Auxiliary LED Reverse Lights (Integrated Rear Bumper)

[JT LIFE]

Finished.... I was trying to tap into their wiring harness for an additional led strip already installed under the tailgate, one of those with the brake and turn lights, this strip has white LEDs for reverse and I guess it's too much draw for the circuit, disconnected that and now everything works..... I say again, one more INCH on the lead for the passenger side would help tons......

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[am1978]

While I anxiously await the USPS driver bringing my bumper lights, I installed some Oracle LED strips in the front footwells of my hydroblue rubicon. When I finished, took 10mins, I noticed the mail truck down the road…and another mail truck drove by…one broke down and they are migrating the load to the other one. SMH.

 

[mazeppa]

Wires too short!

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[johnparjr]

Wires too short!

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it’s not short if you route it through the side hole and unclip the tailight people just are not routing it right but I do agree an extra 1-2 inches would have been easier

 

[am1978]

Alright, USPS delivered, so I went and removed my reflectors and screwed in the oracle LEDs. Time for the install video and some relooks are the wire routing pics.

EDIT: ok, so I have two 8mm bolts to remove the driver side taillight, insert PNP harness and make sure wire routing to passenger side is proper, and then reinstall the taillight. I’ll wait until tomorrow. Getting ready to go somewhere and don’t want the backup sensors going awry like that other guy.

EDIT 2: ok, so whilst waiting on my lovely wife to finish getting ready to go out I went out and did the wiring. The hardest part was disconnecting the taillight connector! Got that done and un lipped the taillight harness from the inner wall and routed the passenger wire down through the top circular hole in the taillight soffit and reinstalled the taillight after verifying that taillight functioned normally. I routed the passenger wire across, over the frame beams, between the spare and the tailgate, to the passenger wire and while it was a taught wire I was able to connect it. I was able to verify everything works.

Note: for the guy whose backup sensors went awry, you might want to check your connections if you pulled on those wires too hard to get the reflectors out. I just cut the wire clip off on the flange side and freed it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

it’s not short if you route it through the side hole and unclip the tailight people just are not routing it right but I do agree an extra 1-2 inches would have been easier

BS - I routed mine through the highest and closest holes and it's too short, period.
Unclip the harness and let it hang? Sorry, these should have been designed with the respect for the original clips and connections professionals demand. A person should not have to unclip and let hang other wires in the truck to make up for theirs being too short. As it was, I had to STRETCH the wire to make it connect and I'm going through the top hole in the tail light area, clear up against the bottom of the truck, as the crow flies. There's no other way to do it and have it connect at all and I have the pics to prove it. Mine is pretty much fiddle string tight and I can't see unclipping the harness in the truck and letting it hang to flex those wires and make them brittle. Copper work-hardens and in the future that harness connector hanging and swinging back there will cause those wires to crack. Ask any owner of a Jeep WJ how their driver door wires are after years of vibrating and flexing. Likely they have 2 or 3 broken wires in that harness.

You are suggesting that a dozen people here don't know how to route the wires. Insulting.

I will say this - I have the Overland with that "bolt" that people complain about and say they have to cut a piece off the new light - I didn't. I was able to tilt mine in and swing it around and didn't modify the lights at all.

 

[johnparjr]

BS - I routed mine through the highest and closest holes and it's too short, period.
Unclip the harness and let it hang? Sorry, these should have been designed with the respect for the original clips and connections professionals demand. A person should not have to unclip and let hang other wires in the truck to make up for theirs being too short. As it was, I had to STRETCH the wire to make it connect and I'm going through the top hole in the tail light area, clear up against the bottom of the truck, as the crow flies. There's no other way to do it and have it connect at all and I have the pics to prove it. Mine is pretty much fiddle string tight and I can't see unclipping the harness in the truck and letting it hang to flex those wires and make them brittle. Copper work-hardens and in the future that harness connector hanging and swinging back there will cause those wires to crack. Ask any owner of a Jeep WJ how their driver door wires are after years of vibrating and flexing. Likely they have 2 or 3 broken wires in that harness.

You are suggesting that a dozen people here don't know how to route the wires. Insulting.

