Auxiliary Battery Delete Poll

[XraytecH]

Did the delete earlier this year and had no issues so far.

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[Rocksalt]

getting ready to do the mod, was going to follow this post and pull fuse 42 as well. Hopefully i can remove all the dead cables to and reduce the mess of wires there.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-admin-warning-no-politics.23705/post-1132146

I recall a post a few years back where someone did the same thing and had pictures

my big confusion is some folks talk about jumping n1 and n2 and the diagram in the link you are bridging n1 and n3.. SO what is right?

you do not need to jump N1 N3 with this approach, hence why it is called the jumperless aux battery bypass.

 

[Badweather]

There are two positive cables from your auxiliary battery you cannot just remove these and do nothing else. An easy work around if you want the auxiliary battery gone would be to hook these two positive cables together or do the jumper between N1 and N3. The easy route is just disconnecting the negative cable and pull fuse 42 and leave the auxiliary battery in place.

 

[rharr]

Surgery was successful, it feels great to get all those extra wires removed and back to a traditionally 1 pos/1 neg setup.

I did the N1-N3 bridge aux delete mod and used a razor to carefully cut the electrical tape and wrapping to separate all the wires for the AUX battery. Chased the wires down to the fender where the PMC lives and disconnected them from the PCM terminals. ALL GONE!

I pulled the #42 fuse as a cherry on top to make sure the PCM is offline. I am also running a auto stop eliminator add in to remember my off setting.

Needed to replace my main battery as it was starting to go, and gave me a good opportunity for some house keeping.

As a bonus, I successfully cloned my ecoD ECU and installed the clone ECU for testing since I was into that area. And everything started up with not errors!

Here is the diagram I used posted by @Hootbro

 

[Badweather]

Congratulations

 

[rharr]

Here is a photo of the exercised spaghetti monster. Later Aux....

 

[Redfour5]

Haven't touched it. Works fine for me, no issues, why mess with it?

Time bombs have no issues either until they blow up. My take is that in about three years the aux will go bad simply because of age, but then they can be a pain. I HATE that auto off thing and the ever so slight hesitation at a light when you wanna go. My wife hates it worse than me and will turn it off the instant she gets in on the passenger side... Same when she drives it.

 

[Badweather]

So I deleted my auxiliary the easy way by just pulling the fuse and disconnecting the negative lead. Is there any worries over the auxiliary battery just sitting and doing nothing?

 

[willys 41]

So I deleted my auxiliary the easy way by just pulling the fuse and disconnecting the negative lead. Is there any worries over the auxiliary battery just sitting and doing nothing?

I left mine in for over a year before I decided to remove it. No issues.

 

[Badweather]

Yeah it personally bugs me to just leave it there. Is there a recommended wire gauge for the jumper between N1 and N3?

 

[rharr]

8gauge, i had some winch cable left so i used that or if feeling creative you can use either the N1 or N3 lead cut one end off and put a lug on it to bridge N3.

Yeah it personally bugs me to just leave it there. Is there a recommended wire gauge for the jumper between N1 and N3?

 

[The Sigma]

I pulled fuse 42 and disconnected aux neg cable. Aux battery has been bypassed but not removed.

Same here.

 

[Badweather]

The other option would be to bolt the two auxiliary battery positive cables together down at the auxiliary battery. I could save a whopping 11 pounds

 

[Zachanadandy]

I love when I forget to push the button and step on it and it hesitates for that split second... The wife, riding beside me notices and hates it worse than I do... but it ain't fun when out in an intersection and having to move quick as the light goes yellow and oncoming traffic doesn't stop and you gotta move fast.

You aren't driving properly if you're stopped in an intersection long enough for the ess to shut off and then the yellow light causes you to accelerate quickly. If you were properly stopped outside the intersection and then stayed where you were when the light turned yellow it wouldn't be an issue.

 

[rharr]

The other option would be to bolt the two auxiliary battery positive cables together down at the auxiliary battery. I could save a whopping 11 pounds

The 2 pos cables at the aux battery are already bonded, look at the photo above where the red cover is, there are 2 cables crimpted to 1 lug.

You could disconnect the 2 lugs at the PCM and bond them, that would act like convoluted N1/N3 bridge.

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