Considering the exhaust loop...

[Flyin6]

I think a rock got into my exhaust pipe a bit during our Colorado, San Juan mountain excursion. It is undamaged most likely because I drive pretty conservatively. Nevertheless, that big doughnut is low fruit for that loving piece of granite waiting out there to bugger the pipe all up.

We know Jeep wanted to give us equal flow theoretically from pipes of equal distance. I would like to see the flow numbers proving a given length of pipe with some significant bends while flowing near supersonic hot gases doesn't have to contend with significant back pressure.

This begs the argument: Replace it with a short length of pipe or leave it alone?

So leaving it alone may work, I mean that's free, takes less work, and so forth.

The flip side of that thought is, "Well, you already hit the thing once already."

If I believed the same-length circular pipe created equal flow (And I don't) as the less curvy one from the opposite side, I may not be questioning all this.
But, know something about trans-sonic and supersonic airflow behavior, I find it hard to believe profile drag isn't killing a bunch of HP making those right-hand turns.

Therefore, it would make sense to delete the thing and add in something like the Magnaflow or Afe piece to gain more ground clearance and drop a little weight.

I am curious, has anyone deleted this circle of torque pipe and hated or liked doing so? Has anyone bolted on the full Y-pipe and felt all 14 ft/lbs of additional tire-ripping power?

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[bd100]

Skid Row Offroad has a skid plate for the exhaust loop, but:
May or may not have been strong enough to shield it from your rock hit.
May or may not work with any aftermarket skid plates you already have.

(and at the moment the website does not appear to be responding... https://skidrowoffroad.com/)

And having been towing up I70 out of Denver and needing all the torque I can get, I'm also interested in any answers to your question.

 

[smlobx]

I think a rock got into my exhaust pipe a bit during our Colorado, San Juan mountain excursion. It is undamaged most likely because I drive pretty conservatively. Nevertheless, that big doughnut is low fruit for that loving piece of granite waiting out there to bugger the pipe all up.

We know Jeep wanted to give us equal flow theoretically from pipes of equal distance. I would like to see the flow numbers proving a given length of pipe with some significant bends while flowing near supersonic hot gases doesn't have to contend with significant back pressure.

This begs the argument: Replace it with a short length of pipe or leave it alone?

So leaving it alone may work, I mean that's free, takes less work, and so forth.

The flip side of that thought is, "Well, you already hit the thing once already."

If I believed the same-length circular pipe created equal flow (And I don't) as the less curvy one from the opposite side, I may not be questioning all this.
But, know something about trans-sonic and supersonic airflow behavior, I find it hard to believe profile drag isn't killing a bunch of HP making those right-hand turns.

Therefore, it would make sense to delete the thing and add in something like the Magnaflow or Afe piece to gain more ground clearance and drop a little weight.

I am curious, has anyone deleted this circle of torque pipe and hated or liked doing so? Has anyone bolted on the full Y-pipe and felt all 14 ft/lbs of additional tire-ripping power?

Look At post #14 for a good explanation…

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-installed-the-exhaust-loop-eliminator.50786/

 

[Flyin6]

Danke.

I get the exhaust scavenging thing. Have spent some good monies on companies like "Kooks" tuning my Z06.

That was a good layman's explanation of what the reason for the loop is and lays the groundwork for believing there is a net loss in power and sound quality by removing the little circle of torque. It is not a big thing, and it is not dented so it could stay there.

After seeing the marks on the pipe on my Jeep, I remembered something I had read about something AFE was building. I started down that rabbit hole by trying to find AFE's "Header/cat pipe. I believe that did increase the oomph a little, so I was searching around to try and find a set or at least some info. I could not find the physical pipes, which leads me to believe the EPA has flexed its muscles and applied some pressure so that AFE no longer builds them. Of course that search led to reading about the round pipe eliminator setup.

And that led me to posting here to try and find some real-world experience...

 

[Flyin6]

I will report here if I actually find out anything.

What I do know from my own experience is that the little V6 can do the job. Mine fights me north of 70 mph and mileage suffers a lot. That must be the point where parasitic drag clearly crosses the power available line. When trying to cruise at 73 I was down by 1-2 mpg! It is quite amazing just how much difference there is. Oddly driving across Eastern CO and all of Kansas eastbound, I had a strong cross wind and even a quatering headwind! I was obviously on the backside of a strong low-pressure system. That buffeting stole a lot of efficiency and cost me mileage. Moreso, it robbed me of any fuel mileage number with a bit of a tailwind.

