Anyone using a Dc to Dc charger for a second battery?

[OVRLND_G8R]

The manual specifically states that the dc charger and battery not be put in the same compartment because it could be a fire hazard but if you dont care, to each their own.

Agreed but some additional information is my battery is a LiFeSO4 battery, so it doesn’t have any gasses as it is sealed and also is not a “flammable material”. I’m no expert but I thought I was adhering to all the info in the manual. If I missed something please let me know.

Below is the what I was following from the manual

once again. I’m not an expert so I do appreciate the criticism and forcing me to circle back

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[bonediggy]

Well I've started with wiring that system (Renogy Dual Input DC-DC 30A) in mine to charge the LiPo battery to run my fridge freezer and other stuff, right now it's just powering my radio. I've not hooked it in to Jeep electric system yet. It would have been done a few days back but I've been tied up with some other problems as of late.
A big thanks to "Dan G. Of the road chose me" who is a member here. I was about to install a different company solar charge controller MPPT type. "It will be going into my RV now"
The trigger wire needs to be hooked to a engine running circuit only it's recommended to not be the 12 v power port due to being on in acc mode too. As you have found out. I'm thinking about trying to use the 5th wire from Aux switch group in cab as a test to save me from needing to run another wire up to engine compartment.

I am thinking of buying a Renogy 60amp dc to dc charger to charge 2 battleborn 100 amp hour batteries in my airstream. How did your install go? Was it difficult? I have not used any of my aux switches in the gladiator. Are you able to use one of these?

 

[chorky]

I am thinking of buying a Renogy 60amp dc to dc charger to charge 2 battleborn 100 amp hour batteries in my airstream. How did your install go? Was it difficult? I have not used any of my aux switches in the gladiator. Are you able to use one of these?

the problem with this is you will have to run a huge cable cause thats a ling run from your engine battery to your trailer. Your looking at a 4 ga wire minimum. Maybe even 2 or 1/0.

for reference for the dc/dc I am putting in the bed will be using a 6ga wire.

 

[bsteg7]

I am thinking of buying a Renogy 60amp dc to dc charger to charge 2 battleborn 100 amp hour batteries in my airstream. How did your install go? Was it difficult? I have not used any of my aux switches in the gladiator. Are you able to use one of these?

That's a big charger that will require big wire. Do you really need that much charging, how many Ah will you consume at a stop, how many charging hours (road time) between stops. Also, do you have a smart alternator, how may amps is it rated for? Do you want to add solar? Do you want an isolated or non-isolated DC to DC charger. Is Bluetooth important, is intra-device coms important? Some Victron chargers do not require a separate ignition sense lead, they just 'know' when your smart alternator is pumping amps. We run an SOK 100 Ah and we consume about 30 Ah per night. Off road we can charge 20-40 Ah per day. The smart alternator in the jeep rarely approaches 30A output, and that's only when coasting downhill.

 

[Blade1668]

I think mine is a 30 amp. The primary battery (s) that it's charging are about 2ft away from the charger with single 100w panel. I'm waiting for a 100 amp LiPo battery to swap for 2 36 amp LiPo batteries I'm currently using. I've got a second 100 w panel (for portable use) and plan on a second 100 panel to mount next to current one.
It's secondary charging the starter battery system. I've got the cascade 85 watt system charging the starter battery system too. I've got enough heavy gauge wires running underneath my JT now, but they are only powered when I want or need them energized.

 

[chorky]

I think mine is a 30 amp.

gotta be careful with these ratings though. For example redarc manager 30 outputs up to 30a to charge. But it can draw up to 60a. So if you built wires based on 30a not expecting up to a 60a draw that could cause a smokey situation.

 

[Free2roam]

Mine will eventually be 4 100watt Renogy panels 2 100ah Renogy LiFePo4 batteries. Two mounted to the top of camper to charge while driving and keep refrigerator freezer running. Get to camp pull out the 200 watt suitcase and plug it in to make 400 watts total. I just don't want to have to mess with the Jeep electrical system. Ran through a 40a Renogy MPPT controller. I hope it works ok?!

 

[Blade1668]

gotta be careful with these ratings though. For example redarc manager 30 outputs up to 30a to charge. But it can draw up to 60a. So if you built wires based on 30a not expecting up to a 60a draw that could cause a smokey situation.

I've always been one to build at overkill level especially when wiring. The uses for "house" battery is running fridge freezer, LED lights, radio, cell phone charger and flashlight charger. No toaster, microwave or welders. just low draw stuff but will probably be adding water pump and diesel heater in future. Plus I fuze all the wiring at battery side.

 

[chorky]

I've always been one to build at overkill level especially when wiring. The uses for "house" battery is running fridge freezer, LED lights, radio, cell phone charger and flashlight charger. No toaster, microwave or welders. just low draw stuff but will probably be adding water pump and diesel heater in future. Plus I fuze all the wiring at battery side.

