Aux Battery Problems

[darkstar13]

I am seeking assistance due to a problem with my battery system. I have read and reread every thread about Gladiator Aux Batteries and main batteries and the Plagued ESS. I tried to apply the techniques' from them to delete the Aux battery from my gladiator. I cannot make that happen it seems. I have been relentlessly trying for 4 days with no success. I have did the following. Please feel free to point out the errors I made to try to delete the aux battery where my truck will run more than 3 mins. I am using a 12.7 VDC main Battery and initially a 12.6 VDC aux battery. I had my fluke on min/max for the start Max 14.6 VDC/ min -6.1 VDC sometimes.

1- I removed the negative cable coming from the lower aux battery to the main battery. I wrapped it with tape and secured it with zip ties.
2- I removed the f-42 fuse from the TIPM (forgot the new name)
3- I left all cables connected to the aux battery.

I cranked the engine, she started , run normal for a couple minutes, then I got a message saying to "Safely come to a stop as the vehicle was going to shut down".
Then the windshield wipers were going very slowly, all kind of crazy iterations were going on in the displays. At one time the only way I could shut it down was to pull the battery cable off.

I tried putting a jumper on the aux leads to get it to crank and run, I always ended up with the same results.
My goal is for the time being keep the current main battery as It checked good with NAPA, and delete the aux until I decide what to do. Either install. the Genisis dual battery System or put a new Main AND Aux battery . I would reconnect the ESS as well.

It seems that the common denominator in a lot of the many threads is parasitic draw that is inherent to our trucks. That is why I am even contemplating the dual battery system. At least it would have a bigger house battery for the inherent parasitic draw as well as have a constant/dedicated charging power.

This is my line of thinking and as I said in the beginning, I am looking for answers, any suggestions, or someone pointing out the errors in my ways going about the crap. 4 days is enough.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I thank you in advance.

Sponsored

 

[Lost1wing]

I think you need to check your fuse array. What is the main battery voltage with the JT running?

 

[Lost1wing]

If I was in your position, I would measure the voltage of your aux battery, charge it fully and leave it disconnected. Measure your main battery and charge it fully. Disconnect the IBS sensor. Measure the aux battery voltage again after 30 minutes of sitting. 12.8vdc or better it is good for now. Measure the main battery voltage 30 minutes after disconnecting the AMG charger. 12.8vdc is good for now.

After you have verified that at least your main battery is 12.8 vdc or better after sitting for 30 minutes, plug in the IBS connector.

Start the JT and see what happens. Measure the voltage at the main with your meter. 14vdc or better? If only reading your initial voltage or lower, you need to check the voltages at the fuse array. At the moment I don't recall the terminal for the Alternator N7, I just looked it up.

 

[grein46087]

I have tried much of this as well and ultimately- in the end I was forced to get another battery in a emergency situation- was not happy

now I am considering this - still dual battery- but when one needs to be replaced - easy access

 

[darkstar13]

I think you need to check your fuse array. What is the main battery voltage with the JT running?

Thanks for your assist. The truck indicates 14.3 VDC when running. The fuses are good, at least the ones in the tipm.
The truck will not run at all unless the negative cable from the aux battery is hooked up. Then it will run for 2 or 3 min. It will give me the "Pull over safely as the vehicle is going to shut down". It will not let me delete the aux battery so I can drive the vehicle.

 

[darkstar13]

If I was in your position, I would measure the voltage of your aux battery, charge it fully and leave it disconnected. Measure your main battery and charge it fully. Disconnect the IBS sensor. Measure the aux battery voltage again after 30 minutes of sitting. 12.8vdc or better it is good for now. Measure the main battery voltage 30 minutes after disconnecting the AMG charger. 12.8vdc is good for now.

After you have verified that at least your main battery is 12.8 vdc or better after sitting for 30 minutes, plug in the IBS connector.

Start the JT and see what happens. Measure the voltage at the main with your meter. 14vdc or better? If only reading your initial voltage or lower, you need to check the voltages at the fuse array. At the moment I don't recall the terminal for the Alternator N7, I just looked it up.

Voltage drops to <9.0VDC on aux. Main 12.8 VDC.

 

[Lost1wing]

Voltage drops to <9.0VDC on aux. Main 12.8 VDC.

Are you seeing 14+ volts at the main battery (N2) Aux battery (N1), PCR (N3) and Alternator ( N7)?
What voltage do you see at N1, N2, N3 and N7? Checking the fuse array may require removing the cable from the terminal to ohm across. You are seeing 14+ volts so your alternator is obviously working. If your PCR has failed open, you wouldn't see 14+ volts at N1. I doubt that it has failed open. The N3 fuse in the fuse array could be blown preventing the 14+ volts reaching the Aux + cable that feeds N1. This is what I think would cause your issue.

