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Can you please post your experiences and mainly any DOWNSIDES or annoyances to lifting your jeep?

21_GLADIATOR

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Hi everyone, are there an changes that happened as a result of leveling - or lifting your jeep in addition like 2-3.5" that annoy you? I am trying to look at this from more than just one angle. Like squeaks/rattles, braking, accelerating, MPG (diesel?), handling, stability or general annoyances that you now live with or figured out? Do you ever think of going back to stock height? Thanks in advance!
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Camaroboi13

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I lost 1.5-2 mpg when I did my leveling kit on my diesel. Went from 28.5 average to 26.8ish. 37s brought me down to 22.5mpg, and going from leveled to 4.5” lift lost zero fuel economy. Other than a shock bolt loosening up and a sway bar bolt falling out (both my fault), I don’t have any other issues with the lift. My wife hates getting in and out now, I carry a step stool with me everywhere I go. I guess that’s a negative.

I can also say that the steering is a bit more vague than it used to be. On roads with crowns in them my steering wheel may be 8-10 degrees In either direction based on what side of the road I’m on.
 

chorky

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If I left mine stock, I would’ve saved at least $10,000.
Thats why I'm going with AEV - much cheaper and will work for the 90% use.


One thing I am not looking forward to is with the extra 3.5" (if you also consider upping to 35's) the extra difficulty of getting in and out - for me thats kinda a big deal. And that also means getting into the rear. As it is now I can lift my left knee just enough to place on the edge of the tailgate and pull myself up despite it being painful. With the extra 3.5" I probably will end up needing a step stool. I am also not looking forward to a 'rougher' ride as I like the plush ride of the rubicon despite the shocks being far under dampened - but I need the extra weight capacity of the springs. Well see how the shock do and if I will need to get custom tuned options in the future.
 

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RK Racing

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Thats why I'm going with AEV - much cheaper and will work for the 90% use.


One thing I am not looking forward to is with the extra 3.5" (if you also consider upping to 35's) the extra difficulty of getting in and out - for me thats kinda a big deal. And that also means getting into the rear. As it is now I can lift my left knee just enough to place on the edge of the tailgate and pull myself up despite it being painful. With the extra 3.5" I probably will end up needing a step stool. I am also not looking forward to a 'rougher' ride as I like the plush ride of the rubicon despite the shocks being far under dampened - but I need the extra weight capacity of the springs. Well see how the shock do and if I will need to get custom tuned options in the future.
The only way you’re going to get a rougher ride if you go with a cheaper kit. I went “”Balls To Da Wall”” with Teraflex long arm suspension and Rock Slider Engineering Power Steps for easy exit in the entry into the Jeep. I probably should have added at least another six more thousand dollars to that ten to make it a total of 16,000 +. Google” Rock Slide engineering” and watch the videos on the steps. They are the best. I have installed them on both of our jeeps.
 

Jefe1018

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I have to hop up into it, literally, when wearing dress pants with less stretch.
 
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21_GLADIATOR

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Thanks everyone so far:
Camaroboi13 - "37s brought me down to 22.5mpg" <-- This, Im still new and dont know what stock height is but I WONDER if the way to combat this is with lighter tires? I did some comparisons and found good quality larger tires .. I dunno like.. 255's vs my 235's for example that weigh the same! I dont think the size tire matters as much as the WEIGHT? Correct me if I am wrong anyone.

"I can also say that the steering is a bit more vague than it used to be. On roads with crowns in them my steering wheel may be 8-10 degrees In either direction based on what side of the road I’m on." <-- Curious if this is a result of lift or tire? I think tire but not sure.

RX Racing - "If I left mine stock, I would’ve saved at least $10,000." <-- yea man.. been there, done that.. :headbang:

Chorky - "As it is now I can lift my left knee just enough to place on the edge.." <-- lol, me too.. right now I can get in with ease. just right for my height while others do struggle.. mainly women. Yes I will HAVE to get some sort of runner ..but I dont like long runners.. rather get a loop like step or whatever.. Thats more $ to add.. BUT with no runner; I can CLEAR objects that others cant.. no worries on catching even tho Im not lifted - for now.
 

HappyGladiator

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I went with the Mopar 2 inch lift and i am happy with it. Good ride, corners great, not too tall, better off road clearance. I added Synergy adj track bars front and rear. The kit came with longer front lower control arms that give me 6.1 deg caster so perfect. Will probably add some adj rear lower control arms to adjust rear pinion angle up a little for the rear DS.
If I really wanted 37s I probably should have gone with a 3 inch lift as they will rub now at full flex. All is good with the 315s.
 

WILDHOBO

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Mine is lifted 3” in front and 4.5” in the rear. I’m running 37” Mickey Thomsons. The suspension is better than stock, as the stock rubicon shocks were super bouncy. I upgraded all steering components to handle the extra weight and stresses. I also upgraded the front axle shafts with RCV’s. I also regeared to 5.13’s. I could go on. Basically, my opinion is that you’ll have regrets if you lift it for looks alone, or if you don’t address all the components that should be when lifting. Fuel economy certainly went down, and it’s heavier, but I have no regrets. I did it so be able to handle difficult trails while maintaining towing/hauling capacity, and it absolutely does. So probably the only downside is the cost. But I truly love it, and can’t imagine going back to stock. That said, I don’t think it will ever get bigger. It’s at the point where going further would change it too much for the truck things we use it for on a daily basis.
 

