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Can't decide on 2" or 3" Lifts

WILDHOBO

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You could also do fixed but longer LCA and Adjustable uppers. I believe for 2.5" to 3.5", 24.5" control arms should be just about right, at least that is what the instructions in my Clayton kit say..
I thought the same. My fixed arms in the rear stayed for 4 months. The fronts lasted a year. :)
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Good point but the kit comes with the brackets so figured I'd go with that for a bit to soften the initial blow to the budget while I ultimately figure out wants vs needs.
 

HappyGladiator

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With a 2 inch lift do I need to correct the rear pinion angle? The lift did make it more.
 

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Still researching...Do I need adjustable control arms for a 3"? I keep reading conflicting info. Some say yes others say no or only lower control arms etc...
So here's my $.02. Whatever you end up doing, with as many questions you have and are already 2nd guessing options...STICK with 1 kit as designed. Don't second guess and begin switching out parts. Why? when you experience something you have a question about it will be MUCH more difficult to troubleshoot. When you change something in a system, you may be augmenting the original design and even if you call the manufacturer of the majority of the system it's unfair to expect them to fix it over the phone.

If you're attempting to get the "Cheapest" way into a lift, I'd say look at several of the manufacturers understand that the kit may be missing certain components. From what I've seen on this and other forums, there are a big 3. Clayton Offroad, Tera-flex and Metal Cloak. NO this isn't an all-encompassing list. JKS has made jeep stuff for years, but I often see folks swapping out their parts after a period of time. Rusty's off Road, I know makes quality stuff, but I haven't seen maying writeups or experiences over the last 6 years for the JL/JT platform. From what I've seen, BDS has a larger footprint in full sized PU's, obviously this doesn't mean they don't make something for the JT. Unless I'm mistaking, Rusty's Offroad and Clayton Offroad are the only 2 that spent the time on the front end or at least earlier on specifically designing something for the vehicles with the Diesel engine...instead of just saying...at a 1" coil spring spacer. To me this is a band aid without any adhesive. It may account a static height, but it definitely does not account for an additional 400#'s of weight due to the heavier engine and Transmission. These are things important to me so this is where my interest is focused.

If you're going to look for an inexpensive option up front for example, I would look at the Clayton Offroad "Ride Right+" kits, which come in 2.5 and 3.5. Both of which, from what's been delineated from the manufacturer, typically runs .5 above posted heights to account for typical addons. This kit comes with front and rear adjustable track bars, springs, front upper control arms and adjustable track bar end links. You'll have to select shocks, which come separately, but you can speak with the Clayton to determine, which shocks from shock manufacturers fit a specific kit.

If you decide at a later date, Clayton has different types of adjustable control arms depending on your specific requirements or needs. You can build up their base kit with minimal replacement of other items = wasting money.

And for what it's worth, I've been a member hear since 2017 and I can honestly say, with no close 2nd place, Clayton has the best customer service here...period. No, I haven't purchased my kit yet...due to life, but I know where I'll be going when I can when able. No, I'm not sponsored. In fact, there are bits and pieces of other kits I may substitute into my set up, but this isn't my first rodeo either.

Again, there's a lot above for my $.02, but I constantly see newer folks getting what appears to be stressed out over their selection especially when it appears they have no or little experience with lifting jeeps. Rule 1, select a system and stick with it. The manufacturer of a particular system knows their system best. Don't believe or trust me, search @Clayton Off Road and drop them a note, or better yet give them a call. Others have done just this and have been surprised/shocked at their investment in keeping us happy. Very knowledgeable and focused on ensuring we're happy after the purchase.
 
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WILDHOBO

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Dougstdig

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Carrier bearing spacer. 10 minute install.
No. The drive shafts use CV joints. Different than U-joints. It seems that 3.5 inches is the limit on the front. Any higher, the transfer case end of the front bottoms out the joint...from what I've seen here on the forum.

The I'd go with the lift manufacturers recommendation on the carrier bearing. The 2" Mopar lift doesn't come with one and the spacer would be an inexpensive part.
 

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No. The drive shafts use CV joints. Different than U-joints. It seems that 3.5 inches is the limit on the front. Any higher, the transfer case end of the front bottoms out the joint...from what I've seen here on the forum.

The I'd go with the lift manufacturers recommendation on the carrier bearing. The 2" Mopar lift doesn't come with one and the spacer would be an inexpensive part.
From personal experience, they work perfectly, and lift manufacturers more reputable than mopar recommend them frequently. Dana, who makes the axles and driveshafts, recommends them for any lift 2” and above.
 

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Dont forget possibly adding the teraflex rear geocorrection brackets. I plan on getting those on mine to compliment the 2.5" of advertised lift from AEV when fully loaded - others have installed them and they seem to compliment the carrier bearing nicely. Necessary? eh..no probably not, but they're relatively cheap compared to a full kit from Clayton. And they only help angles. Haven't seen any negative reports on them yet so why not.
 

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dougstdig Makes a good point with Clayton's Ride Right kit. You get what you need except shocks and you can add to it later.
I essentially bought Clayton's ride right kit, except for the sway bar end links. I just bought other sway bar end links but the exact length that Clayton said to set their adjustable ones to. I only did that because I didn't want adjustable ones, but the net effect is the same because I put them to Clayton's recommend length. It was just my personal preference...
But the ride right kit is a good base start, and Clayton's customer service is VERY good!
 

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I could correct the rear pinion angle with rear lower Adj CA's. That would raise the pinion a little for a better angle on rocks.
 

