Bad Vibration after Front Driveshaft Install

[JeepOfTheseus]

TIL this plate exists. Interestingly, Dana's block off kit includes a larger coupler that basically doesn't slide left or right, and just uses a flat cover.

As an aside, an update for folks:

Not sure if it was related, but I ended up trashing my rear diff pinion/carrier bearings. After the shop fixed this and slightly corrected my pinion angle (I was running it mostly straight at this point, they dropped it a degree), it was still vibrating. They sent the Adam's driveshaft to a local driveline shop who said it was completely out of whack: they described it as being "bent" and "not balanced".

After they did what they could with it, the vibration has basically stopped until about 78-80mph.

While I'm happy to have a smooth ride at 65-75, it's still very disappointing that for this price...not only was it junk to start with, it couldn't even be fixed entirely.

It's unfortunate because the build quality itself seems fine, and they were quick to assemble (maybe not a good thing after all), but the end product doesn't meet expectations.

Sponsored

 

[WILDHOBO]

TIL this plate exists. Interestingly, Dana's block off kit includes a larger coupler that basically doesn't slide left or right, and just uses a flat cover.

As an aside, an update for folks:

Not sure if it was related, but I ended up trashing my rear diff pinion/carrier bearings. After the shop fixed this and slightly corrected my pinion angle (I was running it mostly straight at this point, they dropped it a degree), it was still vibrating. They sent the Adam's driveshaft to a local driveline shop who said it was completely out of whack: they described it as being "bent" and "not balanced".

After they did what they could with it, the vibration has basically stopped until about 78-80mph.

While I'm happy to have a smooth ride at 65-75, it's still very disappointing that for this price...not only was it junk to start with, it couldn't even be fixed entirely.

It's unfortunate because the build quality itself seems fine, and they were quick to assemble (maybe not a good thing after all), but the end product doesn't meet expectations.

It sucks that it’s not working out. But thanks for the review. It will keep me away from those.

 

[GladiatorPilot23]

Hello guys I'm new to all this and read all the page and watch the vid but still confused a little.

Im ordered the Accuair suspention with the upgraded JRi piggyback shocks. The default Hight is 4.0" but can go to 5.5" 25MPH and under.

I was worried that Rzeppa side my strand me on a trip so I bought this also for the front only.

https://danaproparts.com/i-30497557...r-the-jeep-gladiator-jt-#wsm-prod-tab-details

Will I have issues if ever I go 4HI at speed?

 

[WILDHOBO]

Hello guys I'm new to all this and read all the page and watch the vid but still confused a little.

Im ordered the Accuair suspention with the upgraded JRi piggyback shocks. The default Hight is 4.0" but can go to 5.5" 25MPH and under.

I was worried that Rzeppa side my strand me on a trip so I bought this also for the front only.

https://danaproparts.com/i-30497557...r-the-jeep-gladiator-jt-#wsm-prod-tab-details

Will I have issues if ever I go 4HI at speed?

The cv drive shaft will likely vibrate less than a single or double cardan. 4” lift is big though for the stock driveshaft. But there are several more variables to consider. At 4”, you should have upper and lower adjustable control arms to deal with caster and pinion angles. By correcting the pinion angle, you can prevent driveline vibration. But then you lose caster, so will like your steering less. It’s all about finding that Goldilocks spot in the middle.

 

[GladiatorPilot23]

The cv drive shaft will likely vibrate less than a single or double cardan. 4” lift is big though for the stock driveshaft. But there are several more variables to consider. At 4”, you should have upper and lower adjustable control arms to deal with caster and pinion angles. By correcting the pinion angle, you can prevent driveline vibration. But then you lose caster, so will like your steering less. It’s all about finding that Goldilocks spot in the middle.

The kit does come with all the correct control arms so should be good for the pinion angle. So the Dana double cardan may not vibrate then? They say nothing about it on the site and list this style and not a CV style like the rear. I saw the CV boot tear in [Banned Site] video and the CV went bad when testing the Accuair system.

EDIT What the check lol??? Band site???? It was from that youtube channel way the letter A then life. LOL. Why would they ban that word????

 

[WILDHOBO]

The kit does come with all the correct control arms so should be good for the pinion angle. So the Dana double cardan may not vibrate then? They say nothing about it on the site and list this style and not a CV style like the rear. I saw the CV boot tear in [Banned Site] video and the CV went bad when testing the Accuair system.

EDIT What the check lol??? Band site???? It was from that youtube channel way the letter A then life. LOL. Why would they ban that word????

No clue whether a double cardan will, as I don’t know what angle it will be at. Are the control arms adjustable, or just different lengths?

 

[GladiatorPilot23]

No clue whether a double cardan will, as I don’t know what angle it will be at. Are the control arms adjustable, or just different lengths?

Different length none adjustable according to the picture and set for 4" lift as that is default. It is extensively been tested and tuned and made for this air suspension kit from Accuair. It is also now a Mopar kit that you can get from the dealer as well.

