Body mount bolts

[RavensEyeOffroad]

Removing factory rock rails.
Wow what a nightmare these are. So passenger front is real nasty feeling. I've tried backing out then putting it back in, giving it time etc. It's gonna snap imo.
Drivers side: can't get one to go back in. It wants to spin. I'm trying to push down on the washer while tightening, not much luck.
Any tips or advice?

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[hjdca]

My factory Rubicon Rock rails did not attach to the body bolts. My Rock Slide Engineering steps do attach to the body bolts, but, they slide on. All I had to do is loosen the body bolts, not take them off. For loosening, I heated them up with a torch, 20 seconds on, 40 seconds off a few times and let the heat travel up the bolt to loosen the locktite, then, loosen 1/4 turn, and tighten 1/8 of a turn; this keeps the threads clean as you loosen. Be careful with the heat, you do not want to burn the rubber bushing.

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

My factory Rubicon Rock rails did not attach to the body bolts. My Rock Slide Engineering steps do attach to the body bolts, but, they slide on. All I had to do is loosen the body bolts, not take them off. For loosening, I heated them up with a torch, 20 seconds on, 40 seconds off a few times and let the heat travel up the bolt to loosen the locktite, then, loosen 1/4 turn, and tighten 1/8 of a turn; this keeps the threads clean as you loosen. Be careful with the heat, you do not want to burn the rubber bushing.

I guess thats what I get for watching a youtube video on what to expect on removing those. Ill have to try and find someone with some heat as I dont have any. ugh

 

[hjdca]

I guess thats what I get for watching a youtube video on what to expect on removing those. Ill have to try and find someone with some heat as I dont have any. ugh

The body nuts are tack welded on. There are many here in the first run of Gladiators that had these nuts break loose. Some got it covered under warranty because the nuts should be welded on more secure and should not break free because of the red locktite. If you have found that a nut has broken free, you should try to get it covered under warranty. If you search through this forum from 2019, 2020, you will see people with this problem.

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

It's not broken but I cant tighten it back, it is very difficult to spin.

 

[exfil offroad]

It's not broken but I cant tighten one back it is very difficult to spin.

good luck, jeep uses aluminum bolts and red loktite on the front bolts. I broke my driver side front bolt on my 18 JL. Had to cut the wheel well open and have it replaced with a steel bolt. the rest should be blue loktite. Terrible how they do that. Most success seems to come from impact or heating.

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

good luck, jeep uses aluminum bolts and red loktite on the front bolts. I broke my driver side front bolt on my 18 JL. Had to cut the wheel well open and have it replaced with a steel bolt. the rest should be blue loktite. Terrible how they do that. Most success seems to come from impact or heating.

I'm thinking about putting a shim in and try another turn or two and call it done.

 

[Jimmij]

Installed the RSe side esters this weekend. Just used the 1/2 turn forward and 1/4 turn back. Worked out well

 

[kevman65]

It's not broken but I cant tighten it back, it is very difficult to spin.

One of two things, or the combination of both, is happening.
There is loc-tite in the nut, it's set up, and is causing resistance.
Back it out until it turns free, run it back in, back it out, run it in.
This will warm it up and things will get easier and you'll be able to bottom the bolt.

The other thing could be, threads are burred or cross threaded. Not much you can do in this case because you can't access the nut.

If you back the bolt all the way out, look at the threads on the bolt. If they look wonky, they've been cross threaded.

 

[exfil offroad]

I'm thinking about putting a shim in and try another turn or two and call it done.

i wouldnt do that, i would just put a torque to it and if it breaks its fixable. kinda a pain but better than a loose body bolt that will end up causing noise over time.

 

[RavensEyeOffroad]

I took out a total of 3 body bolts but this 4th one is f'd. I did the tighten/loosen deal with it and it just isn't right. It's close to the top but no way on earth I'll get it out without snapping it off. I think it was cross threaded from the factory. I only need 1 full turn or less and it will be where it started. It's just loose enough for that body washer (orwhatever it is) to rattle a touch.

 

[whiteglad]

The bolts are coated steel, not aluminum. I turned out all 6 of my body mount bolts with a ratchet, greased the threads of the replacement bolts so I would not have to contend with residual loctite on the threads of the nuts.

 

[teamblkdog]

I used a rubber mallet to coax the body bolts into position, then I was able to tighten. Use anti-seize before putting them back.

 

[Renegade]

The body nuts are tack welded on. There are many here in the first run of Gladiators that had these nuts break loose. Some got it covered under warranty because the nuts should be welded on more secure and should not break free because of the red locktite. If you have found that a nut has broken free, you should try to get it covered under warranty. If you search through this forum from 2019, 2020, you will see people with this problem.

The nuts themselves are not welded to the body. They lock in via some “wings” which fit into slots in a retainer which is welded to the body. It may be possible to get them to engage again if positioned and twisted properly.

 

[Renegade]

Removing factory rock rails.
Wow what a nightmare these are. So passenger front is real nasty feeling. I've tried backing out then putting it back in, giving it time etc. It's gonna snap imo.
Drivers side: can't get one to go back in. It wants to spin. I'm trying to push down on the washer while tightening, not much luck.
Any tips or advice?

Which rock sliders are you replacing the stock rails with?

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