Aux Switch + Power Station + Fridge = Cold Beer?

[BourbonRunner]

Big thanks to @Toytech01. His non-deleted back seat thread was the inspiration for my own. I hope to execute it as well as he has. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-rear-seat-custom-fridge-platform-diy.106559/

We have a couple longer road trips (MD > VT, MD > NC, plus some camping) coming up. I was going to get a new Igloo Trailmate 70qt cooler but with wiring and whatnot this wound up being around the same money as an Alpicool T50 and I won't need ice.

But-- I don't have a house battery. I do have an Oupes Mega 1 2000w solar generator. From my research, 1000w is the minimum to be off grid for a couple days so 2000w is clearly more gooder. The Mega has a pass through and from what I gather can handle the 15a input.

The plan is to run 12ga from Aux Switch 3 to a surface mounted dual 12v cigarette socket and USB charger with voltage meter under the back seat. The Mega gets plugged into the socket via its 12v Anderson-cigarette pigtail and then the fridge gets plugged into the Mega using the cigarette socket on the Mega.

I ordered the socket and USB plugs that can handle higher amperage from Bezosmart. Most I found out are capped at 10a input. This one even came with 12ga pigtails.

Am I correct in that I set the switch to latching/ignition and press the truck's battery is slowly charging the Mega 1 as I drive? The fridge would be pulling power from the 12v plug pass through but soon as the truck is off, it pulls from the Mega 1. This all requires I pre-charge the Mega but I'd be pre-chilling the fridge inside so NBD. And if I don't want to bring the Mega for a Costco run, the fridge can still plug directly into the socket.

Originally I was going to do a direct run off the battery with an inline fuse to a plug panel but using the aux means I don't have a long hot wire running through the cab.

12v electrical gurus, am I on the right track with this plan? Anything I miss or should add? I've already pulled 42 and the wiring to bypass the aux battery FWIW. Should I plan on bringing a jumper pack because I'm about to roach my truck battery?

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[Toytech01]

[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the compliment on my project @BourbonRunner. The system that you are talking about would buy you a bit of time from charging while you drive but not a lot, especially since the fridge will be running. Your power station would take half a day of driving to recharge without a load on it. To keep things charged up, you would need a DC to DC charger that pulls from the alternator once your starting battery is full.

 

[BourbonRunner]

@Toytech01 not a problem, credit where due.

DC-DC was the other option I considered but that would require I always have the Mega or another power station in the truck.

This one can adjust the output to match the Mega: https://www.bougerv.com/products/alternator-charger-for-power-station

Maybe I should just run the fridge off the 12v socket and when the truck is off plug it into the Mega 1 and keep it simple and worry about recharging it off the solar panels or a wall outlet?

 

[Slipshodman]

I did the same thing but off the 40amp Aux circuit using Anderson plugs, ran a 40AH battery off the aux circuit & the fridge off the battery. it also gave me the option if I wanted to use the 40amp Anderson for something else (like a 12v toaster etc) , I could unplug the battery off the aux, the fridge would still run off the battery & just plug the battery back into the aux when done (and swapped the input to battery for solar when at camp). Just always charged off the car when driving. When I upgraded the battery and wanted higher charge I just plugged in the 25amp DC-DC charger into the Aux 40amp circuit (same plug), and now I run a 120AH battery. I should mention, I used the Aux 3, and have and Anderson plug at the passenger kick panel and I used the aux circuit in the engine bay and ran cabling to the bed with Anderson plug. So i can either have battery/fridge either in the car or in the bed (obviously not both at once lol) , your theory works a treat

 

[BourbonRunner]

I did the same thing but off the 40amp Aux circuit using Anderson plugs, ran a 40AH battery off the aux circuit & the fridge off the battery. it also gave me the option if I wanted to use the 40amp Anderson for something else (like a 12v toaster etc) , I could unplug the battery off the aux, the fridge would still run off the battery & just plug the battery back into the aux when done (and swapped the input to battery for solar when at camp). Just always charged off the car when driving. When I upgraded the battery and wanted higher charge I just plugged in the 25amp DC-DC charger into the Aux 40amp circuit (same plug), and now I run a 120AH battery. I should mention, I used the Aux 3, and have and Anderson plug at the passenger kick panel and I used the aux circuit in the engine bay and ran cabling to the bed with Anderson plug. So i can either have battery/fridge either in the car or in the bed (obviously not both at once lol) , your theory works a treat

Interesting idea. I've considered a PowerPole connection on the panel for "something" TBD but didn't think about stepping that up to the 40a circuit.

