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3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal

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Duct tape and ratchet straps - where would we be................

I was just curious. Around here there's nothing to protect the belly of the truck from other than road kill, deer carcasses, occasional chunks of ice dropped from semis, but then one never says never. It's amazing sometimes how well the underside of my car is protected compared to these trucks - except for the gas tank.
With the stock rubicon skids, they’re plenty well protected from road kill or ice. These will help for high centering on rocks and/or rock garden stuff where individual rocks could get between the OEM skids. Here’s what my originals looked like after 16k miles. They got some use.

49BCE2C5-37DE-403E-852E-EC682968F3BE.jpeg
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It took my dad and I about two hours to get these motor mount bolts out and replaced for the next venture aluminum belly skid with UHMW.

The drivers side was significantly easier because it was accessible from above with a lot of ratchet extension. I used a mini induction heater because of the ridiculous thread locker on the bolts while my dad was working the wrenches.

The passenger side took most of the time. We had to use three different sized ratchets with various ratchet extensions and socket depths. As the bolt backed out we kept hitting the oil line and exhaust. I heated the bolt with the mini induction heater while my dad worked the wrench with a pipe to gain leverage. We only got a click or two on the ratchet so it took a very long time to get it to a point we could remove by hand.

We reinstalled with medium thread locker by hand and tightened the same way they were removed. The bolts were torqued to 48 ft lbs.

Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 699D258F-5D8A-4CB6-A026-1CF24C7BEBA5


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 185C5A39-103E-4825-88C1-9B5F94499E7D


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal DF981366-93BC-4702-9669-1458F6B3BA0B


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal F3324D90-36A4-461A-AD8D-7CFC941081C2


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 789BF211-D9D0-49AB-A052-B978DAD738F8
 
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It took my dad and I about two hours to get these motor mount bolts out and replaced for the next venture aluminum belly skid with UHMW.

The drivers side was significantly easier because it was accessible from above with a lot of ratchet extension. I used a mini induction heater because of the ridiculous thread locker on the bolts while my dad was working the wrenches.

The passenger side took most of the time. We had to use three different ratchets with various ratchet extensions and sockets. As the bolt backed out we kept hitting the oil pickup line and exhaust. I heated the bolt with the mini induction heater while my dad worked the wrench with a pipe to gain leverage. We only got a click or two on the ratchet so it took a very long time to get it to a point we could remove by finger.

We reinstalled with medium thread locker by hand and tightened the same way they were removed. The bolts were torqued to 48 ft lbs.

Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 789BF211-D9D0-49AB-A052-B978DAD738F8


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 789BF211-D9D0-49AB-A052-B978DAD738F8


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 789BF211-D9D0-49AB-A052-B978DAD738F8


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 789BF211-D9D0-49AB-A052-B978DAD738F8


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal 789BF211-D9D0-49AB-A052-B978DAD738F8


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It’s a bad spot. I ended up using a pneumatic ratchet through the wheel well and propane from below to heat it up. It worked great on both sides. It took me a while to figure out the right way.
 

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It’s a bad spot. I ended up using a pneumatic ratchet through the wheel well and propane from below to heat it up. It worked great on both sides. It took me a while to figure out the right way.
Indeed, totally worth it though!

I really lucked out the lower oil pan held up through a pretty bad hit. It wasn’t too tough to replace though. The hardest part was carefully slicing thru the old RTV & prying it it off after the bolts were removed. As well as carefully cleaning up all the old RTV with scotch brite & solvent.

It was a relatively inexpensive part with quick availability too. There were no issues or leaks after reapplying RTV on the new pan and getting it bolted on. The oil pressure was normal and it took exactly a 5 quart bottle of oil to get it to the top of the safe zone on the dipstick. I let the new RTV cure for a full 24 hours before adding oil again per the dealers recommendation.

I’m not really worried about this happening again at all with Next Venture’s outstanding engine / oil pan skid + UHMW.

I did also have an issue with the driver side stiffener bracket on the engine / oil pan skid clearing the exhaust because the tubing was a bit bent out of shape.

There’s plenty of space to fit hands and tools for doing oil changes with the slot in the engine / oil pan skid. I wish they would’ve had designed something to close off the slot though.

I’ll take some photos of the finished project eventually, we were finishing up pretty late and exhausted (no pun intended 😆). It felt so good finally packing away the tools then admiring the new skids.

Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal B101E6E9-00AE-48C3-BD39-A8344C4F32E9


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal DE3FD448-C326-496E-B3CB-3A805A8B8F87
 
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Indeed, totally worth it though!

I really lucked out the lower oil pan held up through a pretty bad hit. It wasn’t too tough to replace though. The hardest part was carefully slicing thru the old RTV & prying it it off after the bolts were removed. As well as carefully cleaning up all the old RTV with scotch brite & solvent.

It was a relatively inexpensive part with quick availability too. No issues or leaks after reapplying RTV on the new pan and getting it back on. The oil pressure was normal and it took exactly a 5 quart bottle of oil to get it to the top of the safe zone. I let the new RTV cure for a full 24 hours before adding oil again per the dealers recommendation.

I’m not really worried about this happening again at all with Next Venture’s outstanding engine / oil pan skid + UHMW.

