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$1,350 battery replacement?

Lost1wing

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Hard to say since we don't know any further details. Was there a jump start involved


A bit of a probable misquote here is that it was "just the stupid ESS acting up".
The problem wasn't ESS acting up.
Did the fuse blow first, or later?
IF the batteries were not bad, but replaced anyway, then the dealer really did rip him off.
However, if the batteries were found to be bad, that could have resulted in the fuse going.
Too bad there wasn't more actual information-details.
For all we know, it was just a dead battery and the dealer tech smoked the fuse. That would only add more insult to the injury. I'm sure that didn’t happen.
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ShadowsPapa

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For all we know, it was just a dead battery and the dealer tech smoked the fuse. That would only add more insult to the injury. I'm sure that didn’t happen.
If you've gone to connect two batteries at very different levels of charge - it's a hell of a pop. Easily blow a fuse.

My gut says battery went bad in a "short" sort of way, and the disconnect and then reconnect during the restart caused the loud pop as the batteries tried to pass hundreds of amps across to equalize again.

It's hard to tell from a "we weren't there" viewpoint and only what info we can gather or what an owner can possibly provide (not having recorded it in detail - why would you?)
 

Maximus Gladius

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Not sure if anyone has considered the “commissions” factor in the 8 pages here. Service advisors and parts counter employees make a commission on their sales. They have to sell to earn a paycheque.
 

Stan H

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But what if He just wanted to sing country music
 

jebiruph

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Both batteries bad (original 6yo batteries, so probably due anyway) and fuse was blown. Can only speculate what happened and when. Did not attempt to jump start and potentially burn up more stuff.

Sequence of events:
- Stopped at a light, heard a loud "pop!" and everything turned off
- Dashboard dark, nothing worked, opened and closed door and "brake and press button" message appeared
- Tried to start, few clicks from under the hood, a sizzling noise (!), bunch of warnings, then everything goes dark again
- Tow truck driver tries to start it and no clicks or anything, just immediately goes dark including dome lights. Slight burning/hot electronics smell. He recommend not trying to jump it in case something shorted out.

If the ESS gave me a warning or if the battery was low, I would have obviously just towed it home, ordered some parts, and fixed it myself. In this case I was more concerned about the thing burning down in my driveway more than expensive dealer service centers, so off it went to Jeep.

So the mystery here is: Why did the ESS activate if the batteries weren't good? Thinking it must have been an immediate failure on restart because it's designed not to do that and leave you stranded if the engine is already running.
The loud pop, sizzling noise and burning smell reminded me of this issue https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...electrical-connector-issue.85238/post-1378121.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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The loud pop, sizzling noise and burning smell reminded me of this issue https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...electrical-connector-issue.85238/post-1378121.
Sizzle is sign of a bad connection - I've seen battery connections sizzle and you could see the sparking and "smoke" rise from the connection. Has to be similar.
But in his case, it was other stuff.
Worth reminding people to check their wiring and pay attention if they ever hear a sizzle - it's NOT good, regardless of the cause, and could be catastrophic...........
 
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Don't blame ESS - this would have happened anyway, no matter what.
True, but it would have happened in my driveway when I turned the engine off, not at a light when all I did was stop. Engine was running fine, the ESS kicked-in normally, and nothing went wrong until it was supposed to restart. Logical conclusion is that if the ESS was disabled (meaning the button was pushed manually or by the Tazer - not implying the Tazer somehow bypasses it and I understand it's just activating the button) then I would have at least made it to my destination another mile down the road. And yes, I do blame ESS because this would not have happened on a vehicle without it.
 
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RiverMtnBeach

RiverMtnBeach

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For all we know, it was just a dead battery and the dealer tech smoked the fuse. That would only add more insult to the injury. I'm sure that didn’t happen.
I would be suspicious if I didn't literally hear the thing pop and sizzle. It's not subtle. I thought the engine itself blew up for a minute.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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And yes, I do blame ESS because this would not have happened on a vehicle without it.
While it's true it would have happened at your next "planned" stop and shut down - be it a parking lot, rest area, or driveway at home, I guess you've not experienced a battery going zap and belly-up in your driveway, and the battery is internally shorted, not allowing a jump start. It happens.
Since we can't say it wasn't the crank battery going kaboom, zap, blammo, or any other fun words, all that can safely be assumed is that it would have happened at home, not on the road.

