Auxiliary Battery Jump

[Geoarch]

When both my batteries died after less than 3 months of ownership, I pickup one of these to keep in the truck: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0924V8SPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It easily started the vehicle when both batteries were completely dead (reading <6 volts with a DMM on the main battery)

Both batteries were replaced under warranty, but the Noco gives me some peace of mind.

My plan is to upgrade the main battery to the largest possible that will fit (I think an H7) and get rid of the aux battery altogether.

Yeah, me too. I've only had to use it on my wife's Subaru. If you leave the key in the ignition the lights will stay forever until the battery sulfates... Come on Subaru. With the new no key ignitions, like the Gladiator no problem.

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[Geoarch]

Ah, you've done the pliers trick! LOL
I have a couple of screw drivers with burn marks a couple inches from the tips..........you do that when you are tapping the engine over very slowly to do valve seals and don't have your remote starter switch handy. Tip of screwdriver against battery side of solenoid, tip it over to the S terminal.

Or bring it up to TDC. Remember that?

 

[Beemer533]

Yeah, me too. I've only had to use it on my wife's Subaru. If you leave the key in the ignition the lights will stay forever until the battery sulfates... Come on Subaru. With the new no key ignitions, like the Gladiator no problem.

My wife's Corolla is like that, I don't get it. My 1980 BMW 320 would shut off the headlights as soon as the key was pulled...

 

[Geoarch]

My wife's Corolla is like that, I don't get it. My 1980 BMW 320 would shut off the headlights as soon as the key was pulled...

She was sitting in the Forester talking to a friend for an hour or so with the lights on and the key in the ignition. Then I got the call...

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yeah, me too. I've only had to use it on my wife's Subaru. If you leave the key in the ignition the lights will stay forever until the battery sulfates... Come on Subaru. With the new no key ignitions, like the Gladiator no problem.

Not totally new - it was a Mercedes option in the late 90s. You had a card with you - it would be like the FOB today. The card could be in your pocket or wallet, push button, car starts. No key required.

 

[Geoarch]

Not totally new - it was a Mercedes option in the late 90s. You had a card with you - it would be like the FOB today. The card could be in your pocket or wallet, push button, car starts. No key required.

I assume that most all cars will have that option as standard soon enough. My BMW Z4 had it and I liked the ease of use.

 

[ecidiego]

Been searching HUNDREDS of threads about dead Aux...no starts blah blah blah....there is too much disorganized information on this in this site. Ugg.

My truck is currently fine. I'll be remote this weekend and just trying to prepare. What is the DEFINITIVE method for starting a Gladiator in an emergency with a dead Aux holding the whole system down? Simply jumping n1 to n2? We need a definitive thread on this. I'm not trying to bypass or change the system for normal operation. Just how to get home if shit happens.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Been searching HUNDREDS of threads about dead Aux...no starts blah blah blah....there is too much disorganized information on this in this site. Ugg.

My truck is currently fine. I'll be remote this weekend and just trying to prepare. What is the DEFINITIVE method for starting a Gladiator in an emergency with a dead Aux holding the whole system down? Simply jumping n1 to n2? We need a definitive thread on this. I'm not trying to bypass or change the system for normal operation. Just how to get home if shit happens.

On the extremely remote chance that you have an aux with a "short", yes, make yourself a simple, short jumper to carry in the glove box and jump N1 to N2.
N1 is the system's electrics and electronics feed from the aux, and N2 is connected directly to the crank battery positive. So jumping the two will handle that.
If people are that fearful or freaked out over the remote chance, them go to Walmart and buy a couple large 'gator clips and some heavy wire and make a short jumper to keep in the truck.

Otherwise, proper/correct jumping with another vehicle, up the idle speed on the vehicle doing the jumping and WAIT a couple of minutes before trying to start it.

Not only is the "information" disorganized, over half is just not right.

 

[ecidiego]

On the extremely remote chance that you have an aux with a "short", yes, make yourself a simple, short jumper to carry in the glove box and jump N1 to N2.
N1 is the system's electrics and electronics feed from the aux, and N2 is connected directly to the crank battery positive. So jumping the two will handle that.
If people are that fearful or freaked out over the remote chance, them go to Walmart and buy a couple large 'gator clips and some heavy wire and make a short jumper to keep in the truck.

Otherwise, proper/correct jumping with another vehicle, up the idle speed on the vehicle doing the jumping and WAIT a couple of minutes before trying to start it.

Not only is the "information" disorganized, over half is just not right.

Thanks man. So with a lithium battery jumpbox and that jumper for the other scenario I should be covered.

THANK YOU

 

[ecidiego]

@ShadowsPapa just to be sure....lol....I went out and tested it. I figure if it's working now it will work through Sunday and isn't dead. Lol.

 

[jebiruph]

Been searching HUNDREDS of threads about dead Aux...no starts blah blah blah....there is too much disorganized information on this in this site. Ugg.

My truck is currently fine. I'll be remote this weekend and just trying to prepare. What is the DEFINITIVE method for starting a Gladiator in an emergency with a dead Aux holding the whole system down? Simply jumping n1 to n2? We need a definitive thread on this. I'm not trying to bypass or change the system for normal operation. Just how to get home if shit happens.

If you don't have a jumper, you can just disconnect the aux battery ground from the main battery to prevent a dead aux battery from holding the whole system down when jumpstarting. The ESS error light will turn on, but you can worry about that after you get home.

Here's my related post on the JL site. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...in-battery-vs-n1-terminal.87726/#post-1902906

 

[ecidiego]

If you don't have a jumper, you can just disconnect the aux battery ground from the main battery to prevent a dead aux battery from holding the whole system down when jumpstarting. The ESS error light will turn on, but you can worry about that after you get home.

Here's my related post on the JL site. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...in-battery-vs-n1-terminal.87726/#post-1902906

So in my case....2021...disc the aux from the fender ground. It doesn't go to the main neg.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So in my case....2021...disc the aux from the fender ground. It doesn't go to the main neg.

I can't speak for diesel, but for gassers, the ground for the aux battery goes to the top of the IBS on the crank battery, then another cable goes from the top of the IBS to the fender/chassis ground stud.

In this pic of my 2020 (3.6 GAS), you can see I have disconnected the aux battery ground from the top of the IBS and have the negative charger clamp on it to charge ONLY the aux battery.
The other cable (on top of the IBS) still on the negative crank battery post is the cable that goes over to the chassis ground stud between battery and body.

 

[ecidiego]

I can't speak for diesel, but for gassers, the ground for the aux battery goes to the top of the IBS on the crank battery, then another cable goes from the top of the IBS to the fender/chassis ground stud.

In this pic of my 2020 (3.6 GAS), you can see I have disconnected the aux battery ground from the top of the IBS and have the negative charger clamp on it to charge ONLY the aux battery.
The other cable (on top of the IBS) still on the negative crank battery post is the cable that goes over to the chassis ground stud between battery and body.

There's a change in 2021 3.6....I'll take some pics.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There's a change in 2021 3.6....I'll take some pics.

I'll have to verify the layout- which cable is which - on my 2022.
They LOOK exactly the same - same studs and stud sizes, two cables, one bolted to the IBS and the other bolted to the first via the taller stud, but can't say if they switched them around as to which one is the chassis ground and which is the aux battery ground.

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