I did also have an issue with the driver side stiffener bracket on the engine / oil pan skid clearing the exhaust because the tubing was a bit bent out of shape.

There’s plenty of space to fit hands and tools for doing oil changes with the slot in the engine / oil pan skid. I wish they would’ve had designed something to close off the slot though.

I’ll take some photos of the finished project eventually, we were finishing up pretty late and exhausted (no pun intended 😆). It felt so good finally packing away the tools then admiring the new skids.

Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal DE3FD448-C326-496E-B3CB-3A805A8B8F87


Jeep Gladiator 3.6 Rear motor mount bolt removal DE3FD448-C326-496E-B3CB-3A805A8B8F87
Their skids are truly amazing. You’ll love them. I have the UHMW as well, and it’s like gliding over things coated in butter. I also had a dinged up exhaust. They made me a new bracket to get me more clearance. Their support is fantastic.
 

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Their skids are truly amazing. You’ll love them. I have the UHMW as well, and it’s like gliding over things coated in butter. I also had a dinged up exhaust. They made me a new bracket to get me more clearance. Their support is fantastic.
And the bolt burn is still on my shoulder. I love it.
 

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Their skids are truly amazing. You’ll love them. I have the UHMW as well, and it’s like gliding over things coated in butter. I also had a dinged up exhaust. They made me a new bracket to get me more clearance. Their support is fantastic.
Nice, I’ll have to ask them at Winter 4x4 Jamboree if they’ll hook me up. I noticed you’re in Colorado too…we’ll have to connect sometime on the trails! Thank you for sharing your experience and starting this thread, it was very helpful.
 

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And the bolt burn is still on my shoulder. I love it.
LOL, at least you have something to remember it by - way better than a tattoo. My dad kept telling me to wait before taking bolts out out all the way after showing him your branding 😆. It’s amazing how fast these mini induction heaters can get something red hot, the bracket even picked up some heat because I had that welded nut in the coil. Leather gloves were also key to prevent any injuries or branding/burning on my job lol. Alls well that ends well tho…thanks again brother
 
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We reinstalled with medium thread locker by hand and tightened the same way they were removed. The bolts were torqued to 48 ft lbs.
Hopefully @ShadowsPapa doesn't tell me my research on this torque spec was wrong or I just might have to do it all over again! I’m also a perfectionist @Summitdan & glad I didn’t try to reuse the existing bolt/threads 😆 the replacements are way better for the use case.
 
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Nice, I’ll have to ask them at Winter 4x4 Jamboree if they’ll hook me up. I noticed you’re in Colorado too…we’ll have to connect sometime on the trails! Thank you for sharing your experience and starting this thread, it was very helpful.
Any time. I’d like that. Where in CO? I’m in the mountains in Summit co.
 

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LOL, at least you have something to remember it by - way better than a tattoo. My dad kept telling me to wait before taking bolts out out all the way after showing him your branding 😆. It’s amazing how fast these mini induction heaters can get something red hot, the bracket even picked up some heat because I had that welded nut in the coil. Leather gloves were also key to prevent any injuries or branding/burning on my job lol. Alls well that ends well tho…thanks again brother
That’s very funny. I haven’t used an induction heater for this, but from your photos it was perfect for this. It might need to be added to my list. :)
 
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Hopefully @ShadowsPapa doesn't tell me my research on this torque spec was wrong or I just might have to do it all over again! I’m also a perfectionist @Summitdan & glad I didn’t try to reuse the existing bolt/threads 😆 the replacements are way better for the use case.
Completely agree. Since it was one of two per bracket, and a nut was added under the bracket, I wasn’t as worried about torque spec as I usually am. But I was also mad and had a burn on my shoulder, and my wife was still laughing, so maybe there were other factors. :)
 

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Dan, enjoy your “branding” with the bolt. I cut off a 1/4” bolt head on my 1946 CJ2A in about 1979, the bolt head was real hot , it dropped hit my arm and was there a while, used pliers to get it off, so after over 43 years, I still have a faint outline of the bolt head on my arm! So enjoy your real Badge of Honor and show your grandkids someday……Jack
BC217965-7209-402B-A117-5FA175C7C59E.jpeg
 
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Dan, enjoy your “branding” with the bolt. I cut off a 1/4” bolt head on my 1946 CJ2A in about 1979, the bolt head was real hot dropped hit my arm and was there a while, used pliers to get it off, so after over 43 years, I still have a faint outline of the bolt head on my arm! So enjoy your real Badge of Honor and show your grandkids someday……Jack
BC217965-7209-402B-A117-5FA175C7C59E.jpeg
Love it.
 

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Hopefully @ShadowsPapa doesn't tell me my research on this torque spec was wrong or I just might have to do it all over again! I’m also a perfectionist @Summitdan & glad I didn’t try to reuse the existing bolt/threads 😆 the replacements are way better for the use case.
This is in fun here - (sort of)

You likely know that there are torque specs for new parts, initial or virgin assembly - then service torque specs where you check and re-torque............
So, gee, what do we do here?

Whatever works, I guess. It's not an engine or transmission.
If you were wrong, it will either come loose or you'll break the bolt. You get another bolt and go from there.
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