Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper)

Jeeperjaime2

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Finally had time to install
Lights installed fast and easy. PnP harness was lengthened six inches. Gladiator Sport needed LEDs in factory taillights. Work great, realistically need to put them on aftermarket switch panel to not blind unsuspecting drivers behind me.
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rr11

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After all said and done I wired mine to a switch. The prime reason I ordered these is for light on boat ramps.
 

T-Rock

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Italian, but a Moto Guzzi V7. This picture is just after I finished installing an early model 850 Lemans reproduction cowling last February. However I used Jeep Firecracker Red paint color for the cowling and tank, a friend had just enough left over from his JK body repair and it was a perfect shade of red for this project.

20210309_214750.jpg
Sweet looking ride, good job!
 

T-Rock

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After an exhausting read through this entire thread, I plan to buy these and install directly to the factory Aux switches in my Mojave. I just wish I could do so before my upcoming road-trip with my little camper because it would be handy I am certain.
I will try to remember (it will be August before I get to this) to post my setup info and install experience in hopes it will help someone as all of YOU helped me in this thread. Happy Trails !
 

Squelch

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Hey there,

The P&P harness should just allow pass through as it's just a jumper harness. Can you tell me if you notice any wires coming from the sensor that go to an empty spot on the P&P harness? It shouldn't but just want to double check.

Feel free to PM me pictures so I can have a look.
I had no problems installing on a Rubicon, (didn't have to cut any bolts, and the wires stretched enough) but I am also getting the "blind spot warning unavailable" problem using the jumper. Any solution?
 
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I had no problems installing on a Rubicon, (didn't have to cut any bolts, and the wires stretched enough) but I am also getting the "blind spot warning unavailable" problem using the jumper. Any solution?

  • Check the 5 white wires in the plug and play harness that corresponds with the 5 wires for the tail light blind spot sensor wires then trace those white wires from male end to female end of the plug and play harness, looking for any wires that are cross pinned.
  • Example: white wire on pin 1 on female side, but on pin 2 on male side, etc.
  • Once the wires are located, you can switch the pins in the female side of the plug by removing the white center cap, locating the locking clip for each pin, and pulling on the clip while pulling the wire from the back of the plug. See photo below referencing the clip
  • image-1625667676453.png
 

Squelch

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  • Check the 5 white wires in the plug and play harness that corresponds with the 5 wires for the tail light blind spot sensor wires then trace those white wires from male end to female end of the plug and play harness, looking for any wires that are cross pinned.
  • Example: white wire on pin 1 on female side, but on pin 2 on male side, etc.
  • Once the wires are located, you can switch the pins in the female side of the plug by removing the white center cap, locating the locking clip for each pin, and pulling on the clip while pulling the wire from the back of the plug. See photo below referencing the clip
  • image-1625667676453.png
Ok, I'll check it out when I get a chance this weekend. Not 100% sure what you're talking about, but hopefully once I put eyes on it I can figure it out. What 5 wires are for the blind spot sensor? Will it be obvious when I open up the light?
 

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Ok, I'll check it out when I get a chance this weekend. Not 100% sure what you're talking about, but hopefully once I put eyes on it I can figure it out. What 5 wires are for the blind spot sensor? Will it be obvious when I open up the light?
Lay that pigtail out on the bench or your wife's sewing table. Lay both ends so they lay flat and wires aren't twisted but form straight lines from one connector to the other.
On the left if a wire comes out of the top spot closest to you, it must go back into the connector on the right at the top spot closest to you. Like a 40 lane highway, lanes do not cross - they go from hole one in the left to hole one in the right, hole 2 in the left to hole 2 in the right. If a wire is in a corner of the left shell it had better go into the same corner hole in the other shell.
They should go perfectly parallel from one to the other and no wires should cross each other on the way to the other end.
If any do, he explained how to release the wires to switch them around.
IF you run into trouble, take a good picture of what you have and there's some really clever people here, good with electric, who can help.
 

mazeppa

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  • Check the 5 white wires in the plug and play harness that corresponds with the 5 wires for the tail light blind spot sensor wires then trace those white wires from male end to female end of the plug and play harness, looking for any wires that are cross pinned.
  • Example: white wire on pin 1 on female side, but on pin 2 on male side, etc.
  • Once the wires are located, you can switch the pins in the female side of the plug by removing the white center cap, locating the locking clip for each pin, and pulling on the clip while pulling the wire from the back of the plug. See photo below referencing the clip
  • image-1625667676453.png

See from the JL Wrangler Forum side, wiring diagrams for the left and right tail light connectors, should be the same as the JT.

Left:.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/LAMP-ASSEMBLY-TAIL-LEFT-connector-details.pdf

Right:
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/LAMP-ASSEMBLY-TAIL-RIGHT-connector-details.pdf
 

Squelch

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Lay that pigtail out on the bench or your wife's sewing table. Lay both ends so they lay flat and wires aren't twisted but form straight lines from one connector to the other.
On the left if a wire comes out of the top spot closest to you, it must go back into the connector on the right at the top spot closest to you. Like a 40 lane highway, lanes do not cross - they go from hole one in the left to hole one in the right, hole 2 in the left to hole 2 in the right. If a wire is in a corner of the left shell it had better go into the same corner hole in the other shell.
They should go perfectly parallel from one to the other and no wires should cross each other on the way to the other end.
If any do, he explained how to release the wires to switch them around.
IF you run into trouble, take a good picture of what you have and there's some really clever people here, good with electric, who can help.
Ok, this seems relatively easy, but it also seems like something that should have been caught in QC.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Ok, this seems relatively easy, but it also seems like something that should have been caught in QC.
LOL - I hear ya - yes, like a simple TEST JIG.
Years ago I built my own tool for diagnosing 10BaseT network cabling that would show faults in the cables and connections because so many before me messed up putting the RJ45 connectors on, wiring jacks and so on - and that was only 4 pair - only EIGHT wires!
They could have built a simple go-no go jig, plug it in, push a button, if you get xx lights all green, it's good to go. If not, don't pass go, don't collect $49.95, go back to jail.
 

Squelch

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Ok, so I fixed it by switching two of the pins. "Plug-and-play" turned into "plug-play-unplug-rewire-play" but it looks like the sensor error cleared, as did the "left rear turn signal out" warning I got today as well.
 

JTPatriot

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Well add me to the list. I just got done installing the lights in my Rubicon. Wire to short to the passenger side. I got the extra length by unclipping the factory harness from the body. After struggling with the adapter harness, I realized the top row of pins were not seated. Easy enough, just had to pull them back into locked position. Luckily I had read all of the issues everyone was having so fixes where easy enough.
Still why are we having these kind of issues? All of this should have been addressed before release. I work in a proto shop and everything has to go thru QA prior to being released for production. Yes some things will still slip thru but like the extensions being offered they are HIGH PRIORITY! Get them made and out to the customers.
I do have the extension ordered, just have no idea as to how long it will take to get it.
Lights are very nice and bright, just wish we did not have to deal with the new part curse.
 

Code 3

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Info I received indicated extension cables should be restocked around 7/30.
 

JP_Oracle

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Hey Everyone!

Just wanted to pop in and give a quick update on the extension cables. I got tracking from our factory and they are set to arrive and start shipping out to you all by 7/15.

Thanks to all of you for your patience here!
 
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