My original plan with the 40a was to rewire the winch so its not a direct line off the battery (as the previous owner had done) and rather energized by the aux 1 button through a relay. That would leave me with a 15a for the fridge aux, 15a for ditch lights and 40a for a separate DC-DC for down the road.

Maybe it would be better to pull the 40a line to the panel for the fridge leaving the two 15a for ditch and bumper lights? Is there a disadvantage to running the 40a since the input on the devices is much lower? I plan on running 12ga but the 40a line for a DC-DC would be much bigger.

I'm really trying not to get another switch panel this soon.

Edit: I am planning on getting KC Flex Era 3's for ditches and Era 4's for the bumper so i may very well need that other switch. This damned truck is draining my wallet faster than my old BMW.

 

[ItsmeMrWright]

Big thanks to @Toytech01. His non-deleted back seat thread was the inspiration for my own. I hope to execute it as well as he has. https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-rear-seat-custom-fridge-platform-diy.106559/

We have a couple longer road trips (MD > VT, MD > NC, plus some camping) coming up. I was going to get a new Igloo Trailmate 70qt cooler but with wiring and whatnot this wound up being around the same money as an Alpicool T50 and I won't need ice.

But-- I don't have a house battery. I do have an Oupes Mega 1 2000w solar generator. From my research, 1000w is the minimum to be off grid for a couple days so 2000w is clearly more gooder. The Mega has a pass through and from what I gather can handle the 15a input.

The plan is to run 12ga from Aux Switch 3 to a surface mounted dual 12v cigarette socket and USB charger with voltage meter under the back seat. The Mega gets plugged into the socket via its 12v Anderson-cigarette pigtail and then the fridge gets plugged into the Mega using the cigarette socket on the Mega.

I ordered the socket and USB plugs that can handle higher amperage from Bezosmart. Most I found out are capped at 10a input. This one even came with 12ga pigtails.

Am I correct in that I set the switch to latching/ignition and press the truck's battery is slowly charging the Mega 1 as I drive? The fridge would be pulling power from the 12v plug pass through but soon as the truck is off, it pulls from the Mega 1. This all requires I pre-charge the Mega but I'd be pre-chilling the fridge inside so NBD. And if I don't want to bring the Mega for a Costco run, the fridge can still plug directly into the socket.

Originally I was going to do a direct run off the battery with an inline fuse to a plug panel but using the aux means I don't have a long hot wire running through the cab.

12v electrical gurus, am I on the right track with this plan? Anything I miss or should add? I've already pulled 42 and the wiring to bypass the aux battery FWIW. Should I plan on bringing a jumper pack because I'm about to roach my truck battery?

Great art work!!!

 

[BourbonRunner]

Great art work!!!

You're too kind.

And a shitty liar. :P

 

[ItsmeMrWright]

You're too kind.

And a shitty liar. :P
Seriously, I was a 30 year career sparky, never much dabbled in DC, my only advice would be to use one size heavier conductors to minimize voltage drop. And don't drink crappy beer.......

 

[BourbonRunner]

@ItsmeMrWright LOL! Much appreciated on the diagram. I have some 12v experience from years back designing, selling and installing car audio and lighting but it aint saying much.

As I'm playing out various scenarios, i am thinking about changing this to the 40a switched fuse.

Ive run my idea through a couple chatbots and that keeps suggesting using Powerpole 45's would be the better way to ensure nothing works its way loose and remains safe. I'm okay with that.

In this scenario I'd use a Blue Sea 5025 as a sub panel. Chat bots keep saying to use a 30a inline breaker before it hits the panel. If i'm not mistaken, that should theoretically trip BEFORE the OEM switch 40a in the fuse panel and be a quick reset rather than getting under the hood and trying to find a replacement.

Anyway, 8ga from battery to breaker, breaker to panel. From the panel to a plate with 12ga, the following fuses/sockets:

1. 20a, PP45/PP45 -- Mega 1 DC input
2. 15a, PP45/proprietary plug -- Fridge input (PP45 and proprietary plug wires are available on Amazon)
3. 15a, Cigarette Socket
4. 10a, USB charging plug (dual C)
5. Spare
6. Spare

The Mega 1 and Fridge would never be on the same circuit except for in pass through mode.

