Anyone else use this ATF in their Gladiator 8-speed?

[DanW]

I have 56k on the clock and if I remember I’ll take a sample and send it in for analysis…

I did mine yesterday and forgot to bring my sample kit. I had nothing that I could save a sample in that wasn´t contaminated. I hate that because I would have loved to get the results.

Oh well, maybe next time. I´m going to change it again at 90k or 100k.

All went well. It took 5.3 to 5.5 quarts. I am going to check the level again in a few hundred miles, but it is smooth and quiet and shifts beautifully, as it always has.

The old fluid looked dark. You could only see the green with the light passing through the drips. In the pan, you could not tell it was green. I´m very glad I went ahead with the change.

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[ShadowsPapa]

The old fluid looked dark. You could only see the green with the light passing through the drips. In the pan, you could not tell it was green. I´m very glad I went ahead with the change.

NORMAL. It doesn't stay green. Even after just a few hundred miles, the color will be changed.
Don't judge a fluid by the color. That's old school thinking (unless it's REALLY REALLY discolored!)

 

[DanW]

NORMAL. It doesn't stay green. Even after just a few hundred miles, the color will be changed.
Don't judge a fluid by the color. That's old school thinking (unless it's REALLY REALLY discolored!)

I know it is still serviceable. I was just describing what I saw. I do wish I had my sample kit and could send it in, though.

It was shifting and performing just fine. But that color means it was doing its job...carrying a load of crap in suspension. But I would not be comfortable putting another 20k on it, especially towing as frequently as I do. I think I changed it at the right time, at 60k.

The magnets had plenty of iron on them, too. Typical of what I have seen in YouTube videos...which means a lot. I feel better having those cleaned off, as well, ready for the next round.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

But that color means it was doing its job...carrying a load of crap in suspension.

No, it changes color very shortly............. It's not stuff in it, it's the normal color change of the chemicals with heat, etc.

Transmission fluid doesn't carry stuff in suspension. That's engine oil.
Transmission fluid is LOW detergent and is made to drop "crap" out of suspension to the pan.
The dark is a normal color change is what I'm saying. It will look like that after a few hundred miles and isn't any indication of anything other than the green fluid changes color.
Transmissions don't have true filters because the fluid is made to drop stuff out into the pan - so seeing stuff in the pan is expected and normal. You should see some of them I've worked on over the years - all normal, though.

The magnets will normally have particles on them due to the rough edges of gears that aren't burnished or polished. that's normal as well. It will subside after while. It normally happens in the first few thousand miles.

I think I changed it at the right time, at 60k.

If you tow quite a bit, yeah, I'd go with that.

 

[g2020]

I am just looking for ATF that will fix my hard reverse clunk. How about Liquid Molly or anything?

Revised on 9/22/25:

Hootbro has informed us, in post #233 below, that LIQUI MOLY claims that its TOP TEC ATF 1800 is compatible with BMW 83 22 2 289 720, which is the ATF used in BMW's ZF 8-speed automatic transmissions.

Thanks for the catch!

Here is the chain of (claimed) equivalence:
- The equivalence is claimed because TOP TEC ATF 1800, like any aftermarket ATF, is not ZF-approved

BMW ATF-3+ (part number 83 22 2 289 720)
- LIQUI MOLY claims that its TOP TEC ATF 1800, SKU 20032, is compatible with BMW 83 22 2 289 720
- BMW part number 83 22 2 289 720 has been superseded by BMW 83 22 5 A12 A00

BMW ATF 3+ (part number 83 22 5 A12 A00, or Oil No. 83225A12A00, as listed on ZF List of lubricants TE-ML 11; see item #1 in my post on ATF Equivalents)
- This BMW ATF is an exact equivalent to ZF LifeguardFluid 9

ZF LifeguardFluid 9 (ZF Part No. AA01.500.001 and ZF approval number ZF005946, as listed on ZF List of lubricants TE-ML 11; see item #1 in my post on ATF Equivalents)
- ZF is the licensor of each vehicle OEM ATF listed in this reply

MOPAR 8 & 9 Speed ATF (Stellantis Oil No. 68218925AB, as listed on ZF List of lubricants TE-ML 11; see item #1 in my post on ATF Equivalents)
- This MOPAR ATF is an exact equivalent to ZF LifeguardFluid 9

Original reply:

LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC ATF 1800, SKU 20032, does not show claimed equivalence to MOPAR 8 & 9 Speed ATF (part number 68218925AB) or ZF LifeguardFluid 9 (part number AA01.500.001, ZF approval number ZF005946). It does show equivalence to DEXRON VI and Toyota WS, but these are just related standards.

