2.5 rough country leveling kit VS 2 inch mopar lift kit

[d k]

yes

Are you

Is that a general question for anyone?

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[tysongladiator]

yes

That depends on the reason why someone would be buying the spacers. If you're only running a 1 - 1.5" lift, the spacer lift would definitely be cheaper. Then add a set of good shocks and you get almost factory. But most of the time the coils cost more because in a kit with coils, you would be getting more than just coils which would increase the price of the lift. But in my case, I added a .75" spacer because of the weight on the front with the aftermarket bumper and winch. The spacer took out the rake and leveled the front.

 

[d k]

Good to know.

I will probably end up piece mealing mine together since there are certain things I like about each kit, but to start with I'll probably just do a spacer to evaluate the ride height and decide if I like 2" or go higher like a 3.5"

That depends on the reason why someone would be buying the spacers. If you're only running a 1 - 1.5" lift, the spacer lift would definitely be cheaper. Then add a set of good shocks and you get almost factory. But most of the time the coils cost more because in a kit with coils, you would be getting more than just coils which would increase the price of the lift. But in my case, I added a .75" spacer because of the weight on the front with the aftermarket bumper and winch. The spacer took out the rake and leveled the front.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Good to know.

I will probably end up piece mealing mine together since there are certain things I like about each kit, but to start with I'll probably just do a spacer to evaluate the ride height and decide if I like 2" or go higher like a 3.5"

I'd recommend from experience on my old JKU not piecing one together. Each kit is designed to work with the parts that come with them, and tested with those parts. Buying a complete kit will ensure you get what you need without any compromises. I pieced a spacer kit together on my first 2.5" lift and didn't install some of the things I needed and the ride suffered. I ended up removing it and going with a 2.5" rough country lift that had everything with it. I guess technically you could Frankenlift one, it's just not recommended

 

[d k]

I totally get what you're saying.

I'm just seeing lots of faults in the design of a lot of the kits out there.
I have built and set up many race cars and suspension dynamics are very important to me.

The only engineer I have talked to in the past that has shared my ideas on suspension dynamics were the guys from AEV.

It seems like a lot of the 'off the shelf' kits are designed for maximum brag numbers like articulation and travel that show up on a sheet of paper, but if the truck handles like crap, then whats the point?

I will probably get the arms from one place, get the springs from someone else and get the shocks from yet someone else.


I don't like what happens to all the angles when the truck gets raised. I would like to keep the original angles as much as possible while adding articulation and keep the joints from binding.

I mentioned in a another thread as well, that happens to the track rod (panhard is the correct name) - is crazy.
The axles are moving left and right as the suspension travels!

I believe (in my naive opinion) that this could be reduced greatly by placing more emphasis on correcting roll centers, instant centers and keeping the angles much closer to the factory angles while still getting the desired lift.



A very interesting take on the containment of lateral movement of the axle is the Watts linkage setup.
I'm not sure it could work for our setup but it sure would be cool!


D

I'd recommend from experience on my old JKU not piecing one together. Each kit is designed to work with the parts that come with them, and tested with those parts. Buying a complete kit will ensure you get what you need without any compromises. I pieced a spacer kit together on my first 2.5" lift and didn't install some of the things I needed and the ride suffered. I ended up removing it and going with a 2.5" rough country lift that had everything with it. I guess technically you could Frankenlift one, it's just not recommended

 

[d k]

Normal height

Compression

And droop

 

[tysongladiator]

I totally get what you're saying.

I'm just seeing lots of faults in the design of a lot of the kits out there.
I have built and set up many race cars and suspension dynamics are very important to me.

The only engineer I have talked to in the past that has shared my ideas on suspension dynamics were the guys from AEV.

It seems like a lot of the 'off the shelf' kits are designed for maximum brag numbers like articulation and travel that show up on a sheet of paper, but if the truck handles like crap, then whats the point?

I will probably get the arms from one place, get the springs from someone else and get the shocks from yet someone else.


I don't like what happens to all the angles when the truck gets raised. I would like to keep the original angles as much as possible while adding articulation and keep the joints from binding.

I mentioned in a another thread as well, that happens to the track rod (panhard is the correct name) - is crazy.
The axles are moving left and right as the suspension travels!

I believe (in my naive opinion) that this could be reduced greatly by placing more emphasis on correcting roll centers, instant centers and keeping the angles much closer to the factory angles while still getting the desired lift.



A very interesting take on the containment of lateral movement of the axle is the Watts linkage setup.
I'm not sure it could work for our setup but it sure would be cool!


D

I agree with you. I've worked on race cars in the past. Everything matters. Lol.

When I had my Ram, it wasn't the best of ride. I had a 6" suspension and 3" body lift. Even though I paid $2K for the kit, it didn't come with shocks. Wore out the shocks and ball joints. Went with bilsteins to help a little. It did have a transfer case drop down though.