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21_GLADIATOR

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This may sound like a little but of a rant but its really some of my experience (non jeep) on other cars and spending money and time on tracking down issues. Which is why I started the thread of which y'all have been extremely helpful - thank you.

Based on your and other's experiences and what I am reading, it would seem to me that ANY lift needs adjustable fronts and maybe rear components, that are not included in MANY kits - to re-align the .. alignment AND the driveshaft or anything else? INCLUDING carrier bearing spacers or what have you, that I havent seen in ANY kits so far.

As a result, there will be added binding or stress on existing components that are now - not factory spec. This in turn will cause NVH, handling or long- term damage while we go smiling down the road - for a time. Im not trying to take the joy out of any of this bc it is all fun; BUT I think manufacturers are selling us kits that will get us started and that is good and bad. Because to do it RIGHT costs more. To get sucked in costs LESS but then we will be back for MORE, rather than doing things right the first time :o :). As a consumer I think folks should be careful here. Why? We end up buying things twice or mixing and matching components with different vendors and none of them can figure out why our vehicle pulls to the left now.. or why it vibrates @ 65 or whatever. I am learning about jeeps but I have had many cars and will also recommended not doing too much at once either bc then its really hard to track down the issue. Someone said here or somewhere else use one vendor and stick with it. I though that was good advice too!
 

WILDHOBO

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This may sound like a little but of a rant but its really some of my experience (non jeep) on other cars and spending money and time on tracking down issues. Which is why I started the thread of which y'all have been extremely helpful - thank you.

Based on your and other's experiences and what I am reading, it would seem to me that ANY lift needs adjustable fronts and maybe rear components, that are not included in MANY kits - to re-align the .. alignment AND the driveshaft or anything else? INCLUDING carrier bearing spacers or what have you, that I havent seen in ANY kits so far.

As a result, there will be added binding or stress on existing components that are now - not factory spec. This in turn will cause NVH, handling or long- term damage while we go smiling down the road - for a time. Im not trying to take the joy out of any of this bc it is all fun; BUT I think manufacturers are selling us kits that will get us started and that is good and bad. Because to do it RIGHT costs more. To get sucked in costs LESS but then we will be back for MORE, rather than doing things right the first time :o :). As a consumer I think folks should be careful here. Why? We end up buying things twice or mixing and matching components with different vendors and none of them can figure out why our vehicle pulls to the left now.. or why it vibrates @ 65 or whatever. I am learning about jeeps but I have had many cars and will also recommended not doing too much at once either bc then its really hard to track down the issue. Someone said here or somewhere else use one vendor and stick with it. I though that was good advice too!
Agreed. One change at a time if possible. I have one example that I think rings true. I had a new rear driveshaft to replace the OEM, and I needed to install adjustable rear control arms (upper and lower) to adjust the pinion angle and maintain wheelbase. I installed the arms first with the OEM driveshaft still in place. I ran them for a couple of weeks to confirm that no issues were caused. Only then did I add the driveshaft. Smaller changes make troubleshooting much easier.

I also agree that fewer vendors is really great when possible. It’s not completely feasible, but can be attempted. I have one vendor that is my springs, shocks, and control arms. One for all steering, and that’s pretty much it. Small exceptions exist like a specific rear track bar, but not many. It eliminates finger pointing with vendors.
 

djthumper

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I did things a little backward than most because of my experience and of others. I did most of my build with bumpers and rack before my lift. I saw my mileage going down and felt the change in the suspension from the added weight. I did a 2.5" lift from Skyjacker and got all of the same components as a MOPAR lift but at a lower cost and with progressive springs. My suspension immediately felt better and did much better with added weight and hauling a trailer. All of this is while I was on 33s, Now that I am up to 35s, I think my ride is even better. The largest negative impact is the mileage and a bit of a climb to get in. I started at about 28 MPG and now running about 21.5 MPG in my Eco Diesel.
 

RedChili

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Biggest annoyance so far is getting in and out. 3.5 inch lift plus 38's and no steps! Was thinking of rockslide engineering steps but haven't pulled the trigger. I don't really like the look of other steps or options out there so I'll continue to struggle. Also have to remember that I'm not going to drive on the highways as fast as stock. Feels better at slightly slower speeds, or at least I'm more comfortable driving it at slower speeds versus stock. Oh, and I made the mistake of buying wheels and tires before deciding on a lift and so I've got a shed with 5 wheels and 35" tires with 2500 miles taking up space. Not necessarily a dig on the lift, but rather poor planning on my part. Oh, and with larger tires (37-38) I've gotta find a place to put the spare as it no longer fits under the truck.
 
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21_GLADIATOR

21_GLADIATOR

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You truck looks REALLY good tho man. I must admit. And yes, I am a no - step guy but may cave if I get the lift..

Also looks like the eco-d is real sensitive to weight of tires or cargo. Good to know.

edit - did anyone notice an INCREASE in mpg by adding a bed cover? My bed cover is really good and was only $200! Ive only had it on for like 2 days. Might off-set heavier tires a bit or leveling!
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