For a list of several prescreened ATF options, see the table in section 1.10.1 of my post on Links to Prices.

If your vehicle is still under the 5Y/60K mi drivetrain warranty, I recommend that you bring it to the dealer. If not, the safest option is either MOPAR 68218925AB or ZF LifeguardFluid 9.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Transmission fluid doesn't carry stuff in suspension.

The “load of crap” as @DanW has said and I’ve also said, and will agree to his wording, is what the lab would report as being in suspension. The labs wear numbers aren’t telling you what’s sitting on the bottom of the pan, those numbers measured in ppm is the wear metals (load of crap) that “in suspension” and is directly related to the cause and effect of more wear and tear.

The lab numbers we see, or rather, the wear metals in suspension isn’t just with engines, diffs, transfer case and power steering but is also found in the transmission. Why else would there be magnets in the transmission pan attracting the iron that’s in suspension if it would just fall out and lay on the bottom of the pan and stay there?

Is it possible you’re only commenting on clutch material that drops out and doesn’t circulate around and nothing else? In all your years of transmission tear downs and rebuilding, how often did you send oil samples away to the lab?

 

[Stan H]

I know it is still serviceable. I was just describing what I saw. I do wish I had my sample kit and could send it in, though.

It was shifting and performing just fine. But that color means it was doing its job...carrying a load of crap in suspension. But I would not be comfortable putting another 20k on it, especially towing as frequently as I do. I think I changed it at the right time, at 60k.

The magnets had plenty of iron on them, too. Typical of what I have seen in YouTube videos...which means a lot. I feel better having those cleaned off, as well, ready for the next round.

Where did you put the magnets on the inside or outside of the pan

 

[Hootbro]

LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC ATF 1800, SKU 20032, does not show claimed equivalence to MOPAR 8 & 9 Speed ATF (part number 68218925AB) or ZF LifeguardFluid 9 (part number AA01.500.001, ZF approval number ZF005946). It does show equivalence to DEXRON VI and Toyota WS, but these are just related standards.

LIQUI MOLY claims compatibility to BMW 83 22 2 289 720 spec which is the BMW ATF 3+ fluid that is used in their ZF 8 speeds.

Many of the Euro parts houses will bundle this fluid with their ZF 8 Speed fluid and filter kits

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The “load of crap” as @DanW has said and I’ve also said, and will agree to his wording, is what the lab would report as being in suspension. The labs wear numbers aren’t telling you what’s sitting on the bottom of the pan, those numbers measured in ppm is the wear metals (load of crap) that “in suspension” and is directly related to the cause and effect of more wear and tear.

The lab numbers we see, or rather, the wear metals in suspension isn’t just with engines, diffs, transfer case and power steering but is also found in the transmission. Why else would there be magnets in the transmission pan attracting the iron that’s in suspension if it would just fall out and lay on the bottom of the pan and stay there?

Is it possible you’re only commenting on clutch material that drops out and doesn’t circulate around and nothing else? In all your years of transmission tear downs and rebuilding, how often did you send oil samples away to the lab?

