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Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper)

eaglerugby04

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LOL - I hear ya - yes, like a simple TEST JIG.
Years ago I built my own tool for diagnosing 10BaseT network cabling that would show faults in the cables and connections because so many before me messed up putting the RJ45 connectors on, wiring jacks and so on - and that was only 4 pair - only EIGHT wires!
They could have built a simple go-no go jig, plug it in, push a button, if you get xx lights all green, it's good to go. If not, don't pass go, don't collect $49.95, go back to jail.
I wish I could laugh about 10baseT, but sadly I still find devices that use it to this day floating around. lol
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Radio Guy

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This is probably a question for Oracle but does anyone know if these lights have internal regulators where the brightness will remain constant over maybe a 11 to 14V range? Mine are wired with the optional vehicle harness tap and I want to install a pair of Schottky diodes to isolate the original wiring harness so I can run a wire to my AUX power switches to have manual control and retain the backup light feature.
 

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I wish I could laugh about 10baseT, but sadly I still find devices that use it to this day floating around. lol
Then you'll love token ring.

I was actually one of the firs to use 10BaseT before it was an official standard. A company in MN named Gateway (NOT the cow computer people) sold "hubs" and "concentrators" and there wasn't anything mentioned about 10BaseT in the marketing or descriptions because it wasn't 10BaseT yet. It was "Ethernet over twisted pair".
There's still a lot of it around.
 

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This is probably a question for Oracle but does anyone know if these lights have internal regulators where the brightness will remain constant over maybe a 11 to 14V range? Mine are wired with the optional vehicle harness tap and I want to install a pair of Schottky diodes to isolate the original wiring harness so I can run a wire to my AUX power switches to have manual control and retain the backup light feature.
Basically, are they internally voltage regulated so the input doesn't matter if it's 14 or down to 11.......
I'd also like the option of manual control but don't have aux switches - but still want to use them for dealing with my trailer at night strapping the car down, etc.
So will also be looking to make a circuit to leave them as back up lights but turn them on manually when not in reverse.

I assume you are talking Schottky diodes for the low voltage drop?
 

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Yes, low forward voltage drop. I'll cut the reverse light wire in the Oracle harness and install a 6A diode (what I have on hand) pointing at the Oracle reverse lights. Then another diode with its positive junction connected to the positive junction of the first diode and a wire back to the AUX switches. This will keep the voltage from the AUX switches from back feeding into the reverse light circuit.

Basically, are they internally voltage regulated so the input doesn't matter if it's 14 or down to 11.......
I'd also like the option of manual control but don't have aux switches - but still want to use them for dealing with my trailer at night strapping the car down, etc.
So will also be looking to make a circuit to leave them as back up lights but turn them on manually when not in reverse.

I assume you are talking Schottky diodes for the low voltage drop?
 

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ChrisK

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Quick question. Not realizing there was an issue I got one in the mail and naturally too short. CS was great ordered me another wire but whereas I already installed them yadda yadda yadda. The CS gent told me there was a tight way to do it using the harness and I figured it out, very tight. Got everything hooked up and guess what? Lights don’t turn on and my reverse light in my taillight didn’t work. Disconnect harness and tries again same problem. Now I have the pretty lights installed and they don’t work, I am waiting for the extension but clearly something ain’t right! Does this sound like the piggy back plug or the lights. I am leaning towards the plug not working? Any help would be appreciated. Called CS and left a message but I got off duty four hours early and nearly two and a half hours of frustrated socket spinning and plugging and unplugging I’m getting a wee bit irate. Four and a half hours free of LE and I’m now dirty and my only free time gone. Off to pick up my little monkeys and hopefully get a call back from @ORACLElights because thus far I have been really pleased with my awesome headlamps.

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Radio Guy

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Look at post #681 and related posts here. Could be a problem in the adapter cable that goes between the lights and the vehicle wiring harness.



