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Check Engine Light at 2992 miles

Maximus Gladius

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…and to think all I had to do when I got my JTR was to unplug my MIL light and I’d have no issues. I wish someone would have told me, would have saved me A LOT of grief.
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ilovebikes99

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You can go to any auto zone and get it reset for free. Just ask for the free diagnostic.
 

Labswine

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On my Ram the check engine light would come on when my gas cap wasn't seated as well. Usually after a cold snap. Or does the gladiator show the gas cap?
I totally agree about the fuel cap not being tight.

Any time I've ever had a nefarious check engine light come on and all else is running hot, straight, and normal, it's been a loose fuel cap. Tighten it and the light will eventually go out by itself in a few days.
 

alpineovernappa

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Explain this, I've had a number of jeeps over the years, XJ, TJ, JK, JT, 3 Grand Cherokees and Commander and I only had a check engine light come on in the JK that I fixed myself for $15 by replacing the purge valve. 46,000 miles on the JT and the build quality and engine quality seem pretty lined up with I paid for it compared to other comparables I could of bought instead.
I'll precurse this by saying I've had 3 TJs, an LJ, a JKUR and a JTD. I love wranglers and have had one of the above as a daily for nearly 20 years- still do. Wranglers were well worth the money at 25,30, even $40k these days. I have a Sport S and I'm happy with what it is for what I paid. If I had a loaded JT getting up towards $70k, I would be underwhelmed with how much similarity crosses over between the sport- same cheap fit and finish (sit in a comparable XLT ford and you'll be amazed by how much better they're put together with the same plastics), same reliability issues and most of them boil down to build quality, not design ( I think they're excellently designed, just poorly implemented). Things like bad frame welds, sand left in blocks from casting, fuses not seated, rattling dashes, leaking axle shafts etc are just not acceptable at the higher tiers. Same with using the CP4 HPFP on the newly redesigned gen 3 ED. The industry knew of the ULSD issue with CP4 but stellantis still chose to put it in a vehicle meant to take you off the beaten path, and in some cases, leave you out there. My personal opinion as to why the wrangler constantly gets rated so poorly is new Jeep ownership. Those of us who came from YJs TJs XJs and even JKs (and all those before the "wrangler" years) Know how far they've come, but the price tag just isn't there for me. I remember when the LJ was considered high dollar at $32k! Not bashing the JL/JTs here. I replaced my JKUR with one for good reason, but I still drive my LJ most days because i'd rather have a utilitarian jeep that I can work on myself rather than a high tech rig that's crippled by cheaply made sensors and a lightning fast assembly time.
 

Klutch

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My money is also on the gas cap being loose.

I've owned two XJs with the 4.0. I bought the first XJ, a 1997 model, new. I recall the Check Engine Light coming only a few times; once was when the oil pressure sensor went out.

My second XJ was a 2000 model. Oh, good golly, if the Check Engine Light wasn't on, it wasn't running:

- The entire gauge cluster would randomly disconnect. The odometer would stop displaying numbers and display some cryptic error. Eventually, the gauge cluster would reconnect, typically after I pounded on it, and the Check Engine Light would be on. (I tried every recommended fix on the Internet and nothing worked.)

- Oil pressure sensor went out throwing a CEL.

- Temp sensor went out throwing a CEL.

- Multiple O2 sensors went out throwing a CEL.

- During a hot start, two of the fuel injectors wouldn't work throwing a CEL. After running rough for a few minutes, the engine compartment would cool down and allow all the fuel injectors to work. (Jeep issued a TSB for installing insulation on the problem injectors, but the problem persisted.)

- Cylinder head cracked causing it to get hot and, you guessed it, throw a CEL. This was a notorious problem for the 2000 model 4.0.

I would not recommend ever buying a 2000 XJ; or any 2000 model Jeep with a 4.0.
 

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obrianmcc

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I'll precurse this by saying I've had 3 TJs, an LJ, a JKUR and a JTD. I love wranglers and have had one of the above as a daily for nearly 20 years- still do. Wranglers were well worth the money at 25,30, even $40k these days. I have a Sport S and I'm happy with what it is for what I paid. If I had a loaded JT getting up towards $70k, I would be underwhelmed with how much similarity crosses over between the sport- same cheap fit and finish (sit in a comparable XLT ford and you'll be amazed by how much better they're put together with the same plastics), same reliability issues and most of them boil down to build quality, not design ( I think they're excellently designed, just poorly implemented). Things like bad frame welds, sand left in blocks from casting, fuses not seated, rattling dashes, leaking axle shafts etc are just not acceptable at the higher tiers. Same with using the CP4 HPFP on the newly redesigned gen 3 ED. The industry knew of the ULSD issue with CP4 but stellantis still chose to put it in a vehicle meant to take you off the beaten path, and in some cases, leave you out there. My personal opinion as to why the wrangler constantly gets rated so poorly is new Jeep ownership. Those of us who came from YJs TJs XJs and even JKs (and all those before the "wrangler" years) Know how far they've come, but the price tag just isn't there for me. I remember when the LJ was considered high dollar at $32k! Not bashing the JL/JTs here. I replaced my JKUR with one for good reason, but I still drive my LJ most days because i'd rather have a utilitarian jeep that I can work on myself rather than a high tech rig that's crippled by cheaply made sensors and a lightning fast assembly time.
The XLT Fords must not all be the same ... I was in a XLT for a month while the JT was at the Auto body ... alot of things I did like about the Ford, but the clunky 10 spd transmission and the interior quality were not on that list. Fords are renown for cheap plastic interiors ....
 