I will say this - I have the Overland with that "bolt" that people complain about and say they have to cut a piece off the new light - I didn't. I was able to tilt mine in and swing it around and didn't modify the lights at all.

if you unclip the top harness it hangs a little bit that’s not gonna damage the wires get off your high horse and quit being a crab you can route it it works I’ve done it others have done it it’s not a big deal I do wish the harness was longer but it’s not work with what you got or send it back

 

[Erievon]

Crazy thought, anyone try to go from the passenger side tail light harness instead, any way there is a more direct route coming from that side? I imagine the harness clips are the same (I could be wrong?).

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Here's a pictorial of my install.
Notes -
I routed the right side wire out the uppermost hole on the lest side. That way the wire comes out ASAP and is right up against the bottom of the truck. To route it through a lower hole means you lose another inch of wire.

I also did not trim any piece on the lights. I was able to tip an end into place and rotate the light up and around into place while protecting the light's face from the bumper bolt with the other hand.

Forget the ratchet, use a nut driver or handle and socket, and a flex for the top screw. Piece of cake. I had the lights in place in about 10 minutes or so. The wiring - that's another matter..........
But with a nut driver, or a handle and socket with flex, those things come out and go in really fast. There's no real torque on them so that's all you need. If you have the safety stuff, park assist and so on you need to remove a couple of clips from your reflectors so use wire cutters or pliers or whatever for that.

A is where you need to released the sensor harness, B is that bolt everyone talks about being in the way. I already have the lower screw out in this photo - and on this left reflector, the top screw in the right in the photo was loose, it was out at least a turn already.

First light in place, driver side. That bolt again (B) and the wire clip I snipped off (A)

Handle, flex and socket - seconds out, seconds back in. Did not snip or remove any part of the new light pin

Passenger side light - that bolt (B) and the clip to snip for the sensor harness (A)

Tipped B up behind that bolt sticking down, my other hand was at C to protect the light from the top bumper bolt end, and I swung the light up into place. So is my Overland bumper different than the bumpers on those where people had to trim the post on the lights? Shouldn't be. Should be the same as others, I would think. In any case, using this method I didn't cut the lights at all.
East part done - now the wiring which was indeed too short by 1-2".

I put that plastic loom on the leads going to both lights from their "adapter". I always have a lot of that around for the cars I rewire and work on. I secured it from sliding by using a rubber tape that sticks to itself. Take off the protective film on the one side and pull it tight around the wire and loom as you wrap it and it's not sticky, but sticks to itself, making a seal and holding the loom from sliding around.

Tried all locations and decided the top hole is the one that uses the least wire to get out of the tail light chamber area. Go lower and then out you use at least another inch - go out the bottom you waste 2 inches of wire or more before the wire that start the journey to the right. This hole means the wire doesn't go down as far and can start heading to the right side immediately.

This is the wire leading to the right side light - it exits high and immediately makes a turn to the right side and goes along the bottom of the truck.

I pulled and got it connected but - I literally pulled. There's zero slack.

Do NOT like the fact there is no slack, no loop, it's pulling on that rubber it goes through into the light assembly. I can't even pull it up high and tie it - there's not enough wire to tie up out of place. I'll just have to tie it to the sensor harness loosely as I tried pulling it up to where that harness is tied and it won't reach.

Going to see if there's a way I can gain some slack to tie that right side light harness up out of the way. I don't want to take the tail light harness out of its clip and let it shake and rattle around in the body. Wires harden when the are allowed to flex. Anyone notice how new vehicles have wires secured so they can't vibrate? There's a reason.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Crazy thought, anyone try to go from the passenger side tail light harness instead, any way there is a more direct route coming from that side? I imagine the harness clips are the same (I could be wrong?).

I checked that out - the leads on both lights are exactly the same length, the resulting distance is seemingly the same. The issue is with the harness adapter itself. If you didn't use that accessory, they'd be fine. But I refuse to ever clip into a wire with a piggyback like that. I've seen too much damage, too many issues. They aren't sealed connections like the factory uses. Salt, mist, dirt, water, etc...........

if you unclip the top harness it hangs a little bit that’s not gonna damage the wires get off your high horse and quit being a crab you can route it it works I’ve done it others have done it it’s not a big deal I do wish the harness was longer but it’s not work with what you got or send it back

Others have done it so that makes it right? Interesting.

