Biggest tire I can get with no regearing needed?

[Painkillerspe]

I believe I paid around $2300 in the northeast.

side note: prior to regear I was (still am) lifted on 35s. I towed my landscape trailer empty mostly freeway and relatively flat for a 2 hour round trip. Youd think I had been towing the dang titanic. What a miserable experience.

today I towed (for the first time since 4.88) our 20 foot pontoon boat across town. You’d have thought there was a jet ski back there. Night. And. Day.

Can't wait to tow with mine. I don't regret spending the money to regear at all. So much better.

Sponsored

 

[Charles 236]

A regear will be money well spent, provided that the gears are set up correctly. I had a Wrangler in the shop yesterday that had been regeared to 4.56 from the stock 3.45. This allowed it to run pretty well with the 35s that were on it. There is one other thing about regearing, if you want a better differential (locker or an upgraded limited slip) do it when you have it regeared. Before reusing the TracLok differential, make sure that the clutches and pinion gears are in good shape. If the gear lube in your axle is blackened, or has metallic particles in it, the differential probably doesn't work well enough to be worth reusing. Just my experience, based on rebuilding and setting up many axles in a a variety of vehicles.

 

[Rocksalt]

I wont go past 33" tires on my 3.73 Sport S. Then think about tire and new rim weight if buying aftermarket rims.

 

[FloridaMan655321]

If you like the Mojave or Rubicon tires/wheels, get those. You should be able to get them fairly cheap from people who have replaced theirs (and you might be able to sell yours for around the same price to offset)

 

[Jeepin' John]

I went from 285/70 (33's) to 285/75 (34's) on my 3.73's and think it drives just fine. Still getting 18 to 19 mpg average "town" driving. Similar hunting between 7th and 8th on the highway. Would definitely go with the 34's again. It's a pretty balanced look with a 1.5" leveling kit

 

[Boostnu]

34s either a 285/75/17 or 315/70/17 would work pretty good. I ran 315/70/17 on mine before the regear and 37s.

 

[Coachcal]

I am in central Texas and just put in the 35" Kenda Klevers last week. I commute through the hill country every day There are some differences in shift patterns but it still drives great.

I can't really speak to the mpg change yet as I haven't reprogrammed it for the bigger tires yet. Still researching what type of scanner to buy since I have several changes to make.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Stock size. 33” or less.

29s would probably work pretty good. ?

 

[Oneshotlucky]

I have a stock Overland 2021 JT. Tires and wheel sizes are 255/70R18 all terrain. I can't stand the way they look lol. However, I don't have the money for a big lift, and regearing. The stock on the Overlands is the 3.73 axel ratio. So, simple answers are needed please What's the biggest size I can go without altering the stock parts? I've read that some people go to 35's but have issues with the gears and MPG plummets even more. So I'm leaning maybe toward 33's? I would love some input and feedback from you guys that know much more than I do. TIA!

I added BFG 34x10.5x17 on my stock Willy’s! Not sure if they make them for 18’s? After mounting and manufacture size chart they say they are 33.5 in diameter and still close after mounting, they look good mpg is almost 20.

 

[Holes]

33s are going to be the way to go if you’re keepin MPG in mind.

I run 35s with 3.73s and I have no concerns with it but I also don’t care that I hover around 14.5mpg.

That’s good to hear. I’ve got a Sport and I’m going to put 315/70/17’s on it. I’m not concerned about mileage, and I live in a relatively flat area. Any hill driving I do on vacations is a moot point. I’ll deal with it.
And the gear benefits of Four Low in the transfer case will be plenty for me. I’m not a rock crawler.
My off road driving would be woods trails or old unmaintained fire/forestry roads. My 3.5” lift will be going in as soon as I can get a weekend to install it.

 

[DailyMoparGuy]

I am in central Texas and just put in the 35" Kenda Klevers last week. I commute through the hill country every day There are some differences in shift patterns but it still drives great.

I can't really speak to the mpg change yet as I haven't reprogrammed it for the bigger tires yet. Still researching what type of scanner to buy since I have several changes to make.

I have the JSCAN app, vgate OBD plug in, and bypass cables. They work great for changing tire size and LED light settings if you go halogen to LED. Axle ratio updates can also be made if you regear.

I’m actually doing the Texas Hill Country Overland Route next weekend (and maybe Hidden Falls OHV Park). Can’t wait to hit the road and see how the new Klevars do.

 

[Barnaby’sdad]

If you like the Mojave or Rubicon tires/wheels, get those. You should be able to get them fairly cheap from people who have replaced theirs (and you might be able to sell yours for around the same price to offset)

That would be my recommendation, as well. Get a set of take-offs and save the difference (vs. aftermarket wheels and new 33’s) towards 35’s and eventual regear (if that’s your goal).

 

[DocMike]

I 100% agree. I live in Co Springs. 33 were tolerable.
I did 35s and went RIGHT to 4.88

Personally, with 3.73s, I would not go higher than 33" tires, and look for light weight ones..... I know that is not what you want to hear, but..... that is the way I see it..... especially if you live in the mountains. Flat landers can have more flexibilty, but, I live in the mountains.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I'm not saying tire weight doesn't matter at all, but it's nowhere near the effect of increased diameter. It's certainly going to affect acceleration a bit, and definitely affect brake wear. but it's not even close to the biggest issue. The reason you need to regear when going up a tire size isn't because you're pushing 10 or even 20lbs more tire, it's because the 5,000lb vehicle you're moving is now leveraged 18.5 inches away instead of 16.5 inches away (going from 33s to 37s for example). It's the weight of the car you have to move from further away that matters more than the rotational mass.

Ask anyone who's tried to go from "heavy" 35s (73 lbs baja bosses) to a "light" 37 (63lb k02-Cs) if dropping tire weight in any way made up for the increase in tire diameter. it wouldn't.

I'll have to disagree on this one, weight absolutely makes a difference. Both actually are pretty equal. By only adding about 9 extra pounds a wheel, I've been able to only go from 18.4 to around 17.6 MPG's going from 315 70 17 BFG KO2s to 37 12.5 17 Kanati Trail Hogs. KO2s weighed 63lbs Kanati's weigh 72lbs. I got 4.10 gears with the Max Tow

Consider this that my Buddies running 315 70 17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers on his Rubicon Gladiator and he's only getting 17.4 MPG's with similar driving habits in the same area. His tires weigh 70lbs a piece.

3 factors to consider are weight, size and tread when looking at tires and MPG'S. My Goodyear Kevlar MTRs in a 37 12.5 17 had similar weight as the Kanati's but I was only able to get the mpgs to around 17.2 running those on the Gladiator.

 

[BGH]

I just put 35s on my rubicon and I would not want those with 3.73 axles.

Sponsored