2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build

[chorky]

I would say Odessy is 'ok'. In the last, oh 5 years or so I have had to warranty out replacements 3 times on my TJ - granted the TJ doesn't get driven a ton so there could be a parasitic draw but the issue was it would not take a charge and the voltage was practically 0. I have a yellow top group 31. I have heard a lot of others have issues with them as well - but it seems 50/50 like anything else. Theres a lot of companies making AGM's these days. So far I have been pretty happy with the full throttle batteries in the Genesis kit and they also make several types. Their specs are nice to see as well. I think it's one of those things that since AGM is nothing new anymore, a variety of companies will be fine especially since most of them have a 3-5 year warranty.

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[chorky]

But - if you are not changing out the situation under the hood then why not keep the factory AGM until it dies?

 

[Flyin6]

If you are looking for a lightweight battery we had success with Braille AGM batteries in my Porsche race car. Be sure to get one that has the correct specs for your needs..

https://braillebattery.com/collections/racing-auto/products/b2618

Thanks for the tip/link...

That is rather interesting. only 24ah is a bit concerning. Thinking of the hated long winch, followed by another long winch. That thing would either die or explode. But with over 1100CCA, it would for sure start the mighty Pentastar gnome motor. OK, I'll check it out...

Danke'

 

[Flyin6]

But - if you are not changing out the situation under the hood then why not keep the factory AGM until it dies?

Good question, and I certainly could. smlobx suggests this "Braille" battery. At a minuscule 19 lbs, that's certainly a winner saving me at least 30 but maybe a wee short at 24ah reserve. If that checked out and I canned the factory secondary battery, seems like I would have met and exceeded my weight savings goal of swapping for a LiPO4 battery. This little subtopic has become rather interesting all of a sudden...

 

[chorky]

If you are looking for a lightweight battery we had success with Braille AGM batteries in my Porsche race car. Be sure to get one that has the correct specs for your needs..

https://braillebattery.com/collections/racing-auto/products/b2618

Good question, and I certainly could. smlobx suggests this "Braille" battery. At a minuscule 19 lbs, that's certainly a winner saving me at least 30 but maybe a wee short at 24ah reserve. If that checked out and I canned the factory secondary battery, seems like I would have met and exceeded my weight savings goal of swapping for a LiPO4 battery. This little subtopic has become rather interesting all of a sudden...

I'm a little confused here with that battery link. I think he might have been suggesting to explore their website - that battery linked is not the right one for the Gladiator. This is a group 31 battery - it's still 70 pounds though https://braillebattery.com/products/b10531m-1?_pos=1&_sid=291d940ee&_ss=r

I suppose it is worth looking into what they can offer! Although not sure about putting in a physically smaller battery or what that may do, if nothing. But remember, you would still need another battery or two in your bed for the camping electronics - this would just be a starting and vehicle running battery. I would be curious to know what it is rated in terms of maximum amp charge and pull - relating to the potential of pulling 500 amps with a hard winch pull.

Agreed - battery stuff is interesting and can get quite detailed if one really looks deep into it

 

[Flyin6]

I'm a little confused here with that battery link. I think he might have been suggesting to explore their website - that battery linked is not the right one for the Gladiator. This is a group 31 battery - it's still 70 pounds though https://braillebattery.com/products/b10531m-1?_pos=1&_sid=291d940ee&_ss=r

I suppose it is worth looking into what they can offer! Although not sure about putting in a physically smaller battery or what that may do, if nothing. But remember, you would still need another battery or two in your bed for the camping electronics - this would just be a starting and vehicle running battery. I would be curious to know what it is rated in terms of maximum amp charge and pull - relating to the potential of pulling 500 amps with a hard winch pull.

Agreed - battery stuff is interesting and can get quite detailed if one really looks deep into it

Yea, that link is like an AirForce airborne drop...They just get you into the area...Like say for example you are supposed to jump onto a runway somewhere, THey will put you over a nearby swamp if they can find one...

Sorry, I digressed some.

From that link I think we can explore what Braille is offering if anything. Copy: The battery has to have the terminals on the correct side and in the approximate position to physically fit. But, I do not think a physically smaller dimension unit would matter all that much. Give me a place to stack the foil-wrapped food packets so they are warm and toasty when we finally get there at the end of the day...

 

[chorky]

e and in the approximate position to physically fit. But, I do not think a physically smaller dimension unit would matter all that much. Give me a place to stack the foil-wrapped food packets so they are warm and toasty when we finally get th

Copy makes more sense and that's what I thought as well. hahaha....reminds me of heating up the good 'ol MRE's under the hood when it was already 120 out lol.

Here is a pic of my battery tray when I swapped to the Genesis - a smaller battery could fit as long as it is wide enough to be secured by the tiedown

You can see the built in hold down on the right, and on the left the nut where the tie down screws into. As long as a replacement is the same width I dont see why a smaller one couldn't fit.

 

[Flyin6]

Copy makes more sense and that's what I thought as well. hahaha....reminds me of heating up the good 'ol MRE's under the hood when it was already 120 out lol.

Here is a pic of my battery tray when I swapped to the Genesis - a smaller battery could fit as long as it is wide enough to be secured by the tiedown

You can see the built in hold down on the right, and on the left the nut where the tie down screws into. As long as a replacement is the same width I dont see why a smaller one couldn't fit.