That's all I'm saying - batteries go bad, including that crank battery - and at that age, it's fully expected.
The only thing you can blame ESS for is the cost of the second battery, the fuse, and that it happened on the road.
Otherwise - last year I replaced a battery that likely made the same sound when it went - but I wasn't around to hear it. I found it sent my chargers into a tizzy, pulled it out of the car and found it was swollen. The store said "no warranty, that battery has been frozen" - to which I responded - bull shit - that car has been in a shop that never goes below 50 degrees at the coldest spot in the shop, and it sits not far from a 30' infrared heater that heats that shop 24/7/365. I know for a fact it's never ever been frozen.
The battery could not be charged, it was internally shorted, and being swollen, likely made some noise when it went. Luckily for my car and shop - it didn't leak!
I didn't even try a jump start, knowing very well that that sort of amperage applied to that battery could result in some bigger trouble.
 

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RiverMtnBeach

RiverMtnBeach

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all that can safely be assumed is that it would have happened at home, not on the road.
Yes, my point exactly. Having a vehicle that won't start in my driveway after I turned it off would have been much better than ESS turning it off at an intersection blocking traffic. If I remembered to have the Tazer plugged-in or pushed the ESS off button, I would have most likely made it home, so ESS was 100% the reason why I was stranded at a light. Dangerous, dumb feature forced on us by the government.
 

biodiesel

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I don't drive my Gladiator very often. I think it has 3,400 miles on it (December 2023 build date). It's not uncommon for it to sit for a month or two without being started. You would think the OE batteries would be toast, but I keep them maintained. I highly recommend keeping your Jeep on a battery maintainer when not driving it. I usually get 9+ years out of the factory batteries by keeping them maintained.

Note: I have noticed that it takes much longer to charge the dual battery system in the Gladiator.

Jeep Gladiator $1,350 battery replacement? yp9gAe9
 

Zachanadandy

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I don't drive my Gladiator very often. I think it has 3,400 miles on it (December 2023 build date). It's not uncommon for it to sit for a month or two without being started. You would think the OE batteries would be toast, but I keep them maintained. I highly recommend keeping your Jeep on a battery maintainer when not driving it. I usually get 9+ years out of the factory batteries by keeping them maintained.

Note: I have noticed that it takes much longer to charge the dual battery system in the Gladiator.

yp9gAe9.jpg
3400 miles in 2 years, always on a maintainer and never used? I'd hope to get 9+ years out of the battery too in a vehicle that's never driven and always plugged in. You might have 2 years worth of normal average miles in 10 years which makes your battery life less impressive. My 2023 mojave already has 35k miles on it, has never been plugged in, and almost never gets driven outside of weekends and roadtrips. Original batteries are still fine.
 

ShadowsPapa

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3400 miles in 2 years, always on a maintainer and never used? I'd hope to get 9+ years out of the battery too in a vehicle that's never driven and always plugged in. You might have 2 years worth of normal average miles in 10 years which makes your battery life less impressive. My 2023 mojave already has 35k miles on it, has never been plugged in, and almost never gets driven outside of weekends and roadtrips. Original batteries are still fine.
But you drive distances. Not the same thing.
These batteries really don't do much work, other than the parasitic loads while sitting. The starter? Hardly any load on them. Engine turns and starts quickly and easily. The alternator otherwise carries the load while driving - not the battery.
So really, yeah, it should count.
Your original batteries have no years on them - of course they should be fine. It's later where it counts, when sulfation sets in and you lose capacity.
Sorry, but saying batteries from 2023 are still fine really doesn't mean anything. 2 to 3 years old. Yeah, I'd hope so, especially since your drives tend to be longer than 15 minutes, and higher RPM than tooling around town.
Check back in a year or two.
 

Zachanadandy

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But you drive distances. Not the same thing.
These batteries really don't do much work, other than the parasitic loads while sitting. The starter? Hardly any load on them. Engine turns and starts quickly and easily. The alternator otherwise carries the load while driving - not the battery.
So really, yeah, it should count.
Your original batteries have no years on them - of course they should be fine. It's later where it counts, when sulfation sets in and you lose capacity.
Sorry, but saying batteries from 2023 are still fine really doesn't mean anything. 2 to 3 years old. Yeah, I'd hope so, especially since your drives tend to be longer than 15 minutes, and higher RPM than tooling around town.
Check back in a year or two.
Generally in modern Jeeps we get 3-4 years and about 50k miles out of the stock batteries. Getting more time out of a battery that's never used and always on a charger isn't impressive. Driven that little you could simply remove the batteries and they'd last for decades. If I never used the winch I'd agree that my batteries have a pretty optimal life... but there has been several hard pulls from them.
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