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corwin26

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Hey great Jeep. Already regeared and running the Tazer automotive fix for 15k miles. I suppose you won’t be fixing mine.
I have already had mine replaced one time and it has failed again so what is the TAZER fix? I have a Tazer so i will do what you did.
Thanks!
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DanW

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I have already had mine replaced one time and it has failed again so what is the TAZER fix? I have a Tazer so i will do what you did.
Thanks!
It's a simple cable bypass that plugs right in. I'm running it on my JL. Some will say that it doesn't cofirm the locker's engagement or disengagement, but you can feel that in your butt.

I'm not sure the JK had sensors like these. Not sure how it worked, but the JK's locker sensors never seemed to fail like these. If I do replace the sensor, I'm going to pot it before installation.
 

DanW

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It's a simple cable bypass that plugs right in. I'm running it on my JL. Some will say that it doesn't cofirm the locker's engagement or disengagement, but you can feel that in your butt.

I'm not sure the JK had sensors like these. Not sure how it worked, but the JK's locker sensors never seemed to fail like these. If I do replace the sensor, I'm going to pot it before installation.
Btw, I just ran it for a week in October in Moab. No issues. Worked as needed.
 

Trollboogie

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I have it it mine. It functions like normal. The light still comes on when locked and goes off when not. You can tell when the axle is locked or not by the way it drives.
 

DanW

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I have it it mine. It functions like normal. The light still comes on when locked and goes off when not. You can tell when the axle is locked or not by the way it drives.
Yep, and saves an oily mess and the expenditure of what, $300 or so for the sensor kit? Of cours, minus the cost of the Z Auto harness.
 

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corwin26

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It's a simple cable bypass that plugs right in. I'm running it on my JL. Some will say that it doesn't cofirm the locker's engagement or disengagement, but you can feel that in your butt.

I'm not sure the JK had sensors like these. Not sure how it worked, but the JK's locker sensors never seemed to fail like these. If I do replace the sensor, I'm going to pot it before installation.
I ordered it and should have it next week.
Thank you response.
 

erik1220

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Is this fix covered under the 60k mile powertrain warranty?
 

ecidiego

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Take the sensor out and pot it it's well documented on the Wrangler Forum it will never fail again
 

Hootbro

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Is this fix covered under the 60k mile powertrain warranty?
The fix as state in the original post would be covered by the powertrain warranty.
 

five0.4tluv

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I had the flashing lights showing the rear was trying to engage. Now the rear locker shows engaged constantly.. I have the Tazer and I still haven’t seen any codes. I’m going to order the bypass but is this a different symptom?
 

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Maximus Gladius

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I had the flashing lights showing the rear was trying to engage. Now the rear locker shows engaged constantly.. I have the Tazer and I still haven’t seen any codes. I’m going to order the bypass but is this a different symptom?
I’m going to say, if locker engagement and disengagement and the flashing locker dash light is a problem, the first culprit is going to be a plugged up locker sensor magnet that’s coated with metal filings. The only way to correct it is to just get after it.

Pull off the diff covers (rear or both depending what you have), do a nice clean of the internals, undue the locker sensor, (there’s one Torx screw holding it in place over the magnet) and clean off the magnet.

This is a great time to check the sensor to see if oil has breached the sensor. You will easily see oil inside of it if it has and if so, the sensor has shorted out.

If it has and you have warranty, you are now at a cross roads of either fixing it yourself and buying that sensor (approximately $300) and replacing it OR put it all back together and tell the service department to inspect the sensor.

If the sensor looks fine and you see no oil inside (and you still have warranty) you’re at another crossroads. Do I “pot” the sensor and take the chance of voiding that warranty or don’t pot it and just leave it alone. “Potting” it will guarantee that no oil will ever breach the sensor and short out but the sensor magnet will always attract the metal filings and will need cleaning when locker engagement and disengagement becomes an issue again.

Many of us and JL owners have potted their sensors and there’s plenty of detailed “how too’s” here and on the JL site.