When I'm just running to Costco and not using the Mega 1, the fridge can plug direct into the PP45 on the panel (or the cigarette plug)

The most i could call down at any given time reasonably would be 30a between the Mega and the USB-C charger but the reality is the USB is only when the Mega ISN'T onboard. Plus having a 20a on a PP45 may come in handy for a portable compressor down the road.

 

[ItsmeMrWright]

@ItsmeMrWright LOL! Much appreciated on the diagram. I have some 12v experience from years back designing, selling and installing car audio and lighting but it aint saying much.

As I'm playing out various scenarios, i am thinking about changing this to the 40a switched fuse.

Ive run my idea through a couple chatbots and that keeps suggesting using Powerpole 45's would be the better way to ensure nothing works its way loose and remains safe. I'm okay with that.

In this scenario I'd use a Blue Sea 5025 as a sub panel. Chat bots keep saying to use a 30a inline breaker before it hits the panel. If i'm not mistaken, that should theoretically trip BEFORE the OEM switch 40a in the fuse panel and be a quick reset rather than getting under the hood and trying to find a replacement.

Anyway, 8ga from battery to breaker, breaker to panel. From the panel to a plate with 12ga, the following fuses/sockets:

1. 20a, PP45/PP45 -- Mega 1 DC input
2. 15a, PP45/proprietary plug -- Fridge input (PP45 and proprietary plug wires are available on Amazon)
3. 15a, Cigarette Socket
4. 10a, USB charging plug (dual C)
5. Spare
6. Spare

The Mega 1 and Fridge would never be on the same circuit except for in pass through mode.

When I'm just running to Costco and not using the Mega 1, the fridge can plug direct into the PP45 on the panel (or the cigarette plug)

The most i could call down at any given time reasonably would be 30a between the Mega and the USB-C charger but the reality is the USB is only when the Mega ISN'T onboard. Plus having a 20a on a PP45 may come in handy for a portable compressor down the road.

.

That seems pretty well thought out. I would carry certain fuses and use shrink wrap tubing on all crimped connectors. I would even go so far as maybe adding a solder joint to them.

 

[BourbonRunner]

That seems pretty well thought out. I would carry certain fuses and use shrink wrap tubing on all crimped connectors. I would even go so far as maybe adding a solder joint to them.

Thanks and agree. I'm trying to build as much redundancy into the setup as i can. I don't care if my battery dies but if my beer gets warm?

Heads will roll, man.

 

[BourbonRunner]

Update:


It works!

I installed it and tried with just the fridge around town initially. I just got back from a road trip from MD > VT/NY and ran the full battery backup setup with almost zero issues. (one of my Powerpole connectors may have worked its way loose, I'll tear into it later this week. Fortunately I have a second PP45 that worked fine)

I connected the power station to the PP45, then the fridge via the cig socket plug to the power station. I wanted to stress test the concept and aside from the above, no issues.

I tied into the 40a line under the glove box and grounded it to the factory posts nearby. I used an 8 gauge amplifier kit and wrapped all wires with TESA tape. They were fished along the sill and back up behind the passenger seat to the cubby behind it. I removed the cubby and made a quick panel to mount the breaker and sub panel. There are 2 20a and 2 15a circuits. The 20a both go to PP45's and the 15's feed a USB and socket respectively.

I used cardboard to make a rough template. The base is 1/2" birch ply. I did a lot of test fitting and scribing to get it "right."

I found that the 60% seat wasn't sitting down and level with the 40% side. @Toytech01 said he used a grinder to get the fit right. I chose to grab a couple piano hinges from Home Depot to mimic the angle. It worked. I did 2 coats of bedliner and a couple flat black Rustoleum. This way the base would have a little grip for the fridge. I installed rings to mount it but to be fair for a road trip its not necessary. The front seat wedges in pretty tight and the unit really only would move (I think) in a rollover.

I considered installing doors over the gear cubbies but that really isn't necessary.

The biggest issue I ran into was the final platform wouldn't line up with both seat mounting bolts. I really didn't want to redo the whole thing. The decision was made to mount the back to the factory bolts using metal strapping. It doesn't move and gave me a little more flexibility on placement to get the seat bottom level with the other side.

I

Under the platform between the jack position and OEM plastic cubby is a 3/4" ply support and in front of the cubby another 3/4" "box." The box wraps around the corner and just over the transmission tunnel with thick weatherstripping on the bottom to avoid tearing up the mats and keep it quiet if it rattles.

