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7" radio subwoofer and amp addition

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Tuning frequency is based on the sub I can get ports that are about 2 inches and about 8 inches long. The end user can cut the tube down to the desired frequency range based on the sub they are using. Then you put some glue or sealant and few screws to secure everything. I'll post a link in a minute
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Forgot to add if I can get slow boat shipping for around $25 I can sell these for $125 a piece sealed or ported.

Also these do not require removal of anything but the storage tray.
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Tuning frequency is based on the sub I can get ports that are about 2 inches and about 8 inches long. The end user can cut the tube down to the desired frequency range based on the sub they are using. Then you put some glue or sealant and few screws to secure everything. I'll post a link in a minute
The port length of 8 inches is going to only net you a tuned frq of 47hz and a lot of port noise at that size. If you cut it down it will only be higher.

I believe a slot port will be much better along the wall of the enclosure at these box dimensions. I have modeled subs for years and designed enclosures for pro audio companies. I also owned a car audio store 10 years ago. That box is going to be a rough sounding enclosure. You can elongate it and get a lot more from it. Just a friendly observation.
 
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The port length of 8 inches is going to only net you a tuned frq of 47hz and a lot of port noise at that size. If you cut it down it will only be higher.

I believe a slot port will be much better along the wall of the enclosure at these box dimensions. I have modeled subs for years and designed enclosures for pro audio companies. I also owned a car audio store 10 years ago. That box is going to be a rough sounding enclosure. You can elongate it and get a lot more from it. Just a friendly observation.

You are 100% correct. I'm just trying to come up with a reasonable and cost effective solution. I can certainly build it with a slot, but just not at that price considering the extra labor. I personally would (and did) get a sub that works in a sealed enclosure.

If someone wants a ported or slotted version, first I would need to know which sub they are using and then we can go from there.

The goal is to give a more cost effective solution without having to alter the vehicle other than remove the storage tray. This is definitely not for someone who wants massive base. This type of solution will give you sufficient low to the existing audio system or a low powered aftermarket system.

Thanks for the feedback I appreciate the advise.
 

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Running some calculations for ports and slots I'm gonna recommend to keep this box sealed. I might be able to get around d 44 or 45 hz with a slot and as stated above 47 or 48 with a port, but I'm thinking the dimensions of that slot it will still sound kinda crappy. I hadn't taken the time run the port numbers until this morning. Sorry for the misinformation.
 

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For those much more knowledgeable than I, would 10” or 8” facing up sound better than a 6.5 facing forward?
 
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For those much more knowledgeable than I, would 10” or 8” facing up sound better than a 6.5 facing forward?
It's really dependent on air space available 10's typically sound better than 8's and they typically sound better than 6.5.
It's also depends on your preference more bass typically means move air if you are looking for mega bass than the ground shaker enclosure is what you want

For me I have kids who sit in the rear and there would be no way forward facing subs would last, so I had to go with firing up or down and with brackets for the storage tray already on the floor I went with firing up.

Hope that helps
 

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It's really dependent on air space available 10's typically sound better than 8's and they typically sound better than 6.5.
It's also depends on your preference more bass typically means move air if you are looking for mega bass than the ground shaker enclosure is what you want

For me I have kids who sit in the rear and there would be no way forward facing subs would last, so I had to go with firing up or down and with brackets for the storage tray already on the floor I went with firing up.

Hope that helps
thanks!

I’m giving a shot at building my own box. I have the volume/dimensions worked out, I already have an amp (300w rms at 4 ohms or 500w rms at 2 ohms) but need a smaller sub. I can either go with 1 Memphis mojo 6.5 https://www.woofersetc.com/memphis-mjm644-6-5-700w-rms-dual-4-ohm-mojo-series-subwoofers.html (rated for 700w rms) facing forward, or 2 6.5s (skar or Rockville) facing forward or 1 8” facing up, maybe this kappa https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_125245_Infinity-KAPPA-800W.html
 
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thanks!

I’m giving a shot at building my own box. I have the volume/dimensions worked out, I already have an amp (300w rms at 4 ohms or 500w rms at 2 ohms) but need a smaller sub. I can either go with 1 Memphis mojo 6.5 https://www.woofersetc.com/memphis-mjm644-6-5-700w-rms-dual-4-ohm-mojo-series-subwoofers.html (rated for 700w rms) facing forward, or 2 6.5s (skar or Rockville) facing forward or 1 8” facing up, maybe this kappa https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_125245_Infinity-KAPPA-800W.html
The money you are spending you may want to check digital design audio and sundown audio for a sub that meets you specifics. If money was no object and I could make the specs work I always like sundown their stuff is amazing.
 

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I think with the sundown 6.5 you would need slotted box I don't think they recommend sealed but I have heard that sub in the right enclosure destroy a lot of 8 and 10's
 

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Honestly I'd love to see a proper fiberglass or molded sub box with proper airspace for these trucks. Remove the cargo tray and get 2 cubes for some 12s that would be perfect.
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