Another Cam bites the dust...

[Stan H]

Do you add any friction modification to your oil? If it's friction that's killing the cams. Some of them say they go into the steel, really. Perhaps someday the valves will be solenoid operated .

The going into the steel thing is FALSE snake oil BS. But if it weakens the steel well that may be considered going into the steel but it is actually grabbing ahold of microscopic cracks and nookes and crannies. the only way I can say that. Some compounds will adhere to a certain degree to the surface of the lobes but not go in ,but in an engine such as the VVL adding those (ZDDP is bad bad juju)
The friction modifiers are already in the additive packages of these new modern oil. That won't mess with the many sensors. I dont recall what they use to modify the friction but is different than what you think. It literally ate compounds that help to reduce the molecules of oil from degrading .

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[Stan H]

Do you add any friction modification to your oil? If it's friction that's killing the cams. Some of them say they go into the steel, really. Perhaps someday the valves will be solenoid operated .

No I do NOT add modifiers .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

No I do NOT add modifiers .

This is a comment on a video by the Motor Oil Geek -

 

[Stan H]

This is a comment on a video by the Motor Oil Geek -

Thats why I would never switch.. whats the old adage... if it works why fix it . Something like that. Only way I would is if they quit making what I use.
My salesperson for Amsoil told me that the signature series years ago was recommended by Amsoil for heavy use and high mileage engines and BEFORE they had there own high mileage oil that is what they used. So I went with it and stayed with it. I do however believe in Fuel additives though.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So I went with it and stayed with it. I do however believe in Fuel additives though.

Fuel additives, I get, and see, and can actually help reduce wear.

 

[KevinM60]

I agree, I bought a broken vehicle. I am pushing for a new engine as I am concerned about the metal through out all the bearings in the engine, especially this early in the vehicle's life. What a disappointment!

That was how the dealer justified replacing my first engine. I had the failed lifter and the dealer found metal contamination in the engine and got it approved. The dealers can get the swap authorized if they present it to Stellantis properly.

 

[smlobx]

Just came across this video yesterday looking Into the roughness of various engine surfaces and why some roughness is actually a good thing. I learned something watching this.

 

[PuddleJumper]

There's a theory floating around about this engine needing higher rpms regularly to avoid cam issues especially with the 2 stage oil pump. The idea is that trying to baby it too much is contributing to the failures. Did you drive it hard regularly? My 2023 JTM and my wife's 2022 JLUR are both driven hard often on big tires and we haven't had issues with 70k+ miles between the 2. Small samples size but I figure I'd ask.

Nope, babied it as per break-in instructions and after that used it for its intended purpose. Like you, I am in California so always going to the mountains and with the grades rpms are going to go up. When I was sure this was occurring, I was on a 45 day trip up in Idaho, Montana, and Oregon towing my 1500 lbs teardrop. Once I leave California, I am towing at 70 mph. During this trip, can't tell you how many mountains I crossed, but definitely up and down many grades. I really feel that I was sold a broken vehicle. The follower was probably screwed up from day one. When my 2014 JK went bad a few years back, I heard the moment the rocker gave out and drove 500 miles home and did the repair. The cam had very little material removed. This cam, on my 2024 Gladiator, had tons of material removed in comparison, in my opinion 7900 miles worth. It was not throwing codes at this point, but was not many miles from the point where the cam lobe would have been worn and the valves would not have been opening and closing as they should.

Break in? Did the dealer tell you that? While the internet swears up and down about break in period an everything. I've never found any supporting documentation from the FCA about it. Even in my owners manual the page tabbed for break in, is a blank page. And considering the DANA gear set in these have a coating ( burnished according to ShadowPapas) that also allows them to be run with no break in. I'm not saying to not do a break in. But i have 23' that i got at 0 miles odo. I now have 57k and I left the dealership smoking the rear tires. From my 19.8 NOBO camper, my boat, countless car hauls, u-hauls, over every surface, grade and trail. I haven't even ever gotten a check engine light. I'm gonna have to say that cam was fucked before you did anything.

 

[PuddleJumper]

How can you tell where the engine is from?

says on your window sticker. Mine is from mexico and its fine.

 

[Stan H]

How can you tell where the engine is from?

There is usually a little sticker on the top of most out of country made products .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Break in? Did the dealer tell you that? While the internet swears up and down about break in period an everything. I've never found any supporting documentation from the FCA about it. Even in my owners manual the page tabbed for break in, is a blank page. And considering the DANA gear set in these have a coating that also allows them to be run with no break in. I'm not saying to not do a break in. But i have 23' that i got at 0 miles odo. I now have 57k and I left the dealership smoking the rear tires. From my 19.8 NOBO camper, my boat, countless car hauls, u-hauls, over every surface, grade and trail. I haven't even ever gotten a check engine light. I'm gonna have to say that cam was fucked before you did anything.

It's in my owners manual. I'll find and post it later.

It's not a coating, they are factory burnished for production.

 

[Stan H]

Someone knows. Somewhere, there is a bad person or sub in the mix.

Would love to see this person or persons ferreted out !!

 

[PuddleJumper]

It's in my owners manual. I'll find and post it later.

It's not a coating, they are factory burnished for production.

noted and noted. Did you follow break in? if so did it seem adequate or overkill?

 

[Zachanadandy]

noted and noted. Did you follow break in? if so did it seem adequate or overkill?

I don't buy new vehicles to baby them. There's a 60k mile warranty. Send it. If it makes it past 60k clearly I didn't hurt it by driving it from day 1?

 

[smlobx]

Several years ago I built a custom vacation home for a guy that was in charge of the R&D for one of the few companies that make the additive packages for the major oil companies. We hade several great discussions about engines, horse power and break ins to name a few.

When I bought my first Porsche I called Ron up and asked him if what he told me a few years prior still held true and he said absolutely.

His professional advise was.. New production engines don’t come with a special, break ins oil anymore. However, there is ALWAYS some material in the engine that needs to be flushed out to prevent excessive scaring on the various mating surfaces. The first oil change should be done between 1000 and 2000 miles then the next one at no more than at the 5000 mile point then every 5K thereafter.
I have followed his advise in the dozen or so vehicles I bought and have never had an issue. YRMV.

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