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ShadowsPapa
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Cold forged. It's to make it easier to start the bolt during production assembly.
Bolts like that have been used for at least 5 decades.
These are bolts and nuts I plated for a 1973 AMC restoration - shock tower bolts and nuts. The end of the bolt slips into a threaded hole ensuring a straight start with automated tools.
Sorry, but it's interesting that people see those ends and wonder......... maybe first time working on a car or truck.
rickrogan
Well-Known Member
Heh, I had almost tagged @ShadowsPapa in the my post to this thread because he's exactly the sort of poster who I would have expected to know the terminology for this.Cold forged. It's to make it easier to start the bolt during production assembly.
Bolts like that have been used for at least 5 decades.
These are bolts and nuts I plated for a 1973 AMC restoration - shock tower bolts and nuts. The end of the bolt slips into a threaded hole ensuring a straight start with automated tools.
Sorry, but it's interesting that people see those ends and wonder......... maybe first time working on a car or truck.
And yeah, these kind of bolts are all over our Jeeps (and garages). And you really appreciate how nice and easy they are to get started (with fingers or automated tools) after you run into a bolt that has threads all the way to the end!
And congrats @Summitdan on both wrapping that up AND having such a great story!
BTW: Is your exhaust rubbing at all where it crosses the transfer case? DIdn't look like it in the pix, just curious.
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WILDHOBO
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- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks. It one spot it would have barely touched a bracket, but I trimmed it. I’ve asked them to make a slightly taller bracket for that spot. The skid doesn’t touch the exhaust at all. Not close. Part of me hopes the bolt brand will stay on my arm. Funny story.Heh, I had almost tagged @ShadowsPapa in the my post to this thread because he's exactly the sort of poster who I would have expected to know the terminology for this.
And yeah, these kind of bolts are all over our Jeeps (and garages). And you really appreciate how nice and easy they are to get started (with fingers or automated tools) after you run into a bolt that has threads all the way to the end!
And congrats @Summitdan on both wrapping that up AND having such a great story!
BTW: Is your exhaust rubbing at all where it crosses the transfer case? DIdn't look like it in the pix, just curious.
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rickrogan
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Cool... similar design, but I think it appears to be a little different than the Artec that I got?? Which one did you pick? (Looks great btw)
ShadowsPapa
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I sure appreciate these things. Parts don't always align perfectly. These help prevent cross-threading while trying to get a bolt through the hole in one part and into the threads of the next. If you have a socket on the bolt, you can literally push the parts into alignment using the end of the bolt and the threads start in fine.
Even these Ford starter bolts from the 1960s had a tapered end so when slid through the long starter frame to the drive end housing, they'd more easily find and start into the threaded hole.
rickrogan
Well-Known Member
Excellent... that one looks great. Just outta curiosity, how does that attach in the rear of the gas tank? I couldn't tell by looking at the diagrams. The Artec has a pair of brackets - each about 8" - that attach the rear gas tank skid to the JT.
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WILDHOBO
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- #25
Two huge steel brackets that go up to the frame. This skid fully replaced the factory tank skid. Here’s two pictures. One showing the rubber bumpers where it contacts the tank, and one of the rear brackets test fit. This kit also replaces that main cross member, and adds another tank support. Those support the tank between the tank and skid. Skid bolts to those as well. And bolts to the original tranny cross member. You’ll notice one of the brackets in the test fit picture has a tab reversed from the same part shown in a box. It was a mistake. They replaced it same day with overnight shipping. Great customer service. The one in the box is the right orientation. It obviously got primed and chassis paint before install.
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rickrogan
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Cool. Makes total sense. Approximately similar design to the Artec. Although I think that the NVM outboard bracket (the bigger one, assuming that's the outboard) has an extra triangular part. Probably a notch stiffer as a result.
(Mutters, "wonder why didn't they put that in the diagram??" while shrugging shoulders)
(Mutters, "wonder why didn't they put that in the diagram??" while shrugging shoulders)
ShadowsPapa
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I really like how they made those brackets - cut some weight without sacrificing strength.Two huge steel brackets that go up to the frame. This skid fully replaced the factory tank skid. Here’s two pictures. One showing the rubber bumpers where it contacts the tank, and one of the rear brackets test fit. This kit also replaces that main cross member, and adds another tank support. Those support the tank between the tank and skid. Skid bolts to those as well. And bolts to the original tranny cross member. You’ll notice one of the brackets in the test fit picture has a tab reversed from the same part shown in a box. It was a mistake. They replaced it same day with overnight shipping. Great customer service. The one in the box is the right orientation. It obviously got primed and chassis paint before install.
That's impressive looking stuff.
Any problem swapping that in with a tank of fuel?
ShadowsPapa
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- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
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Duct tape and ratchet straps - where would we be................
I was just curious. Around here there's nothing to protect the belly of the truck from other than road kill, deer carcasses, occasional chunks of ice dropped from semis, but then one never says never. It's amazing sometimes how well the underside of my car is protected compared to these trucks - except for the gas tank.
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