With my JT, I be decided on the Mopar kit. A big lift was useless to me other than looks. Have me no extra performance off road. But the Mopar kit works perfect. Had all of the springs, control arms, and fox shocks. Pinon angle and all geometry is where it should be and it rides good. For now! At least until my constant off roadingb starts wearing it parts.

But I got my JT in June 2019 and had the kit put on around August / September 2019. So far, I'm happy.

But yes, when it comes to vehicle suspension, all of the components matter!

 

[Deleted member 30519]

Not saying your right or wrong but the Readylift and pretty much every other puck lift I have seen use polyurethane spacers. The 2.5" Rough country lift I had on my JKU had polyurethane pucks for the lift. Maybe RC went back in time and decided to make metal ones again. I could be wrong though, just wouldn't make sense to use metal spacers, one for the corrosion and two for the weight. If they in fact are metal, I'm glad I went the Readylift route then. Still not knocking your lift though, if you like it, that's all that matters.

I know this is an old post but my JL 2.5" RC spacer lift kit had metal spacers. I still have them in garage if anyone wants to see pics..surface rust and all.

 

[TJDave]

Bright White Rubicon with RC 2.5" front leveling kit ($129), .75" Daystar rear spacers ($39), and Mopar 2" lift lower front control arms ($60) on 37's vs Sting Gray Sport with Mopar 2" ($1250-$1700) on 35's. I am still deciding on going to a spring lift or not. So far, the spacer lift rides great on and off road. I sold the built TJ, and will only be doing mild trails these days. $228 vs $1250. ?

 

[SelfmodJT]

maybe I got lucky cause I have zero “severe” pulling to the left. Actually it tracks just as straight as before the mopar lift, I haven’t even done an alignment yet. my only issue is the axle is shifted towards the drivers side by a little (would have never notice if people on here didn’t say it) so I got a front trackbar on order once that’s in then I’ll do the alignment but I honestly don’t feel like I need one.
Also I’m not sure how you figure you don’t gain anything with the mopar lift. I gained 3.5” in the front and 2.5” in the back and no I didn’t change tires out so I’m kinda confused where your getting your information from. Not trying to be rude but if your going to give info at least try to make sure it’s true.

lastely people have found the mopar lift brand new on eBay from a dealer down in Georgia for about $1,000 I personally bought mine for 1250 so paying 1500 for it is crazy

So the mopar 2inch kit will level the gladiator out without adding a leveling kit?

 

[bigsend]

So the mopar 2inch kit will level the gladiator out without adding a leveling kit?

No it will not level out. The extreme front rake will still be there. The teraflex 1.5in or Daystar 1.5in kit should be used the level the jeep. Especially if you’re planning to add a heavy front bumper or winch.

 

[SelfmodJT]

No it will not level out. The extreme front rake will still be there. The teraflex 1.5in or Daystar 1.5in kit should be used the level the jeep. Especially if you’re planning to add a heavy front bumper or winch.

So if i add the 1.5 inch teraflex is that considered a 3.5 inch lift for the front? So are adjustable control arms and trackbar necessary?

 

[SelfmodJT]

I guess what im really asking is do i need those if i want to do it right, lol. I guess it couldnt hurt and i can always get a higher lift if i choose so down the road and the life time warranty for core 4x4 arms doesnt hurt either.

 

[bigsend]

So if i add the 1.5 inch teraflex is that considered a 3.5 inch lift for the front? So are adjustable control arms and trackbar necessary?

Great question and one that I am working on figuring out myself. According to my dealer and also the research I have done so far. An adjustable track bar is needed however adjustable control arms are only recommended.

I would recommend looking at this forum & the JL forum and search around for the Mopar lift and leveling combos and decide for yourself.

I am personally going with the teraflex 1.5 upfront, synergy track bar. I am having the dealer do the install for 1 hour of labor. My Mopar lift has been installed for the last 3weeks, it has been AWESOME paired with 37in ridge grapplers.

Unless a metal leveling kit comes (not the JKS adjustable system) out then I don’t plan on altering from the above course once my VKS front bumper and Warn evo 10s get installed.

 

[SelfmodJT]

Great question and one that I am working on figuring out myself. According to my dealer and also the research I have done so far. An adjustable track bar is needed however adjustable control arms are only recommended.

I would recommend looking at this forum & the JL forum and search around for the Mopar lift and leveling combos and decide for yourself.

I am personally going with the teraflex 1.5 upfront, synergy track bar. I am having the dealer do the install for 1 hour of labor. My Mopar lift has been installed for the last 3weeks, it has been AWESOME paired with 37in ridge grapplers.

Unless a metal leveling kit comes (not the JKS adjustable system) out then I don’t plan on altering from the above course once my VKS front bumper and Warn evo 10s get installed.

I think i will just get the whole package from core 4x4 for the lifetime warranty. Kind of pricey but if plan to keep it until the wheels fall off i might as well. I went with the rugged ridge venator bumper because i wanted a light bumper, i dont ever plan on going rock crawling. Maybe pebble crawling, lol. I have the warn evo 10s installed. Yet to try it out but im sure its a good winch.

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