The moral from that story is I am on the hunt for 50 ft/lbs. I think there is that in a tune and possibly a set of cams. Give me 50 more and I should be able to cruise at 75 and that will make this jeep a continent crosser by my reckoning. The key to that is unlocking the computer. But no one is doing anything to unlock these new spec computers. I believe it is a waiting game.

It is now the winter and other than an early spring possible run on the KAT, I have a trip up into the Tetons in July as this year's objective, crossing westbound from the Chicago combat zone and through the Minnesota. I would like to have mo-power for that trip, but if not, well, I guess I'll sit and wait it out like the rest of us.

 

[jac04]

Skid Row Offroad has a skid plate for the exhaust loop, but:
May or may not have been strong enough to shield it from your rock hit.
May or may not work with any aftermarket skid plates you already have.

I run a Skid Row exhaust loop skid on my JK. Agreed, it offers protection, but can be bent fairly easily in its stock form.

The best thing to do is tie it into whatever engine/trans skid you are running, which is what I ended up doing, like so:

 

[Flyin6]

Man, that thing ^^^^^^^^^^ has taken some abuse! Frankly, I am a bit surprised I beat mine up a little as conservatively as I drive it, but I concur, that is the correct way to protect that area.

 

[cranbiz]

I run a Skid Row exhaust loop skid on my JK. Agreed, it offers protection, but can be bent fairly easily in its stock form.

The best thing to do is tie it into whatever engine/trans skid you are running, which is what I ended up doing, like so:

Looks like the underside of my JK. ?

 

[Flyin6]

I am not so brave and daring, apparently. I try and avoid any undercarriage contact. Not about conquering difficult terrain, but more about just getting there. That and I am constantly spot-painting every nick I get. Now, speaking about this AEV Gladiator, man, I spent $75K on it and have dumped thousands more into it. I actually wax it and keep it cleaned and garaged. Sadly, I can confess to not so much TLC on my older JK or CJ, nor on my off-road targeted Suburban. My 2002 2500 Burb which I have owned since 2015 has only been waxed twice and only washed at the truck stop. Kudos to Chevy, though...The paint is still as radiant as ever.

 

[cranbiz]

Striking the undercarriage is unavoidable where I wheel, which is typically rock.

 

[Jaxmax]

Beings of the mindset that as much as I use my Mojave for towing, surf fishing and other things ,lifts and tires larger then perhaps 34” are out, I have been protecting things underneath, cast diff covers, front and rear control arm skids, FAD skid, rear shock skids, and yes I bought the Skidrow skid for exhaust loop, could not bring myself to install , could not wrap my head around step one Automatic transmissions only,
“ Remove the factory cross member that serves to protect the transmission pan”…..uh WHAT! So to protect the low hanging exhaust loop that I was trying to protect let’s abandon any protection for something minor like the transmission. Will still install it when I get around to the new Venture full belly skid, which moves that cross member, and I agree a brace at the corner should be figured out. Skid is pretty hefty and well made. I am just choking on prices of stuff like skids now base version is $2700, and with the UMHV plastic about $3500, and shipping I heard is like $300. So the exhaust skid sits patiently in the garage cabinet waiting for me to say hey I ain’t no mall crawling poser, I am a real Jeeper, I just have to get my balls out of my wife’s purse and just do it and tell her it was like $450!……Jack

 

[Jaxmax]

Yes, I now always look through instructions first even for what seems simple like a skid!

 

[fourfa]

new Venture full belly skid ... I am just choking on prices of stuff like skids now base version is $2700, and with the UMHV plastic about $3500, and shipping I heard is like $300

I just recently went through all those stages of grief as you describe. The 20% BF discount going right now is the best you're going to get (been tracking this for years). Shipping Colorado-California was $316.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Skid Row Offroad has a skid plate for the exhaust loop, but:
May or may not have been strong enough to shield it from your rock hit.
May or may not work with any aftermarket skid plates you already have.

(and at the moment the website does not appear to be responding... https://skidrowoffroad.com/)

And having been towing up I70 out of Denver and needing all the torque I can get, I'm also interested in any answers to your question.

Me too. I win zero races up i70 to the tunnel. Zero. And I have lots of dents in my exhaust in that area, and all the other ones.

 

[bd100]

The best thing to do is tie it into whatever engine/trans skid you are running

I will have to cut it short and then drill into the existing skid plate cross member to attach with some brackets. Too bad they don't make versions which bolt onto some of the popular skid plates.

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