Sorry, but no. ATF is LOW detergent. So you can't read it kike engine oil. Yes, there will be dissolved solids and such, but oil is made to carry things to a filter. ATF is not.
On the other hand, lads look only for things much finer than a filter will take out anyway.
But my point is. ..stop judging by color!!
Just don't do it.
As far as sending ATF samples to a lab?
LOL
Over rated. People get hung up on the wrong things.
You "just know" when doing hundreds
Besides, what are you going to do as an individual person?
It's not like we are fleet operators

 

[Stan H]

Sorry, but no. ATF is LOW detergent. So you can't read it kike engine oil. Yes, there will be dissolved solids and such, but oil is made to carry things to a filter. ATF is not.
On the other hand, lads look only for things much finer than a filter will take out anyway.
But my point is. ..stop judging by color!!
Just don't do it.
As far as sending ATF samples to a lab?
LOL
Over rated. People get hung up on the wrong things.
You "just know" when doing hundreds
Besides, what are you going to do as an individual person?
It's not like we are fleet operators

Ask not what Jeep can do for you ask what you can do for Jeep.
Color does change rapidly in any oil. Royal P. The reds and the blues All of it

 

[Stan H]

Ask not what Jeep can do for you ask what you can do for Jeep.
Color does change rapidly in any oil. Royal P. The reds and the blues All of it

@Maximus Gladius I will tell ya I have owned auto's for the last 38 yrs. Changed every fluid in every single truck, car,motorcycle etc.. its true but by and large in My years of changing trans fluids none hold a true color and in Motor oils of all I have ever used and I mean in diesels and gas motors Amsoil tows the line the best and holds on longer than any other. I am a little OCD so check all the time nothing has compared. I have Amsoil in my wife's Mitsubishi, in my BMW & my 1900cc yamaha V-Twin and my daughter's Kia and also in my Jeep..
I'm a believer

 

[DanW]

No, it changes color very shortly............. It's not stuff in it, it's the normal color change of the chemicals with heat, etc.

Transmission fluid doesn't carry stuff in suspension. That's engine oil.
Transmission fluid is LOW detergent and is made to drop "crap" out of suspension to the pan.
The dark is a normal color change is what I'm saying. It will look like that after a few hundred miles and isn't any indication of anything other than the green fluid changes color.
Transmissions don't have true filters because the fluid is made to drop stuff out into the pan - so seeing stuff in the pan is expected and normal. You should see some of them I've worked on over the years - all normal, though.

The magnets will normally have particles on them due to the rough edges of gears that aren't burnished or polished. that's normal as well. It will subside after while. It normally happens in the first few thousand miles.


If you tow quite a bit, yeah, I'd go with that.

Interesting.

It does stink compared to new fluid, so what's up with that?

 

[Stan H]

Interesting.

It does stink compared to new fluid, so what's up with that?

I say its the being cooked over and over

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Interesting.

It does stink compared to new fluid, so what's up with that?

Are you comparing the new RL to the stock MOPAR/ZF?

They will say "meets specs" or "is compatible" but can still have very different chemistries, leading to different smells. But that's just one explanation.
Many heating and cooling cycles, pressure, all will cause changes which can lead to a smell. Depending on the smell - could be normal used fluid, or could indicate it's "been hot".

The fluid AMC came up with, and Chrysler continued that spec for years, for the T5 manual transmission STUNK bad when new. Smelled like it was made up of ground up fish - fish oil, bad smell. That was when new. It mellowed with time (maybe the fish guts got burned out of it?)

If it's been too hot, there's a smell that goes along with that. No, it won't "smell hot" but will smell like ATF that's been hot.
One thing we used in diagnosing was the smell of the fluid. It won't be a burned smell, but will smell like fluid that's been hot and the only real way to know is to have smelled it a time or two - and be told "this fluid has been hot" and from then on, you'll recognize it. Sort of like I can tell if there's antifreeze getting into the combustion chamber by the smell of the exhaust - really hard to describe but once you know what it is, you know.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Interesting.

It does stink compared to new fluid, so what's up with that?

Let’s assume it got hot or even burnt, a lab test would provide data to show “something” not right. (I know you missed this chance to know) Would have even provided level of oxidation if asked for which non of us have this data yet. Maybe the smell is an indicator of that. But the question now on my mind is, that smelly dark oil was still up in the torque converter, now mixed in with the new oil… is it a good thing to ride that out for however long till your next pan drop? Labs are over rated, so I’m told and only Bill knows what burnt or hot oil smells like so how does that help the 99.9% of everyone else that doesn’t?

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