Quick question. Not realizing there was an issue I got one in the mail and naturally too short. CS was great ordered me another wire but whereas I already installed them yadda yadda yadda. The CS gent told me there was a tight way to do it using the harness and I figured it out, very tight. Got everything hooked up and guess what? Lights don’t turn on and my reverse light in my taillight didn’t work. Disconnect harness and tries again same problem. Now I have the pretty lights installed and they don’t work, I am waiting for the extension but clearly something ain’t right! Does this sound like the piggy back plug or the lights. I am leaning towards the plug not working? Any help would be appreciated. Called CS and left a message but I got off duty four hours early and nearly two and a half hours of frustrated socket spinning and plugging and unplugging I’m getting a wee bit irate. Four and a half hours free of LE and I’m now dirty and my only free time gone. Off to pick up my little monkeys and hopefully get a call back from @ORACLElights because thus far I have been really pleased with my awesome headlamps.

Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper) image


Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper) image
 

ShadowsPapa

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Someone else found a couple of wires switched around in their adapter. With all white wire's it's hard to tell easily so you have to lay their adapter down, and trace the wires from one to the other. They must go straight and parallel - if a wire comes out of hole 2 in the left, it must go to hole 2 in the right. He had to switch two of the wires. NO WIRES SHOULD CROSS - they must run pretty and parallel from one connector to the other, no crossing, no twisting, left straight to right
 

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Hey Everyone!

Just wanted to pop in and give a quick update on the extension cables. I got tracking from our factory and they are set to arrive and start shipping out to you all by 7/15.

Thanks to all of you for your patience here!
Thank you for the update. I am looking forward to having both lights working.
 

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Got my lights and harness in today, but ran into an issue. The lights work if I take the factory reverse light out of the taillight, but if I put it back in, it just flashes a couple of times and then shuts off the driver's side reverse light. Until I shut down the vehicle and start it back up then it just does it again. No codes on the dash. I did try switching it to LED tails with the Taser and no change. If I leave one of the Aux lights plugged in with the factory reverse light then I have no issue. On a plus note, I didn't have to modify the light to put them in.

Anybody had this happen, or got any ideas. Got dark so I only got to mess with it for a few minutes.
Mine does the exact same thing no led package from factory, do I need to put led lights in the tailights to get them to work?
 

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Radio Guy

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I would recommend to anyone that gets the Oracle adapter harness to put that in first then see if your lights work before installing them. That way you can discover any adapter problems before doing a lot of work and rule out damage you may have done during the install. The lights do not need to be mounted to work and you can lay them on the tailgate for testing.
 

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I would recommend to anyone that gets the Oracle adapter harness to put that in first then see if your lights work before installing them. That way you can discover any adapter problems before doing a lot of work and rule out damage you may have done during the install. The lights do not need to be mounted to work and you can lay them on the tailgate for testing.
Yeah true dat. Hindsight is 20/20 of course it’s from looking out of my anus so…
 

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To clarify -

A Change grommet to a single hole
B Extend this sleeve in through the grommet pointed out in A. Put aclip or clamp on the wire sleeve inside the grommet at C to prevent wires from being pulled loose by snow and ice like we get here in Iowa - (pic below)
C do not leave these fine wires exposed as what is sure to be a flex point. There will be stress here over the long run unless the cable pointed to in B was somehow secured to the light. Otherwise it's likely to have just enough hanging to allow vibration directly impacting the two wires at C

suggest-wire-changes.jpg
I'm going to try to address this with some Sugru! I'll post about the outcome.
 

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I'm going to try to address this with some Sugru! I'll post about the outcome.
I had trouble getting anything to stick to their grommet- it's like it's a silicone of some sort.
 

mazeppa

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I'm going to try to address this with some Sugru! I'll post about the outcome.
Curious to see how the Sugru works out. I attached P-clams to the two upper bolts to fasten the wiring to prevent it from moving. I'm still concerned about stress on the small fine wires where they enter the grommet, even though I have rear mud flaps that block ice and snow build up in this area of the rear bumper.

Jeep Gladiator Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper) thumbnail_20210707_120148
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