500 mile on ODO

[pvn.jt24]

So, in previous vehicles usually this is that first point to do the first oil change.

Is this necessary for the JT?

Also, is everyone running 0w-20? Or has anyone switched to 5w-30?

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[PuddleJumper]

No, 500 mile oil change is not necessary, diffs are fine too. I don't know anyone running 5w-30 or why they would bother. Around 2500 rpm the suckers output 70+ psi. Thats plenty of lube.

 

[pvn.jt24]

No, 500 mile oil change is not necessary, diffs are fine too. I don't know anyone running 5w-30 or why they would bother. Around 2500 rpm the suckers output 70+ psi. Thats plenty of lube.

Diffs won’t need any servicing until I’m sitting close to 30k intervals from what it seems.

0w-20 was what I used to run in my Tundra too until I had switch to 5w-30 which made the truck run much smoother.

Ultimately, I’m thinking of using Amsoil 5w-30 since I know many people use it instead of 0w-20. From my knowledge, 0w-20 is way too thin to properly lubricate engine components and it was made just for “fuel efficiency” purposes.

 

[TinMan2020]

Diffs won’t need any servicing until I’m sitting close to 30k intervals from what it seems.

0w-20 was what I used to run in my Tundra too until I had switch to 5w-30 which made the truck run much smoother.

Ultimately, I’m thinking of using Amsoil 5w-30 since I know many people use it instead of 0w-20. From my knowledge, 0w-20 is way too thin to properly lubricate engine components and it was made just for “fuel efficiency” purposes.

Edit: I misread this at first.

I’ve always heard of the 500 mile oil change but personally I have never bothered. I am religious about changing oil every 5,000 miles when using synthetic.

 

[chr15m]

Diffs won’t need any servicing until I’m sitting close to 30k intervals from what it seems.

0w-20 was what I used to run in my Tundra too until I had switch to 5w-30 which made the truck run much smoother.

Ultimately, I’m thinking of using Amsoil 5w-30 since I know many people use it instead of 0w-20. From my knowledge, 0w-20 is way too thin to properly lubricate engine components and it was made just for “fuel efficiency” purposes.

"From my knowledge, 0w-20 is way too thin to properly lubricate engine components and it was made just for “fuel efficiency” purposes."

That's a confident statement, the motor is warrantied at that weight, not at 5w-30. While you may have no issues directly related to the change to 5w-30, you will in any event that requires proof of proper/OEM standards of maintenance.

Opting for a 5w over a 0w in a place like New England may also not be the best choice for winter driving.

The belief that oil weights being too low on viscosity seems to be dissonant of the mobility of a lighter weight oil. Again, not necessarily catastrophic, but opting to one or the other requires ignorance of the downsides to the other. Opting for the non OEM standard is ignorant in congruence with the risk of warranty denial. In short one carries a single assumed risk (0w-20), the other carries a different assumed risk with a plausible warranty denial risk (5w-30).

The vast vast majority of owners are not on this forum, the vast vast majority of those owners follow routine schedules and don't do the work themselves. There is no harm in waiting more than 500 miles for the first oil change. Half the OEM recommended timeframe seems to be prevailing on the forum, 5k.

I've also owned Tundras, 2 actually, logging over 120k miles on them, using 0w-20 the whole time without a hiccup. But as you already know from experience yourself with your Tundra, there are undoubtedly people running 5w-30 without issues. It for me though ultimately comes down to the risk of warranty denial in the cast of an event. YMMV

If you want more though, in short though, there was no significant difference:
His summary "My suggestion is to just run the oil that is called for by the manufacturer just to be safe"



Good luck and welcome to the forum.

 

[jac04]

I'll stay out of the oil weight debate.

IMO, it is always a good idea to perform early oil changes on both the engine and differentials.

For the engine, 500 miles is a bit early. I'd wait until 1000 - 1500 miles for the first change, then change at 5k intervals.

For the differentials, I'd do an early change at or before 2500 miles just to get rid of any manufacturing contaminants, especially of you have the factory electronic lockers. The locker sensors can get fouled by metallic contaminants.

 

[Greg_L]

Lotta people talk about oils and weights and intervals and pressure without knowing jack shit about how oil pressure actually works or what it's doing.

Did you design the engine? Did you actually machine any clearances? What's your rod bearing side clearance? Are you loose or tight on mains? It matters. If you don't know, then just use what the engine is designed for. Stop making things harder than they need to be. Use the right oil, change it somewhere around when it should be changed, and go on about your business. Nitpicking weights and viscosities will not give you any additional engine life.

10psi per 1000 RPM. That's all you need at minimum.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Diffs won’t need any servicing until I’m sitting close to 30k intervals from what it seems.

