue

They do have Gladiator Rear Flares that they sell with fronts here
https://www.quadratec.com/p/bushwacker/flat-style-fender-flares-gladiator-jt-10928-07

So I wonder why they couldn't just sell the rears by themselves???

 

[NCJL]

I think this is the direction I will be going with my JT.

Did they come in black and then you had them painted?
I think the Black would look cool with my Hydro Blue

Yes. I had them painted. If BW had the rears I might not have painted them.
They installed easily with all the needed hardware. Lights plug and play no issues.
I was surprised by the Made in Taiwan (BW doesn’t mention that), however the quality is good.

 

[NCJL]

I think this is the direction I will be going with my JT.

Did they come in black and then you had them painted?
I think the Black would look cool with my Hydro Blue

They do have Gladiator Rear Flares that they sell with fronts here
https://www.quadratec.com/p/bushwacker/flat-style-fender-flares-gladiator-jt-10928-07

So I wonder why they couldn't just sell the rears by themselves???

Those are the flat fender style not Hyperform.

 

[Dave-G]

Great looking build- Just a thought- If doing it over and you knew you were going to replace the 44's - would it save money to start with a sport model? Or with the amount of money spent it just does not matter?

 

[jn18]

Great looking build- Just a thought- If doing it over and you knew you were going to replace the 44's - would it save money to start with a sport model? Or with the amount of money spent it just does not matter?

I am currently contemplating this as well.

 

[NCJL]

Great looking build- Just a thought- If doing it over and you knew you were going to replace the 44's - would it save money to start with a sport model? Or with the amount of money spent it just does not matter?

Thank you. The amount of money spent is always a consideration for me. The “Build” was planned before purchasing the Gladiator.
I wanted the Eco Diesel, Rubicon hood and transfer case. I penciled out the cost of buying different models, factoring in potential value of resale parts. Also the cost of replacing Hood and Tcase. Using MSRP pricing, money could be saved by purchasing a non Rubicon.
The final decision was based on time and making a big build easier. Time is money. The savings didn’t justify the additional time.

 

[Dave-G]

Thank you. The amount of money spent is always a consideration for me. The “Build” was planned before purchasing the Gladiator.
I wanted the Eco Diesel, Rubicon hood and transfer case. I penciled out the cost of buying different models, factoring in potential value of resale parts. Also the cost of replacing Hood and Tcase. Using MSRP pricing, money could be saved by purchasing a non Rubicon.
The final decision was based on time and making a big build easier. Time is money. The savings didn’t justify the additional time.

Now I like it more I did not realize it was a diesel-
I thought the Rubicon lost the 4-1 transfer case when you got the diesel?

 

[NCJL]

Now I like it more I did not realize it was a diesel-
I thought the Rubicon lost the 4-1 transfer case when you got the diesel?

No still get 4-1 Tcase. You just loose the 4.10 gears to 3.73.

 

[NCJL]

Life has been very busy and complicated the last 6 months.
In the final stages of completing a redo of the suspension. Some may have noticed I just listed a lot of take off parts in the classified section?!? IKR.
I was happy with the original build until I had the pleasure of driving a coilovered JLUR with triple by pass front. Plus I needed more lift running 40’s off-road (42’s are next). I changed the rear springs once, realizing a matched set of springs is very important plus I truly liked the versatility of a coilover set up.
The new suspension is about 2” taller. Overall about 5/6” above factory with about 2” of play in the coilovers up/down. The roof is taller (81”) than the garage door. A down slope in front of garage just allows me to fit. I just need to miss the opener.

 

[NCJL]

Added an oil bypass filter and oil cooler. Never had an oil temp derate. I did have a few wire harnesses get hot and cause multiple sensor issues causing derating. I posted the detailed results in one of the many derating threads.

The cliff notes are:
Air circulation under the hood is important with the ED. My suspension modes have had an effect on the overall temp under the hood, not so much the engine itself. Everything around the engine is absorbing the engine temps with reduced airflow. My specific problem areas are fuse/relay box, power steering pump and firewall harness near EGR.
To help I rerouted wire harnesses and added heat shield.
I added heat shield between the power steering pump and wire harnesses leaving fuse box.
I have relocated the windshield washer bottle to the truck bed.
I added the oil bypass filter and cooler.
I added Water Wetter to the coolant system.
Overall I’m seeing peek oil temps of 235* before I would see 248*.

Future plans of relocating the batteries and power steering pump to the bed of the truck. Upgrade the PS cooler from what I have now.

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