You can see here on the Jeep High Top Concept.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

The kit does come with all the correct control arms so should be good for the pinion angle. So the Dana double cardan may not vibrate then?

The kit comes with correct control arms for the correct pinion angle* for the rzeppa cv joint.

The driveshaft you linked has a double cardan at the t-case side, and a single at the axle. Your pinion angle has to be more or less straight with the driveshaft to prevent vibration. Then again, this is the front...how often are you driving in 4H at speed?

Hopefully you can get it dialed in. I'm still dealing with odd vibrations that randomly kick in above 65 mph (sometimes it's smooth as butter at 75, other times it vibrates at 68...I don't know what the deal is).

* it's really more about the caster in the front, as that takes precedence over pinion angle.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The kit comes with correct control arms for the correct pinion angle* for the rzeppa cv joint.

The driveshaft you linked has a double cardan at the t-case side, and a single at the axle. Your pinion angle has to be more or less straight with the driveshaft to prevent vibration. Then again, this is the front...how often are you driving in 4H at speed?

Hopefully you can get it dialed in. I'm still dealing with odd vibrations that randomly kick in above 65 mph (sometimes it's smooth as butter at 75, other times it vibrates at 68...I don't know what the deal is).

* it's really more about the caster in the front, as that takes precedence over pinion angle.

This. Lots of lift kits provide fixed length control arms, but that doesn’t mean that’s what you actually need to really dial things in. I’m aware that acuair sells through dealerships now. But adjustable control arms are the only way to really dial things in. Cv joints can handle more angle than single and double cardan.

Caster takes priority over pinion angle unless you have the 4hi auto transfer case, which I do. Meaning I have my driveshaft rotating at highway speeds relatively often. So preventing vibration is very important, and should be for anyone else using 4hi at faster speeds.

 

[GladiatorPilot23]

The kit comes with correct control arms for the correct pinion angle* for the rzeppa cv joint.

The driveshaft you linked has a double cardan at the t-case side, and a single at the axle. Your pinion angle has to be more or less straight with the driveshaft to prevent vibration. Then again, this is the front...how often are you driving in 4H at speed?

Hopefully you can get it dialed in. I'm still dealing with odd vibrations that randomly kick in above 65 mph (sometimes it's smooth as butter at 75, other times it vibrates at 68...I don't know what the deal is).

* it's really more about the caster in the front, as that takes precedence over pinion angle.

I gotch ya. Keep Caster 4.0-5.5 range from what I read.

Small use case for me going into 4hi would be in the snow but rare if any as I don't go into the snow much. Ill check and see what level is the straightest for the pinion angle and use that level in case. I'll also test out after doing the install in 4hi just to see what happens?


Did you have the vibration from a front shaft or rear shaft or both? What brand and type are you using?

 

[WILDHOBO]

I gotch ya. Keep Caster 4.0-5.5 range from what I read.

Small use case for me going into 4hi would be in the snow but rare if any as I don't go into the snow much. Ill check and see what level is the straightest for the pinion angle and use that level in case. I'll also test out after doing the install in 4hi just to see what happens?


Did you have the vibration from a front shaft or rear shaft or both? What brand and type are you using?

If you’re not using four wheel high drive often, or at high speeds, I wouldn’t worry about it much. You can either leave the stock shaft in until it fails, which will usually be several years, or swap in the new one. At slow off road speeds, you won’t cause a vibration that will hurt anything, meaning 4low, or 4hi under 30mph sustained.

When you originally said you were worried about vibration, I assumed you were planning to rotate that front drive shaft on the highway from time to time. If rare or slowly, you’ll be fine. Sorry for my misunderstanding of your situation. For me, higher speed front driveshaft issues need to be considered more.

 

[Soulfa535]

Hi All,

Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I'm just trying to recap everything I read and hope to get confirmation on my path forward. For reference I have a 24 JTR without a FAD.

I installed a Clayton 2.5" Overland + on my JTR back in March. I bought their "package" with shocks and steering linkage. From what I had researched before installing the lift, I was a borderline candidate for a front drive shaft swap. I figured I'd run it until I went to 37s. I have had zero vibrations and the Jeep runs great as far as I'm concerned.

I order wheels and tires this week so I figured I better start thinking about a drive shaft now. I took a peak under the Jeep and noticed the Rzeppa joint was toast. I stared looking around the web for drive shafts and noticed a warning on one vendors site about vibrations in after market shafts on JTs without FAD.

That info lead me to start researching this driveshaft swap quite a bit more and I found this thread.

So here are my thoughts. Please correct me where you feel I might off on something.

It seems like there is not a product readily available on the market that is a fix-all for my problem. I must live with what is the best, worst option for me.