 

[Mr._Bill]

The biggest problem is you filled your head with crap from the internet about the Aux Battery and ESS.

You joined in 2020, so I'm guessing these are the original batteries. They are paralleled together all the time, except during the startup test and during ESS restarts. If one battery has failed, it is time to replace them both.

My advice is to buy two new batteries and put it back to factory condition.

If you really want to try the Aux Battery delete, remove the Aux Battery and tape up the connectors. Zip tie the cables in a staggered condition so the ends cannot touch, and leave them hanging in the Aux Battery box. Leave the rest of the cabling alone. Remove the F42 fuse so you don't get the Aux Battery failure message at each startup.

 

[Hootbro]

You are out of warranty. I would recommend the full aux battery and wiring removal method.

 

[jebiruph]

Are you seeing 14+ volts at the main battery (N2) Aux battery (N1), PCR (N3) and Alternator ( N7)?
What voltage do you see at N1, N2, N3 and N7? Checking the fuse array may require removing the cable from the terminal to ohm across. You are seeing 14+ volts so your alternator is obviously working. If your PCR has failed open, you wouldn't see 14+ volts at N1. I doubt that it has failed open. The N3 fuse in the fuse array could be blown preventing the 14+ volts reaching the Aux + cable that feeds N1. This is what I think would cause your issue.

I agree it sounds like a blown N3 fuse, move the N3 cable to N4 and see if that fixes it.

 

[darkstar13]

Are you seeing 14+ volts at the main battery (N2) Aux battery (N1), PCR (N3) and Alternator ( N7)?
What voltage do you see at N1, N2, N3 and N7? Checking the fuse array may require removing the cable from the terminal to ohm across. You are seeing 14+ volts so your alternator is obviously working. If your PCR has failed open, you wouldn't see 14+ volts at N1. I doubt that it has failed open. The N3 fuse in the fuse array could be blown preventing the 14+ volts reaching the Aux + cable that feeds N1. This is what I think would cause your issue.

I have not messed with OR checked any "N" fuses. Not familiar with them I have only removed the F42 fuse. I will find it and check for blown. Thanks

 

[darkstar13]

I agree it sounds like a blown N3 fuse, move the N3 cable to N4 and see if that fixes it.

I will have to find the location of the "N" fuses. I did finally get the truck to stay running by completely removing the Aux battery, removing the F42 fuse, transferring the AUX positive cable to the positive terminal of the MAIN battery and securely taping/isolating the complete negative cable running to the AUX and Main batteries. I did NOT try it with the the positive cable from the AUX Battery (now removed) disconnected from the Main battery. I followed details from a thread and it is working. Plus the ESS light is off. I just hope this type deletion method will not harm the system in the long run.
It gives me some time to contemplate the genesis system or not. I have a Procharger installed and might not have the clearance for the GS III.
I would like your opinion on my procedure so far. Thank you for your valued assistance.

 

[darkstar13]

I agree it sounds like a blown N3 fuse, move the N3 cable to N4 and see if that fixes it.

I will check for the location of the "N" fuses and check its condition. I do have the truck running now via of the explanation/response above to jebiruph. As I requested of him. I value your input on this mater and would like your take on the way that I currently have it set up. Again thanks.

 

[darkstar13]

You are out of warranty. I would recommend the full aux battery and wiring removal method.

That is basically what I have done. (I think) Thanks for your advice.

 

[darkstar13]

The biggest problem is you filled your head with crap from the internet about the Aux Battery and ESS.

You joined in 2020, so I'm guessing these are the original batteries. They are paralleled together all the time, except during the startup test and during ESS restarts. If one battery has failed, it is time to replace them both.

My advice is to buy two new batteries and put it back to factory condition.

If you really want to try the Aux Battery delete, remove the Aux Battery and tape up the connectors. Zip tie the cables in a staggered condition so the ends cannot touch, and leave them hanging in the Aux Battery box. Leave the rest of the cabling alone. Remove the F42 fuse so you don't get the Aux Battery failure message at each startup.

I believe you are absolutely correct with filling my head with all the different ways people have in accomplishing this. You are very observant and correct . My truck has all original batteries. I am trying to buy some time to decide on the Genisis system II or not. I have a Procharger in it and am not sure if I will have the required room for their system with the SC installed. If not I will take your advice and just replace both Main and Aux batteries to put it back to a factory condition. Please let me know if you see any potential flaws in what I have done.
Thanks again for your valued help.

Sponsored