alpineovernappa

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The XLT Fords must not all be the same ... I was in a XLT for a month while the JT was at the Auto body ... alot of things I did like about the Ford, but the clunky 10 spd transmission and the interior quality were not on that list. Fords are renown for cheap plastic interiors ....
I used to think the same, but after 65k mostly rough-road miles in my 2016 xlt f150 with a camper, the only complaint I had was that the steering wheel "leather" began to wear through. I would trade that interior for the Jeep's any day. No squeaks, no rattles, no issues whatsoever. I think it helps that, like Jeep, Ford uses 80% of their interior on every trim level. I've never been in a new bronco tho, so I can't really compare apples to apples here. My JT dash was missing the screws that hold the front lower speakers in, from the factory and my ESS button is already illegibly worn after 15,000 miles (who thought ESS on a diesel was a good idea anyhow?!)
 

NachoRuby

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I used to think the same, but after 65k mostly rough-road miles in my 2016 xlt f150 with a camper, the only complaint I had was that the steering wheel "leather" began to wear through. I would trade that interior for the Jeep's any day. No squeaks, no rattles, no issues whatsoever. I think it helps that, like Jeep, Ford uses 80% of their interior on every trim level. I've never been in a new bronco tho, so I can't really compare apples to apples here. My JT dash was missing the screws that hold the front lower speakers in, from the factory and my ESS button is already illegibly worn after 15,000 miles (who thought ESS on a diesel was a good idea anyhow?!)
To be fair, they probably didn't expect anyone to push that button every time they got in. I'm at 11 months 18k miles. Aside from some very minor self induced scratches on the grab bar on the dash, my interior looks as good as new. And our 78k jk looks great inside. No signs of wear on the interior. Heck, even when I think about it, our TJ looked good on the inside at 20 years old and 200k miles. The TJ was rained in a lot of times, and the JT a couple, so that's saying something. My wife's JK is pretty much babied, top never comes off. But it's pristine on the inside.

Incidentally, no cels on any of the three body on frame Stellantis vehicles we've owned. Our 2013 Doodge Dart did throw many a CEL though, so Stellantis/FCA isn't completely innocent.
 

NachoRuby

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I remember when the LJ was considered high dollar at $32k!
Don't forget inflation over the last 18 years or so. $32,000 2004 dollars is equal to $47,626.98 2022 dollars. That gets you a very nice JLR now

Our TJ (no ac, 2 door of course, soft top, manual) was bought very used by us, but original msrp was 17,140, which is $30,024.15 in 2022 dollars. A brand new manual no ac 2 door wrangler is $29,995. The price is remarkably consistent over the years, accounting for inflation.
 
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Inigo Montoya for the win! Used friends ob2 and got code. Used crappy blue reader and confirmed, issue reading was ignition was not on on RUN.

The code IS........ P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire.
Any gas cap betting folks need to pay up!

Jeep Gladiator Check Engine Light at 2992 miles 20220307_165717
 

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Klutch

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But isn't that the code the computer throws when the gas cap isn't tight? I'm not aware of a code which specifically says, "Loose Gas Cap".
 

Dqban

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My experience is the check engine light almost always has something to do with either too much/little air getting to the engine or too much/little fuel getting to the engine....Or the sensor thinking so. Gas cap is a possibility. Make sure oil filter and plugs are secure if youve change oil recently. Loose/dirty spark plugs. Found a birds nest in my buddies motorcycle filter once (after only a week of not riding.).....there was no bird code when his check engine came on.

I've had my Jeep fairly apart installing various things....I cant say the build quality is worse than any other modern vehicle ive worked on. It certainly is a better build quality than my last BMW..
 

DobaMark

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You can go to any auto zone and get it reset for free. Just ask for the free diagnostic.
More places won't (or the toll can't) clear the codes now. They can read them but you're still left with the light on until it is fixed or clears itself.
 

Klutch

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More places won't (or the toll can't) clear the codes now. They can read them but you're still left with the light on until it is fixed or clears itself.
That was the policy for a short while after some kind of litigation. The last few times I did it, I simply exchanged my driver's license for the scanner, plugged it in and scanned myself. I was free to reset anything I wanted.

Although, I visit my local O'Reilly so often the staff knows me well. Typically, they don't even ask for my license. ?
 

Living the dream

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There was a service bulletin about this I believe.
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