Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper)

[ShadowsPapa]

Trailer wiring, now that is a nightmare. I also love how nothing uses a standard color. I had one with issues for years, turned out the ground was never properly attached.

No kidding. I redid a lot of the wiring on my PJ car hauler when I had it. Crimped, not soldered, colors were a mish-mash, scotchlocks to branch off to the other side, etc. Even though I was going to trade the trailer I rewired most of it and soldered and sealed all the joints I touched.

They just need lights to work to get them out the door and to your trailer hitch. They don't spend a lot of time.

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[mazeppa]

I thought; all rear bumpers were the same on all Gladiators, and only the front bumpers were different depending on the trim. I have the Active Safety Group that includes the additional wiring for the rear bumper.

I just put the new lights in without any thought process. The only slightly difficult procedure for me was starting the top-outer 7mm screws on both sides.

Used stainless steel 1/4" OD P-clamps under both the top 7mm screws to strap the light and sensor wiring with cable ties to.

**** Previously applied Fluid Film really made the install messy! But it does a good job holding dust and dirt to applied areas. ****

 

[Harold0819]

I have to follow up and say the light definitely operate and function as they were designed. They add a significant amount of light to the rear of the truck.
I'm fortunate and had no issues getting my lights to fit in the bumper as others have reported. My only issue was the PNP harness. I ended up using the T-connectors and made sure all was coated in dielectric grease and tucked where they should be able to avoid moisture, unless I completely submerge the Jeep.
Will see how they last over time now

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I thought; all rear bumpers were the same on all Gladiators, and only the front bumpers were different depending on the trim. I have the Active Safety Group that includes the additional wiring for the rear bumper.

I just put the new lights in without any thought process. The only slightly difficult procedure for me was starting the top-outer 7mm screws on both sides.

Used stainless steel 1/4" OD P-clamps under both the top 7mm screws to strap the light and sensor wiring with cable ties to.

**** Previously applied Fluid Film really made the install messy! But it does a good job holding dust and dirt to applied areas. ****

Once I get the extension and my routing, etc. is final, I'm also reaching into my collection of clips and clamps like that to secure these. Because of the loom I likely will use plain stainless clamps and not the rubber padded (I save those for brake lines to keep the clamp from touching the steel brake line and wearing).
But that's my final plan, that, or some of the nylon ones I have. Always have to keep a large assortment of that sort of thing on hand, never know when I get myself into more auto wiring work or under-hood restorations.

 

[GoVR46]

I cringed when I put it in reverse and I'm sure I blinded the poor person in that car behind us even though it was a good car length back from us. It lit up their car and the interior nicely -

This reason here is why I decided to wire only to an Aux switch instead of both Aux switch and reverse signal. Don't want to blind people if I don't need the extra light.

 

[eaglerugby04]

No kidding. I redid a lot of the wiring on my PJ car hauler when I had it. Crimped, not soldered, colors were a mish-mash, scotchlocks to branch off to the other side, etc. Even though I was going to trade the trailer I rewired most of it and soldered and sealed all the joints I touched.

They just need lights to work to get them out the door and to your trailer hitch. They don't spend a lot of time.

I haven't fixed any of mine, but damn when I added camera's to my travel trailer the colors were all off had to bust out a multimeter. Had to use the lawnmower battery to individually test everything on my flat trailer when redoing the plug. that thing was just like whatever people had laying around.

 

[T-Rock]

Thats why I wired mine to a toggle switch. Can turn on off at my will.

Did you just use 14 gauge wire (not included with the Oracle lights) to splice into the lights & run that to your battery?
I’m looking at connecting these to my accessory switches without touching factory wiring at all.
Edit: posted this before I got thru all pages. Looks like 18 gauge is fine.

 

[T-Rock]

All done, used a Curt # 56584 trailer T-harness to get a reverse light and ground circuits without having to tap into any OEM wires. No modifications were necessary to mount to my Rubicon rear bumper.

Is that a Ducati scrambler next to your JT? Looks like one lol.

 

[redman43]

Am I reading the last dozen or so pages correctly?

• May have trouble getting the housings to seat into the bumper. Not really a problem, just pay attention to how they came out and replicate in reverse order. May have to trim the locating pin.
• PnP harness may not be so PnP. Wiring is too short, trouble seating the connector(s), etc.
• Any issues experienced with having halogen bulbs currently installed?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Am I reading the last dozen or so pages correctly?

• May have trouble getting the housings to seat into the bumper. Not really a problem, just pay attention to how they came out and replicate in reverse order. May have to trim the locating pin.
• PnP harness may not be so PnP. Wiring is too short, trouble seating the connector(s), etc.
• Any issues experienced with having halogen bulbs currently installed?

I think the lights themselves may have gone in easier for some had they tried rotating them so the inside end was facing up, tipping them into place and then rotating them back around to the proper orientation. Maybe not all, but I bet some could have saved cutting the pin. Maybe.
The harness is indeed short to the right side - Oracle will send you an extension, in the mean-time there's a stop-gap measure some have used - pull the harness loose behind the tail light until you get the extension.
The connector seating I believe is a matter of a dry fit and the thing holding air. I'd bet if I had used silicone dielectric grease on the connector it would have gone right together. .

Nothing show-stopping or earth-shattering as I see it.

 

[Hoover104]

We have just completed production for a reverse light for the JL to increase visibility backing up at night. A common complaint we hear is low visibility when backing up at night because the factory reverse lights (even with LED tail lights) do not produce enough light for the backup camera to work well in the dark.

The solution we made for the JL replaces with factory rear bumper reflectors with functional LED lights which increase the usable light by 20x when measured in Lux.

(see full demonstration click here)

The Gladiator has an even larger reflector which can be more easily accessed (faster installation) and would mount with the factory hardware and tap into the reverse lights (or connect to Aux switch).

We want to hear feedback from members here if you would prefer:

A) Use the total space for LED placement to maximize the number of LEDs and light output.

B) Share the space with a scaled-down reflector to maintain the reflector function.

Either way these would have MORE LEDs than the JL version which is very bright!

Let us know your thoughts!

i like A

 

[ShadowsPapa]

i like A

Point is moot - the reflector is required by law with CA being the most strict state - and Oracle went with the combination to keep the required reflector.

 

[Sperron]

If folks would pay close attention on the way the OEM reflector came out, outer pin first, rotate reflector until inner pin comes out. Install new light with the inner pin first, rotating down until it goes in. Rotate light up and outer pin will fall in.

Problem is I took OEM reflectors out over a year ago and made my own reverse lights with some rock lights and heavy black plastic. My memory isn't that good.

 

[10ecHarry]

Did you just use 14 gauge wire (not included with the Oracle lights) to splice into the lights & run that to your battery?
I’m looking at connecting these to my accessory switches without touching factory wiring at all.
Edit: posted this before I got thru all pages. Looks like 18 gauge is fine.

I ran 14 gauge wire to the battery. Put disconnect plug to back lights. 18 ga should be fine.

 

[mazeppa]

Is that a Ducati scrambler next to your JT? Looks like one lol.

Italian, but a Moto Guzzi V7. This picture is just after I finished installing an early model 850 Lemans reproduction cowling last February. However I used Jeep Firecracker Red paint color for the cowling and tank, a friend had just enough left over from his JK body repair and it was a perfect shade of red for this project.

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