Auto Tranny Odd Experience

[PuddleJumper]

So it was running fine until a couple nights ago in the rain at highway speeds. Popped several error codes, slowed itself to 50 and eventually made me park. Not sure what happened.

P1614
B1DN9
U1514-87
U4018
U0168
P2AF5

I basically did a master reboot of the tazer and the two cycles. Then turned traction control off and have been driving fine the last few days with it off. I don't however like having to have it off, any idea what could be causing this? Tazer firmware is only one behind current also.

lemme check those codes real quick

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[PuddleJumper]

So it was running fine until a couple nights ago in the rain at highway speeds. Popped several error codes, slowed itself to 50 and eventually made me park. Not sure what happened.

P1614
B1DN9
U1514-87
U4018
U0168
P2AF5

I basically did a master reboot of the tazer and the two cycles. Then turned traction control off and have been driving fine the last few days with it off. I don't however like having to have it off, any idea what could be causing this? Tazer firmware is only one behind current also.

Well I think I got ya sorted. I put each code and its meaning down and then explain possible causes. Then give ya my 2cents on what the actual problem is.

P1615 - ECU/TCM recovery reset occurred (this is caused by a low voltage or over voltage scenario and force reboots the ECU/TCM into recovery mode)

B1DN9 - Another code not in my matrix, Tazer like to misprint apparently. This a body code

U1514-87 - 1414? mistype? Also not in my code matrix, but -87 indicates a failure or canbus can no longer detect device (this can also be caused by a low voltage scenario)

U4018 - Invalid Data from Brake System Control Module ( this is the issue you get when your tire size isn't calibrated properly, and also can be caused by low or fluctuating voltage)

U0168 - Lost connection with Security Module ( this is from when you unplugged the security module and replaced it with a tazer, you can ignore this one. It will go away)

P2AF5 - Starter Relay stuck on (This an ESS issue, can be caused by a failing starter or low voltage)


Summary, worst case your ECU is trying to shit the bed. But I doubt this. My best guess especially with what I've seen on this forum, you have a failing or failed AUX battery and possibly a failing primary as well. In fact I'd bet money on it. The timing on when you installed stuff is most likely just a coincidence, not causation.

 

[BearFootSam]

Well I think I got ya sorted. I put each code and its meaning down and then explain possible causes. Then give ya my 2cents on what the actual problem is.

P1615 - ECU/TCM recovery reset occurred (this is caused by a low voltage or over voltage scenario and force reboots the ECU/TCM into recovery mode)

B1DN9 - Another code not in my matrix, Tazer like to misprint apparently. This a body code

U1514-87 - 1414? mistype? Also not in my code matrix, but -87 indicates a failure or canbus can no longer detect device (this can also be caused by a low voltage scenario)

U4018 - Invalid Data from Brake System Control Module ( this is the issue you get when your tire size isn't calibrated properly, and also can be caused by low or fluctuating voltage)

U0168 - Lost connection with Security Module ( this is from when you unplugged the security module and replaced it with a tazer, you can ignore this one. It will go away)

P2AF5 - Starter Relay stuck on (This an ESS issue, can be caused by a failing starter or low voltage)


Summary, worst case your ECU is trying to shit the bed. But I doubt this. My best guess especially with what I've seen on this forum, you have a failing or failed AUX battery and possibly a failing primary as well. In fact I'd bet money on it. The timing on when you installed stuff is most likely just a coincidence, not causation.

The stranger the codes and symptoms, without a discernable cause in these trucks is frequently a bad aux battery. The electronics get freaked out when voltage drops below a certain threshold.

OP's initial description presents like a TC engagement. Time to time around here when the loggers drop new gravel on the roads, there will be sections 8" deep, enough to make ruts passing through. When we are climbing one of the steep sections through this deep gravel, if I've neglected to turn off TC, it will feel like I'm losing grip/power and need to shift the transfer case into 4H. It's not 4H I need, it's to turn off the TC. Once that's done the chatter and slip go away because the TC is no longer pulling power to cut wheelspin when we want that bit of slip to keep powering up the grade.

Point is, the traction control system has a lot of control authority in the gladiator and when it triggers can present dramatically. If the battery is not where it's expected this cascades through the systems and causes unusual symptoms.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

So it was running fine until a couple nights ago in the rain at highway speeds. Popped several error codes

Perhaps a ground or water short problem in a connection??

 

[PuddleJumper]

The stranger the codes and symptoms, without a discernable cause in these trucks is frequently a bad aux battery. The electronics get freaked out when voltage drops below a certain threshold.

OP's initial description presents like a TC engagement. Time to time around here when the loggers drop new gravel on the roads, there will be sections 8" deep, enough to make ruts passing through. When we are climbing one of the steep sections through this deep gravel, if I've neglected to turn off TC, it will feel like I'm losing grip/power and need to shift the transfer case into 4H. It's not 4H I need, it's to turn off the TC. Once that's done the chatter and slip go away because the TC is no longer pulling power to cut wheelspin when we want that bit of slip to keep powering up the grade.

Point is, the traction control system has a lot of control authority in the gladiator and when it triggers can present dramatically. If the battery is not where it's expected this cascades through the systems and causes unusual symptoms.

That was/is my understanding as well on top of it being severely compounded with larger diameter tires than the system is programmed for

 

[PuddleJumper]

Perhaps a ground or water short problem in a connection??

It will run fine when ever the truck is actually on, because alternator will meet voltage requirements.

 

[crmarczak]

Well I think I got ya sorted. I put each code and its meaning down and then explain possible causes. Then give ya my 2cents on what the actual problem is.

