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Brake Controller Adapter Wiring

Doctorsky

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I have noticed that there is no continuous +12VDC on the Brake Controller harness that is provided in the Jeep Gladiator (under the driver-side dash). Has anyone run into this, and how have you overcome this issue for Brake Controllers like the Curt Spectrum, that requires a continuous (at least when the ignition is 'on') +12VDC?
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sarguy1941

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Not sur which harness you looking at but I have GRD, DC+, Brake Switch and Trailer Brake wire. Standard as on every controller I have ever wired.
 
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Doctorsky

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Not sur which harness you looking at but I have GRD, DC+, Brake Switch and Trailer Brake wire. Standard as on every controller I have ever wired.
I purchased the Curt #51527, which is designed for the Gladiator. However, I'm actually measuring the voltage on the Gladiator Connector (without the Adapter connected), and all connections measure correctly EXCEPT the +12VDC, which does not appear to be available on the designated pin. Any thoughts?
 

sarguy1941

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Assume you checked the fuse block ? Assume you also have tow package/max tow ?

There are a ton of threads on here with wiring info. If I recall my harness is solid black for 12 V+, white GRND and Blue to trailer. Red was brake trigger. I dont know the color code on the CURT but guessing its similar.
 

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I have noticed that there is no continuous +12VDC on the Brake Controller harness that is provided in the Jeep Gladiator (under the driver-side dash). Has anyone run into this, and how have you overcome this issue for Brake Controllers like the Curt Spectrum, that requires a continuous (at least when the ignition is 'on') +12VDC?
Are you posting because you just tested and noticed this, or because you plugged in the controller and it's not working?

There have not yet been any posts by anyone complaining that the brake controller doesn't power up when connected to the factory harness.
 

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Doctorsky

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Are you posting because you just tested and noticed this, or because you plugged in the controller and it's not working?

There have not yet been any posts by anyone complaining that the brake controller doesn't power up when connected to the factory harness.
Mr._Bill, I installed the Curt Spectrum Controller, and noticed that I could not enter any of the 'set-up' modes. I removed the Controller, and it worked perfectly on my test bench. After digging in, I found that there is no +12VDC on the Black wire as expected. I traced it back and found that there is also no +12VDC on the Gladiator Connector. All other signals are there, and working fine.
 

Mr._Bill

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Mr._Bill, I installed the Curt Spectrum Controller, and noticed that I could not enter any of the 'set-up' modes. I removed the Controller, and it worked perfectly on my test bench. After digging in, I found that there is no +12VDC on the Black wire as expected. I traced it back and found that there is also no +12VDC on the Gladiator Connector. All other signals are there, and working fine.
It may just be a loose or blown fuse. I would check that, and then take it the dealer if you can't get it to work.
 
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Doctorsky

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It may just be a loose or blown fuse. I would check that, and then take it the dealer if you can't get it to work.
Hello, Mr._Bill
It turned out to be a blown fuse. It was not evident when just examining the fuse from the top, but determined it to be blown after extracting it for a close look.

Thanks
 

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I have noticed that there is no continuous +12VDC on the Brake Controller harness that is provided in the Jeep Gladiator (under the driver-side dash). Has anyone run into this, and how have you overcome this issue for Brake Controllers like the Curt Spectrum, that requires a continuous (at least when the ignition is 'on') +12VDC?
I bought a Black Series HQ15 trailer and the Curt Echo controller. The Gladiator put out some wild voltages which caused faults on the Echo. I am sitting in a Jeep dealership having the OEM controller installed. Hope it works!!
 

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I bought a Black Series HQ15 trailer and the Curt Echo controller. The Gladiator put out some wild voltages which caused faults on the Echo. I am sitting in a Jeep dealership having the OEM controller installed. Hope it works!!
That's funny...my dealer said that the MOPAR controller was not available for two to three months, and also that it was 'under development'. In addition, they were quoting $350 for the unit and $100 to install. I got one at my trailer dealership for $138 (with proper adapter)plus about $40 to install. Kinda steep install price for plugging it in and a couple of screws to mount. But, works perfectly. I got the Tekonsha Primus IQ.
 

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Mbryson

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Hello, Mr._Bill
It turned out to be a blown fuse. It was not evident when just examining the fuse from the top, but determined it to be blown after extracting it for a close look.

Thanks

Any chance you remember which fuse? I'm thinking I should get positive feedback through the red wire when I apply the brake. I get nothing. Can't seem to find a brake controller fuse other than 36 and possibly 37.

Red wire for brake controller matches up with green w/white tracer on the "truck"
 

ShadowsPapa

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Any chance you remember which fuse? I'm thinking I should get positive feedback through the red wire when I apply the brake. I get nothing. Can't seem to find a brake controller fuse other than 36 and possibly 37.

Red wire for brake controller matches up with green w/white tracer on the "truck"
There is no red wire - unless your controller harness has a red wire.
You did not say which controller you have.

The wiring harness in the truck that you connect to has:
  • beige with red trace,
  • black,
  • dark green
  • dark green with white trace

37 is power to the trailer connector and nothing to do with brakes.
IGNORE fuse F37. It's of no concern for trailer brakes or a brake controller.
Only 36 is related to the trailer brake controller - that's power TO the brake controller.

36 is power to the brake controller from the truck via the beige with red trace.
Dark green with white trace is the signal from the ABS controller (brake lights). That's what would have power when you press the brake pedal.
Dark green with no trace goes from controller back to trailer brakes.

Depending on the brake controller you bought and the harness that came with it - it could be wired wrong for a Jeep Gladiator. Some are wired for Ram trucks.

In the schematic below, the blue box represents the truck's connector for a trailer brake controller ->

Jeep Gladiator Brake Controller Adapter Wiring Screenshot 2023-06-29 085725
 

Mbryson

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I reset my Tazer trailer lights and now I have a controller. Lights were "on", I turned them "off", reset the Tazer, turned them "on" and reset the Tazer and now I have trailer brakes


Silly Chrysler thing....
 

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I reset my Tazer trailer lights and now I have a controller. Lights were "on", I turned them "off", reset the Tazer, turned them "on" and reset the Tazer and now I have trailer brakes


Silly Chrysler thing....
Crazy how techy this stuff has gotten!
 

ShadowsPapa

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I reset my Tazer trailer lights and now I have a controller. Lights were "on", I turned them "off", reset the Tazer, turned them "on" and reset the Tazer and now I have trailer brakes


Silly Chrysler thing....
No, it's a silly tazer thing. If you had said you were messing around with a tazer and turning trailer lights on and off with a tazer, we'd have said - there's your problem - you.

No one else has ever had any issues with connecting in a brake controller. Your issue was caused by you and tazer.
Zero issues with the stock Jeep trailer setup. It works fine for anyone else, plug and play.

I don't know what you were doing or thinking you were doing using tazer to do what with trailer lights? Why did you use tazer trailer lights - what does that even mean?

Why are you screwing around with trailer lights using a tazer? What's the point or goal?
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