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Banks tuner
- Thread starter Saltymedic
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Gladiator_92
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good news is you can monitor the EGTs on the monitor yourself and if they are high you can back off the power or power setting.
Jeep-A-Kneez
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Even for the tuner on my old 5.9 Cummins says not to tow in the performance setting. It has a light and heavy tow modes for that.
Now for those that have these new Banks or any other tuners that might be out there, any evidence of black exhaust or rolling coal as it's called.
Now for those that have these new Banks or any other tuners that might be out there, any evidence of black exhaust or rolling coal as it's called.
Yuri
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I don’t believe that will be the case as the banks tuner keeps all DPF equipment and everything exhaust related intact and in use.
Yuri
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So I installed mine last night and all I can say is it truly does give more power then in stock, very noticeable difference and I am very pleased with my purchase. Now thinking of adding in the pedal monster as well
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Gladiator_92
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Anyone notice any transmission shifting differences? how it shifts or when it shifts compared to stock?
M390
Well-Known Member
Installed the Pedal Monster and Derringer/Data Monster today. Absolutely love the power increase and responsiveness. Pedal Monster alone would‘ve been very worth the while. Together the 2 mods are nasty though. I did however take matters into my own hands with that gawd awful suction cup gauge mount...
I hacked up the pod and bolted it straight to the A pillar trim with a 10mm bolt.
Waay less intrusive to me.
I hacked up the pod and bolted it straight to the A pillar trim with a 10mm bolt.
Waay less intrusive to me.
n8leav
Active Member
Awesome! Can you provide more pictures or details on the install?
Installed the Pedal Monster and Derringer/Data Monster today. Absolutely love the power increase and responsiveness. Pedal Monster alone would‘ve been very worth the while. Together the 2 mods are nasty though. I did however take matters into my own hands with that gawd awful suction cup gauge mount...
I hacked up the pod and bolted it straight to the A pillar trim with a 10mm bolt.
Waay less intrusive to me.
M390
Well-Known Member
I should’ve been more proactive documenting the process but it’s really simple.
I drilled a hole to pass a 10mm bolt thru the side of the gauge pod and held it up to the a pillar about where I thought it should sit. Then used a silver marker to mark a spot on the a pillar thru the drilled hole in the pod onto the a pillar trim piece. The trim piece was unbolted and pulled loose and I drilled a hole for the 10mm bolt in it as well. A unibit was then used to make a 3/4” hole in the back of the pod to pass the wires coming from the Derringer and the OBD port directly thru the back of the pod. I felt the wires coming up thru the A pillar trim piece were concealed better this way. Bolt the pod without the gauge in it to the trim piece then replace the trim on the A pillar. Let the trim piece hang loose kind of halfway in position and keep enough slack in your wires so that you can run them up thru the hole in the back of the pod mount out the front of it and plug them into your gauge, then push the gauge into position into the pod mount. Make sure when bolting the trim back in place that your wiring that is going to run behind it is not directly behind the bolt holes in the trim piece or they could get crushed. Ask me how I know..?
M390
Well-Known Member
I also cut down the little stainless bolt that clamps the pod around the gauge with a Dremel to shorten it. Its too long when not used in conjunction with the arm on the suction cup mount.
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M390
Well-Known Member
Gotta give Banks customer service some props. I called to get a replacement wiring harness for the one I damaged during install completely expecting to pay for it. I explained I damaged it due to my own negligence. They wouldn’t hear of letting me pay for it and sent me a fresh one for the cost of shipping. 8$...
n8leav
Active Member
Awesome thank you! Do you feel the piece you drilled through the a pillar will be strong enough to hold it over a few years? It's just plastic correct?
I'm also wondering on whether these put more 'wear' on your engine or not. Are they harder on your engine, or do they actually just provide better function??
I'm also wondering on whether these put more 'wear' on your engine or not. Are they harder on your engine, or do they actually just provide better function??
I should’ve been more proactive documenting the process but it’s really simple.
I drilled a hole to pass a 10mm bolt thru the side of the gauge pod and held it up to the a pillar about where I thought it should sit. Then used a silver marker to mark a spot on the a pillar thru the drilled hole in the pod onto the a pillar trim piece. The trim piece was unbolted and pulled loose and I drilled a hole for the 10mm bolt in it as well. A unibit was then used to make a 3/4” hole in the back of the pod to pass the wires coming from the Derringer and the OBD port directly thru the back of the pod. I felt the wires coming up thru the A pillar trim piece were concealed better this way. Bolt the pod without the gauge in it to the trim piece then replace the trim on the A pillar. Let the trim piece hang loose kind of halfway in position and keep enough slack in your wires so that you can run them up thru the hole in the back of the pod mount out the front of it and plug them into your gauge, then push the gauge into position into the pod mount. Make sure when bolting the trim back in place that your wiring that is going to run behind it is not directly behind the bolt holes in the trim piece or they could get crushed. Ask me how I know..?
staying_tuned
Well-Known Member
Looks like AeroForce offers a Gladiator/Wrangler single 52mm pillar pod. I ran a trio of their gauges on a coyote mustang, great company but their website is atrocious. Here is the pod on their ebay listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/402917757990
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