P1615 - ECU/TCM recovery reset occurred (this is caused by a low voltage or over voltage scenario and force reboots the ECU/TCM into recovery mode)

B1DN9 - Another code not in my matrix, Tazer like to misprint apparently. This a body code

U1514-87 - 1414? mistype? Also not in my code matrix, but -87 indicates a failure or canbus can no longer detect device (this can also be caused by a low voltage scenario)

U4018 - Invalid Data from Brake System Control Module ( this is the issue you get when your tire size isn't calibrated properly, and also can be caused by low or fluctuating voltage)

U0168 - Lost connection with Security Module ( this is from when you unplugged the security module and replaced it with a tazer, you can ignore this one. It will go away)

P2AF5 - Starter Relay stuck on (This an ESS issue, can be caused by a failing starter or low voltage)


Summary, worst case your ECU is trying to shit the bed. But I doubt this. My best guess especially with what I've seen on this forum, you have a failing or failed AUX battery and possibly a failing primary as well. In fact I'd bet money on it. The timing on when you installed stuff is most likely just a coincidence, not causation.

So I've seen that also on the forums. I've never had a vehicle with 2 batteries before, how can I test the heath of the aux one?
Edit this is also a '22, likely is the factory ones.

 

[PuddleJumper]

So I've seen that also on the forums. I've never had a vehicle with 2 batteries before, how can I test the heath of the aux one?
Edit this is also a '22, likely is the factory ones.

The way i "check' the AUX is to completely unhook the primary and then check on the primary fuse block. not 100% accurate but it will show you what the voltage is without the assistance of the large primary. Anything less than 12.7v and odds are she's done. Easy way to get to the AUX is to pull back the inner passenger fender and its a lit cubby box with 3x 10 mils holding it in. Undo that and the AUX is just a motorcycle size battery hanging there. Unhook and bobs you uncle. I recommend undoing the primary battery while attempting to disconnect the AUX as to limit the risk of leads touching and shorting out your main fuse block. Honestly I'm looking for a way to extend the leads and run a larger AUX up top in the bay with the primary. I like have DUAL batteries OEM. Just wish we didn't get stuck with a POS chinese scooter battery.

 

[Mr._Bill]

So I've seen that also on the forums. I've never had a vehicle with 2 batteries before, how can I test the heath of the aux one?
Edit this is also a '22, likely is the factory ones.

The batteries are paralleled together. To test them separately, disconnect the Aux negative cable from the top of the Main Battery (keep it isolated). The positive connection for both goes to the post on top of the Main Battery. The negative connection for the Aux Battery is the removed cable. The negative connection for the Main Battery is the top of the negative post the Aux cable was removed from.

 

[Stan H]

I have never had any of this happen. But mine is fully modded gears, tires, Tazer. If it did this I would have it in the dealer to look at it. My mods have probably killed my warranty.

What warranty ..I aint has one for a long time .

 

[BearFootSam]

The way i "check' the AUX is to completely unhook the primary and then check on the primary fuse block. not 100% accurate but it will show you what the voltage is without the assistance of the large primary. Anything less than 12.7v and odds are she's done. Easy way to get to the AUX is to pull back the inner passenger fender and its a lit cubby box with 3x 10 mils holding it in. Undo that and the AUX is just a motorcycle size battery hanging there. Unhook and bobs you uncle. I recommend undoing the primary battery while attempting to disconnect the AUX as to limit the risk of leads touching and shorting out your main fuse block. Honestly I'm looking for a way to extend the leads and run a larger AUX up top in the bay with the primary. I like have DUAL batteries OEM. Just wish we didn't get stuck with a POS chinese scooter battery.

I really wish Jeep had tacked another $50 on the MSRP and followed through on the AUX battery. My opinion is that the battery issues would not be as severe if we had a true dual full size battery, or had the AUX battery been changed to a 100Ah lithium since it's not a starting battery. If there was a way to do that without a lot of trickery (charging circuit, voltage issues etc.). I have a 100Ah lithium battery in my shop with an internal heater, charge and protection circuitry and remote current and voltage monitoring. It weighs about what the AUX battery weighs, and we have the under-hood space for it.

It would be a great option to have a lithium AUX with provision to tie in a solar panel and run the low current AUX switches from it with the engine off. To power some lighting and charge devices at camp using the on-board hardware and then get the benefit of re-charging your AUX while driving would be killer. Wishful thinking would have a button in the glove box to momentarily engage the AUX as a starter battery in case the main runs down. My 2002 Winnebago has this function, a momentary rocker switch that drives the engine starter from the house batteries in case you have a dead coach battery.

The commercial market has some cool add-ons. In my Subaru I wired my 2M/70cm radio to the battery through a timed low voltage cut-off. The power off after engine shutdown was time adjustable from 2-30 minutes with an additional low voltage cut-off to prevent over drain. In series with the Aux switches you could have a low risk camp power option without stress.

 

[crmarczak]

Update is I haven't gotten around to the dealership yet, but I've been driving around for the last week or two with traction control turned off, and its been fine for the most part. I did hit a bump on the highway and it knocked cruise control off, but no rpm spike. In addition on the backroads I hit a pot whole and that forced the tranny to shift a gear or two lower. I then went offroad for the first time and that went fine. Then today I head to work and the check engine light is on for service electronic stability control... even though I've turned it off for the last week or two. Thinking about taking it into the dealership and unmarrying the tazr.

Edit checked codes: U0402, P0985, U1514-87, and U0418.

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