I'm going to install the 37s when they show up to make sure gremlins don't pop-up from that. I only want to troubleshoot one problem at a time. Afterwards, I buy the new drive shaft, install it, and cross my finger I'm vibrations free. If I do experience vibration, I lower my caster until I get to a vibration point I can live with but not passing ~5, possibly 4.5 deg caster.

If that doesn't work, I install a FAD powered from an aux switch and just live with vibration if I'm running at higher speed in 4H?

As the Jeep sits now (w/ 33s) it has a 7 deg pinion angle. The alignment readout I got after my lift install says my caster is at 5.2 deg.

The Jeep is my daily driver. We use it to go rock crawling maybe once a month. Nothing to extreme. I'd say the hardest trail we have done is Top of the World in Moab. Also, seeing speeds of 45 to 55 on unimproved dirt road is not uncommon either.

Anyways, I'll stop babbling on. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

-David

 

[WILDHOBO]

Hi All,

Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I'm just trying to recap everything I read and hope to get confirmation on my path forward. For reference I have a 24 JTR without a FAD.

I installed a Clayton 2.5" Overland + on my JTR back in March. I bought their "package" with shocks and steering linkage. From what I had researched before installing the lift, I was a borderline candidate for a front drive shaft swap. I figured I'd run it until I went to 37s. I have had zero vibrations and the Jeep runs great as far as I'm concerned.

I order wheels and tires this week so I figured I better start thinking about a drive shaft now. I took a peak under the Jeep and noticed the Rzeppa joint was toast. I stared looking around the web for drive shafts and noticed a warning on one vendors site about vibrations in after market shafts on JTs without FAD.

That info lead me to start researching this driveshaft swap quite a bit more and I found this thread.

So here are my thoughts. Please correct me where you feel I might off on something.

It seems like there is not a product readily available on the market that is a fix-all for my problem. I must live with what is the best, worst option for me.

I'm going to install the 37s when they show up to make sure gremlins don't pop-up from that. I only want to troubleshoot one problem at a time. Afterwards, I buy the new drive shaft, install it, and cross my finger I'm vibrations free. If I do experience vibration, I lower my caster until I get to a vibration point I can live with but not passing ~5, possibly 4.5 deg caster.

If that doesn't work, I install a FAD powered from an aux switch and just live with vibration if I'm running at higher speed in 4H?

As the Jeep sits now (w/ 33s) it has a 7 deg pinion angle. The alignment readout I got after my lift install says my caster is at 5.2 deg.

The Jeep is my daily driver. We use it to go rock crawling maybe once a month. Nothing to extreme. I'd say the hardest trail we have done is Top of the World in Moab. Also, seeing speeds of 45 to 55 on unimproved dirt road is not uncommon either.

Anyways, I'll stop babbling on. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

-David

I’ve been looking for this solution for like 4 years. I have a FAD on my 21 JTR, but I have the 4hi auto transfer case, so can run at highway speeds with the driveshaft rotating. I’ve killled two Oem driveshafts in front. I now have a double cardan 1350 up there. I’d owned the shaft for years, but due to the problem, I kept avoiding putting it in. But the day before a trip to Moab I found my new mopar shaft blown again, and had to put it in. It’s fine, but I do get a vibration at higher speeds. I don’t see a cost effective solution. It used to be my daily driver, so it was a bigger deal then. Now I just deal with it as it’s not as of recently. The real solution, as far as I can tell, is a high pinion axle, allowing for good caster and perfect driveline angles. But it drives me crazy that I’d likely lose my 4hi auto functionality with an aftermarket axle without a fad. Rock and a hard place stuff. Let me know if you have other thoughts. I’ll do the same.

 

[bleda2002]

I’ve been looking for this solution for like 4 years. I have a FAD on my 21 JTR, but I have the 4hi auto transfer case, so can run at highway speeds with the driveshaft rotating. I’ve killled two Oem driveshafts in front. I now have a double cardan 1350 up there. I’d owned the shaft for years, but due to the problem, I kept avoiding putting it in. But the day before a trip to Moab I found my new mopar shaft blown again, and had to put it in. It’s fine, but I do get a vibration at higher speeds. I don’t see a cost effective solution. It used to be my daily driver, so it was a bigger deal then. Now I just deal with it as it’s not as of recently. The real solution, as far as I can tell, is a high pinion axle, allowing for good caster and perfect driveline angles. But it drives me crazy that I’d likely lose my 4hi auto functionality with an aftermarket axle without a fad. Rock and a hard place stuff. Let me know if you have other thoughts. I’ll do the same.

Why would you lose 4 auto? Just get rcvs with the new axle and you'll be fine. Jeep stopped adding fads awhile ago.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Why would you lose 4 auto? Just get rcvs with the new axle and you'll be fine. Jeep stopped adding fads awhile ago.

4hi auto uses the fad to either engage or disengage axle shafts, when the speed sensors sense slip/traction loss in the rear.

To my knowledge, they started not including fads in 2024.

Sponsored