When the locker works perfect, the dash light will flash 3 times and it will engage or disengage that fast.

Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0295


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0296


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0297


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0304


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0303


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0299


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0301


Jeep Gladiator Axle Locker Sensor Issue - Repair Kit Fix Released for JT / JL! IMG_0308
 

five0.4tluv

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I’m going to say, if locker engagement and disengagement and the flashing locker dash light is a problem, the first culprit is going to be a plugged up locker sensor magnet that’s coated with metal filings. The only way to correct it is to just get after it.

Pull off the diff covers (rear or both depending what you have), do a nice clean of the internals, undue the locker sensor, (there’s one Torx screw holding it in place over the magnet) and clean off the magnet.

This is a great time to check the sensor to see if oil has breached the sensor. You will easily see oil inside of it if it has and if so, the sensor has shorted out.

If it has and you have warranty, you are now at a cross roads of either fixing it yourself and buying that sensor (approximately $300) and replacing it OR put it all back together and tell the service department to inspect the sensor.

If the sensor looks fine and you see no oil inside (and you still have warranty) you’re at another crossroads. Do I “pot” the sensor and take the chance of voiding that warranty or don’t pot it and just leave it alone. “Potting” it will guarantee that no oil will ever breach the sensor and short out but the sensor magnet will always attract the metal filings and will need cleaning when locker engagement and disengagement becomes an issue again.

Many of us and JL owners have potted their sensors and there’s plenty of detailed “how too’s” here and on the JL site.

When the locker works perfect, the dash light will flash 3 times and it will engage or disengage that fast.

IMG_0295.jpeg


IMG_0296.jpeg


IMG_0297.jpeg


IMG_0304.jpeg


IMG_0303.jpeg


IMG_0299.jpeg


IMG_0301.jpeg


IMG_0308.jpeg
Yeah I’ve read the threads. I’m sure it is a bad sensor and I’ll either get the bypass or get the new replacement sensor. Can I assume that the locker is actually not engaged? I think all the symptoms I’ve read are the locker lights flash and you have a warning on the dash. This eventually will turn into a code or codes and an actual “service locker message”. I have not seen where someone has a solid locker light.
 

Jaxmax

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As Kevin above states above it was reported a long time ago by others that it goes through stages if you keep driving with the occasional locker light flashing after a while it stays on more, then the system detects a problem with rear locker and when you get the service locker code your locker won't work. I had it at 90 miles a couple years ago and cause I have a company truck, I parked the Mojave until it came in ( couple days) and it has been trouble free since with about 35,000 miles now. I have an excellent dealer who agrees with me that the Z bypass is a good idea, and has no problem replacing my sensor under warranty whenever I want , but I'm not sure I ever will, it works you know it all the indicator lights work, my only concern is the Z wiring is pretty thin, but I did tape it all up so might just not worry about it....Jack
 

Maximus Gladius

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As Kevin above states above it was reported a long time ago by others that it goes through stages if you keep driving with the occasional locker light flashing after a while it stays on more, then the system detects a problem with rear locker and when you get the service locker code your locker won't work. I had it at 90 miles a couple years ago and cause I have a company truck, I parked the Mojave until it came in ( couple days) and it has been trouble free since with about 35,000 miles now. I have an excellent dealer who agrees with me that the Z bypass is a good idea, and has no problem replacing my sensor under warranty whenever I want , but I'm not sure I ever will, it works you know it all the indicator lights work, my only concern is the Z wiring is pretty thin, but I did tape it all up so might just not worry about it....Jack
Would I be correct to say the Z bypass doesn’t care if the sensor magnet is full of filings? The wire bypasses the whole sensor and magnet and that just becomes redundant?
 

Jaxmax

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BINGO my friend!!!!
Really when you think about it if you need a sensor to confirm that your lockers are locked after you pushed the button and the light came on...perhaps you should not have a locker, Ha.....Jack
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