0w-20 was what I used to run in my Tundra too until I had switch to 5w-30 which made the truck run much smoother.

Ultimately, I’m thinking of using Amsoil 5w-30 since I know many people use it instead of 0w-20. From my knowledge, 0w-20 is way too thin to properly lubricate engine components and it was made just for “fuel efficiency” purposes.

amsoil anything is gonna be better imo even if you kept it 0w-20. Let us know how you like 5w-30 if you make the switch. will be interesting to see what it helps and what the drawbacks are.

 

[Hootbro]

Path of least resistance should a warranty issue arise is to follow the owners manual recommendations to grade (0W-20) and spec (MS-6395). There is nothing wrong with this.

That being said, I and many others have used 5W-30 or even 5W-40 without detriment.

As to other fluids like the differentials and transfer case, I can tell you from experience that many times they come with a minimum service fill and not a full service fill and it would be a good idea to check and top them off as necessary. The transmissions generally come filled properly.

Lastly, you started an oil thread. So whatever you do, you are going to being doing it wrong to somebody.

Do not overthink it playing engineer.

 

[smlobx]

So, in previous vehicles usually this is that first point to do the first oil change.

Is this necessary for the JT?

Also, is everyone running 0w-20? Or has anyone switched to 5w-30?

I built a home for the head of R&D for a company that supplies the additive packages to the many of the major oil companies to use in their oils. He is a real gear head and is now a great friend. When I bought my first Porsche I asked him what is the best way to break in an engine.

He said that manufacturers don’t use break in oil anymore due to improvements in machining etc. BUT you should do your first oil change before you reach 2000 miles. Then the second at 5000 miles and every 5K from then on. So that’s what I have done in all our vehicles.

Yes, your engine will last if you follow the manufacturers advise but their responsibility is to get you through the warranty period, not to prolong the life of the engine.

As far as oil weight is concerned I have done a lot of reading and decided to use 5W-30 full synthetic. The difference between a “0W” and a 5W oil is almost minuscule as technically there is no such thing as a true 0W oil, most are actually a 2 or 3 W oil but for marketing purposes it’s marketed as a 0W, according to my friend.

Living where I do in the mid Atlantic our winters are pretty mild. If I lived in MN where it may stay below zero for days at a time I may run a 0W in the winter.

I also usually have a fair amount of weight in my truck and things can get pretty warm particularly in the summer so I like the added protection of a 30W oil. The manufacturers are striving to meet their CAFE standards and if going to a lighter weight oil will improve their mileage by 0.01mpg they do it…just like the stop/start feature that is also short sighted.

These discussions always run the gamut of opinions so do what ever you feel like doing.

 

[Vincent]

Just my .02...
2020 Sport S w/200,000mi. on the clock with pretty routine changes @ approx. 3,500 mi. using mostly 0w20 in the winters and 5w30 in the summers. I use AMSOIL and/or Valvoline EP, but have used others but always come back to either AMSOIL or Valvoline brands. I usually use Mopar filters but have used others as well, if not in stock.
As far as the diffs, once a year change, using Valvoline or Mobil.
Gas => 89 octane
Transmission, haven't touched it... and not going to. If she grenades I'll pop another one in.
If/when the engine goes, I'll find a shop to pop another one...
Last Jeep I'll ever own.

 

[pvn.jt24]

Definitely appreciate all the in depth responses. I’m not here to start any debate on which oil is best.

I actually ran 0w-20 in my Tundra only until recently when I did the switch and noticed the improvements. It’s not to say that I’m going to immediately switch over. But just trying to grasp a feel for those who have switched over to see if they have had any good responses.

But I’ll take all your guys advice and change oil around 1k and intervals of 5k after (which I’ve done religiously on all my vehicles).

 

[Minty JL]

OEM 0w20 w/OEM Mopar filer and did my first oil change at like 1800 miles before a long trip up to Maine; every 5,000 since then.

Simplicity is the name of the game unless you have some insider knowledge.

 

[pvn.jt24]

OEM 0w20 w/OEM Mopar filer and did my first oil change at like 1800 miles before a long trip up to Maine; every 5,000 since then.

Simplicity is the name of the game unless you have some insider knowledge.

Yeah, I’m eventually thinking of swapping out the OEM oil cooler for the Mishimoto aluminum oil cooler as well.

 

[Minty JL]

Yeah, I’m eventually thinking of swapping out the OEM oil cooler for the Mishimoto aluminum oil cooler as well.

Mishi also has a nice teams cooler as well. I have worked with them in the past when the JLs first came up and I did some Beta testing for them

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