I played around with a couple mounting locations. I originally wanted to get these flushed into the "box" but after boring them out, routing the openings and installing a 4-plug trim ring I found out the plugs were just a hair too deep.

Instead I bought plastic "rv mounts" off amazon and ran them on the surface.

Installed, the fridge fits perfectly.

Ultimately the system worked as I intended (minus whatever was wrong with the one PP45 plug).

The battery pack sits behind the driver's seat and has plenty of room for ventilation.

The pack and fridge have apps for monitoring and control. I was able to eyeball them on the road off my phone and make sure everything was working fine.

I found the fridge on full send mode (no eco) dropped the battery level from 85% to 50% overnight. I didn't realize it wasn't actively charging until a few hours on the road and it had dropped to 18%.

Had I been in Eco Mode like when camping the levels probably wouldn't have been so low.

Once I plugged the station into the other PP45 at 18% it charged back up to about 30% over 2.5 hours.

Overall the whole thing worked as I hoped and will get tested out on a real camping trip next week.

 

[BourbonRunner]

The purpose of the trip was my brother in law's birthday.

When he comes back to MD to visit family he always brings me good beer and leaves with a bunch of local brew.

So I returned the favor and got him almost two cases of good local stuff he can't get up there. I had to keep it cold for reasons.

And then I replaced what I gave him with Vermont's finest to take home: An assortment of Alchemist, Lawson's, Fiddlehead and more.

 

[Toytech01]

Update:


It works!

I installed it and tried with just the fridge around town initially. I just got back from a road trip from MD > VT/NY and ran the full battery backup setup with almost zero issues. (one of my Powerpole connectors may have worked its way loose, I'll tear into it later this week. Fortunately I have a second PP45 that worked fine)

I connected the power station to the PP45, then the fridge via the cig socket plug to the power station. I wanted to stress test the concept and aside from the above, no issues.

I tied into the 40a line under the glove box and grounded it to the factory posts nearby. I used an 8 gauge amplifier kit and wrapped all wires with TESA tape. They were fished along the sill and back up behind the passenger seat to the cubby behind it. I removed the cubby and made a quick panel to mount the breaker and sub panel. There are 2 20a and 2 15a circuits. The 20a both go to PP45's and the 15's feed a USB and socket respectively.

I used cardboard to make a rough template. The base is 1/2" birch ply. I did a lot of test fitting and scribing to get it "right."

I found that the 60% seat wasn't sitting down and level with the 40% side. @Toytech01 said he used a grinder to get the fit right. I chose to grab a couple piano hinges from Home Depot to mimic the angle. It worked. I did 2 coats of bedliner and a couple flat black Rustoleum. This way the base would have a little grip for the fridge. I installed rings to mount it but to be fair for a road trip its not necessary. The front seat wedges in pretty tight and the unit really only would move (I think) in a rollover.

I considered installing doors over the gear cubbies but that really isn't necessary.

The biggest issue I ran into was the final platform wouldn't line up with both seat mounting bolts. I really didn't want to redo the whole thing. The decision was made to mount the back to the factory bolts using metal strapping. It doesn't move and gave me a little more flexibility on placement to get the seat bottom level with the other side.

I

Under the platform between the jack position and OEM plastic cubby is a 3/4" ply support and in front of the cubby another 3/4" "box." The box wraps around the corner and just over the transmission tunnel with thick weatherstripping on the bottom to avoid tearing up the mats and keep it quiet if it rattles.

I played around with a couple mounting locations. I originally wanted to get these flushed into the "box" but after boring them out, routing the openings and installing a 4-plug trim ring I found out the plugs were just a hair too deep.

Instead I bought plastic "rv mounts" off amazon and ran them on the surface.

Installed, the fridge fits perfectly.

Ultimately the system worked as I intended (minus whatever was wrong with the one PP45 plug).

The battery pack sits behind the driver's seat and has plenty of room for ventilation.

The pack and fridge have apps for monitoring and control. I was able to eyeball them on the road off my phone and make sure everything was working fine.

I found the fridge on full send mode (no eco) dropped the battery level from 85% to 50% overnight. I didn't realize it wasn't actively charging until a few hours on the road and it had dropped to 18%.

Had I been in Eco Mode like when camping the levels probably wouldn't have been so low.

Once I plugged the station into the other PP45 at 18% it charged back up to about 30% over 2.5 hours.

Overall the whole thing worked as I hoped and will get tested out on a real camping trip next week.

It looks great and familiar. We have been super happy with our fridge and power set up. Keep us updated.

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