I do the same. However wiring need for the charger itself does not relate to what you are using the battery for. So you have a circuit for things like lights, fridge, etc. but the DC/DC charger has its own specific wire going to it from the alternator or main starting battery. That wire needs to support a lot of amps. Even if your DC/DC charger says it only puts out a max of 30a to the house battery it can easily pull twice that from the starting battery in order to make the charge. Its not a super efficient process. Combine that with a 25 foot wire run and your talking serious wire needs.

here are some quotes directly from the install manual of redarc manager30
”The Manager30 is capable of drawing up to 50 A from the Vehicle Battery (which may be several feet/ meters from its installation location) and is limited to 30 A output to the House Battery. The installer needs to ensure the appropriate cable is used to connect the positive and negative connections of The Manager30 to both the Vehicle Battery and the House Battery. “

redarc recomends for wire runs longer than 10’ the use of 6ga wire. This relates specifically to the wire that goes from the starting battery or alternator to the input of the manager30

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...nstruction_Manual_NA_English.pdf?v=1611292736


lots of people use wire not rated high enough and it can risk a vehicle burning down. just a heads up.
the OP was talking about charging batteries in his trailer with a dc/dc charger. Unless im in the wrong thread lol

 

[Blade1668]

I do the same. However wiring need for the charger itself does not relate to what you are using the battery for. So you have a circuit for things like lights, fridge, etc. but the DC/DC charger has its own specific wire going to it from the alternator or main starting battery. That wire needs to support a lot of amps. Even if your DC/DC charger says it only puts out a max of 30a to the house battery it can easily pull twice that from the starting battery in order to make the charge. Its not a super efficient process. Combine that with a 25 foot wire run and your talking serious wire needs.

here are some quotes directly from the install manual of redarc manager30
”The Manager30 is capable of drawing up to 50 A from the Vehicle Battery (which may be several feet/ meters from its installation location) and is limited to 30 A output to the House Battery. The installer needs to ensure the appropriate cable is used to connect the positive and negative connections of The Manager30 to both the Vehicle Battery and the House Battery. “

redarc recomends for wire runs longer than 10’ the use of 6ga wire. This relates specifically to the wire that goes from the starting battery or alternator to the input of the manager30

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2...nstruction_Manual_NA_English.pdf?v=1611292736

lots of people use wire not rated high enough and it can risk a vehicle burning down. just a heads up.
the OP was talking about charging batteries in his trailer with a dc/dc charger. Unless im in the wrong thread lol

Some cheap buzzbox welders use the same guage of wire as I used but lower quality.
The wiring looks kinda jacked

The wiring does look jacked up but open to air and ventilation.

 

[smlobx]

I’ve read this thread with interest as I finished my electrical build out last year and thought I’d pass along my $0.02.

First off, I love Redarc products. We used them in Africa on several expeditions and so when it was my turn to build out the Glad I knew I wanted to use their products……. But….. I think the Manager 30 is both overkill and overpriced for what I (and probably everyone here reading this thread) needed. Instead I chose the BCDC 1240 and it has worked wonderfully. I also have to say that the guidance they provided me both online and when I called them was great. I used their charts to determine what size wire and fuses to use.

In my build I wanted to be able to stay out for weeks at a time and not worry about running out of power. I needed power for a fridge, water pump, and various 12 volt / USB chargers. I wanted to be able to be stationary for potentially up to a week although that would be rare as we tend to move almost daily.

I decided to use a single 100AH BattleBorn battery which is charged through the BCDC controller which is also capable of managing my 100W flexible solar panel when we’re stopped for several days. Last fall we were on a month long trip from VA to CO and UT at elevations over 12,000 feet and temps from 20 to 90 and we never skipped a beat.

If you sit down and use one of the many available online calculators to determine how large a system you’ll need you’ll probably find that a single 100AH Lithium battery and a single 100 W solar panel will keep you going just fine..

I did a write up about my Gladiator Expedition Vehicle on another forum and if you start at post 71 you can see some pictures of what I did electrically.

https://americanadventurist.com/forum/threads/meet-sherpah-my-gladiator-build.7090/page-4

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

As already mentioned, the #5 wire. Though I didn't hook that wire up for the 1st 8 months. Only reason I did was because I was already doing some other wiring and it didn't add much to my time to hook it up. My alternator really hasn't seemed to notice being hooked up or not. Yes, I have the Renogy battery monitor also.

Just FYI to All. This may be misleading. If like me you ran the battery cable and ign signal wires to the front together up under the hood be advised: THERE IS NO IGNITION (5th) WIRE IN THE AUX BUNDLE UNDER THE HOOD. This only exists in the passenger floor well.

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