Gren71
Well-Known Member
good thread! I look forward to you figuring this out OP. Ive had the same pull to the right and am hoping the track bar helps. Im also looking at adjustable control arms.
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I was quite meticulous about ensuring the springs went in the correct place. However, it is certainly worth me taking the time to check them again. I’ll do that later today when I get home.The only real way to change caster is with adjustable control arms, either shortening the upper or lengthening the lower. However, you should not need any more parts if you installed the lift properly and FCA welded the axle and suspension brackets correctly. Did you ensure the Lift kit springs and other components were installed on the correct side/corner? They are specific.
The easiest way to check the stabilizer is to remove it and go for a drive. I’m a big fan of the Falcon stabilizer, but throwing parts at it is a mistake until you figure out what is going on. Best of luck!
It’s hard to tell from the photo/description, but those look to have polyurethane bushings. In my opinion, standard polyurethane bushings wear out too quickly and can cause further issues down the road.looking at options on a couple site and found these inexpensive control arms on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Apoc-Adjusta...refix=jeep+gladiator+control+,aps,152&sr=8-29
I spoke to one of the Clayton owners at good length when trying to sort out which kit to go with. Basically, if you are throwing in one part while the others are locked down it can keep things bound up that would have slackened and adjusted back. It's not a bad idea to slacken everything and then torque in the proper sequence to be sure everything is in the right spot.After the long drive today I can say that the left crowning road either straightened it out or pulled slightly left depending on how steep the crown was.
When I got home today I installed the adjustable track bar to center the axle. I also loosened and re-torqued the front UCA and LCA. I can't say I noticed a difference in the pull after doing that. I still need to do the rear, but I'm doubtful that would solve the issue.
At some point after the holiday I'll bring it in to get the alignment checked again to see if the loosening and re-torquing did anything to the caster. Then go from there.
I'm still wondering how to adjust my camber as I feel like that is the bigger issue in terms of the pull. Anyone have anything on this?
Mopar kit comes with new LCA’s but they are fixed length. His problem is the additional spacer he added so now the caster is off again.Everyone talking about getting an 'alignment' when using non adjustable parts... there really isnt anything TO align. It kinda is what it is given the parts you have in there. If you keep your stock arms and such and lift with just springs or spacers, everything will shift to accommodate the new equilibrium. If you don't want that, don't do a basic lift that can't adjust.
Do the MOPAR kits come set to the correct new lengths, I hope? Given it's factory I would *think* they at least make the corrective lengths built into the kit even if it isn't adjustable.
Use ramps, blocks, whatever, under all 4 wheels to give you the room you need, but make sure you set the parking brake and leave it in gear so it doesn't roll off on top of you!Ya know, I've been thinking about this because while I replaced the lowers, I did not loosen the uppers. Additionally, per directions I torqued them down while lifted rather than under the weight of the vehicle. Of course, I'm not sure how I'll be able to torque it in the driveway without it being on the jack stands, but I can figure it out.
I do wonder how much of a difference that might make due to the bushings as you mentioned. It is a great idea in my opinion!
Pretty sure you need the droop to get it settled right, don't quote me on that but I don't think you'll get the results you want doing it on the flat pavement.Ya know, I've been thinking about this because while I replaced the lowers, I did not loosen the uppers. Additionally, per directions I torqued them down while lifted rather than under the weight of the vehicle. Of course, I'm not sure how I'll be able to torque it in the driveway without it being on the jack stands, but I can figure it out.
I do wonder how much of a difference that might make due to the bushings as you mentioned. It is a great idea in my opinion!
Got itMopar kit comes with new LCA’s but they are fixed length. His problem is the additional spacer he added so now the caster is off again.