I could fab something up, I'm sure. Question, the well in the tray...Is that where the secondary battery rests?

 

[chorky]

I could fab something up, I'm sure. Question, the well in the tray...Is that where the secondary battery rests?

Yessir that's for the aux, pain in the butt. You can get to it via either the fender well area or you have to pull the PDC off

First you disconnect everything and take the PDC off

Then you have to move all of these out of the way. But Be careful you don't touch antything to each other, and when going back in a lot of people accidentally bend pins which causes a whole lot of issues. You can see the cover to that well here, theres 3 or 4 bolts that tie the cover down.

And then this is what it's like with the factory tray removed.

 

[Flyin6]

Yessir that's for the aux, pain in the butt. You can get to it via either the fender well area or you have to pull the PDC off

First you disconnect everything and take the PDC off

Then you have to move all of these out of the way. But Be careful you don't touch antything to each other, and when going back in a lot of people accidentally bend pins which causes a whole lot of issues. You can see the cover to that well here, theres 3 or 4 bolts that tie the cover down.

And then this is what it's like with the factory tray removed.

Thank You!

 

[Flyin6]

FYI,

I contacted Braille Battery with my specific requirements. Everything I'll do to include long winches with the high amp draw. This is what I got in return:


Many thanks for taking the time to contact Braille Battery.



We would recommend the i48CS product which is $1999.99 and have attached the product data sheet for your information.



Kind regards

Oliver Fall
Director, Global Sales & Distribution
Tel: +44 7779 785206
www.braillebattery.com

I'm sorry, but I am not buying it. Recommending a lithium battery? Looks as though the sales guy did not read, nor fully digest my email. and, what about that price?

So the battery does two things for sure:
1. Saves a bunch of weight
2. Breaks the bank!

 

[toddarama]

So the battery does two things for sure:
1. Saves a bunch of weight
2. Breaks the bank!

You mean an empty wallet isn't the kind of weight savings you are looking for?

 

[fourfa]

I concur the Alu-Cab is about the heaviest camper option (I have one) apart from traditional cab-over slide-in RV style campers - but also the most luxe. The bed is larger than most, allows thicker bedding (and for the bedding to remain in place, not have to get packed away every time), the internal entry and gas-strut lifting system are fairly unique, and the interior/exterior rails everywhere make build-outs very easy. If you just check every box on the install options (propane heater, awning, water system, all the MOLLE panels and all the gear that goes on them, Goose Gear system etc) you’ll easily be over GVWR before even adding occupants and supplies. Keep it minimal and it’s possible to stay under GVWR (though I suspect few actually do)

If light weight was my primary concern I’d have gone with GFC or a rack/RTT system.

If money is no object then there are also some one-piece bed replacement campers that ought to be more efficient with weight

 

[Flyin6]

You mean an empty wallet isn't the kind of weight savings you are looking for?

Not exactly... ;-)

 

[Flyin6]

I concur the Alu-Cab is about the heaviest camper option (I have one) apart from traditional cab-over slide-in RV style campers - but also the most luxe. The bed is larger than most, allows thicker bedding (and for the bedding to remain in place, not have to get packed away every time), the internal entry and gas-strut lifting system are fairly unique, and the interior/exterior rails everywhere make build-outs very easy. If you just check every box on the install options (propane heater, awning, water system, all the MOLLE panels and all the gear that goes on them, Goose Gear system etc) you’ll easily be over GVWR before even adding occupants and supplies. Keep it minimal and it’s possible to stay under GVWR (though I suspect few actually do)

If light weight was my primary concern I’d have gone with GFC or a rack/RTT system.

If money is no object then there are also some one-piece bed replacement campers that ought to be more efficient with weight

I'm not to that point yet.

I am seeking a lightweight platform build at this point in the process in preparation for the addition of all the overland stuff. I'll probably end up with a GFC2 or something of a similar weight.

The overriding factor BY F A R is the lack of performance of this wimpy motor. I am probably the totally wrong guy to be driving the little gasser-6. Let's see, my other overlander is a supercharged 6.0L suburban that puts 550 TQ on the pavement starting at 2300 RPM and keeps it there all the way to 5,800 RPM. Next vehicle is a built Duramax truck, lifted and tuned, big turbo. That one makes 1200 torque on 4.56 gears. Yes, it can tow, the earth! Finally, I have what is becoming my daily, a Ram 3500 Cummins with more twist at idle than my Jeep could put out on nitrous! Well, maybe not really, but you get my point. Heck, even my mower has 38 HP!

Everything I own, including my Bernese mountain dogs has more power than this Pentastall motor. So, I am really NOT impressed by it. And since Mopar was kind enough to invent a confuser that the tuners will not attempt to crack for fear of having some black spell cast on them, I am stuck with what, 25 horsepower? That is the reason I am decreasing weight, in some attempt to get a bit more push out of the little motor that can't.

When I add the camper and all that stuff to the back end, the good thing is, I'll be mostly on a cool trail somewhere in low range. I won't notice the lack of power.

In the years to come, there is little doubt I will have a proper motor resting in the frame rails and relegate this pentastall to duty pushing my big mower I use down at the farm...

Rant off (For now) ;-)

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