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Alignment Issue

Gren71

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good thread! I look forward to you figuring this out OP. Ive had the same pull to the right and am hoping the track bar helps. Im also looking at adjustable control arms.
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Take your stabilizer off and drive without it and see if it fixes the issue. I drove around for 3 days without mine installed to see how it drove without it after my lift, tires and alignment was done. Just something I do to see if anything else needs to be dialed in. A well dial in Jeep will drive great without a stabilizer installed. I drove my JKU for 6 months with a busted stabilizer and didn't even feel a difference in how it drove.
 

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The only real way to change caster is with adjustable control arms, either shortening the upper or lengthening the lower. However, you should not need any more parts if you installed the lift properly and FCA welded the axle and suspension brackets correctly. Did you ensure the Lift kit springs and other components were installed on the correct side/corner? They are specific.

The easiest way to check the stabilizer is to remove it and go for a drive. I’m a big fan of the Falcon stabilizer, but throwing parts at it is a mistake until you figure out what is going on. Best of luck!
 
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The only real way to change caster is with adjustable control arms, either shortening the upper or lengthening the lower. However, you should not need any more parts if you installed the lift properly and FCA welded the axle and suspension brackets correctly. Did you ensure the Lift kit springs and other components were installed on the correct side/corner? They are specific.

The easiest way to check the stabilizer is to remove it and go for a drive. I’m a big fan of the Falcon stabilizer, but throwing parts at it is a mistake until you figure out what is going on. Best of luck!
I was quite meticulous about ensuring the springs went in the correct place. However, it is certainly worth me taking the time to check them again. I’ll do that later today when I get home.
 

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In reality, this is no fault of the Mopar lift, it's that 3/4" spacer that threw the caster off. I have the Mopar lift in as designed and my JT drives great. I have no complaints. drives straight on a flat road with my hands off the wheel.

You can take out that 3/4" spacer, or do the adjustable arms. That's really all there is. Also, when the person doing the alignment makes any kind of adjustment, they need to turn the wheels back/forth and then check again. They can't just make a toe adjustment until it's green and then drive it off. Especially with larger tires on.
 

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Just curious, did you measure the actual amount of lift front and rear you got? It's interesting that even with the longer LCA's from the Mopar kit that your caster was so low. I wouldn't have thought the extra 3/4" spacer would have made that much of a difference but maybe it did. Any ways, thanks for sharing.
 

j.o.y.ride

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Really should be doing adjustable links when you lift or exactly this will happen. Check the Clayton kits. I'm holding off on my lift until I can get my hands on some parts from them.
 

j.o.y.ride

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Everyone talking about getting an 'alignment' when using non adjustable parts... there really isnt anything TO align. It kinda is what it is given the parts you have in there. If you keep your stock arms and such and lift with just springs or spacers, everything will shift to accommodate the new equilibrium. If you don't want that, don't do a basic lift that can't adjust.

Do the MOPAR kits come set to the correct new lengths, I hope? Given it's factory I would *think* they at least make the corrective lengths built into the kit even if it isn't adjustable.
 

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j.o.y.ride

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After the long drive today I can say that the left crowning road either straightened it out or pulled slightly left depending on how steep the crown was.

When I got home today I installed the adjustable track bar to center the axle. I also loosened and re-torqued the front UCA and LCA. I can't say I noticed a difference in the pull after doing that. I still need to do the rear, but I'm doubtful that would solve the issue.

At some point after the holiday I'll bring it in to get the alignment checked again to see if the loosening and re-torquing did anything to the caster. Then go from there.

I'm still wondering how to adjust my camber as I feel like that is the bigger issue in terms of the pull. Anyone have anything on this?
I spoke to one of the Clayton owners at good length when trying to sort out which kit to go with. Basically, if you are throwing in one part while the others are locked down it can keep things bound up that would have slackened and adjusted back. It's not a bad idea to slacken everything and then torque in the proper sequence to be sure everything is in the right spot.

So to their point, if you put the track bar in while everything else is locked down, it's quite possible it isn't doing all it is supposed to do because some things were too tight to adjust to where they ideally would be. If that makes sense.

Also another reason to just do it all at once the right way instead of chasing solutions to the next problem that arises.
 

kelkolb

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Everyone talking about getting an 'alignment' when using non adjustable parts... there really isnt anything TO align. It kinda is what it is given the parts you have in there. If you keep your stock arms and such and lift with just springs or spacers, everything will shift to accommodate the new equilibrium. If you don't want that, don't do a basic lift that can't adjust.

Do the MOPAR kits come set to the correct new lengths, I hope? Given it's factory I would *think* they at least make the corrective lengths built into the kit even if it isn't adjustable.
Mopar kit comes with new LCA’s but they are fixed length. His problem is the additional spacer he added so now the caster is off again.
 

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Ya know, I've been thinking about this because while I replaced the lowers, I did not loosen the uppers. Additionally, per directions I torqued them down while lifted rather than under the weight of the vehicle. Of course, I'm not sure how I'll be able to torque it in the driveway without it being on the jack stands, but I can figure it out.

I do wonder how much of a difference that might make due to the bushings as you mentioned. It is a great idea in my opinion!
Use ramps, blocks, whatever, under all 4 wheels to give you the room you need, but make sure you set the parking brake and leave it in gear so it doesn't roll off on top of you!
 

j.o.y.ride

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Ya know, I've been thinking about this because while I replaced the lowers, I did not loosen the uppers. Additionally, per directions I torqued them down while lifted rather than under the weight of the vehicle. Of course, I'm not sure how I'll be able to torque it in the driveway without it being on the jack stands, but I can figure it out.

I do wonder how much of a difference that might make due to the bushings as you mentioned. It is a great idea in my opinion!
Pretty sure you need the droop to get it settled right, don't quote me on that but I don't think you'll get the results you want doing it on the flat pavement.
 

j.o.y.ride

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Mopar kit comes with new LCA’s but they are fixed length. His problem is the additional spacer he added so now the caster is off again.
Got it

So he's into the money for the MOPAR kit. Then the added spacers which throw things off, and now an adjustable track bar on top of the kit to try and get it back to correct.

This is exactly why Im going to do the adjustable Clayton parts from the start.
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