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Bandit’s Lair

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So my understanding on air systems is VERY limited. Tell me if I’m on the right track.
A system that is rated for 200psi @ the tank. In order for that to actuate components rated for lower psi they have to pass through a regulator. In other words, if I have components A-D where A&B require 100 psi each, and components C&D require 50 psi each, there would have to be a connection to the tank running to 2 regulators. 1 at 100psi and a second to 50 psi. From there they connect to a Solenoid for each component. Solenoids would then be activated by individual switches somewhere in the cab. Does all that sound correct?
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So my understanding on air systems is VERY limited. Tell me if I’m on the right track.
A system that is rated for 200psi @ the tank. In order for that to actuate components rated for lower psi they have to pass through a regulator. In other words, if I have components A-D where A&B require 100 psi each, and components C&D require 50 psi each, there would have to be a connection to the tank running to 2 regulators. 1 at 100psi and a second to 50 psi. From there they connect to a Solenoid for each component. Solenoids would then be activated by individual switches somewhere in the cab. Does all that sound correct?
It sounds to me like you got the hang of it. When I ran my onboard air years ago with a York 210 engine driven compressor, I had a separate remote tank with a check valve and my solenoids were mounted directly on the tank, then wired up to the switches I had in the cab. I probably should have had more than one regulator, but I was younger and much more carefree back then 🤣
 
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It sounds to me like you got the hang of it. When I ran my onboard air years ago with a York 210 engine driven compressor, I had a separate remote tank with a check valve and my solenoids were mounted directly on the tank, then wired up to the switches I had in the cab. I probably should have had more than one regulator, but I was younger and much more carefree back then 🤣
Thanks. I’ll probably hit up one of the shops here and go through it with them. Just didn’t want to look like a total crazy guy going in to ask. 😂
 

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You are definitely on track. I run my ARB twin just at its factory set psi. Their locker is fine with it. I use a 1/2 gallon tank mounted underneath just for a little extra capacity filling paddle boards or tires. I'm curious what components you need to knock psi down for?
 

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You are definitely on track. I run my ARB twin just at its factory set psi. Their locker is fine with it. I use a 1/2 gallon tank mounted underneath just for a little extra capacity filling paddle boards or tires. I'm curious what components you need to knock psi down for?
I don't even have a tank and fill paddle boards and kayaks just fine.
 

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You are definitely on track. I run my ARB twin just at its factory set psi. Their locker is fine with it. I use a 1/2 gallon tank mounted underneath just for a little extra capacity filling paddle boards or tires. I'm curious what components you need to knock psi down for?
Looking to run front and rear lockers and considering going with sway locks front and rear on an air actuation setup. I’m still looking into tank mounts for under the bed/body but the AccuAir tank setup caught my eye on the grounds of protection and location. There are other components going along with this but that’s the main ones as far as an air system are concerned. I really don’t want the compressor or anything else air related inside the cab. Been there, done that, not my preference.
 

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Looking to run front and rear lockers and considering going with sway locks front and rear on an air actuation setup. I’m still looking into tank mounts for under the bed/body but the AccuAir tank setup caught my eye on the grounds of protection and location. There are other components going along with this but that’s the main ones as far as an air system are concerned. I really don’t want the compressor or anything else air related inside the cab. Been there, done that, not my preference.
Part of the reason I run the small tank is compressor cycling. When im only using my locker my compressor rarely cycles. If we are filling paddle boards or airing up obviously I have a compressor cycling. I have my arb mounted under my passenger seat, just because I didn't want it in the elements under the jeep, or in the engine compartment. I could upsize my tank and reduce cycling even more if I wanted as It can be annoying to listen to if your in the jeep, but its a trade off I was willing to make.
 
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I’m still shopping around. I’d like just the tank under the Jeep and the compressor under the bed cap in the bed. That would be optimal. That way I dont have to hear it at all. The sway locs have constant pressure when Disconnected so any time off road it’s going to be under pressure. This works for me because that also the only time I’d be using my compressor for lockers. I’d also like a tank mount that is fairly protected. It’s at risk under the vehicle so having at least 1/8-1/4” of protection is my requirement. Realistically it probably wouldn’t get hit but the chance is always there.
 

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This was the key to getting the air pressure regulated to lower pressure devices attached to a tank but it was discontinued. I've tried looking for something similar but haven't come up with anything unfortunately.
Jeep Gladiator Air System- School Me 1785430153034-8j
 

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This was the key to getting the air pressure regulated to lower pressure devices attached to a tank but it was discontinued. I've tried looking for something similar but haven't come up with anything unfortunately.
1785430153034-8j.webp
I’ve been looking for some sort of “distribution block” type component that can accomplish what I need. Figure I’ll try to find something with about 4 outlets that can be turned to the pressures I want. I figure the tank has a few different outlets and if my distribution block has multiple outlets I can air power pretty darned near anything I’d need to. I think it’s called a diaphragm? May have the terminology wrong.
 

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I’m still shopping around. I’d like just the tank under the Jeep and the compressor under the bed cap in the bed. That would be optimal. That way I dont have to hear it at all. The sway locs have constant pressure when Disconnected so any time off road it’s going to be under pressure. This works for me because that also the only time I’d be using my compressor for lockers. I’d also like a tank mount that is fairly protected. It’s at risk under the vehicle so having at least 1/8-1/4” of protection is my requirement. Realistically it probably wouldn’t get hit but the chance is always there.
My old setup was a 12 gallon tank mounted against the bulkhead in the bed. I routed all lines through the frame to stay mostly protected. Granted this was in days of old and nights of bold… 🤣 It took a lot of doing on my part to retro-fit and make work - But that York 210 would fill that 12 gallon tank in 2 minutes flat 😳 Much older vehicle though and plenty more room for shenanigans.
 

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I’ve been looking for some sort of “distribution block” type component that can accomplish what I need. Figure I’ll try to find something with about 4 outlets that can be turned to the pressures I want. I figure the tank has a few different outlets and if my distribution block has multiple outlets I can air power pretty darned near anything I’d need to. I think it’s called a diaphragm? May have the terminology wrong.
A big truck and trailer supply shop would more than likely have what you’re after. That’s where I got a lot of the air parts for my old rig. If not, some sites that sell air-ride parts for street trucks have distribution blocks or manifolds.
 

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When I get around to the rear winch bumper build, I plan th use rectangular tubing for the bumper... I'll seal it and use that as an air reservoir.
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