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So I'm going to stick with the JKS 3.5" lift kit. This is s daily driver and most of the time will be spent on pavement with some offroad weekends for good measure. Now for shock options. JKS offers an in-house entry level twin tube shock or Fox 2.0 Performance series or higher. The question is get the Fox 2.0's or should I go Bilstein 5100's purchased separately. Leaning toward Bilstein but want to hear some Fox 2.0 experiences.

Bilstein 5100
  • 5100's get a lot of praise here on this forum for it's digressive feel
  • it's a steel-bodied mono-tube
  • keeps some of the truck suspension and is more on-road oriented
  • Not rebuildable but can make it to 100k miles
  • $350-$400 cheaper than the Fox
Fox 2.0 Performance Series
  • More offroad focused
  • Some folks indicate may be softer on pavement more body roll and brake dive.
  • Rebuildable which is a pro - the con to this is 50k mile recommended rebuild mileage on road only and 10k inspection cycle with potential early rebuild if you offroad a lot.
  • rebuild can cost around $100-125 almost as much as purchasing new shocks
  • They have a little more swagger :)
 
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dayusmc

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I prefer rebuildable shocks. If they are a little soft you can just replace the oil with a hair thicker oil. Example, drive them for 200 miles, if they are soft, just have the oil replaced with a hair thicker oil. Any shop with a vacuum bleeder can drian the oil, fill the shocks with thicker oil and recharge the Nitrogen relatively fast...
Just changing the oil whem the shocks are newer is kot a big deal compared to having them rebuilt after a few thousand miles. You don't have to completely take the shocks apart and change seals for that.
So the short of the Long is Fox..
 

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So I'm going to stick with the JKS 3.5" lift kit. This is s daily driver and most of the time will be spent on pavement with some offroad weekends for good measure. Now for shock options. JKS offers an in-house entry level twin tube shock or Fox 2.0 Performance series or higher. The question is get the Fox 2.0's or should I go Bilstein 5100's purchased separately. Leaning toward Bilstein but want to hear some Fox 2.0 experiences.

Bilstein 5100
  • 5100's get a lot of praise here on this forum for it's digressive feel
  • it's a steel-bodied mono-tube
  • keeps some of the truck suspension and is more on-road oriented
  • Not rebuildable but can make it to 100k miles
  • $350-$400 cheaper than the Fox
Fox 2.0 Performance Series
  • More offroad focused
  • Some folks indicate may be softer on pavement more body roll and brake dive.
  • Rebuildable which is a pro - the con to this is 50k mile recommended rebuild mileage on road only and 10k inspection cycle with potential early rebuild if you offroad a lot.
  • rebuild can cost around $100-125 almost as much as purchasing new shocks
  • They have a little more swagger :)

I think, maybe I'm wrong, but I think the issue with the fox 2.0's are with the ones that specifically come with the MOPAR lift. I say this because I have adjustable 2.0's with reservoirs on my TJ with a rock jock 4" lift. I have had them on for...well since 2015 - and they still work fine. They need rebuilding now for sure and are getting kinda stiff but they have never leaked or blown out like I see with the MOPAR 2.0's. The ones on my TJ are great! I think 8 years of neglected and pretty hard use without failure is pretty darn good, and I think about 40K miles? maybe a little less.

I am getting the AEV with 5100's on my JT next week so if you can wait a little longer I can report back how they compare compared to the 2.0's on my TJ - although that's not really a great comparison.
 

Camaroboi13

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The main thing here is don’t let anyone tell you how to build your rig. I have ReadyLIFT, Clayton, Rusty’s Off Road, Teraflex, and Falcon under the body of my Gladiator. I purchased everything as I researched them and built it myself. I’m lifted 4.5” and all in I’m under $2300 for everything, and did the lift and alignment myself.

The 5100s will inevitably ride stiffer than most shocks out there, but you will get used to them. JKS seems to have some good reviews, and I think you’ll be fine with their parts. Too many negatives out there for me to consider recommending the Fox shocks.
 
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I think, maybe I'm wrong, but I think the issue with the fox 2.0's are with the ones that specifically come with the MOPAR lift. I say this because I have adjustable 2.0's with reservoirs on my TJ with a rock jock 4" lift. I have had them on for...well since 2015 - and they still work fine. They need rebuilding now for sure and are getting kinda stiff but they have never leaked or blown out like I see with the MOPAR 2.0's. The ones on my TJ are great! I think 8 years of neglected and pretty hard use without failure is pretty darn good, and I think about 40K miles? maybe a little less.

I am getting the AEV with 5100's on my JT next week so if you can wait a little longer I can report back how they compare compared to the 2.0's on my TJ - although that's not really a great comparison.
@chorky Interested to hear your thoughts on the Bilsteins.

The main thing here is don’t let anyone tell you how to build your rig. I have ReadyLIFT, Clayton, Rusty’s Off Road, Teraflex, and Falcon under the body of my Gladiator. I purchased everything as I researched them and built it myself. I’m lifted 4.5” and all in I’m under $2300 for everything, and did the lift and alignment myself.

The 5100s will inevitably ride stiffer than most shocks out there, but you will get used to them. JKS seems to have some good reviews, and I think you’ll be fine with their parts. Too many negatives out there for me to consider recommending the Fox shocks.
@Camaroboi13 Thanks for the reply...I'm interested in the details of your lift and what were the deciding factors for the parts you chose.
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