2022 AEV Gladiator Rubicon build

[Flyin6]

The bottom line is that I cannot live with that, so I ordered a new aluminum Gen-Right bumper.
I seem to accumulate a lot of used Jeep parts for sale

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[Flyin6]

And, having had a lot of time to think the suspension through, I am making the following changes:
Iron Rock front long arms
Iron Rock rear long arms
Iron Rock air bumps
Iron rock 4" front and 5" rear springs
Metal cloak uniball joints for the front axle
Metal cloak spring pad correctors
Off Road Only dual front sway bar
Fox 2.5" Performance shocks

 

[Jteakus]

You should take a good look at the Metalcloak long arm kit

 

[Flyin6]

You should take a good look at the Metalcloak long arm kit

I did, and I love it! I'd counteroffer that you take a good look at the Iron Rock long arms.
Regarding that decision, MetalCloak was a finalist, but selecting the winner came down to cost. I felt that the Iron Rock system gave me everything I needed and was on par with MC at 1/3 the cost. At such a price delta, there was really no other decision to make here.
Do I always search and reference the MC website for my needs? Yes, I certainly do. Their shocks were even in the final pool, but once again, cost drove me, along with a ton of positive reports from Fox owners, to the Fox 2.5.

 

[Flyin6]

Running boards, front bumper, and Rubicon sway bar are all listed for sale on Marketplace. Time to make room for what is coming next.

Edit: Had someone try to trade a single-action Ruger pistol for the running boards already!

 

[MSFTMatt]

The bottom line is that I cannot live with that, so I ordered a new aluminum Gen-Right bumper.
I seem to accumulate a lot of used Jeep parts for sale

I was looking at that bumper and saw that you need to switch to a Currie Anti-sway bar type set-up because you need to cut some parts off. Is that also in your build? Perhaps I missed in while wiping off drool perusing this thread.

 

[Flyin6]

I was looking at that bumper and saw that you need to switch to a Currie Anti-sway bar type set-up because you need to cut some parts off. Is that also in your build? Perhaps I missed in while wiping off drool perusing this thread.

I mentioned that in post #857.
I have an Off Road Only dual sway bar assembly. It is far superior to the stock Rubi sway bar in my opinion. For off-roading, you will have the skinny inner bar always engaged. When you close the latch and engage the hollow tube, you actually get a more substantial bar than the one the factory provides. I felt that would be a good idea with a 4.5" lift and that IKamper tent hanging out way up high. Thinking about it, you never disconnect the rear swaybar, so it makes sense to keep something hooked up in the front.

https://offroadonly.com/shop/swayloc/oro-swayloc-for-jeep-wrangler-jl-jt/

 

[MSFTMatt]

I mentioned that in post #857.
I have an Off Road Only dual sway bar assembly. It is far superior to the stock Rubi sway bar in my opinion. For off-roading, you will have the skinny inner bar always engaged. When you close the latch and engage the hollow tube, you actually get a more substantial bar than the one the factory provides. I felt that would be a good idea with a 4.5" lift and that IKamper tent hanging out way up high. Thinking about it, you never disconnect the rear swaybar, so it makes sense to keep something hooked up in the front.

https://offroadonly.com/shop/swayloc/oro-swayloc-for-jeep-wrangler-jl-jt/

Oh right on, I’ll check that option out!

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

What made you decide on Iron Rock vs the Clayton front long arms?

 

[Flyin6]

What made you decide on Iron Rock vs the Clayton front long arms?

One of the members here mentioned an issue with radius arms. I was unaware that at more extreme flex angles, the radius arm pushes back on the vehicle rather than flexing further. I had never known that, but research proved him out...Nothing like listening to experience!
From that point on, I was full speed ahead on a 4-link, just get the bars flatter and longer. I also wanted bolt on vs welded, given the reduced thickness of our frame material. I went through literally everyone. I do not think anyone out there gives you as big a bang for the buck as Iron Rock.
Front and rear 4-link brackets and arms are a tad over $2,800. MC, which was one of my favorites, approached $10K, I think. I tried the Artec kit, but they could not guarantee their brackets would clear the RSE sliders.

 

[Zachanadandy]

One of the members here mentioned an issue with radius arms. I was unaware that at more extreme flex angles, the radius arm pushes back on the vehicle rather than flexing further. I had never known that, but research proved him out...Nothing like listening to experience!
From that point on, I was full speed ahead on a 4-link, just get the bars flatter and longer. I also wanted bolt on vs welded, given the reduced thickness of our frame material. I went through literally everyone. I do not think anyone out there gives you as big a bang for the buck as Iron Rock.
Front and rear 4-link brackets and arms are a tad over $2,800. MC, which was one of my favorites, approached $10K, I think. I tried the Artec kit, but they could not guarantee their brackets would clear the RSE sliders.

The radius arm binding is why metalcloak uses the disconnectable upper on their lock&load radius arm system. On my old XJ I put a beefier mount and rebuilt the upper on the passengers side and deleted the drivers side altogether so it was a half radius arm/ 3 link setup. I wouldn't trust a single upper on the road with the stock bushings and small bolts though.

 

[Flyin6]

The radius arm binding is why metalcloak uses the disconnectable upper on their lock&load radius arm system. On my old XJ I put a beefier mount and rebuilt the upper on the passengers side and deleted the drivers side altogether so it was a half radius arm/ 3 link setup. I wouldn't trust a single upper on the road with the stock bushings and small bolts though.

^^^^^^ He's the wise member I was referencing^^^^

We are all blessed by having a lot of experience hanging around.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

One of the members here mentioned an issue with radius arms. I was unaware that at more extreme flex angles, the radius arm pushes back on the vehicle rather than flexing further. I had never known that, but research proved him out...Nothing like listening to experience!
From that point on, I was full speed ahead on a 4-link, just get the bars flatter and longer. I also wanted bolt on vs welded, given the reduced thickness of our frame material. I went through literally everyone. I do not think anyone out there gives you as big a bang for the buck as Iron Rock.
Front and rear 4-link brackets and arms are a tad over $2,800. MC, which was one of my favorites, approached $10K, I think. I tried the Artec kit, but they could not guarantee their brackets would clear the RSE sliders.

Noted. Thank you for pointing it out. I read through but maybe I blanked when it was stated.

 

[Zachanadandy]

^^^^^^ He's the wise member I was referencing^^^^

We are all blessed by having a lot of experience hanging around.

As with most, I've learned a lot of things the hard way. Try to share my experiences so others don't have to screw things up along the way... at least not as much.

 

[Flyin6]

I have an inbound on the bumper, so...

It's gone and on marketplace.

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