How long have you worked on vehicles - how many wires have you seen broken because of vibrations and movements of the harness? I've seen a lot of it.
You are telling an electrician it's alright, others have done it. Better Oracle fix the problem than other have to deal with it.

They messed up the length.
I don't care if 10 people here did it, that doesn't make it right. I don't want the longer term health of my truck resting on "others have done it".

Oracle left almost a foot extra wire on the left side that has to be looped and secured out of the way - why not trim that side shorter and increase the right side lead on the harness adapter? No cost to them!
It's a design flaw. We are pointing that out otherwise they'd never know.

It would not cost them a single penny to take 2 inches off the left side lead and add 2" to the right side lead for the ADAPTER harness.
Leave the lights themselves alone - they fit fine, the wires are good on the lights. It's only the harness adapter that's incorrect.

Do what you want with your truck.
I want mine right.
I may have no choice for now - or I may let that wire be tight - it's on them for warranty, but when they fix the harness, I want a replacement.

 

[JP_Oracle]

I just installed mine using the PNP harness and was getting a "Blind Spot Unavailable" error. Once I removed the PNP harness...the error went away. I would like to avoid tapping my factory wires if possible.

I emailed customer service and awaiting their response.

This was on a 2021 Sport S w/ LED tail lights & blind spot sensors.

Hey there,

The P&P harness should just allow pass through as it's just a jumper harness. Can you tell me if you notice any wires coming from the sensor that go to an empty spot on the P&P harness? It shouldn't but just want to double check.

Feel free to PM me pictures so I can have a look.

 

[am1978]

Thanks @ORACLElights and @JP_Oracle!

2021 JT Rubicon Diesel, LED taillights w/ advanced safety package.

 

[Erievon]

Amen. We are early adaptors, the vendor needs the feedback to know what we are seeing in the field. That harness was clipped by Jeep for a reason, and Papa has defined that reason.

 

[takeitsleazy]

I checked that out - the leads on both lights are exactly the same length, the resulting distance is seemingly the same. The issue is with the harness adapter itself. If you didn't use that accessory, they'd be fine. But I refuse to ever clip into a wire with a piggyback like that. I've seen too much damage, too many issues. They aren't sealed connections like the factory uses. Salt, mist, dirt, water, etc...........



Others have done it so that makes it right? Interesting.

How long have you worked on vehicles - how many wires have you seen broken because of vibrations and movements of the harness? I've seen a lot of it.
You are telling an electrician it's alright, others have done it. Better Oracle fix the problem than other have to deal with it.

They messed up the length.
I don't care if 10 people here did it, that doesn't make it right. I don't want the longer term health of my truck resting on "others have done it".

Oracle left almost a foot extra wire on the left side that has to be looped and secured out of the way - why not trim that side shorter and increase the right side lead on the harness adapter? No cost to them!
It's a design flaw. We are pointing that out otherwise they'd never know.

It would not cost them a single penny to take 2 inches off the left side lead and add 2" to the right side lead for the ADAPTER harness.
Leave the lights themselves alone - they fit fine, the wires are good on the lights. It's only the harness adapter that's incorrect.

Do what you want with your truck.
I want mine right.
I may have no choice for now - or I may let that wire be tight - it's on them for warranty, but when they fix the harness, I want a replacement.

Exactly. I didn’t have a problem with the harness (I just happened to have slot connectors to make an extension), but if the wires are installed as taut as many say they did, I see the point of failure being where the wires enter the unit(s). Very fragile, secondary insulation stops several mils short of the unit. And those small gauge wires have extremely thin insulation

 

[JP_Oracle]

Hey Everyone,

I just want to take a min. to thank you for all of the feedback on the these (Positive & negative). This feedback is crucial to our "Constant Improvement Cycle" process here.

In regards to the cables being too short, i'd like to offer an extension cable free of charge to anyone having a problem with this. It will be a bit longer than needed but will get the job done and allow all connections to remain IP68 waterproof.

If anyone would like this, please PM me your ORACLE order number or a screenshot of your order if bought through one of our retailers & i'll be happy to see to it one gets shipped out for you.

Cheers!

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